what about when the pitch angle of the roof is less than 45degrees and its the outside wall, your top plate will have a very hard time getting the drill bit to drill straight downwards it would probably be easier upwards, no?
Thanks
Jun 13th, 2016 1:31 pm
what about when the pitch angle of the roof is less than 45degrees and its the outside wall, your top plate will have a very hard time getting the drill bit to drill straight downwards it would probably be easier upwards, no?
Jun 13th, 2016 1:32 pm
Rule 12-520 Fished Cable Installation
Jun 13th, 2016 2:00 pm
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Jun 13th, 2016 3:55 pm
yeah i can take a look at it, it's good to have a set of drawings for references, i'm not going to stamp it for permit though.paintballdude05 wrote: ↑I had no existing plans for the house, and neither does the city, so I had to create them from scratch. With this whole duplex reno I have going on, I'll need to plans to submit to the city when I go for permits. I even went as far as mapping out what outlets, switches and lights are on what circuit which helped a lot during the panel swap. I was never thought how to draw electrical on a house plan so what I ended up with is probably out of the norm. I'll spend some time cleaning it up this week and I'll flip it over to you if you don't mind taking a look at it.
Jun 13th, 2016 4:26 pm
Jun 13th, 2016 5:46 pm
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Jun 14th, 2016 8:04 am
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Jun 15th, 2016 5:50 pm
How about landscaping? I need to figure out what plants to plant in my planters so my backyard is planted with plenty of plants....
Jun 15th, 2016 6:16 pm
Jun 15th, 2016 9:04 pm
Jun 16th, 2016 10:29 am
The price doesn't seem unreasonable. But before they show up... Have you checked the circuit breakers? You can also try flipping the breakers off, and then back on. Sometimes they'll look like they're on, but they're not actually.kingtosh82 wrote: ↑The outlets in one of the rooms of my basement stopped working. The only reason I can think something went wrong is because I had a fridge plugged in and maybe it overloaded the circuit or something (sorry for my lack of electrical vocabulary or knowledge...haha). I have an electrician coming to look at the issue on June 23rd. They charge a rate of $160 per hour, and then $60 per hour after that. I'm hoping that they can diagnose and fix the issue to prevent it from happening again.
1) Is that a fair price for an electrician?
1b) If that is not a fair price, can anyone recommend a good electrician at a better price?
2) What do you think the best and worst situation (in terms of cost) would be?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jun 16th, 2016 10:35 am
That price is fair enough, but you didn't indicate how many hours the $160 covered. If it's only the first hour, then that's still OK - they just charge a $100 truck/rollout fee and that's pretty normal.kingtosh82 wrote: ↑The outlets in one of the rooms of my basement stopped working. The only reason I can think something went wrong is because I had a fridge plugged in and maybe it overloaded the circuit or something (sorry for my lack of electrical vocabulary or knowledge...haha). I have an electrician coming to look at the issue on June 23rd. They charge a rate of $160 per hour, and then $60 per hour after that. I'm hoping that they can diagnose and fix the issue to prevent it from happening again.
1) Is that a fair price for an electrician?
1b) If that is not a fair price, can anyone recommend a good electrician at a better price?
2) What do you think the best and worst situation (in terms of cost) would be?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Jun 16th, 2016 10:38 am
Thanks for the reply.CNeufeld wrote: ↑The price doesn't seem unreasonable. But before they show up... Have you checked the circuit breakers? You can also try flipping the breakers off, and then back on. Sometimes they'll look like they're on, but they're not actually.
Was your fridge plugged into the same circuit as these outlets? Is the fridge still working?
C
Jun 16th, 2016 10:41 am
You can screw the box from inside, that's fine.cactus5 wrote: ↑Hi Folks,
I'm getting ready to rewire 8 aluminum circuits in my house (Ontario) which involves replacing quite a few metal boxes and I'd like to minimize the damage to drywall around switches and outlets during this process. I know single gang rework boxes are available that clamp directly to the drywall, but I'm not too keen on this approach especially for outlets where someone could yank on a cable. Also, I haven't been able to find any 2-gane or 3-gang rework boxes (there are some plastic ones in the US, but I haven't found any certified for Canada).
With that in mind, here are my questions:
1) I know 12-3010(5) says that nails or screws can "project into or pass through" a box if they are not more than 6.4mm from the "back or ends" of the box and will not interfere with conductors/connectors.
[INDENT]a) Knowing that all the boxes that I'm replacing will already be right beside a wood stud, is it acceptable to screw the new boxes to the stud from INSIDE the box from an angle (does that satisfy "project/pass through" above as the screw head will be inside the box and slightly angled)?[/INDENT]
[INDENT]b) In 12-3010(5) above, what does "ends of the box" mean? Is it referring to the corners between the side walls of the box? Some boxes have pre-drilled holes on the side walls, Can I assume these holes are always spaced to satisfy this rule?[/INDENT]
[INDENT]c) If I cannot screw from inside the box, is using construction adhesive to glue the box to the studs an option?[/INDENT]
[INDENT]d) If all else fails, I can use rework boxes for single gang boxes, but are there any other options for replacing multi-gang boxes that don't involve cutting holes in drywall?[/INDENT]
2) My current panel is old with no AFI breakers available (all 8 new circuits will need AFIs). Replacing the panel is problematic for a number of reasons so I plan to install a subpanel. Rule 8-108(2) requires two empty spots in a service panel. Does this apply to the new subpanel as well? That is, for 8 AFI circuits, will I need a panel with at least 10 spaces?
3) The largest breaker (compatible with my old panel) that I've been able to find for the sub panel feeder is 40amps. Will that be sufficient for 8 circuits (all general lighting and outlets - load calculation based on floor area gives ~2,000sqft/6,000watts which is closer to 50amps)?
4) I need 3 circuits in the upper level and I'm planning to run three cables from the basement to the attic along the ventilation stack and fish down into the rooms from there. Am I understanding table 5C correctly that I can simply run 3 14/2 cables for this, knowing that the cables will be touching/bundled the whole way up into the attic? (5C says 4-6 conductors must be de-rated to 80%, but each circuit is already limited to 12amps because of 8-304)?
Thanks in advance!
Jun 16th, 2016 10:44 am
15A is enough for pretty much any kitchen appliance, except for large stoves/ovens obviously. I don't think that's an issue unless the breaker is restricting current more than it should be, but then in that case it would trip....so there's a problem somewhere else. A loose connection somewhere most likely if the power goes on and off intermittently.kingtosh82 wrote: ↑Thanks for the reply.
I haven't tried to flip the switch on/off.... I just saw that it was on, so I figured it was broken. Going to try that tonight.
My worry is that the switch isn't broken, and then when I plug the fridge back in that at some random time the circuit goes off again. I don't use that room in the basement that often so I don't want to check on a daily basis if the fridge has electricity or not.
How can I test to see if an outlet or circuit is supplying enough watts/amps sufficient enough to power my appliance?
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