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[2018 UPDATE] Ask me anything about home electrical requirements, electrical code, wiring, devices

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  • Dec 9th, 2017 1:23 pm
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Deal Addict
Sep 11, 2006
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Toronto
charlesd79 wrote:
Dec 2nd, 2017 9:00 pm
That's a different topic.
How is it a different topic when the poster is asking to add an extension to someone elses work?
Deal Addict
Mar 7, 2011
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Vancouver
DIrty-D wrote:
Dec 3rd, 2017 10:24 am
How is it a different topic when the poster is asking to add an extension to someone elses work?
Maybe he's handy enough to do the wiring himself and only needs to pay the electrician to check on it instead of paying him to do the whole work (especially if he charges by the hour). That's what lots of them do anyway when training apprentices.
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Oct 26, 2003
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medethic wrote:
Nov 30th, 2017 12:00 pm
I recently had an upgrade appointment with the builder. I was told by the decor consultant that I don't need to pay for 200 amp panel upgrade as recently there was a change to the code and builder will be required to put in 200 amp panel. Could anyone confirm if this is true? House will be ~3915 sqft and closing in in late 2018 in Ontario.

Thanks
if you have the builder confirm in writing that 200a service is included then it is fine

2018 code is coming up but you get 6 months switch over period for new permits.
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Jan 8, 2013
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OAKVILLE
Doing my own install of a Hot tub electrical (background electrical engineer, so at least I know how not to hurt myself or burn the house). I am using a TECK 90 #6/3 cable. However all the ones I have found (at nedco and westburne) are color coded red/black/blue. I need the red/black/white as I am running a neutral. Does anyone know who carries red/black/white teck 90 #6/3. Seems all the teck 90 are for 3 phase connects!

Alternately, does anyone have info if ESA will be ok using blue as neutral.
Deal Addict
Sep 11, 2006
1026 posts
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Toronto
hkazmi wrote:
Dec 4th, 2017 12:18 pm
Doing my own install of a Hot tub electrical (background electrical engineer, so at least I know how not to hurt myself or burn the house). I am using a TECK 90 #6/3 cable. However all the ones I have found (at nedco and westburne) are color coded red/black/blue. I need the red/black/white as I am running a neutral. Does anyone know who carries red/black/white teck 90 #6/3. Seems all the teck 90 are for 3 phase connects!

Alternately, does anyone have info if ESA will be ok using blue as neutral.
As an electrical engineer, why don't you know the answer to this?
Newbie
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Jan 8, 2013
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OAKVILLE
If you know every country has its own codes, you would know color codes have nothing to do with electrical engineering. Engineering is about technicalities, why I said I won't burn the house.
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Oct 19, 2008
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Whitby
hkazmi wrote:
Dec 4th, 2017 12:18 pm
Doing my own install of a Hot tub electrical (background electrical engineer, so at least I know how not to hurt myself or burn the house). I am using a TECK 90 #6/3 cable. However all the ones I have found (at nedco and westburne) are color coded red/black/blue. I need the red/black/white as I am running a neutral. Does anyone know who carries red/black/white teck 90 #6/3. Seems all the teck 90 are for 3 phase connects!

Alternately, does anyone have info if ESA will be ok using blue as neutral.
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Jul 4, 2004
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Toronto
hkazmi wrote:
Dec 4th, 2017 12:18 pm
Doing my own install of a Hot tub electrical (background electrical engineer, so at least I know how not to hurt myself or burn the house). I am using a TECK 90 #6/3 cable. However all the ones I have found (at nedco and westburne) are color coded red/black/blue. I need the red/black/white as I am running a neutral. Does anyone know who carries red/black/white teck 90 #6/3. Seems all the teck 90 are for 3 phase connects!

Alternately, does anyone have info if ESA will be ok using blue as neutral.
You posted this as a separate thread. It need not be answered twice.
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Jan 2, 2012
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JimBo_KW wrote:
Dec 6th, 2017 2:02 pm
House built 1976 40% aluminum 60% copper. Insurance asks for ESA certificate....house inspected 2 days ago. The guy says before he leaves I need to install GFCI's on front porch and downstairs bathroom. I do this then request written copy of defects and it says GCFI's need installing on front porch and kitchen!!!!! no mention of the kitchen. Anyways I have read most of the posts here and this is what I understand to be my options. Leave the 3 kitchen outlets as they are and install 3 GFCI 30 amp double pole breakers on the main panel or install 6 20 amp GCFI's in the kitchen and run new wire to the panel and add 20 amp breakers. The first option seems the easiest as the 2nd would damage walls back splash etc. Let me know if I got this right.

Thanks
Who did the inspection? Someone from ESA?
I think you are making this way too complicated. Install 15A GFCIs where specified, and call ESA back for the final inspection. You may want to look at this, as it's possible that you have split 15A receptacles on your counter ESA PDF
Jr. Member
Oct 5, 2014
108 posts
19 upvotes
Madden, AB
we have three duplex receptacles on the kithchen counter...One of them have the Keurig coffee machine plugged into it...Everything works fine for the last 2 and a half years until recently (about 2 wks ago)... We noticed that after the Keurig is plugged in for a while (a while could be a day or 2 hours, it is really random pattern) the power to the outlet will be lost...When we noticed this, we unplug the Keurig and plug in a kettle, same thing...No power to the outlet...sometimes, after 1hour or so, the outlet seems to get the power back and when we plug the Keurig back in, it will power on and then after certain time, the same thing happen again...
First, we thought it is a bad outlet, so we replaced it today...and everything seems fine at first...but after about 1 hour or so, there is no power to the Keurig again...We tested with outlet tester this time when the power goes off to the outlet, it shows 'Open neutral'...after 30 mins, we tested it again...now this time, it shows 'correct wiring'...We would be having an electrictian to take a look at this Friday, but given this is intermittent, I am not sure if the electrctian would be able to find anything...

so, what we know so far:
1. it is not the receptacles since we have replaced with a new one...same thing..
2. it is probably not the Keurig either...We have moved the Keurig to another outlet, it looks working fine...
3. when all this happen, nothing else was plugged into the kitchen outlets and no breaker was tricked...So I don't think this is an overloading issue?
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Oct 19, 2008
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irislf wrote:
Dec 6th, 2017 11:04 pm
we have three duplex receptacles on the kithchen counter

1. it is not the receptacles since we have replaced with a new one...same thing..
Its probably the receptacle upstream of the outlet giving you trouble, have a look at the connections on that receptacle.
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Dec 10, 2008
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St. John's
My bathroom fan came with its own switch, one of these humidity sensing timer switches. The switch has a red, white and black.

The fan is currently wired to a standard off/on switch with just a white and black wire. Can I use the new switch that came with the fan?
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NEW 2018 CODE UPDATE

1. CEC 2018 to be released on Jan 2, with 262 revisions/clarifications from 2015.
2. 8-104 continuous current rating to be labeled on all electrical distribution equipment. Panels, switchboard, MCC, CDP, meter stacks, etc.
3. 26-242 transformers bigger than 50 KVA shall have minimum horizontal working space of 1m on the side of conductor termination. This applies to one side if the transformer have both the primary and secondary feeder connected to one side, or both side in the normal case.
4. Table 39, if used, shall have the calculated continuous current rating labelled on electrical distribution equipment. This is mostly used in residential.
5. Temperature rating applied to feeder sizes to Tables D8A-D11B, D17A-D17N, D12E (1) (2)
6. Section 4 light switch shall have identified (neutral) conductor in junction box. Previously for the dimmers that doesn’t require neutral, the bond is used as reference as code allows for minor leakage through bond, hence that’s how it gets power, but no longer.
7. Table 11 & 12, EV table D1 new conductor/feeder types. There seems to be at least 4 different types of charger cable.
8. Section 6-112(2) overhead service feeder point of attachment.
9. 6-212(3) utility service line side feeder not to touch or cross load side feeder.
10. 8-104(5)-(7), continuous operation 80% or 100%.
11. 8-106(1) 5% rule deleted.
12. 8-106(11)-(12) EV energy management systems (EVEMS) to apply reduced demand factor.
13. 8-110 determination of areas above/below ground, generalized.
14. Section 10 rewritten, table 16A & 16B consolidated into table 16.
15. Armored cable can now be used under slab.
16. Section 12 new technology cable PCS, NMDH90. Combined power and data in a single hybrid feeder.
17. 12-102(1)-(2) low temperature conductor, refer to appendix B notes.
18. 12-1302 deleted.
19. New rule regarding running of extra low voltage feeder on suspended ceiling (ACT).
20. 12-1250 to 12-1268 high density polyethylene (HDPE) conductor in conduit types.
21. Section 16 rule for power over Ethernet, refer to table 16.
22. 16-212(5) requirements for equipment class 2 output.
23. Section 18 intrinsically safe non-incentive circuits for zone 2, refer to appendix F and appendix J. updated for user friendly wording.
24. New table 70, equipment types permitted in different zones.
25. Heavy duty (HD) liquid tight flexible metal conduit now allowed for use in hazardous locations, zone 2.
26. 18-052 appendix B temperature outside ambient range.
27. Section 29 new table 69, hazardous locations within bulk storage space.
28. Section 24, C22.2 No. 204 line isolation monitoring alert trigger level increased. Can now use metallic conduit in zone.
29. 24-102 clarified.
30. Section 26 unit substation.
31. 26-258(4) primary and secondary conductor of high voltage and low voltage transformer.
32. 26-722(a) more than one refrigerator receptacle allowed per circuit.
33. 26-724 AFCI exemptions reduced or removed.
34. 26-724(e) no need for dedicated circuit in kitchen area.
35. 26-700(12) tamper receptacles required in hotel guest room, daycare, schools.
36. 30-200 combustible materials may be in proximity to light fixtures.
37. Section 30 disconnect to LED light fixture exceeding 150VAC to ground.
38. Section 32-200, 32-206.
39. 32-119 smoke/co alarm with battery backup are allowed to be on AFCI/GFCI circuit.
40. Section 62 electric heating in area with sink, shower or tub require GFCI protection.
41. Section 64 renewable energy systems, disconnect means, rapid shutdown system, define recombiner.
42. 64-202 feeder voltage exemption raised from 1000VDC to 1500VDC.
43. Section 78 GFCI expanded to floating piers and docking facilities.
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Jan 6, 2002
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Quick, everyone replace your dimmer switches now if you have switches without neutral! ;)
I've got a pretty good friend who's seen me at my worst.
He don't care if I'm a blessing or a curse,
But he always shows up when the chips are down.
That's the kind of friend I like to be around.
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hoob wrote:
Dec 7th, 2017 4:05 pm
Quick, everyone replace your dimmer switches now if you have switches without neutral! ;)
you got 6 months

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