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[2018 UPDATE] Ask me anything about home electrical requirements, electrical code, wiring, devices

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  • Jan 20th, 2018 11:32 am
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Deal Addict
Sep 11, 2006
1095 posts
235 upvotes
Toronto
shiangsta wrote:
Dec 17th, 2017 9:59 pm
I'm looking to replace my switch box with a deeper one for a smart switch, but I can quite figure out how to get this one out. I don't see any screws/nails affixing it to the studs. Is anyone here familiar with this kind of setup and have suggestion on how I can remove it? Alternatively, if you know how I can keep it the way it is and fit my new wifi switch in there, that'll work too. Another point to note: my house has aluminum wiring.

Here are some pics: https://imgur.com/a/7IWlE

Thanks in advance.
Looks like the box is sitting directly on the drywall behind it hence why a shallow box was used. I doubt you will have room for a deeper box is what I am saying. Also have you ever worked with aluminum? Proper care and installation methods need to be taken when working with it.
Jr. Member
Jan 25, 2012
185 posts
62 upvotes
NORTH YORK
DIrty-D wrote:
Dec 18th, 2017 9:06 am
Looks like the box is sitting directly on the drywall behind it hence why a shallow box was used. I doubt you will have room for a deeper box is what I am saying. Also have you ever worked with aluminum? Proper care and installation methods need to be taken when working with it.
That's sucks... what do you guys think about an "extender"? maybe a piece of MDF cut to the shape of the switch plate that'll give me more depth? is that to code?
Deal Fanatic
Jul 4, 2004
7265 posts
575 upvotes
Toronto
shiangsta wrote:
Dec 18th, 2017 9:22 am
That's sucks... what do you guys think about an "extender"? maybe a piece of MDF cut to the shape of the switch plate that'll give me more depth? is that to code?
Sure. But you need to use a box extender not just longer screws on the device.
Jr. Member
Jan 25, 2012
185 posts
62 upvotes
NORTH YORK
Drew_W wrote:
Dec 18th, 2017 9:50 am
Sure. But you need to use a box extender not just longer screws on the device.
you mean gasket for spacing (MDF cutout) + box extender?
Deal Fanatic
Jul 4, 2004
7265 posts
575 upvotes
Toronto
shiangsta wrote:
Dec 18th, 2017 10:11 am
you mean gasket for spacing (MDF cutout) + box extender?
Yup.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jan 27, 2014
3405 posts
736 upvotes
Mississauga
If my current ceiling semi flush light fixtures are 2 bulbs but I am to change to new semi flush light fixtures of 3 bulbs could there be any complications? Or is this something that is no problem?
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Jr. Member
Mar 21, 2006
156 posts
14 upvotes
Looking for a little insight. Currently have about 30 4 inch pot lights hat I would like to put some led bulbs into. By searching online I’ve decided to go with the 4” retrofit found on various websites my question is can I adapt the retrofit kit to the e26 base or can I purchase a retrofit kit with a junction box and adapt from there.

The two kits I’m looking at are :

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0764GCJD ... SY340_QL65

Or

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01D91C1F ... SY340_QL65

I prefer the look of the first ones as it’s a flush mount versus a more recessed look. TIA!
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Jan 6, 2002
5025 posts
4953 upvotes
Toronto
BMC wrote:
Dec 19th, 2017 6:54 am
Looking for a little insight. Currently have about 30 4 inch pot lights hat I would like to put some led bulbs into. By searching online I’ve decided to go with the 4” retrofit found on various websites my question is can I adapt the retrofit kit to the e26 base or can I purchase a retrofit kit with a junction box and adapt from there.

The two kits I’m looking at are :

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0764GCJD ... SY340_QL65

Or

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01D91C1F ... SY340_QL65

I prefer the look of the first ones as it’s a flush mount versus a more recessed look. TIA!
The first kit isn't a retrofit kit. Since it has the LED drivers inside the junction box, you can't use it to retrofit just the light into existing cans.
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Deal Addict
Sep 11, 2006
1095 posts
235 upvotes
Toronto
ar2020 wrote:
Dec 19th, 2017 12:46 am
If my current ceiling semi flush light fixtures are 2 bulbs but I am to change to new semi flush light fixtures of 3 bulbs could there be any complications? Or is this something that is no problem?
Yes no problem at all with that.
Deal Addict
Sep 11, 2006
1095 posts
235 upvotes
Toronto
BMC wrote:
Dec 19th, 2017 6:54 am
Looking for a little insight. Currently have about 30 4 inch pot lights hat I would like to put some led bulbs into. By searching online I’ve decided to go with the 4” retrofit found on various websites my question is can I adapt the retrofit kit to the e26 base or can I purchase a retrofit kit with a junction box and adapt from there.

The two kits I’m looking at are :

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0764GCJD ... SY340_QL65

Or

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01D91C1F ... SY340_QL65

I prefer the look of the first ones as it’s a flush mount versus a more recessed look. TIA!
if it has a junction box it's not a retrofit light. To use the junction box you would have to remove the can and re-feed the wire to the new junction box.
You should get lights that are CSA approved though and a lot of the stuff on Amazon (even amazon.ca) are not approved for Canadian use.
Also make sure the new lights dimensions are equal to or greater than the existing ones trim, otherwise you will have an unsightly ring around the opening from the old fixture.
Newbie
Apr 17, 2016
44 posts
5 upvotes
My rough in inspection passed (ya!!) but I forgot to ask at what point I can get my final inspection? Potlights are in, outlets are done but flooring, paint and trim aren’t done yet. Could it be done before all that? Thanks.
Sr. Member
User avatar
Oct 24, 2008
707 posts
265 upvotes
Hi everyone,

I'm in the process of finishing my basement and have a couple questions regarding the ESA inspection process.
First off, I have completed all of the wiring myself, and have pulled a permit in my name.
I'm nearing the end of the wiring project, and am hoping to get an inspector in within the next couple of weeks.

My question is about the actual inspection process, and what the inspector needs to see done:

- I have run the wires into all device boxes. The wires have the jacket removed (at least 6 inches), are stripped and I've made any necessary connections inside the box (connecting neutrals, ground wires, pig tails etc where necessary) but have not connected the actual receptacles/switches. I believe this is correct?

- I will be installing pot lights, but not until the drywall is done. Currently the wires are all mounted in the ceiling and bunched up where I plan for the light to go. Should I be preparing the wiring (removing jacket, stripping the wires) for the inspection? I cannot mount the pot lights until after drywall is up, so I'm a little confused what they will need to see here. The pot lights have the device box built in.

- I have all wires run to the panel sitting there disconnected (obviously!). Should I be preparing these wires (outer jacket removed, wires stripped)? I have not yet purchased breakers, do I need to have these present for the inspection? I know nothing about working on the panel, so I'm thinking I might hire someone to install the breakers and complete the final connections once my work is signed off.. thoughts?

- Last one.. Currently there are lights in the ceiling of the basement (2) which will be removed before the drywall goes up. I know for the inspection, they need to see them either properly terminated or removed, but without these lights the basement will be pitch black.. What should I do here?

Thank you in advance!
Deal Addict
Apr 15, 2003
1135 posts
154 upvotes
Ottawa
Looking to add 2 outlets maybe 3 on a new circuit in my single car garage (which is the ground level of the house). Main panel is located in the garage and I’m thinking an exposed run with conduit will be easier than holes and fishing wire.

I was quoted $500 for two outlets (new AFCI breaker required) and added costs to do conduit vs fishing the wire and installing outlets in the walls. One outlet would be located on the back wall of the garage (firewall between me and the unit behind me, the second on the ceiling for lighting).

Would I be better served having an electrician do this work or is it easy enough if I follow the code and safety to do the work myself?

Thanks!

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