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[2018 UPDATE] Ask me anything about home electrical requirements, electrical code, wiring, devices

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  • Jan 18th, 2018 2:24 pm
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Deal Addict
Sep 11, 2006
1095 posts
235 upvotes
Toronto
dav254 wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 9:14 am
Hello,
I'm adding a new 40A circuit to my house for a new cooktop. The cooktop has only 2 conductors - black and red. I'm wondering if it's permissible to use 8/2 cable for this circuit (cheaper cable, easier to pull).
Or must I pull 8/3 cable in order to connect black to black and red to red, leaving the white conductor in the new 8/3 unused? I'm in Ontario.
Thanks for any help!
Yes you can use 8/2. You would probably be able to buy 8/3 cheaper anyway because of availability, I would think 8/2 would have to be ordered and not regularly stocked anywhere.
Deal Addict
Sep 11, 2006
1095 posts
235 upvotes
Toronto
Frank2029 wrote:
Jan 9th, 2018 8:23 pm
I was wondering if anyone can help me out.

I moved into my home 5 years ago and noticed some weird electrical issues but never really payed too much attention to it until recently.

I have a computer which i mine Bitcoin/alt-coins with a 4 video card setup (a whole different topic) but when it's running the lights flicker. I have tried using different outlets and even an outlet that's close to the power panel that's a dedicated line. I even bought a good quality surge protector that delivers "clean" power and reduces "noise" nothing seems to have worked.

Couple of things I should mention.

The 100A Power panel was installed in 2011. It was inspected and passed by the ESA.

When bigger appliances turn on like the fridge or furnace the lights get BRIGHTER for a split second before returning to normal. Usually it's the opposite. The lights should dim when there is a power draw before returning to normal. Is that correct?

Not every light flickers but the one's that do are all different flavors. Incandescent, flurecent and hologen. Even the fridge light flickers sometimes.

The mining rig draws between 750w to 800w constantly and fluctuates in between there every few seconds (according to the wattage meter it's hooked up to.

My microwave came with the house but it's an older one and because I hardly ever use it I never bought a newer one. It's a 2500w Samsung. When it runs you can hear it start to decrease in power draw after the initial start up.

I plan on calling the ESA and asking for 2nd opinion since I really don't know if the ESA tag is even real!
Looks legit but you never know

I have tried troubleshooting and tried all sorts of scenereos with the computer. I have come to the conclusion that it is not the computer but rather somewhere on the panel. I have checked all wiring on the panel and all seems good.... I'm stumped....

I guess my question is if anyone can help suggest or even tell me what the problem might be. Thank you!!
Depends how old your homes wiring is. If it was just a panel swap, then esa likely didn't check to see how tight the lugs are of the panel. Could be a loose wire somewhere inside or outside the house. This will only get worse if it goes ignored. Best to call an electrician that specializes in troubleshooting old wiring.
Newbie
Jan 6, 2018
3 posts
Kelowna, BC
DIrty-D wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 3:13 pm
You posted one picture and asked a very broad question that nobody can answer with the lack of information you provided, hence why you have not received any other replies.
Then just reply by a simple "there isn't enough info posted".
DIrty-D wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 3:13 pm
1 it would be marked ...
Difficult to judge because 1) I didn't check *all* the wire, and 2) even nmb90 cable doesn't have continuous marking on 100% of the run length. Thus my question.
DIrty-D wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 3:13 pm
The work needs to be inspected by your AHJ anyway so I was just trying to "warn" you. They would make you rip it all out if it's not to code and do it properly anyway.
That's not my work. That being said, from other clues I found in the structure, it probably need to be completely re-wired anyway. So any inspection at this point is irrelevant.
Sr. Member
Feb 17, 2012
528 posts
82 upvotes
Toronto
DIrty-D wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 3:23 pm
Depends how old your homes wiring is. If it was just a panel swap, then esa likely didn't check to see how tight the lugs are of the panel. Could be a loose wire somewhere inside or outside the house. This will only get worse if it goes ignored. Best to call an electrician that specializes in troubleshooting old wiring.
It was definitely a panel swap. Most of the wiring looks to be original (55yrs old) but the outlet im plugged into has brand new romex cable to a brand new outlet. Looks to be installed roughly the same time as the panel swap (2011) I checked the all connects and everything seems okay. Im not aware of these "lugs" you are speaking of but i did hand tighten the neutral bar connections.
Newbie
Nov 21, 2006
69 posts
7 upvotes
Winnipeg
Hey guys, I'm getting Schluter in floor heating installed. I'm told it's 120V @ 20AMP.
I purchased a 20AMP breaker, and 12/2 Wire for the run.
The question is, there was yellow and red casing to choose from for the wire.
What should I choose?
(I chose yellow for the record, but can swap it as needed).
thanks in advance!
Member
User avatar
Mar 3, 2013
462 posts
240 upvotes
Newmarket
MaxSteel wrote:
Jan 11th, 2018 1:23 pm
Hey guys, I'm getting Schluter in floor heating installed. I'm told it's 120V @ 20AMP.
I purchased a 20AMP breaker, and 12/2 Wire for the run.
The question is, there was yellow and red casing to choose from for the wire.
What should I choose?
(I chose yellow for the record, but can swap it as needed).
thanks in advance!
You did good choosing the yellow cable. It's 120V so you require a neutral (white)
The red cable is generally for loads that are 240V because the cable has a red and a black.
A Licensed Electrical Contractor
Newbie
Nov 21, 2006
69 posts
7 upvotes
Winnipeg
MrSparky wrote:
Jan 11th, 2018 1:45 pm
You did good choosing the yellow cable. It's 120V so you require a neutral (white)
The red cable is generally for loads that are 240V because the cable has a red and a black.
Excellent, that's what I *thought* as per my research, but it wasn't an easy answer to find. Much appreciated!
Deal Fanatic
Jul 4, 2004
7265 posts
575 upvotes
Toronto
MaxSteel wrote:
Jan 11th, 2018 2:44 pm
Excellent, that's what I *thought* as per my research, but it wasn't an easy answer to find. Much appreciated!
Unless it's a large mat or long cable you don't actually need 20A - check the spec, it's available with the mat or cable used.
Deal Addict
Mar 7, 2011
2745 posts
837 upvotes
Vancouver
cannon_fodder wrote:
Dec 22nd, 2017 5:26 pm
Our new home has a couple of things I'd like to possibly improve.
1. There are about 12 LED potlights in the outside soffits at the front that are switched on/off via a switch near the front entrance closet. What would it take to have these put on either a timer or a light sensor so that they automatically come on / turn off?
check this out amazon-com-wemo-light-switch-2162803/
Deal Addict
Mar 7, 2011
2745 posts
837 upvotes
Vancouver
MaxSteel wrote:
Jan 11th, 2018 1:23 pm
The question is, there was yellow and red casing to choose from for the wire.
What should I choose? (I chose yellow for the record, but can swap it as needed). thanks in advance!
12/2 is 12/2 is 12/2, no matter the colour. If one is using red+black for 120v all you need to do is put some white tape at both ends of the red wire. Same goes if one is using white+black for 240, just put black tape on both ends of the white wire.
Deal Addict
Mar 7, 2011
2745 posts
837 upvotes
Vancouver
MrFrugal1 wrote:
Jan 13th, 2018 6:53 pm
That's the expensive, planned obsolescence, "Geek-tastic Orgasmic" approach to a simple solution.
LOL ... it's only $8 more than a DUMB timer (that I suggested him a while ago). But hey, feel free to come up with a better, cheaper solution ... I'm listening.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jan 2, 2012
1920 posts
809 upvotes
KINGSTON,ON
charlesd79 wrote:
Jan 14th, 2018 11:28 pm
LOL ... it's only $8 more than a DUMB timer (that I suggested him a while ago). But hey, feel free to come up with a better, cheaper solution ... I'm listening.
Ya, sure it's only $8 more than a dumb timer, except it requires other technology to operate it. When it's no longer supported by that technology, (in say, 3 years time), it'll end up in the e-waste bin.
Newbie
Jan 14, 2018
3 posts
I am replacing my sister's fuse panel. I know I need #3 AWG wire for 100 amp service. Not sure if I use RW90 TW75 ? What is the newest regulation in Ontario? Have replaced several panels before just not lately.
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Dec 11, 2004
7475 posts
975 upvotes
Montreal, QC
MrFrugal1 wrote:
Jan 15th, 2018 6:54 am
Ya, sure it's only $8 more than a dumb timer, except it requires other technology to operate it. When it's no longer supported by that technology, (in say, 3 years time), it'll end up in the e-waste bin.
Actually it's cheaper than an astronomical timer that uses your location for sunset/sunrise AND much easier to program than reading through the manual and fiddling with a tiny buttons/switch and LCD screen.
I would set it once and forget about it (unless one ends up moving their house lol)

Both of these are $50
https://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-VPT24-1PZ ... B003AIKQZ8
https://www.amazon.ca/Honeywell-Econosw ... 004AP92N2/

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