Another torque Nazi (or should I say tape measure Nazi) who's got too much time to waste.Suthek wrote: ↑ +1 to this.
People keep mistaking verification for calibration.
Calibrating is to correlate the readings of an instrument with those of a standard in order to check the instrument's accuracy.
....Emphasis on a standard.
A device used, such as a tape measure, would need to be therefore also certified to a standard (aka calibrated.)
And yes... you can calibrate a tape measure. (refer to definition above.)
Amazon.ca
CDI Torque wrench 1/2 Drive, 30-250 ft-lbs - $208 Amazon
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- muffin_man
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- Dec 3, 2010
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- fonzy35
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- May 26, 2010
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- Eastern Canada
Yup, that's what i do.muffin_man wrote: ↑ Anyone with half a brain and simple instruments such as scale and measuring tape can do calibration at home.
I put a bolt in the vise, set your torque wrench to desire ft-lb or what ever the unit you use.
A good scale(electronic)..,
Do different ft-lb measurement, you will get a small spec different..
In reality, that's what your expensive verification(edited ) equipment does for you...
And the torque wrench, got to be at room temperature before use.., if it's in un-heated shed, bring it in before use, and always release the tension on the torque wrench when you done with,
Sorry this was for the other guy with expensive calibrating equipment
re-edited it's to verify your ft-lb torque wrench only, not calibrating...
G**d d*** tablet auto-correction s***t lol
Last edited by fonzy35 on May 24th, 2018 4:29 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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- Suthek
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The great thing about room temperature is that any room is room temperature.
I can have a room that's 10 degrees... or a room that's 40 degrees. They are all "room temperature".
That being said, you want to verify your device in the temperature you plan on using it in. (such as that shed?)
There's no sense in verifying your torque wrench at 21 degrees if you use it at minus 30 in Alaska.
- fonzy35
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Well, i won't use it if it's frozen, i think you missed the point..Suthek wrote: ↑ The great thing about room temperature is that any room is room temperature.
I can have a room that's 10 degrees... or a room that's 40 degrees. They are all "room temperature".
That being said, you want to verify your device in the temperature you plan on using it in. (such as that shed?)
There's no sense in verifying your torque wrench at 21 degrees if you use it at minus 30 in Alaska.
Anyway, i don't won't to drag this topic any longer..
There's to many specialist or want to be out there with different opinion..
Thanks again Op for sharing your find
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- NewLogik
- Member
- Nov 17, 2012
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- Le Gardeur
This shouldn't apply to a precision tool like a torque wrench... if you care enough about having a specific torque, you want the tool to be as accurate as possible...rabbitz wrote: ↑ Weird, is there suddenly a huge demand for high-priced torque wrenches?? Personally I use a $20 torque wrench I got from princess auto.... if it fails maybe I'll consider the $200 one lol! What's that saying? Buy cheap tools first and only expensive (i.e. high quality) ones after you break the cheap one!
- Dandada
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- Aug 16, 2009
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BS, out of the box CT and PA torque to spec for the most part.Gutty96 wrote: ↑ Is this a serious question? Which do you think is better?
CDI torque products are made by snap on. I have been calibrating the tools in our shop for a decade now ( we make hydro transformers) and I can tell you that CDI is the only brand I buy and allow on the floor now. The junk at CT for under $100 doesn't even pass our calibration standard when new most of the time, let alone stand up to hundreds of breaks a day, for years without going out of tolerance like the CDI do.
My Gramma always said "we are poor, so make sure you buy expensive stuff". She was a wise old lady.
My Power Fist ones from PA still torque to spec after non heavy use after 7 years. i.e used a few times a year.
If you are going to use it daily in a garage, ok go with the best.
Also with a 1/2" drive, come on, you can be over a pound off before it really matter.
It's not like it's a 1/4" drive where you are torquing valve heads.
- Dandada
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- Aug 16, 2009
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Agreed but what delicate work are most people doing with a 1/2" drive.derass wrote: ↑ This is excellent testimony. Thank you.
A cheap torque wrench might be good enough for lug nuts and such. But not so if you're working on precision fasteners and delicate parts. Imagine stripping the threads on an aluminum cylinder head while torquing down new spark plugs. Or torquing down camshaft caps. Or timing components into the block. You saved $100 on the wrench, but now you need a $1000+ replacement part.
For tools like these, buy them once, buy them for life.
People need to add context.
This is more than adequate to change wheel and other things most people will use a 1/2" drive for.
- Dandada
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- Dandada
- Sr. Member
- Aug 16, 2009
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- Dandada
- Sr. Member
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Very well putt. Digging the shooting reference.
- Dandada
- Sr. Member
- Aug 16, 2009
- 716 posts
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Very well putt. Digging the shooting reference.
- Gutty96
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How did it go from a non heavy use a few times a year in your first post, to moderate use in this one? Interesting inconsistencies.
I have had torque wrenches from Princess Auto and CT in my shops. Neither brand survived more than a couple weeks. Sorry to disappoint your purchase.
On that note, how do you know they are still in spec? I have had ones brand new from those places that could not meet industry standards.
- derass
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You're right, I should have been more clear. I'm currently in the market for a 0-20 lb-ft torque wrench (either 1/4" or 3/8" drive, not sure yet), and I saw OP's link had also had those kind of offerings apart from the 1/2" in the title. So I suppose that was on my mind when I wrote that post.
So yes, I agree. As I said in my OP, a cheap wrench is probably fine for torquing wheel nuts, but I would not trust one to do precision work.
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