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Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax CDN$ 16.99 + tax, free shipping-prime

  • Last Updated:
  • Jan 8th, 2020 8:27 am
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Mar 6, 2003
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pnyknights wrote: Agreed, prep is key. I usually, wash (CG HD bucket), dry, spray with glass cleaner, then apply the rainx
I would actually recommend claying the windshield at least once a year (after the winter). The windshield comes out so smooth and the beading is even more effective.

I used the Griots clay (not sure it makes any difference versus regular paint clay but they claim it works better) https://www.amazon.ca/Griots-Garage-110 ... B004UQQT0A
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Nov 7, 2018
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Beadmaker and carpro hydro02 are much cheaper and same shit
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Sep 8, 2007
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Kudos to OP for getting the discussion going on this. And to the posters for adding value as opposed to some fanboy brand war.

- ended up picking a bottle of Turtle Wax S&S at Walmart for $14.99
- appears to be low stock or not restocking at the moment so perhaps a good idea to grab one sooner than later
- in terms of product quantity keep in mind the OPs deal has 50% more product over the TW bottle
- in the past decade I’d mostly stuck with Zaino (got too expensive) and Duragloss (not as good as Zaino but cheaper) so willing to try out some of these newer big name formulations. Particularly the ceramic types.
Member
Mar 29, 2006
483 posts
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Markham
I was deciding between this and Hydrosilex Recharge. There is a comparison on youtube with Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax Vs. Hydrosilex Recharge. Hydrosilex is the better choice.
Has anyone have an experience with Hydrosilex?
Here is a link to the video -
Last edited by Type-R on Jan 7th, 2020 8:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Jan 4, 2019
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johntitor2036 wrote: Any of these help with salt build up ? xD after driving on the 401 last night in the snow my red mirrors are white
The other poster was dead wrong. A good wax will help defend against salt. It also makes salt removal easier.

When my car is properly sealed up. A straight shot of just water and the salt runs right off with ease.

It can and will still build up if you don't wash it. But it will be slower to build and and will clear. Off much easier.
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warpdrive wrote: I would actually recommend claying the windshield at least once a year (after the winter). The windshield comes out so smooth and the beading is even more effective.

I used the Griots clay (not sure it makes any difference versus regular paint clay but they claim it works better) https://www.amazon.ca/Griots-Garage-110 ... B004UQQT0A
I actually finally opened up my Mothers clay bar kit from 2011 :P
Got plenty of the rail dust off the car finally, was gonna try it out on the windshield but the sun was coming up already
I'll give it a try again in the spring, thx! :)
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Jan 30, 2016
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ReadAllTheDeals wrote: The other poster was dead wrong. A good wax will help defend against salt. It also makes salt removal easier.

When my car is properly sealed up. A straight shot of just water and the salt runs right off with ease.

It can and will still build up if you don't wash it. But it will be slower to build and and will clear. Off much easier.
I do notice salt runs off better in a long drive with meguiars ultimate wax applied. But I'm assuming that meguiars ultimate wax is probably more durable than this liquid application
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Aug 16, 2006
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Turtle Wax just introduced a ceramic hybrid product line that is a more direct competitor to this Meguiar's product. It is supposedly longer lasting than the Seal and Shine, "a minimum of six months". Was really impressed with the S&S and ICE wax, but I'm looking forward to trying the ceramic line.
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Dec 10, 2003
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Vancouver #1
I used it like those videos. Spray liberally. It leaves streaks. Like watermarks in streaks. On windshield and on paint. My car is dark grey. Will try using much less next time. Beading is good but streak marks stay on even after washes.
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Feb 2, 2010
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sneek wrote: This is a crazy good deal!

Been using this product for a while but not really as designed. I diluted it and used it as a weekly drying aid with ONR. Works wonderfully and no streaking. Durability is long enough for be because I wash a lot.
I use OQD as a drying aid\finisher, works beautifully to provide gloss and reduce streaking on my black Pilot. Thinking of giving this a try though. Can it be used in cool temperatures like my garage in winter?
Beep\Bop\Boop
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Aug 26, 2002
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ReadAllTheDeals wrote: The other poster was dead wrong. A good wax will help defend against salt. It also makes salt removal easier.

When my car is properly sealed up. A straight shot of just water and the salt runs right off with ease.

It can and will still build up if you don't wash it. But it will be slower to build and and will clear. Off much easier.
You said the same thing as me and yet you said I'm dead wrong?!? Sheesh....
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Sep 18, 2006
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Tapout123 wrote: I use OQD as a drying aid\finisher, works beautifully to provide gloss and reduce streaking on my black Pilot. Thinking of giving this a try though. Can it be used in cool temperatures like my garage in winter?
Should be fine in the garage at above freezing temps. Due note, this is not really a "quick detailer" and shouldn't be used as such. It's a true last-step-product in my eyes. +1 to Optimum No Rinse, I use it for everything quick detailing/cleaning/lube related. I don't handwash in winter anymore, so I cannot comment on compatibility with doing hoseless washes in winter (in conjunction with ONR), but I imagine you can spray it on, (maybe rinse?) and use as a QD while drying for an ONR wash in winter..

Optimum time to apply would have been late fall, should last in some capacity until spring (March) if applied in late October*.
*Disclaimer: touchless only car washes during winter bi-weekly, so no touching. Beading falls off after 2-3 months, but car will still be very clean after car wash. There will be a minor "film" of grime in spring, but easily taken care of with a handwash. I've abandoned all other LSP products and I've tried them all. On a fleet of 6+ cars/toys, I use nothing else but Mckees Hydro Blue (similar spray and rinse application product)
My evolution of fav LSP's: Meg 16 > Zaino > Collinite 845 > Zaino Clear seal > Optimum Opti-seal > Mckees Hydro Blue

And no, I don't buy into $500+ ceramic coats. Not worth it unless for a garage queen, and because ceramic coat upkeep is more finiky w.r.t water spots, sap, etc on a daily driver, or if it is parked outdoors.
I'll stick with these "spray and pray" products and get back to 100% protection in 2 minutes flat per car, 2-3x a year @ <$2/application.
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Mar 7, 2018
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liquid product never last long IMO
I never downvote.

Thanks OP, grab 10
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BMWWW wrote: Should be fine in the garage at above freezing temps. Due note, this is not really a "quick detailer" and shouldn't be used as such. It's a true last-step-product in my eyes. +1 to Optimum No Rinse, I use it for everything quick detailing/cleaning/lube related. I don't handwash in winter anymore, so I cannot comment on compatibility with doing hoseless washes in winter (in conjunction with ONR), but I imagine you can spray it on, (maybe rinse?) and use as a QD while drying for an ONR wash in winter..

Optimum time to apply would have been late fall, should last in some capacity until spring (March) if applied in late October*.
*Disclaimer: touchless only car washes during winter bi-weekly, so no touching. Beading falls off after 2-3 months, but car will still be very clean after car wash. There will be a minor "film" of grime in spring, but easily taken care of with a handwash. I've abandoned all other LSP products and I've tried them all. On a fleet of 6+ cars/toys, I use nothing else but Mckees Hydro Blue (similar spray and rinse application product)
My evolution of fav LSP's: Meg 16 > Zaino > Collinite 845 > Zaino Clear seal > Optimum Opti-seal > Mckees Hydro Blue

And no, I don't buy into $500+ ceramic coats. Not worth it unless for a garage queen, and because ceramic coat upkeep is more finiky w.r.t water spots, sap, etc on a daily driver, or if it is parked outdoors.
I'll stick with these "spray and pray" products and get back to 100% protection in 2 minutes flat per car, 2-3x a year @ <$2/application.
How much better is Hydro Blue vs Opti-Seal? Been using Optiseal as a drying agent to speed up the process in the winter and it seems to be doing well. That small bottle goes a long way!
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Dec 17, 2017
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damn thought it was some new wax for hair that uses ceramic. Thought there was a hair was technology breakthrough for some reason.
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BMWWW wrote: Should be fine in the garage at above freezing temps. Due note, this is not really a "quick detailer" and shouldn't be used as such. It's a true last-step-product in my eyes.
Yeah, I guess I'm thinking of maybe after I get the car washed in the winter (with weather like today, +2 and sunny) then finish in the wash parking lot with OQD, then this stuff.

So would this or the Turtle Wax product be used after waxing or before? I put a coat of Pete's 53 on at the end of October, so if I use it now it will be going over a coat of that.
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Dec 25, 2007
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kc1 wrote: Turtle Wax just introduced a ceramic hybrid product line that is a more direct competitor to this Meguiar's product. It is supposedly longer lasting than the Seal and Shine, "a minimum of six months". Was really impressed with the S&S and ICE wax, but I'm looking forward to trying the ceramic line.
It is decent. Nothing too earth shattering though. I have been using it for the last couple months. I like the wax and you dry from hybrid solutions the most. The ceramic spray wax didn't blow me away. Seal and shine was a stellar product, I'm not sure that the new ceramic is much better. They are pretty much the same price so it doesn't hurt to try.

Only real benefit? Hybrid Solutions smells like mango and S&S smells like hair spray.
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Dec 25, 2007
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Tapout123 wrote: I use OQD as a drying aid\finisher, works beautifully to provide gloss and reduce streaking on my black Pilot. Thinking of giving this a try though. Can it be used in cool temperatures like my garage in winter?
It most certainly can be. I used 10 parts water to 1 part HCW. Used it in an insulated but not heated garage in -15. No problem using it as a drying aid with ONR wash.
BMWWW wrote:
My evolution of fav LSP's: Meg 16 > Zaino > Collinite 845 > Zaino Clear seal > Optimum Opti-seal > Mckees Hydro Blue

And no, I don't buy into $500+ ceramic coats. Not worth it unless for a garage queen, and because ceramic coat upkeep is more finiky w.r.t water spots, sap, etc on a daily driver, or if it is parked outdoors.
I'll stick with these "spray and pray" products and get back to 100% protection in 2 minutes flat per car, 2-3x a year @ <$2/application.
Ceramic coatings have their place in the market for sure. I actually like them more for people that will abuse their cars and not care for them we well as they should. They do have their own unique maintenance but undoubtedly last longer than other LSPs.

Also Meguar's M16 > pretty much everything I have tried over the years. I think I have detailed over 1000 cars in the last 15+ years as a hobby detailer but still go back to M16 for those special show cars.
It just has this magic pop that few others have. I suspect beadmaker is as good but it seems to get hazy when it is curing.
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Sep 18, 2006
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cgg123321 wrote:
How much better is Hydro Blue vs Opti-Seal? Been using Optiseal as a drying agent to speed up the process in the winter and it seems to be doing well. That small bottle goes a long way!
I'm pretty sure you're talking about ONR, as Optiseal is a standalone sealant, not a quick detailer. It's their wipe-on-walk-away product that requires no buffing. I used to use it (I'm lazy, and too many vehicles) before the introduction of "spray on, rinse off to apply" sealants like this thread. RE: Opti-seal vs "spray and rinse off" products, spray and rinse products won't last more than 3 months in terms of beading, whereas Opti Seal and other "old fashioned sealants" are probably 4-6 months in terms of Canadian durability--less in winter.
Tapout123 wrote: Yeah, I guess I'm thinking of maybe after I get the car washed in the winter (with weather like today, +2 and sunny) then finish in the wash parking lot with OQD, then this stuff.

So would this or the Turtle Wax product be used after waxing or before? I put a coat of Pete's 53 on at the end of October, so if I use it now it will be going over a coat of that.
Honestly, as a former detailer now just a lazy detailer, I would use Meg Hybrid Ceramic Wax/ TW S&S as a standalone last-step product. Feel free to layer ontop of Petes 53, but come spring, you can do what I have done with all my other now-retired LSP's and skip them.
For best results:
Wash > claybar/claymitt (other game changer for those whom are lazy) > dry > machine compound/polish > Insert LSP here
Assuming you wash and dry the "detailer way" aka, 2-bucket
Every 3-4 months after inital application: wash > spray and rinse product > dry

That simple. If you wash/dry, and generally minimize touching the paint, you do not need to polish nor compound every year. I have a black 2011 e90 in black sapphire metallic that has not had machine polishing in 3 years, minimal swirls (that I can live with) at this point. I maybe handwash every 2-4 months, bi-weekly touchless car washes. No handwashing between Nov-March.
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