Thread: Analyze my aircare printout
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Dec 25th, 2006 11:23 PM
#1
Analyze my aircare printout
analyze
http://img218.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0015zv0.jpg
high hydrocarbons and carbondioxide on driving and idle test
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Dec 27th, 2006 01:07 AM
#2

Originally Posted by
mtharvey
High hydrocarbons are caused by unburnt fuel. Check your 02 sensors first then your catalytics.
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Dec 27th, 2006 12:27 PM
#3
Type of car would help......
High HC alone usually indicates a misfire of some sort, but when accompanied by high CO, it shows a rich running engine. Audidude is right, start with testing your O2 for a lazy signal. Was your car at operating temp when you ran through the test?
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Dec 27th, 2006 06:39 PM
#4
1991 nissan 240sx
Thanks for replies. I dont know how to check catalytics.
I have checked my sparkplugs and they are not wet.
I did a self-diagnostic test with car ecu which suggested my O2 sensor is good. For some reason though, when I disconnect O2 sensor I dont get a fault code on ecu. I dont have ecu bolted to frame of car.
My injectors leaked for a long time so maybe they damaged catayltic converter?
I did a fuel leak test which suggested that my injectors dont leak but maybe my check valve on fuel line leaks.
My fuel pressure slowly goes from 44 psi to 34 psi if engine is not turned on. I can stop loss of pressure by pinching fuel delivery hose at fuel filter. I assume the check valve is leaking.
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Dec 27th, 2006 07:30 PM
#5
You're really fighting an uphill battle here, as far as emissions are concerned. 240's fail way too often. It's unfortunate, cause the car is very fun to drive.

Originally Posted by
mtharvey
1991 nissan 240sx
Thanks for replies. I dont know how to check catalytics.
I have checked my sparkplugs and they are not wet.
I did a self-diagnostic test with car ecu which suggested my O2 sensor is good. For some reason though, when I disconnect O2 sensor I dont get a fault code on ecu. I dont have ecu bolted to frame of car.
My injectors leaked for a long time so maybe they damaged catayltic converter?
I did a fuel leak test which suggested that my injectors dont leak but maybe my check valve on fuel line leaks.
My fuel pressure slowly goes from 44 psi to 34 psi if engine is not turned on. I can stop loss of pressure by pinching fuel delivery hose at fuel filter. I assume the check valve is leaking.
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Dec 29th, 2006 12:12 AM
#6
I heard before an emissions test, you should take a long ride somewhere to warm up the CAT right before the test.
But as the guy above said, that car is getting very old, if its a 91 you still have to do emissions on it ?
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Dec 29th, 2006 02:53 AM
#7
1991 is young for a british columbia car. Im guessing it is the catalytic converter. all you have to do is clean iacv and remove aiv and these cars run fine. engines last forever.
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Dec 29th, 2006 09:05 PM
#8

Originally Posted by
mtharvey
1991 nissan 240sx
I did a self-diagnostic test with car ecu which suggested my O2 sensor is good. For some reason though, when I disconnect O2 sensor I dont get a fault code on ecu.
My fuel pressure slowly goes from 44 psi to 34 psi if engine is not turned on. I can stop loss of pressure by pinching fuel delivery hose at fuel filter. I assume the check valve is leaking.
It's very unlikely your car's ecu will catch a lazy O2 as EFI was still fairly primative in 91, especially by todays standards. You will have to use either a multimeter or better, a labscope. You want to see a rapid fluctuation in voltage (approx 20-40 times/sec) from 100mV to 900mV with 450mV as a mid-point. Do a google search on o2 testing. I'm sure there's lots of info on the net.
I still say start with your o2 as they will wear out over time.....at the very least ot will gove you a good indication of how your engine is running.
As for your fuel pressure....a 10 psi drop is not unusual after you shut off the car. What you want to see is a residual pressure of at least 15-20psi after 30 minutes. If the pressure drops off to 0 ASAP or fairly soon after you shut off the car then you may have a problem......
This site has fairly good basic info for the DIY...
http://www.autozone.com/repair_info.htm
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Dec 29th, 2006 10:34 PM
#9

Originally Posted by
dealhunting
It's very unlikely your car's ecu will catch a lazy O2 as EFI was still fairly primative in 91, especially by todays standards. You will have to use either a multimeter or better, a labscope. You want to see a rapid fluctuation in voltage (approx 20-40 times/sec) from 100mV to 900mV with 450mV as a mid-point. Do a google search on o2 testing. I'm sure there's lots of info on the net.
I still say start with your o2 as they will wear out over time.....at the very least ot will gove you a good indication of how your engine is running.
As for your fuel pressure....a 10 psi drop is not unusual after you shut off the car. What you want to see is a residual pressure of at least 15-20psi after 30 minutes. If the pressure drops off to 0 ASAP or fairly soon after you shut off the car then you may have a problem......
This site has fairly good basic info for the DIY...
http://www.autozone.com/repair_info.htm
Thanks for a knowledgeable answer. My residual pressure is approx 20 psi so Im ok there. The O2 sensor on my car does not monitor O2 under 2000 rpm. That was the way it was designed. SOmething else controls mixture during idle. Since Im failing during idle, it suggests something else is wrong. Im getting a new O2 sensor anyway because it is old. I'll do the voltage test as well. thanks.
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Dec 30th, 2006 12:38 AM
#10
It seems I may have given you some incorrect info. on most cars your age, the O2 can be tested in the manner I described. ie: the O2 sensor produces it's own voltage once it reaches operating temps. In your car it seems, Nissan used a different approach and therfore must be tested differently. The O2 is supplied a voltage and output is measured as it varies from that 1V. I'm afraid you won't be able to test it very accuratly without some special diagnostic equipment and training...If your car doesn't utilize O2 control at idle, look for some kind of idle switch and or duty cycle adjustment/idle air bypass that will adjust your CO at idle.
Sorry, but I'm not familiar with Nissan's approach to electronic engine control. you may have better luck and information at a Nissan forum....
Exhaust Gas Sensor
The exhaust gas sensor, which is placed in the exhaust pipe, monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. The sensor is made of ceramic titania which changes electrical resistance at the ideal air/fuel ratio (14.7:1). The control unit supplies the sensor with approximately 1 volt and takes the output voltage of the sensor depending on its resistance. The oxygen sensor is equipped with a heater to bring it to operating temperature quickly.
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Dec 30th, 2006 01:30 AM
#11
Newbie
Hmm, thats interesting about the O2 sensors being different dealhunting. I would have thought to test it the way you origionally described.
I too think it might be the o2 sensor. Have you ever changed it?
Do you know if it is a HEATED O2 sensor, and if your CAT was hot before testing it? That might make a diff.
I agree that usually you can clean the iacv and tb, then be good to go.
Im from the lower mainland as well with the airscare bs. You showed the graph, what about the numerical side with the info on what the max limits, average vehicle reading, and what yours was. That might give us a better idea.
I would change the O2 first before cropping out and changing the cat. If you do change the sensor, get an aftermarket one with a heater, you just run an extra two wires, one to ground and one from your coil so its power from your ignition.
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Dec 30th, 2006 08:44 PM
#12

Originally Posted by
dealhunting
It seems I may have given you some incorrect info. on most cars your age, the O2 can be tested in the manner I described. ie: the O2 sensor produces it's own voltage once it reaches operating temps. In your car it seems, Nissan used a different approach and therfore must be tested differently. The O2 is supplied a voltage and output is measured as it varies from that 1V. I'm afraid you won't be able to test it very accuratly without some special diagnostic equipment and training...If your car doesn't utilize O2 control at idle, look for some kind of idle switch and or duty cycle adjustment/idle air bypass that will adjust your CO at idle.
Sorry, but I'm not familiar with Nissan's approach to electronic engine control. you may have better luck and information at a Nissan forum....
Exhaust Gas Sensor
The exhaust gas sensor, which is placed in the exhaust pipe, monitors the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gas. The sensor is made of ceramic titania which changes electrical resistance at the ideal air/fuel ratio (14.7:1). The control unit supplies the sensor with approximately 1 volt and takes the output voltage of the sensor depending on its resistance. The oxygen sensor is equipped with a heater to bring it to operating temperature quickly.
My car is 1 volt output for rich and 0 volts for lean per factory service manual.(o2 sensor screwed in but electrical lead disconnected) I'm reading a little less than 1 at idle and over 2000 rpm. The voltage starts off low and gradually increases to approx 1 as car heats up.
Last edited by mtharvey; Dec 30th, 2006 at 08:53 PM.
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Dec 30th, 2006 09:05 PM
#13
Last edited by mtharvey; Dec 30th, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
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Jan 2nd, 2007 02:04 PM
#14

Originally Posted by
mtharvey
My car is 1 volt output for rich and 0 volts for lean per factory service manual.(o2 sensor screwed in but electrical lead disconnected) I'm reading a little less than 1 at idle and over 2000 rpm. The voltage starts off low and gradually increases to approx 1 as car heats up.
That is not an accurate way to test an O2.
By the looks of your test results you failed both idle and cruise and failed BAD. To be honest, if I were you, I would take it into an aircare certified repair facility and get it diagnosed properly. At least this way if repairs exceed your repair limit, you have the choice of not doing it and still get a conditional pass for 1 year.
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Jan 3rd, 2007 05:30 AM
#15

Originally Posted by
dealhunting
That is not an accurate way to test an O2.
By the looks of your test results you failed both idle and cruise and failed BAD. To be honest, if I were you, I would take it into an aircare certified repair facility and get it diagnosed properly. At least this way if repairs exceed your repair limit, you have the choice of not doing it and still get a conditional pass for 1 year.
I did test O2 sensor with it connected to ecu. I still got around 1 volt during idle and then the the readings starting going crazy .2,.4, .5., .8 volts alternating. The O2 sensor on this car does not control mix during idle so this makes sense.
Going to repair shop tomorrow. will report back.
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