A super, super hot engine is the surest way to get through. Sit in the lot, bring the RPMs up to near the redline, and keep it there. If your engine heat guage get to it's limit, its time to go in and get tested. Otherwise, 5 minutes should do it.
I did this and got 0 for CO in an 86 olds. I've never failed.
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Jul 31st, 2003 12:35 PM #16
Where did she take it? I suggest actually taking it to a Nissan dealer. Numerous things can effect the test, but the most common problem is running the car in the wrong gear. My old 3 speed auto dodge shadow failed everytime unless it was ran in 2nd like it was supposed to. In 2nd it passed right away.
If she took it to canadian tire she probably got an inaccurate test.
A friend of mine took his 98 corolla to the local CT. It failed miserably. I told him they probably ran it in the wrong gear as well and to take it to the dealer. We drove the same day to the local toyota and it passed with flying colors. His car was a 5 speed manual and the tech there said he was 99% sure CT didn't have it in right gear.
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Jul 31st, 2003 02:08 PM #17
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Jul 31st, 2003 02:11 PM #18Indeed an idea.. but what happens if you blow a head gasket, waterpump or something else?????A super, super hot engine is the surest way to get through. Sit in the lot, bring the RPMs up to near the redline, and keep it there. If your engine heat guage get to it's limit, its time to go in and get tested. Otherwise, 5 minutes should do it.
I did this and got 0 for CO in an 86 olds. I've never failed.
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Aug 2nd, 2003 01:55 AM #19Deal Addict
[OP]
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- 3,588
Can anyone confirm if running the car at high rev before entering the air care inspection is a good idea?
:?_______________
My Heatware references
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Aug 2nd, 2003 08:24 AM #20
All these "tricks and tips" are a load of hogwash, IMHO.
I took my 2000 Impala with 90,000k in for a Drive Clean test in April. Out of all the different pollutant categories, it scored zero in all but one category, which it scored a 1 out of a maximum of 150.
The tech at the testing centre said my car was in the 99th percentile of cleanest cars on the road.
What is more startling - The car was parked at work all day, and I simply drove five minutes to the test centre. The car was COLD. No driving around at high speed wasting gas, no fancy high octane gas, no fuel additives, etc.
SO, if your car fails an emission test, there is most definitely something seriously wrong and it should be repaired before permanent damage occurs to internal sensors.
A key component that most people and mechanics overlook is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve, or EGR. The EGR recirculates exhaust gases through the engine a second time to make sure as many pollutants as possible have been burned off. If the EGR is not working properly, you will have a difficult time passing any emission test. A faulty EGR may trigger a "check engine" light, but not always.
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Aug 2nd, 2003 11:25 AM #21
If your car is out of repair, no amount of heat will help you.
As for revving the piss out of your car to get its heat gauge up to the max, that's not such a smart idea, engines have cooling systems for a reason...
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Aug 2nd, 2003 12:57 PM #22You don't need to have a hot engine, you need to have a sufficiently heated catalytic converter. Make sure the car has been driven around for about 20 minutes to ensure the catalytic converter has enough time to heat up.Can anyone confirm if running the car at high rev before entering the air care inspection is a good idea?
:?
My brother was an idiot for driving 5 minutes to the aircare station first thing in the morning. Failed for high CO. I told him you must drive it around more, a cold cat doesn't work at optimum efficiency. He drove it around a bit more and went back. Passed.
From the AirCare website:
High CO Emissions
-Excessively rich air/fuel mixture
-O2 sensor malfunction
-Faulty computer control(s)
-Malfunctioning fuel injection system
-Inoperative/missing catalytic converter
-Carburetor float level maladjusted
-Air cleaner, choke or carburetor
-Defective canister purge system
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Aug 2nd, 2003 04:05 PM #23at least someone knows something about cars...and not guessingYou don't need to have a hot engine, you need to have a sufficiently heated catalytic converter. Make sure the car has been driven around for about 20 minutes to ensure the catalytic converter has enough time to heat up.Can anyone confirm if running the car at high rev before entering the air care inspection is a good idea?
:?
My brother was an idiot for driving 5 minutes to the aircare station first thing in the morning. Failed for high CO. I told him you must drive it around more, a cold cat doesn't work at optimum efficiency. He drove it around a bit more and went back. Passed.
From the AirCare website:
High CO Emissions
-Excessively rich air/fuel mixture
-O2 sensor malfunction
-Faulty computer control(s)
-Malfunctioning fuel injection system
-Inoperative/missing catalytic converter
-Carburetor float level maladjusted
-Air cleaner, choke or carburetor
-Defective canister purge system
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Aug 2nd, 2003 04:25 PM #24Member


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- Feb 5th, 2003
- Location
- London, ON
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Sounds like everyone has their own ritual for doing their e-tests. All I can say is that the combo of oil change/premium gas/new air filter/super hi revs before testing will only help if your car is on the borderline. They won't help a car belching blue smoke pass the test, nor should they.
Good luck.
Zippy
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Aug 2nd, 2003 05:08 PM #25
You could also try the simplest things yourself. A plugged air filter will give inaccurate readings.
A dealership with a reputable service dept is probably your best bet. Typically they do have a bit of responsibility to the customer YMMV.
GSR is right. Today's cats are only effective if they are warm which is why you are now seeing them placed as close to the engine as possible, and things like preheaters._______________
What the H E double hockey sticks have I done now?
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Aug 2nd, 2003 09:15 PM #26Member


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- May 9th, 2003
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
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My story:
I drove a 3 yrs old bmw to have my aircare test. After the test was done and about to pay my money....man, the inspection guy told me i failed in the Carbon monoxide section (from his face, i saw he was shocked too). Anyway, this was ridiculous. I used 92 from Chevron all the time...sometimes 94 if the gas is cheap. I had no idea how that could happen. I didn't do any mods in my car so I was thinking it was just some other problems. I ended up going to an autobody w/ certified aircare repair service. The guy asked me if I had done any mod iw/ the car recently and I said no, and he thought this couldn't happen since my car was very new and I should pass the test. So he taught me to step on the gas padal occasionally just before while waiting in line for the aircare service. I did as he told me and I PASSED the test on the second try 1 HOUR LATER AFER MY FIRST TRY.
First try: Carbon monoxide exceed the standard by 60%. (What???)
Second try: Carbon monoxide lower than the standard by 40% (Uh???)...deviation is about 100% b/w the two tests....incredible
My suggestion is if you car is quite new (The autoshop guy told me car w/ age less than 6-7 yrs usually have no problems w/ the aircare test...unless sth really went wrong w/ ur car), ....in this case ur friend car is quite new (99 models) then I think you can did what I did before. I think it is resonable to say if ur car is in traffic jam, carbon monoxide and others may not circulate and wel in ur car and it may get stuck in the car...so when doing the aircare test, all those carbon monoxide will be emiited...and ended up failing u the test.
Just want to save you some money...if possible.
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Nov 30th, 2005 02:18 PM #27Newbie
- Join Date
- Jun 17th, 2003
- Location
- GTA
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- 27
My check engine light was on, and the mechanic changed solenoid in the front, after driving 600km, the light came back again. This time, he told me that it was the solenoid near the gas tank is broken. In the meanwhile, I failed emission test on CO% of ASM2525 Test. CO% limit 0.37, CO% Reading is 0.74.
Originally Posted by MacGyver
1. can anybody tell whether it is badly failed or it is close to pass?
2. I've sold my car, should I have to replace O2 sensor or Gas Solenoid? or both?
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Nov 30th, 2005 03:10 PM #28
1) Cut the tailpipe somewhere underneath the car
2) Split the exhaust and weld on a 2nd muffler that doesn't stick out the back of your car - since the guy just has the hose hooked to the 1st muffler, you've just cut your emissions by half!
Last edited by cOmAtOaSt; Nov 30th, 2005 at 03:13 PM.
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Nov 30th, 2005 10:22 PM #29
These pollution tests have been added to existing roadworthyness tests in Europe several years ago already.
In the UK the "M.O.T." is a yearly test for all road vehicles. You can fail with just a slightly cracked windscreen. Pollution levels were introduced several years ago.
France has a two yearly test which is not as strict, but when it came into action about 10 years ago a LOT of cars got taken off the road... The French government made it easier to accept by offering new car buyers a discount if they scrapped a car that was more than 10 years old when they got their new one.
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Nov 30th, 2005 10:32 PM #30
Folks, this thread is 2 years old
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