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Anyone need Plumbing help or advice

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  • Nov 18th, 2017 1:01 pm
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Member
Dec 25, 2010
255 posts
22 upvotes
Toronto
I'm also hoping for some advice on picking out a new shower valve.

It's for a new installation in my basement bathroom renovation. It's going in a shower stall with no tub.

My wife is specifically looking for a faucet that has independent control of volume and temperature. I'd prefer to see a single lever design instead of two. I seem to remember faucets that would rotate for temp control and tilt for volume.

I've seen the Delta 17 series faucets but it looks like they have two levers.

Do the big box stores carry anything like that? I had "help" picking out a faucet and when I got it home it doesn't actually have volume control.

edit
Looks like the Moentrol valves from Moen claim they can do what I'm looking for. Anyone have experience with these valves and trim kits?
Jr. Member
Aug 16, 2013
110 posts
26 upvotes
MARKHAM
Need some plumbing advice! Water heats up very slowly upstairs on 2nd floor faucets...and doesn't seem to be water tank issue..what else can I do? Also water pressure from showers upstairs seems low as well... :(
Sr. Member
Dec 28, 2010
909 posts
55 upvotes
Ajax
My water shutoff valve for the outdoor bibs was missing a bleeder cap. Bought some at Canadian Tire and they leak from the little hole in the cap when water valve is opened.

I installed the black gasket that it came with and still leaks.

Is there a proper way of installing this??

I compared it to my other bleeder cap that I already had and it seems like the gasket in that one sits lower than the little hole on the cap. The Canadian tire ones the hole is near the bottom of the cap and the gasket sites higher than it.
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Oct 15, 2007
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D_J_M wrote:
Oct 15th, 2017 11:21 pm
I'm also hoping for some advice on picking out a new shower valve.

It's for a new installation in my basement bathroom renovation. It's going in a shower stall with no tub.

My wife is specifically looking for a faucet that has independent control of volume and temperature. I'd prefer to see a single lever design instead of two. I seem to remember faucets that would rotate for temp control and tilt for volume.

I've seen the Delta 17 series faucets but it looks like they have two levers.

Do the big box stores carry anything like that? I had "help" picking out a faucet and when I got it home it doesn't actually have volume control.

edit
Looks like the Moentrol valves from Moen claim they can do what I'm looking for. Anyone have experience with these valves and trim kits?
go with Riobel. You wont be dissapointed
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Veritate wrote:
Oct 16th, 2017 11:36 am
Need some plumbing advice! Water heats up very slowly upstairs on 2nd floor faucets...and doesn't seem to be water tank issue..what else can I do? Also water pressure from showers upstairs seems low as well... :(
theres nothing you can do short of running a recirculation line. in a finished home this would involve opening walls/ceilings etc.
otherwise you have to live with waiting for the water in the pipes to warm up
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Bellotts wrote:
Oct 21st, 2017 7:50 pm
My water shutoff valve for the outdoor bibs was missing a bleeder cap. Bought some at Canadian Tire and they leak from the little hole in the cap when water valve is opened.

I installed the black gasket that it came with and still leaks.

Is there a proper way of installing this??

I compared it to my other bleeder cap that I already had and it seems like the gasket in that one sits lower than the little hole on the cap. The Canadian tire ones the hole is near the bottom of the cap and the gasket sites higher than it.
you answered your own question. the bleeder cap isnt tightening enough to compress the gasket. either find a shallower cap that fits, or try adding a second or thicker washer
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Newbie
Mar 22, 2011
6 posts
1 upvote
Hamilton, ON
I used Drano crystals on my bathtub drain (as I've done many times... I live with 3 girls) but this time, these black things came up. Wondering if anyone knows what I'm looking at?
20171026_220216.jpg
20171026_220203.jpg
20171026_220202.jpg
Thank you.
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Oct 22, 2002
1625 posts
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danpostma wrote:
Oct 27th, 2017 1:09 am
I used Drano crystals on my bathtub drain (as I've done many times... I live with 3 girls) but this time, these black things came up. Wondering if anyone knows what I'm looking at?
Could be either the gasket from your drain or overflow assembly...Draino is pretty rough on certain types of rubber.

Image
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Sep 20, 2015
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The cows are everywh…
Background:

We bought our (first) house a couple of years ago, just last year we ran into an issue with our tiled standing in shower in our master bathroom. Basically we had a leak which was seen in the (kitchen) ceiling below.
We called Mr. Rooter who quoted us quite a bit to reinstall a membrane. Now this would include breaking the floor tiles and at least a foot up each wall to installing membrane and all, then re-tiling.

I ended up doing a bit more research which led me to simply removing old caulking, then re caulking, and resealing the grout. So far so good, however I still have this fear in me that the leak could happen anytime since there is definitely an issue with the membrane.
I've confirmed that there are no leaking pipes. I opened up the kitchen ceiling and took numerous tests.

Questions:

We plan to live in our house for quite a long time. It has all the space we need for a young growing family. We are thinking about installing a white ceramic base instead of keeping the tiles at the base. Is this a smarter option to prevent future potential leaks? Will the membrane still need to be replaced? What would should be the costs expected for this sort of reno?

Thanks in advanced. Our current financial burden is getting our roof replaced so this has been placed in the back of my mind for a while until I saw this thread.
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Waterproof the entire shower with Shluter or the like.
Those fibreglass bases are garbage, and cheap looking
Boomhauerr wrote:
Oct 27th, 2017 11:19 am
Background:

We bought our (first) house a couple of years ago, just last year we ran into an issue with our tiled standing in shower in our master bathroom. Basically we had a leak which was seen in the (kitchen) ceiling below.
We called Mr. Rooter who quoted us quite a bit to reinstall a membrane. Now this would include breaking the floor tiles and at least a foot up each wall to installing membrane and all, then re-tiling.

I ended up doing a bit more research which led me to simply removing old caulking, then re caulking, and resealing the grout. So far so good, however I still have this fear in me that the leak could happen anytime since there is definitely an issue with the membrane.
I've confirmed that there are no leaking pipes. I opened up the kitchen ceiling and took numerous tests.

Questions:

We plan to live in our house for quite a long time. It has all the space we need for a young growing family. We are thinking about installing a white ceramic base instead of keeping the tiles at the base. Is this a smarter option to prevent future potential leaks? Will the membrane still need to be replaced? What would should be the costs expected for this sort of reno?

Thanks in advanced. Our current financial burden is getting our roof replaced so this has been placed in the back of my mind for a while until I saw this thread.
Last edited by Red_Army on Oct 27th, 2017 6:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Oct 15, 2007
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Looks like the rubber from your plug.
Drano is a terrible product for the environment and does more harm than good most of the time.
You’re better off removing the stopper and pulling the hair out yourself than wasting money on drano.
More often then not hair stuck in the shoe strainer tee below the stopper is the cause of a slow draining tub
danpostma wrote:
Oct 27th, 2017 1:09 am
I used Drano crystals on my bathtub drain (as I've done many times... I live with 3 girls) but this time, these black things came up. Wondering if anyone knows what I'm looking at?
20171026_220216.jpg
20171026_220203.jpg
20171026_220202.jpg

Thank you.
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Dec 12, 2006
4081 posts
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Barrys Bay
Not sure how to fix this issue, sometimes have sewer smell come up pipe for laundry washer machine.

What we have is 2 drain pipe side by side and 2nd one connects to 1st with a 45 degree connection then goes to a P trap----- No idea why 2nd pipe!! Washer machine hose goes on either pipe. There is a utility sink down with its own P trap and goes to venting pipe before sewer.

From what I have read that sometimes the feed from washer machines can be too quick for a P trap to trap water and it will sometimes cause it leave trap partially filled with water allowing back flow of gases up pipes.

So should I remove 2nd pipe for draining washer? Was thinking putting in wall vent on that pipe but since washer hose doesn't make 100% seal on pipe it would also allow back gases,
Or could I make P-Trap longer 1 foot verses 6 inches to help make sure water is not fast flowed and empting?

Or other suggestions welcome, as complete newbie to plumbing.
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theguyz wrote:
Oct 27th, 2017 8:58 pm
Not sure how to fix this issue, sometimes have sewer smell come up pipe for laundry washer machine.

What we have is 2 drain pipe side by side and 2nd one connects to 1st with a 45 degree connection then goes to a P trap----- No idea why 2nd pipe!! Washer machine hose goes on either pipe. There is a utility sink down with its own P trap and goes to venting pipe before sewer.

From what I have read that sometimes the feed from washer machines can be too quick for a P trap to trap water and it will sometimes cause it leave trap partially filled with water allowing back flow of gases up pipes.

So should I remove 2nd pipe for draining washer? Was thinking putting in wall vent on that pipe but since washer hose doesn't make 100% seal on pipe it would also allow back gases,
Or could I make P-Trap longer 1 foot verses 6 inches to help make sure water is not fast flowed and empting?

Or other suggestions welcome, as complete newbie to plumbing.
What you have is called a stand pipe, and can be piped directly with its own trap and vent, or can be combined with a laundry sinks trap/vent. The vertical section of a stand pipe must be 600mm.

Recent codes also state that the fixture drain must be 2”, whereas it was acceptable to use 1 1/2” prior to the code change.

What you have read about the water draining too fast for the trap to maintain its seal is hokum if the drain is piped and vented properly
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Jan 27, 2014
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Mississauga
Can anyone recommend me a good plumber that isn't too expensive in Mississauga?
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May 15, 2016
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How much is it to add two additional gas lines on the main floor of a house with an unfinished basement? I already have a gas line to the backyard for the bbq which I don't use. Thanks.

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