Home & Garden

Anyone need Plumbing help or advice

  • Last Updated:
  • Nov 18th, 2017 1:01 pm
Tags:
None
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
2701 posts
174 upvotes
vivibaby wrote:
Oct 28th, 2017 2:28 am
How much is it to add two additional gas lines on the main floor of a house with an unfinished basement? I already have a gas line to the backyard for the bbq which I don't use. Thanks.
About 3 mil
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Expert
Aug 2, 2004
25391 posts
2751 upvotes
East Gwillimbury
vivibaby wrote:
Oct 28th, 2017 2:28 am
How much is it to add two additional gas lines on the main floor of a house with an unfinished basement? I already have a gas line to the backyard for the bbq which I don't use. Thanks.
Depending on where you live, it’s about $300 per line and that includes 10 - 20 ft of piping. You pay extra for each additional foot.

Your asking a gas question on a plumbing topic. They’re not related.
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
2701 posts
174 upvotes
vivibaby wrote:
Oct 28th, 2017 8:41 am
Dou-che, dou-che.
there are too many variables involved to price something like that over the internet. also it has nothing to do with plumbing

Also, im going to stress again, that this thread is for plumbing related help. Questions about what things will/can cost to have done will not be answered
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
User avatar
Mar 28, 2005
3027 posts
172 upvotes
Ontario / Quebec
I have an Eljer corner toilet in one of the bathrooms.

Problem was what apparently is called a "ghost flush".

Every once in a while the toilet fills for about 5 seconds.

I suspected it's the flapper not sealing completely so a little water runs into the bowl until it triggers the float to refill the tank.
I confirmed that by putting a bit of food colouring in the tank whch I could see then in the bowl after a while.

So I purchased a Fluidmaster replacement flapper but that didn't solve the problem - if anything it seems to make things worse - ie "ghost flushes" more often.

I then cleaned the rim of the opening the flapper is supposed to seal thinking there might be some calcium on that.
That didn't make any difference - there is no deposit there that I can see or feel.

So now what?

One thing I noticed, and this is my question, does one possibly need a special flapper for this toilet rather than the standard universal one found in big box stores?
What part of the flapper is actually supposed to provide the seal?
Is it just the flat part of the flapper against the rim of the outlet?

The flapper has a cone shaped section that fits inside the outlet to the bowl, but that cone is so much bigger than the outlet opening, it does't seem to do anything.
Is that part of what should provide the seal?
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
2701 posts
174 upvotes
krs wrote:
Oct 28th, 2017 7:44 pm
I have an Eljer corner toilet in one of the bathrooms.

Problem was what apparently is called a "ghost flush".

Every once in a while the toilet fills for about 5 seconds.

I suspected it's the flapper not sealing completely so a little water runs into the bowl until it triggers the float to refill the tank.
I confirmed that by putting a bit of food colouring in the tank whch I could see then in the bowl after a while.

So I purchased a Fluidmaster replacement flapper but that didn't solve the problem - if anything it seems to make things worse - ie "ghost flushes" more often.

I then cleaned the rim of the opening the flapper is supposed to seal thinking there might be some calcium on that.
That didn't make any difference - there is no deposit there that I can see or feel.

So now what?

One thing I noticed, and this is my question, does one possibly need a special flapper for this toilet rather than the standard universal one found in big box stores?
What part of the flapper is actually supposed to provide the seal?
Is it just the flat part of the flapper against the rim of the outlet?

The flapper has a cone shaped section that fits inside the outlet to the bowl, but that cone is so much bigger than the outlet opening, it does't seem to do anything.
Is that part of what should provide the seal?
those fluidmaster flappers are junk.
by the Hornet made by Master plumber (its yellow, and made of silicone)

the flate edge is what provides the seal, the cone design determines how long the flapper stays open before closing onto the flush valve
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
User avatar
Mar 28, 2005
3027 posts
172 upvotes
Ontario / Quebec
Red_Army wrote:
Oct 28th, 2017 7:47 pm
those fluidmaster flappers are junk.
by the Hornet made by Master plumber (its yellow, and made of silicone)

the flate edge is what provides the seal, the cone design determines how long the flapper stays open before closing onto the flush valve
Thanks for the quick reply.

I see four yellow flappers on the Master Plumber website:
http://www.masterplumber.ca/?s=flapper

Does it matter which one I get?
And should I get a 3-inch one rather than the more standard 2-inch version?
Deal Addict
Dec 19, 2009
2494 posts
876 upvotes
krs wrote:
Oct 29th, 2017 11:07 am
Thanks for the quick reply.

I see four yellow flappers on the Master Plumber website:
http://www.masterplumber.ca/?s=flapper

Does it matter which one I get?
And should I get a 3-inch one rather than the more standard 2-inch version?
There's four yellow flappers but only one says "Hornet".
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
2701 posts
174 upvotes
krs wrote:
Oct 29th, 2017 11:07 am
Thanks for the quick reply.

I see four yellow flappers on the Master Plumber website:
http://www.masterplumber.ca/?s=flapper

Does it matter which one I get?
And should I get a 3-inch one rather than the more standard 2-inch version?
a 3" flapper will not replace a 2". they are for different flush towers.
if your flush tower has the clip ears on the overflow tube then all you need is this one
http://www.masterplumber.ca/product/hor ... r-flapper/
pootza wrote:
Oct 29th, 2017 12:34 pm
There's four yellow flappers but only one says "Hornet".
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jan 6, 2002
4912 posts
4851 upvotes
Toronto
Trying to understand how the draining in my basement was done "wrong" by a previous owner.

* When laundry/sink drains, I hear splashing (not gurgling) from the main floor drain
* I'm not having any problems with sewer gases or backup.

I assume that a previous owner broke up basement floor and ran very shallow drain pipes just under the surface, draining into the main floor drain down pipe, with no sumps or traps under floor level.

* This is contrary to current code? I assume so
* Risk is only that the laundry draining could flood up from the floor drain if the floor or main drain backs up
* Not really anything I can do about the splashing sound I assume

As long as the main/floor drain remains clear, there shouldn't be any issue with draining, venting, or sewer gas from this situation, right?
I've got a pretty good friend who's seen me at my worst.
He don't care if I'm a blessing or a curse,
But he always shows up when the chips are down.
That's the kind of friend I like to be around.
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
2701 posts
174 upvotes
hoob wrote:
Oct 29th, 2017 1:22 pm
* Risk is only that the laundry draining could flood up from the floor drain if the floor or main drain backs up


As long as the main/floor drain remains clear, there shouldn't be any issue with draining, venting, or sewer gas from this situation, right?
This would be the case regardless of where your laundry drain is tied in depending on where the clog would be

It’s not necessarily illegal, as it would be considered indirect drainage, and laundry plumbing appliances are allowed to be indirectly connected. Now, the code book states “appliances”. It can be interpreted as grey area if the appliance drains into a sink. I definitely wouldn’t hook it up that way, or pass it if I were inspecting it. The only real cut and dry code violation would be that there is no air break present.

I’m surprised you’re not complaining about soap suds coming up from the floor drain

Whether or not the laundry drain is properly vented is another story in itself
Last edited by Red_Army on Oct 29th, 2017 1:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jan 6, 2002
4912 posts
4851 upvotes
Toronto
Red_Army wrote:
Oct 29th, 2017 1:45 pm
This would be the case regardless of where your laundry drain is tied in depending on where the clog would be

It’s not necessarily illegal, as it would be considered indirect drainage, the only real code violation would be that there is no air break present.

I’m surprised you’re not complaining about soap suds coming up from the floor drain

Whether or not the laundry drain is properly vented is another story in itself
Thanks for the feedback, I won't worry too much about it then.. At least I know the floor drain won't ever dry out!

Laundry drain I vented with a cheater when I redid the above-floor drain pipes since there wasn't anything before, just an S trap and only 1.5" not 2" (oddly enough the ABS into the floor and presumably under, was 2" already but sized down above floor to 1.5"..)

No issues with suds from the floor drain even with the old non-HE washer/detergent.
I've got a pretty good friend who's seen me at my worst.
He don't care if I'm a blessing or a curse,
But he always shows up when the chips are down.
That's the kind of friend I like to be around.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Mar 28, 2005
3027 posts
172 upvotes
Ontario / Quebec
Red_Army wrote:
Oct 29th, 2017 12:37 pm
a 3" flapper will not replace a 2". they are for different flush towers.
if your flush tower has the clip ears on the overflow tube then all you need is this one
http://www.masterplumber.ca/product/hor ... r-flapper/

Thanks for the advice, I'll go buy one.

Hopefully that solves the problem.
Deal Addict
Mar 17, 2004
4598 posts
152 upvotes
Hey man. Really appreciate you continuing to answer this thread after so many years. So for some reason the hot water in my kitchen faucet is very low pressure. It doesn't really make sense since the hot water heater is less than 10 feet away from it below. It is the faucet that is closest to the hot water heater. All the other faucets and fixtures in the house have no problem delivering hot water. I thought it might be the supply lines under the sink or the faucet but on the weekend I changed both of them and it hasn't helped. Any ideas? Could the copper pipe between the hot water heater and kitchen be a bit clogged with sediment or something? You think I should buy a large pipecleaning brush type of thing and try and clean it out?
Newbie
Mar 22, 2011
6 posts
1 upvote
Hamilton, ON
Red_Army wrote:
Oct 27th, 2017 6:45 pm
Looks like the rubber from your plug.
Drano is a terrible product for the environment and does more harm than good most of the time.
You’re better off removing the stopper and pulling the hair out yourself than wasting money on drano.
More often then not hair stuck in the shoe strainer tee below the stopper is the cause of a slow draining tub
Thanks, Red_Army, for all your advice in this long thread.

I used to be able to get the drain stopper removed, but now either I've lost my mind and forgotten how to do it, or I can't get it off no matter what I try. I've tried using pliers, I've looked for little screws I'm supposed to remove, etc etc. From the pics I posted below are you able to tell me how to remove that stopper? Thank you!!

Top

Thread Information

There is currently 1 user viewing this thread. (0 members and 1 guest)