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Anyone need Plumbing help or advice

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  • Nov 18th, 2017 1:01 pm
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Deal Addict
May 11, 2003
2331 posts
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@Red_Army:

Would appreciate your advice...

I've got a leaking second floor toilet. There was no water on the bathroom floor, instead is leaked downward and ruined my ceiling. I changed the wax ring, but to no avail. It is a tight spot, but I can see water coming down from the floorboards when the toilet is flushed.

What could it be?

I'm assuming that the down-drain pipe is cracked, near the flange or something along those lines, but I can't really tell for sure. The house is probably 50 years old now, and the toilet was replaced about 10-12 years ago.
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Oct 15, 2007
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e-man wrote:
Oct 30th, 2017 2:43 pm
@Red_Army:

Would appreciate your advice...

I've got a leaking second floor toilet. There was no water on the bathroom floor, instead is leaked downward and ruined my ceiling. I changed the wax ring, but to no avail. It is a tight spot, but I can see water coming down from the floorboards when the toilet is flushed.

What could it be?

I'm assuming that the down-drain pipe is cracked, near the flange or something along those lines, but I can't really tell for sure. The house is probably 50 years old now, and the toilet was replaced about 10-12 years ago.
Did you feel the wax compress when you installed it? My guess is that the flange is lower than the floor and you didn’t put a high enough gasket.
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Oni-kun wrote:
Oct 30th, 2017 10:02 am
Hey man. Really appreciate you continuing to answer this thread after so many years. So for some reason the hot water in my kitchen faucet is very low pressure. It doesn't really make sense since the hot water heater is less than 10 feet away from it below. It is the faucet that is closest to the hot water heater. All the other faucets and fixtures in the house have no problem delivering hot water. I thought it might be the supply lines under the sink or the faucet but on the weekend I changed both of them and it hasn't helped. Any ideas? Could the copper pipe between the hot water heater and kitchen be a bit clogged with sediment or something? You think I should buy a large pipecleaning brush type of thing and try and clean it out?
It’s probably the cartridge or shut off valve (if there is one present)

danpostma wrote:
Oct 30th, 2017 2:36 pm
Thanks, Red_Army, for all your advice in this long thread.

I used to be able to get the drain stopper removed, but now either I've lost my mind and forgotten how to do it, or I can't get it off no matter what I try. I've tried using pliers, I've looked for little screws I'm supposed to remove, etc etc. From the pics I posted below are you able to tell me how to remove that stopper? Thank you!!
Hold on to the large circular part keeping it in place while unthreading the smaller part on the top counterclockwise until it comes off. There will be a flathead screw that will be exposed when you do this which will remove it.

The only other scenario is that the whole piece threads out OR. There is a small screw on the stem beneath the stopper that removes the top
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
May 11, 2003
2331 posts
249 upvotes
Red_Army wrote:
Oct 30th, 2017 7:44 pm
Did you feel the wax compress when you installed it? My guess is that the flange is lower than the floor and you didn’t put a high enough gasket.
You know, when I put the wax ring on, I remember thinking why isn't it compressing? I would say it didn't compress much or not at all. I also used the super tall wax ring too.

The flange is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the floor (hard to measure). I was thinking I probably need a flange extension of some sort, unless you have another suggestion?

BTW, thanks for your help thus far.
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e-man wrote:
Oct 30th, 2017 11:21 pm
You know, when I put the wax ring on, I remember thinking why isn't it compressing? I would say it didn't compress much or not at all. I also used the super tall wax ring too.

The flange is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the floor (hard to measure). I was thinking I probably need a flange extension of some sort, unless you have another suggestion?

BTW, thanks for your help thus far.
Double up the gasket, don’t bother with a flange extension
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
May 11, 2003
2331 posts
249 upvotes
Red_Army wrote:
Oct 31st, 2017 8:18 pm
Double up the gasket, don’t bother with a flange extension
Okay. I will give it a try this weekend. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Sr. Member
May 6, 2013
527 posts
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Toronto
Question as a new home owner: Our kitchen sink smells bad and it stinks up the whole floor because of it. We have tried draino and the baking soda/vinegar trick with marginal success. Problem is, it doesnt seem like there is a p trap under the sink in order to cleanout or drain (is this even code on a 3 year old house?!!?) We are lost and looking for some advice!
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Dec 25, 2010
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Toronto
Red_Army wrote:
Oct 31st, 2017 8:18 pm
Double up the gasket, don’t bother with a flange extension
I've got a similar situation where my toilet flange is below the finished floor level. I was about to install one of those flange extension kits with the plastic rings.

Curious what you mean by this. Are you saying to use two of the rubber gaskets in lieu of the wax ring?
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Oct 15, 2007
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RSXPrem wrote:
Nov 2nd, 2017 11:49 am
Question as a new home owner: Our kitchen sink smells bad and it stinks up the whole floor because of it. We have tried draino and the baking soda/vinegar trick with marginal success. Problem is, it doesnt seem like there is a p trap under the sink in order to cleanout or drain (is this even code on a 3 year old house?!!?) We are lost and looking for some advice!
It’s probably an island sink then where the trap is in the floor
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Sr. Member
May 6, 2013
527 posts
93 upvotes
Toronto
Red_Army wrote:
Nov 2nd, 2017 2:02 pm
It’s probably an island sink then where the trap is in the floor
Thank you it is a breakfast bar, I was just surprised as there is lots of room under the sink for a trap. I will see if I can access the trap from above.
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Oct 15, 2007
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RSXPrem wrote:
Nov 2nd, 2017 2:17 pm
Thank you it is a breakfast bar, I was just surprised as there is lots of room under the sink for a trap. I will see if I can access the trap from above.
You won’t be able to unless you have access from underneath. it will be encased in the floor. Think of it like a bathtub or shower drain.

What is recently within a few years required by code for an island kitchen sink is a clean out upstream and downstream of the trap
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Sr. Member
May 6, 2013
527 posts
93 upvotes
Toronto
Red_Army wrote:
Nov 2nd, 2017 4:03 pm
You won’t be able to unless you have access from underneath. it will be encased in the floor. Think of it like a bathtub or shower drain.

What is recently within a few years required by code for an island kitchen sink is a clean out upstream and downstream of the trap
Thank you! Seems like there is an upstream clean out that I will try to take off and clean today. Appreciate the responses.
Newbie
May 24, 2012
28 posts
7 upvotes
Toronto
My condo townhouse (Located at sheppard and yonge; the 5 everson units)has kitec plumbing. Any suggestions on who I should use to replace it?
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Oct 15, 2007
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RSXPrem wrote:
Nov 3rd, 2017 8:40 am
Thank you! Seems like there is an upstream clean out that I will try to take off and clean today. Appreciate the responses.
It’s meant for snaking the drain. There isn’t much you can clean from there
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Newbie
Jul 31, 2017
35 posts
13 upvotes
Toronto
Thanks to miscommunication and a general failure of common sense, I need to move the soil stack (A) away from the wall another 4"
Plumbing.jpg
I don't want to cut back any further than necessary, so is there any code that says I can't put an elbow (Probably a 22.5) on section B which will shift the bottom out to where it needs to be. My concern is anything relating to the number of elbows before it hits the main down stack?

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