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Anyone need Plumbing help or advice

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  • Jan 15th, 2018 2:02 pm
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Member
Sep 12, 2012
378 posts
84 upvotes
Toronto/Markham
I need to change a faucet in my bathroom but the space under the sink is too tight to fit a wrench to remove the old faucet. I attempted to use a basin wrench but that won't even fit. Are there any other types of wrenches that can be used to fit in really tight spaces?
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Jun 8, 2001
5980 posts
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Ottawa
Guys, I am trying to replace my 3 toilets that came with the house. There seems to be a slow drip in each and I've spent enough time and money trying to replace elements of the toilets.

We have 3 in total:
- 1 kids use in extra bathroom on top floor
-1 we use in master bedroom on top floor
- 1 on the main floor

1) Our home in an energy star home and looking for recommendations on toilets
2) Saw this one on costco and thinking of putting this in the master bedroom: https://www.costco.ca/Brondell-LumaWarm ... 26846.html
3) Is installation something I can do, or should I get someone to do the install?
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Feb 8, 2014
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skanji wrote:
Jan 1st, 2018 5:21 pm
Guys, I am trying to replace my 3 toilets that came with the house. There seems to be a slow drip in each and I've spent enough time and money trying to replace elements of the toilets.

We have 3 in total:
- 1 kids use in extra bathroom on top floor
-1 we use in master bedroom on top floor
- 1 on the main floor

1) Our home in an energy star home and looking for recommendations on toilets
2) Saw this one on costco and thinking of putting this in the master bedroom: https://www.costco.ca/Brondell-LumaWarm ... 26846.html
3) Is installation something I can do, or should I get someone to do the install?
I don't know what the energy star requirements are for toilets now but you can use any from the most to least efficient, it will only show up in water cost (and flushing performance more water is not always better but less water can suck, check reviews).
You can do the install yourself in a few minutes but you need to be able to lift the toilet and should have a second person to guide you to the toggle bolts. One piece toilets are much heavier to install, something to bear in mind.
Lies, damned lies, statistics and alternative facts
Deal Fanatic
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Jun 8, 2001
5980 posts
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Ottawa
Quentin5 wrote:
Jan 2nd, 2018 6:29 am
I don't know what the energy star requirements are for toilets now but you can use any from the most to least efficient, it will only show up in water cost (and flushing performance more water is not always better but less water can suck, check reviews).
You can do the install yourself in a few minutes but you need to be able to lift the toilet and should have a second person to guide you to the toggle bolts. One piece toilets are much heavier to install, something to bear in mind.
Thanks so much. All I know is I'm sick of the current 10 year old toilets we have that don't flush well, pressure wise, and am looking to replace at least 2 of the toilets.

Is there a make and model that you all recommend? How's that one at costco with the heated seat?
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Feb 8, 2014
13953 posts
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skanji wrote:
Jan 2nd, 2018 11:32 am
Thanks so much. All I know is I'm sick of the current 10 year old toilets we have that don't flush well, pressure wise, and am looking to replace at least 2 of the toilets.

Is there a make and model that you all recommend? How's that one at costco with the heated seat?
I don't know about the models your looking at, but you can check MAP performance and reviews online. Some places test toilets (if you have a consumer reports subscription they also probably do, some libraries also provide online access) and costco.com often carries the same models as the Canadian Costco and may have reviews.
Lies, damned lies, statistics and alternative facts
Sr. Member
Sep 13, 2008
670 posts
92 upvotes
Toronto
redwings_patriots wrote:
Jan 3rd, 2018 11:12 pm
It's pretty dry in my house right now....ecobee indicates about 20% humidity. The previous home owner installed an Aprilaire 600 whole home bypass humidifier.

I bought a new filter to insert into the water panel. I tried to give it a go today, but there seemed to be no water flowing to the humidifier. So I googled for troubleshooting.

First thing that popped up was to open water line to the humidifier. That's what I did, but then water started leaking out of the hose, feeding into the humidifier. Turns out the metal fastener has rusted and has corroded the hose.

Now I cannot turn off the water that flows to the humidifier. I've pinched the hose and put an elastic around it to stop it from leaking for now. What should I do now? who do I call? a plumber or HVAC person? Is this temporary solution good enough for a couple of days? Can I go to work tomorrow?


Water valve to turn on/off water to humidifier

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Temporary solution

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Where the hose is connected to

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I originally posted this in HVAC thread, but it's probably more of a plumbing issue.

Based on some responses in that thread, I'm thinking of using PEX (Sharkbite) to remedy the issue. I'm thinking of cutting the horizontal pipe and replace the 90 degree elbow, then connect copper pipe into the 90 degree elbow and add a Tee stop at the bottom of the copper pipe.

instead of a 90 degree elbow, would a braided connector be okay?

thanks in advance!

For those who follow the HVAC and Plumbing threads, I apologize for the duplication.
Sr. Member
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Oct 24, 2008
707 posts
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Probably a dumb question, but I just want to be sure.
Currently I am finishing my basement and am getting ready to close up the walls. Our basement has a drain rough in along one of the walls which will be boxed in. At present time, we have no intention of putting anything there, but we think perhaps one day we will install some sort of galley wet bar where the rough in is.

So my question is, if we eventually decide to run water to that location, what should I be putting in before I close up the walls?
Obviously water lines (not hooked up to anything) will be needed, but I don't even know what size/type I should be getting. Besides the water lines, is there anything else I should be putting in?

Would something like this work? is 1/2" appropriate for a sink?
https://www.lowes.ca/tubing-hoses/water ... chTerm=pex
Sr. Member
Sep 13, 2008
670 posts
92 upvotes
Toronto
redwings_patriots wrote:
Jan 4th, 2018 11:23 am
I originally posted this in HVAC thread, but it's probably more of a plumbing issue.

Based on some responses in that thread, I'm thinking of using PEX (Sharkbite) to remedy the issue. I'm thinking of cutting the horizontal pipe and replace the 90 degree elbow, then connect copper pipe into the 90 degree elbow and add a Tee stop at the bottom of the copper pipe.

instead of a 90 degree elbow, would a braided connector be okay?

thanks in advance!

For those who follow the HVAC and Plumbing threads, I apologize for the duplication.
A friend just recommended that I simply replace the saddle valve with another self piercing saddle valve - to tap into the other side of the pipe. I would need to put putty on the existing hole before piercing the other side. Any thoughts?

Just spoke to a plumber on the phone. Said $70 per hour plus approx $35 in material to replace saddle valve with proper Tee stop with hose. Said should take less than an hour. Thoughts?
Last edited by redwings_patriots on Jan 4th, 2018 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Member
User avatar
Oct 6, 2003
205 posts
Toronto
Hey all,

The cold water supply tap to my washer leaks (quite a lot) out of the handle (stem?) when it's turned on. Can I fix it or does it need to be replaced?

My washer/water heater died in December and needed replacing. I turned off the cold/hot taps to the washer and they were closed for about 2 weeks while I reno'd the utility closet where they all sit (new tile and paint, didn't touch any plumbing). After receiving the new washer/dryer and trying to hook up the water connections again, opening the cold water tap results in a fairly significant leak out of the handle.

I couldn't identify the kind of tap (internal mechanism) and whether its possible to maybe just replace a packing washer to fix it. Any advice or does this require a plumber in?

c342a21a-93b1-45cc-ae67-b00d4c31b1c0.jpg

Thanks in advance
Sr. Member
Sep 13, 2008
670 posts
92 upvotes
Toronto
I've booked an appointment with A&Y Plumbing for tomorrow. http://www.ayplumbing.ca/

They quoted over the phone $70 per hour plus materials. They said to replace the saddle valve, it should take no more than an hour. They will replace the saddle valve with a tee valve, which is approximately $35. We briefly spoke about replacing the hose to the humidifier. All in all, this is an acceptable price?

Should I ask for ID and proof of certification?

thanks!
Newbie
Jul 16, 2013
33 posts
1 upvote
Toronto
Hi,

Our kitchen faucet -- when I turn the handle to cold water, I get normal amount of pressure. But when I turn the handle to hot water, the pressure is so much less. In fact, seems less than even yesterday. We took apart and replaced the faucet as we thought that was the problem but the problem continues. The braided supply line is brand new as it just came with the faucet.

On occasion, there's minor leaking where the hot water pipe is. Wondering what else we can do to try and fix ourselves.

Thanks
Member
Nov 19, 2005
287 posts
3 upvotes
Hi,

I am experiencing a sewer type smell around my front loading washer in the basement. I was not able to directly pinpoint the smell or always repeat the condition that causes the smell and ended up calling a plumber to take a look and he noted that the issue was not the drainage in the house.

I don't smell anything when I try to identify the smell around the front opening of the washer and the waste water that is being released from the machine is running clear with no smell. I have also used the hot water/vinegar/baking soda cycle in the machine but the smell occasionally persists.

Has anyone experience something similar?
Newbie
Apr 6, 2015
92 posts
47 upvotes
SW Ontario
Getting very low pressure on cold side ,after changing ceramic cartridge and the stop valve ,what else to do ,hot side is good.

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Deal Fanatic
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Oct 19, 2008
5124 posts
988 upvotes
Whitby
velleso wrote:
Jan 9th, 2018 11:59 pm
The braided supply line is brand new as it just came with the faucet.

On occasion, there's minor leaking where the hot water pipe is. Wondering what else we can do to try and fix ourselves.
Was the braided line twisted during install? Seen DIY do that, the whole braided line twisting instead of the coupling nut turning freely. That can create a restriction on the line and weaken the line so it bursts in the future.
What is leaking "on occasion"?
Deal Addict
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Dec 10, 2008
3589 posts
306 upvotes
St. John's
What should I do here? I'm planning to stud out this wall and have someone redo the plumbing that's right up against the concrete.

Is there anything I should be asking a plumber to do in addition to just re-running a few lines?

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