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Anyone need Plumbing help or advice

  • Last Updated:
  • Nov 26th, 2019 6:43 pm
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Newbie
Jan 19, 2016
49 posts
4 upvotes
Calgary, AB
pardnme wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 11:45 am
When i lived in a condo....i used to turn on teh cold...it was burning hot for so long...had to let it run for a long time just to fill the dog's bowl with cold water...

spoke to management and they had changed the setting of something (not sure of terminology...boiler/main???) because other units weren't getting enough hot water...
Did they fix it for you? Or did they just tell you that's just the way that is..
Deal Addict
Feb 22, 2007
1875 posts
170 upvotes
Mississauga
okay I've come across my final drawing:

i'm going the AAV/Cheater route....but when @Red_Army said to stick it high up into the wall and put an air grill/access panel...i said no way am I having that in the powder room wall...

but now my brain worked a little bit better...and I will go up as high as I can in the wall...but cut an access panel in the kitchen cabinet above the sink! this way the powder room drywall will be clean finish.

My new drawing is incorporating more 2" piping due to allowing more grease/oils to pass...if they do make it down the drain (obviously we try not to).
aav vent.jpg

from stack: Sanitary Tee (3x3x2)....
then a smaller sanitary tee for the cheater vent (2x2x1.5)

the cheater vent pipe would be 1.5" and go up about 7 feet from the finished tile floor

I would use a 2" 90 to enter into the kitchen cabinet

then I would use a 2" to 1.5" reducer coupling
and do the regular 1.5" p-trap with cleanout and the double sink plumbing


In the cabinet above the sink...I will cut a hole so the cheater vent (aav) is accessible at all times.
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
4535 posts
1773 upvotes
pardnme wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 8:29 am
just out of curiosity...say i'm working with what i have...the 3" soil stack...

what if my sink was going to be even closer....let's say the trap arm (the horizontal portion of pipe) was about 12"...how would venting work in that scenario?
Nothing changes code wise, but I’d imagine the closer it is to the stack, the lore likely the trap would siphon
Last edited by Red_Army on Nov 15th, 2019 2:41 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
4535 posts
1773 upvotes
pardnme wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 2:17 pm
okay I've come across my final drawing:

i'm going the AAV/Cheater route....but when @Red_Army said to stick it high up into the wall and put an air grill/access panel...i said no way am I having that in the powder room wall...

but now my brain worked a little bit better...and I will go up as high as I can in the wall...but cut an access panel in the kitchen cabinet above the sink! this way the powder room drywall will be clean finish.

My new drawing is incorporating more 2" piping due to allowing more grease/oils to pass...if they do make it down the drain (obviously we try not to).

aav vent.jpg


from stack: Sanitary Tee (3x3x2)....
then a smaller sanitary tee for the cheater vent (2x2x1.5)

the cheater vent pipe would be 1.5" and go up about 7 feet from the finished tile floor

I would use a 2" 90 to enter into the kitchen cabinet

then I would use a 2" to 1.5" reducer coupling
and do the regular 1.5" p-trap with cleanout and the double sink plumbing


In the cabinet above the sink...I will cut a hole so the cheater vent (aav) is accessible at all times.
The idea of having a grill is for it to have access to fresh air at all times, hiding it in a cabinet above or below the sink wouldn’t pass code either way
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
Feb 22, 2007
1875 posts
170 upvotes
Mississauga
Red_Army wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 2:34 pm
The idea of having a grill is for it to have access to fresh air at all times, hiding it in a cabinet above or below the sink wouldn’t pass code either way
ahhh...i thought i was being smart!

okay fine...i'll cut hole on the powder room side....

Do i actually need the AAV in a box? or can I just have it on the abs pipe in the wall cavity?
I'm assuming I can use a return air grille cover hide the aav
Newbie
Sep 10, 2006
18 posts
Toronto
Thanks OP what's your opinion on those auto sensing / touch kitchen faucets? we are thinking about replacing ours, such as this one from Lowes
https://www.lowes.ca/product/kitchen-fa ... cet-672119
but it seems that the reviews are mixed. some people said it will turn on/off randomly and that really scares us.
Thanks again.
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
4535 posts
1773 upvotes
pardnme wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 3:04 pm
ahhh...i thought i was being smart!

okay fine...i'll cut hole on the powder room side....

Do i actually need the AAV in a box? or can I just have it on the abs pipe in the wall cavity?
I'm assuming I can use a return air grille cover hide the aav
The manufactured box/grill box or just an air grill would suffice . Just make sure that it’s not less than 6” above any insulation
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Deal Addict
Feb 22, 2007
1875 posts
170 upvotes
Mississauga
Red_Army wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 3:12 pm
The manufactured box/grill box or just an air grill would suffice . Just make sure that it’s not less than 6” above any insulation

I dont understand that restriction...

but that wall is an interior wall...and as displayed in my of my original photos...there is no insulation in that wall...
the main floor is 8 ft ceiling...i plan on taking this cheater valve to about the 7 ft mark
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
4535 posts
1773 upvotes
pardnme wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 3:52 pm
I dont understand that restriction...

but that wall is an interior wall...and as displayed in my of my original photos...there is no insulation in that wall...
the main floor is 8 ft ceiling...i plan on taking this cheater valve to about the 7 ft mark
If its surrounded by insulation then it won’t get proper air flow. This doesn’t apply to you obviously, just though I’d mention it as many people are installing roxul in walls and ceiling now a days for sound absorption
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
[OP]
Deal Addict
User avatar
Oct 15, 2007
4535 posts
1773 upvotes
No.6 wrote:
Nov 15th, 2019 3:08 pm
Thanks OP what's your opinion on those auto sensing / touch kitchen faucets? we are thinking about replacing ours, such as this one from Lowes
https://www.lowes.ca/product/kitchen-fa ... cet-672119
but it seems that the reviews are mixed. some people said it will turn on/off randomly and that really scares us.
Thanks again.
Some people like them but personally I think they’re a cheap gimmick for the most part in a home setting. Delta is the most common brand that I’ve installed and it’s all cheap plastic, same with moen . I’ve seen problems with them as well but that’s usually related to improper installation in regards to the isolation ring. Make sure you have spare batteries (it’s does warn you when they’re getting low) but if you wait too long to change them the faucet will not operate at all.

Like anything we buy now a days the more complicated they make things the higher probability for things to go wrong. Some work well, others will have issues. Such as life
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
Newbie
Mar 9, 2013
69 posts
19 upvotes
BC
Hi Red_Army,

thanks again for your help, the toto drake fits like a glove in a 11.25" rough in, in fact, I like the way it is closer to the wall than my other proper 12" rough in (also new install).

However, one of the toilets has a very slow leak (less than one drop of water per day) at the left tank bolt. I have a reason to believe the tank & bowl were not put together as per toto intructions by the plumber. According to the drake installation manual, the bolt & rubber washer go inside the tank, and immediately outside the tank, there is a metal washer and a nut. Then the tank is to rest on the bowl, secured by another set of metal washer and nut under the bowl. So my understanding of the "stacking" from top to bottom is :
bolt - rubber washer - TANK - metal washer - nut - BOWL - metal washer - nut

The way the plumber installed the toilets is:
bolt - metal washer - rubber washer - TANK - BOWL - metal washer - nut
so he only used 2 metal washers and 1 nut per hole.

This is view from top, looks like bolt, metal washer, rubber washer
4BCF6EF4-BFFB-4B41-9467-F2963EECE64D.jpeg
side view between tank & bowl, nothing but bolt thread:
621C502D-8DF1-4B03-B385-2F9A5795AC91.jpeg

I am no plumber but it does not make sense to rely on the metal washer under the bowl to "squeeze tight" the rubber washer "above" the tank surface. I have already reported the leak to the plumber (not his boss) and he will be back later today. He is helpful as he is just started with this boss 2 weeks ago.

Here are my questions:
1) is there a problem with the plumber's installation sequence (nothing between the tank and bowl)?
2) if it is indeed a bad install, how should I call him out on this, in a nice way? As I want him to reinstall 2 toilets including the one that is not leaking (also installed the same way) according to toto drake instructions.

any advice appreciated!
Newbie
Mar 9, 2013
69 posts
19 upvotes
BC
jonnyb wrote:
Nov 18th, 2019 3:03 pm
7085FABA-152C-403A-AFBB-C99622C67F84.png

Thanks for the information, this exact diagram is the basis to believe my plumber installed not per toto instructions, so the next question is how to ask him to redo the work? i.e. how to challenge a pro in his field of supposed-expertise from a woman who can't even turn the shutoff valve?
Deal Addict
User avatar
Dec 27, 2007
1098 posts
431 upvotes
Oshawa
You aren’t challenging anything. The work was done incorrectly. If he is a pro, he will correct his mistake and thank you for catching it.
nebiopassat wrote:
Nov 18th, 2019 3:24 pm
Thanks for the information, this exact diagram is the basis to believe my plumber installed not per toto instructions, so the next question is how to ask him to redo the work? i.e. how to challenge a pro in his field of supposed-expertise from a woman who can't even turn the shutoff valve?
Newbie
Mar 9, 2013
69 posts
19 upvotes
BC
In the process of redoing the tank install, the toilet shutoff valve broke. It the "multi-turn" type of valve. There was slow/no water, when the plumber flushed the line, pieces of plastic came out and the valve does not shutoff). He has to come back again with a pex crimp tool to replace it.
Just out of curiousity and future reference (as I have 5 other shutoff valves in the home), I searched the web and saw this type of repair kit. I am wondering do these things work? If they don't, why are they selling it? if they do work, why do the plumber need to replace the whole valve?

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/brassc ... 1001386569

I even have a wilder idea of leave the old pex shutoff in the fully open position (so that I don't need to deal with the pex side of things) and screw a new shutoff valve to the end that goes up to the toilet. Do they make valve for this type of connection?

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