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Anyone need Plumbing help or advice

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  • Nov 26th, 2019 6:43 pm
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[OP]
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Oct 15, 2007
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nebiopassat wrote:
Nov 19th, 2019 2:53 pm
In the process of redoing the tank install, the toilet shutoff valve broke. It the "multi-turn" type of valve. There was slow/no water, when the plumber flushed the line, pieces of plastic came out and the valve does not shutoff). He has to come back again with a pex crimp tool to replace it.
Just out of curiousity and future reference (as I have 5 other shutoff valves in the home), I searched the web and saw this type of repair kit. I am wondering do these things work? If they don't, why are they selling it? if they do work, why do the plumber need to replace the whole valve?

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/brassc ... 1001386569

I even have a wilder idea of leave the old pex shutoff in the fully open position (so that I don't need to deal with the pex side of things) and screw a new shutoff valve to the end that goes up to the toilet. Do they make valve for this type of connection?
Is he replacing it with a 1/4” ball valve? There’s no need to replace a multi turn valve as you can just replace the packing as you pictured. This plumber doesent sounds like he’s very experienced
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Mar 1, 2017
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Hey - 6 months after steam shower complete I have efflorescence outside of the shower and cracked grout inside the shower. At what point is this cause for alarm? A GC came by and said it was likely due to the grout not being sealed - which he did. Efflorescence still happening. Any advice?
[OP]
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mikefly wrote:
Nov 24th, 2019 9:53 pm
Hey - 6 months after steam shower complete I have efflorescence outside of the shower and cracked grout inside the shower. At what point is this cause for alarm? A GC came by and said it was likely due to the grout not being sealed - which he did. Efflorescence still happening. Any advice?
Here’s a good read that will explain much better than I can http://www.mapei.com/public/US/linedocu ... nce_EN.pdf

I think Sealing the grout now will only make it worse
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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May 21, 2018
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Hey great thread! Thanks for your efforts! I’m having issues with my basement toilet and not flushing properly. Removed the toilet and snaked the drain. Dumped a large bucket of water as fast as I could down the toilet and it all drained but didn’t not seem to have a strong push. Eventually replaced the toilet and same deal... upstairs toilet flushes fine. Water level in the bowl is extremely low. any insights are appreciated!
[OP]
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Fnyguy wrote:
Nov 25th, 2019 10:08 am
Hey great thread! Thanks for your efforts! I’m having issues with my basement toilet and not flushing properly. Removed the toilet and snaked the drain. Dumped a large bucket of water as fast as I could down the toilet and it all drained but didn’t not seem to have a strong push. Eventually replaced the toilet and same deal... upstairs toilet flushes fine. Water level in the bowl is extremely low. any insights are appreciated!
Sounds like the toilet drain wasn’t vented which is causing the siphoning, but there could also be backfall on the drain. If it ties into the same line as the upstairs and the upstairs works fine it’s likely because it has more of a vertical drop/push. Have someone flush the upstairs toilet while you watch the water in the bowl downstairs and see if there is fluctuation
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Dec 31, 2007
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Once I've drilled the hole for the frost free hose and sealed the outside with silicone, what's a good way to seal the from the inside for air leakage? Low density foam? Or leave it?
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May 21, 2018
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Red_Army wrote:
Nov 25th, 2019 11:58 am
Sounds like the toilet drain wasn’t vented which is causing the siphoning, but there could also be backfall on the drain. If it ties into the same line as the upstairs and the upstairs works fine it’s likely because it has more of a vertical drop/push. Have someone flush the upstairs toilet while you watch the water in the bowl downstairs and see if there is fluctuation
Did the flush test and all I noticed was a very very minor fluctuation in the water sitting in bowl. Does this reveal anything? Also should have mentioned that the utility sink beside the very old top load laundry in the basement fills up during the spin cycle. First time I saw it I panicked thinking it was going to overflow. The water also drains eventually. Thanks in advance
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Jun 10, 2015
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Canada, ON
I’m in a condo and doing a full bathroom reno.

The shower (only one) is going to stay the same with the alcove tub and shower set up. It had the standard builder basic pressure valve and then if you want the water for the tub, you pull that tab on the spot. But it’s 2019 and we want to modernize it ...

Everything on the market is thermostatic / pressure balance now, or at least the really nice kits in a nice finish.

Any advice for a condo with installing a thermostatic set up? We also want to make it a 3 way so we want to add the shower wand as well. Right now, we have our eye on a Riobel kit - they seem to have great reviews and easy to get replacement parts.

Getting mixed messages about a thermo set up like that in a condo. I’ve emailed the board to see if I’m allowed.

Any thoughts? Or should I just keep it basic and build out a moen or delta set up to a three way and forget this thermostatic set up?

I don’t want to be a hero and this back fires on me when I should keep it simple ... given that it’s a condo.

Condo has Kitec but we are having it all replaced of course.

Thanks!
[OP]
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movefast wrote:
Nov 25th, 2019 10:46 pm
I’m in a condo and doing a full bathroom reno.

The shower (only one) is going to stay the same with the alcove tub and shower set up. It had the standard builder basic pressure valve and then if you want the water for the tub, you pull that tab on the spot. But it’s 2019 and we want to modernize it ...

Everything on the market is thermostatic / pressure balance now, or at least the really nice kits in a nice finish.

Any advice for a condo with installing a thermostatic set up? We also want to make it a 3 way so we want to add the shower wand as well. Right now, we have our eye on a Riobel kit - they seem to have great reviews and easy to get replacement parts.

Getting mixed messages about a thermo set up like that in a condo. I’ve emailed the board to see if I’m allowed.

Any thoughts? Or should I just keep it basic and build out a moen or delta set up to a three way and forget this thermostatic set up?

I don’t want to be a hero and this back fires on me when I should keep it simple ... given that it’s a condo.

Condo has Kitec but we are having it all replaced of course.

Thanks!
Thermostatic, you won’t regret it
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Mississauga
movefast wrote:
Nov 25th, 2019 10:46 pm
Any thoughts? Or should I just keep it basic and build out a moen or delta set up to a three way and forget this thermostatic set up?
I went thermostatic and would never go pressure balance again. Keep in mind not all thermostatic's are the same and some brands claim they're thermostatic because they have a separate volume and temperature control but they're not as the valve that senses temperature works on the pressure balance system, therefore it doesn't sense temperature.

When you talk about 3 way, I'll assume you're referring to a diverter valve, is so they operate one fixture or multi fixtures at a time. What you want will depend on personal preference and flow rate of your pressure balance/thermostatic valve.
[OP]
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Fnyguy wrote:
Nov 25th, 2019 5:10 pm
Did the flush test and all I noticed was a very very minor fluctuation in the water sitting in bowl. Does this reveal anything? Also should have mentioned that the utility sink beside the very old top load laundry in the basement fills up during the spin cycle. First time I saw it I panicked thinking it was going to overflow. The water also drains eventually. Thanks in advance
I’d recommend that you have your main line camera inspected.
Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again. - Andre Gide
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Fnyguy wrote:
Nov 25th, 2019 5:10 pm
Did the flush test and all I noticed was a very very minor fluctuation in the water sitting in bowl. Does this reveal anything? Also should have mentioned that the utility sink beside the very old top load laundry in the basement fills up during the spin cycle. First time I saw it I panicked thinking it was going to overflow. The water also drains eventually. Thanks in advance
Did you clean the P trap under the utility sink?....if its been awhile probably full of lint and crap.
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May 21, 2018
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Zamboni wrote:
Nov 26th, 2019 6:07 pm
Did you clean the P trap under the utility sink?....if its been awhile probably full of lint and crap.
Yes it’s clean. In fact it was the first place I made sure to check. I can see the water start to drain. About 10 seconds into draining cycle I can see the pipe fill up then start to back up into the utility sink. I’ve got an older style top load washer (drum fills completely with water) so there is a ton of water that’s getting unloaded into the drain at once. It does eventually drain but I do suspect a partial clog or venting issue. This house was built in 1891 and has undergone some renovations according to the previous owner. Wether they were done properly is yet to be discovered.

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