Tips on shooting with Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 lens

[reservoir_dogs]

Hi all,

I'm starting to learn more about photography, and recently picked up the Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 G lens to go along with my D5100. I do have a couple of questions, as I want to learn on how to fully take advantage of this lens to it's potential.

I've been shooting portraits, and strictly on the 'A' mode every time. I'm always on the highest f-stop value (in this case, f/1.4) to take advantage of the shallow depth of field. Am I limiting myself by always using f/1.4?

Also, focusing has been a big issue. For example, if someone is standing in front of a Xmas tree, sometimes the lens focuses on the tree/lights (and not the person's face). I find I have to use trial & error to get the lens to focus on the face (with luck). I tried using Manual focus, but I find it very hard to focus it myself. How can I "tell" the camera to look for the face? Would simply going to Portrait setting be my only option?

And one last thing, how would you recommend taking a photograph of a group of people with this lens? I find that the lens will focus on one face, but not all. Now I'm not sure if it's possible to focus on everyones face, but would decreasing the f-stop do the trick in this case?

Any other general info would also be gladly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any comments :)

[Scotian Lotion]

Hi all,

I'm starting to learn more about photography, and recently picked up the Nikkor 50mm f/1.4 G lens to go along with my D5100. I do have a couple of questions, as I want to learn on how to fully take advantage of this lens to it's potential.

I've been shooting portraits, and strictly on the 'A' mode every time. I'm always on the highest f-stop value (in this case, f/1.4) to take advantage of the shallow depth of field. Am I limiting myself by always using f/1.4?

Also, focusing has been a big issue. For example, if someone is standing in front of a Xmas tree, sometimes the lens focuses on the tree/lights (and not the person's face). I find I have to use trial & error to get the lens to focus on the face (with luck). I tried using Manual focus, but I find it very hard to focus it myself. How can I "tell" the camera to look for the face? Would simply going to Portrait setting be my only option?

And one last thing, how would you recommend taking a photograph of a group of people with this lens? I find that the lens will focus on one face, but not all. Now I'm not sure if it's possible to focus on everyones face, but would decreasing the f-stop do the trick in this case?

Any other general info would also be gladly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any comments :)


Yes, you're limiting your depth of field by constantly shooting in 1.4. If you were shooting a landscape with that lens, 1.4 would be a poor choice unless you were trying to achieve something specific.

How can the camera focus the tree if you're trying to focus a face? I hope you're not using Live View to take still shots.
Put the focus point on the subjects eye and it will focus. If it's hunting around, it might be because there is no contrast.
Or maybe you're shooting in Auto or 3D focus... SINGLE POINT AUTO FOCUS when taking a portrait. The subject isn't moving, so Single Point is all you need. Do this and it will focus every time (providing it's not dark as f***).

If you're shooting a group... shoot at F11 (or thereabouts, play with it). You can stay in Aperture Priority Mode, but check what shutter speed it's forcing on you. If it's slower than 1/80th, then crank up your ISO until it's 1/80th or faster (so you can handhold it). If you're on a Tripod, you can let it go a bit slower, as long as everyone can stay still.

You can shoot a portrait at F1.4, but you're going to be shooting very far back from your subjects. Depth of field is not only affected by the selected aperture, but also by the distance from the subject and the visible backgrounds distance from the subject.

[craftsman]

How can the camera focus the tree if you're trying to focus a face? I hope you're not using Live View to take still shots.
Put the focus point on the subjects eye and it will focus. If it's hunting around, it might be because there is no contrast.
Or maybe you're shooting in Auto or 3D focus... SINGLE POINT AUTO FOCUS when taking a portrait. The subject isn't moving, so Single Point is all you need. Do this and it will focus every time (providing it's not dark as f***).


If you don't want the subject in the middle of the picture (and it sounds like that you don't), change your focus mode to AF-S (Autofocus Single) and Single Point. Then use the focus lock feature of your camera (should be spelled out in your owner's manual...

[Ethan15]

New to photography?

Learn / search around online for the importance of

- Lighting (backlit? frontlit? sidelit? external flash?)
- Composition (rule of third, color, subject framing, leading lines, pattern)
- Creative exposure (this is where you'll learn that f1.4 far from everything)
- Posing (this is critical for portrait ... learn how shoulder position, head position, hand, angle)
- Being able to "Work the scene"
- Learning Adobe Lightroom / Photoshop

Lens can only do so much. It's a mere tool that captures whatever you want it to capture. Being a good photographer means that you should have some understanding on those matters above (especially on composition) beyond than owning good camera/lens.


Good luck!

[williamk10]

Its hard to shoot a group of people with a 50mm on your DX camera. I would consider using a 35mm.

Try shooting with a higher f stop in better light for improved sharpness (f5.6)

[bhrm]

Buying a 1.4 lens doesn't me you need to use it always at 1.4

But it is awesome at 1.4 :)

Just be careful as DOF is shallow at 1.4 and if your subject moves slightly as you take the photo, it could be OOF.

If i do shoot stuff at 1.4, I make sure i fire off 5-10 shots.

[reservoir_dogs]

Thanks for your detailed response Scotian Lotion.


Yes, you're limiting your depth of field by constantly shooting in 1.4. If you were shooting a landscape with that lens, 1.4 would be a poor choice unless you were trying to achieve something specific.

Yup, I would not be shooting landscape with the 50mm (just focusing on portraits for now). I will have to rely on my kit lens for the landscape photos.



How can the camera focus the tree if you're trying to focus a face? I hope you're not using Live View to take still shots.
Put the focus point on the subjects eye and it will focus. If it's hunting around, it might be because there is no contrast.
Or maybe you're shooting in Auto or 3D focus... SINGLE POINT AUTO FOCUS when taking a portrait. The subject isn't moving, so Single Point is all you need. Do this and it will focus every time (providing it's not dark as f***).

Yes, I can confirm that I am shooting in Auto. I have now changed to Single Point. And no, the Live View is never used.


If you're shooting a group... shoot at F11 (or thereabouts, play with it). You can stay in Aperture Priority Mode, but check what shutter speed it's forcing on you. If it's slower than 1/80th, then crank up your ISO until it's 1/80th or faster (so you can handhold it). If you're on a Tripod, you can let it go a bit slower, as long as everyone can stay still.

You can shoot a portrait at F1.4, but you're going to be shooting very far back from your subjects. Depth of field is not only affected by the selected aperture, but also by the distance from the subject and the visible backgrounds distance from the subject.
Ah yes that makes sense. I'm going to play around with those parameters then. Thanks again for your help!

[reservoir_dogs]

If you don't want the subject in the middle of the picture (and it sounds like that you don't), change your focus mode to AF-S (Autofocus Single) and Single Point. Then use the focus lock feature of your camera (should be spelled out in your owner's manual...

Yup, I'm definitely going to try that. I had it on Auto *darn*

[reservoir_dogs]

New to photography?

Learn / search around online for the importance of

- Lighting (backlit? frontlit? sidelit? external flash?)
- Composition (rule of third, color, subject framing, leading lines, pattern)
- Creative exposure (this is where you'll learn that f1.4 far from everything)
- Posing (this is critical for portrait ... learn how shoulder position, head position, hand, angle)
- Being able to "Work the scene"
- Learning Adobe Lightroom / Photoshop

Lens can only do so much. It's a mere tool that captures whatever you want it to capture. Being a good photographer means that you should have some understanding on those matters above (especially on composition) beyond than owning good camera/lens.


Good luck!
Sounds like there's so much to learn! Yet I relish the challenge. Thanks for pointing out the said items.

[reservoir_dogs]

Its hard to shoot a group of people with a 50mm on your DX camera. I would consider using a 35mm.

Try shooting with a higher f stop in better light for improved sharpness (f5.6)

I'm definitely going to try to use a higher f-stop now. Thanks for the suggestion.


Buying a 1.4 lens doesn't me you need to use it always at 1.4

But it is awesome at 1.4 :)

Just be careful as DOF is shallow at 1.4 and if your subject moves slightly as you take the photo, it could be OOF.

If i do shoot stuff at 1.4, I make sure i fire off 5-10 shots.

I figured that I should take advantage of the 1.4 every time to justify using this lens :cheesygri however I know I should be more flexible. After reading these responses, I definitely need to expand the usage.

[Scotian Lotion]

Are you shooting in A or Auto?

You said 'A' in your original post. If it's 'A' on the dial, then that means Aperture Priority Mode on a Nikon.

For Auto, I believe it's spelled out as 'Auto'. Definitely don't do that. You will learn nothing.

Hit up Snap Factory's channel and Adorama TV's channel on YouTube. Find Episode 1 of Mark Wallace's Digital Photography 1 on 1 series and go through the titles that are relevant to the basics. You'll learn a lot more from that then you will reading responses here, trust me.

Here's episode 1 to get you started:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xnn5nzPvoIM&feature=channel_video_title

A few more episodes in, he'll have one about the Exposure Triangle and it gets deeper from there.

After you get through all relevant content from that, turn to Flickr to find inspiration. Find pics you like and check the metadata to see how the photo was captured. Once you understand how everything relates, the metadata will make sense and you'll learn a bit more.



Also, you can still take good landscape shots with a 50mm (it's all about composition). What I meant was that, regardless of lens choice, shooting a landscape at such a high aperture (low number like 1.4 or 2.8) is not ideal, because typically you want everything in focus.

[craftsman]

For Auto, I believe it's spelled out as 'Auto'. Definitely don't do that. You will learn nothing.


There isn't anything wrong with Auto to learn how to hold the camera (ie get comfortable with how it feels), understanding what you see in the viewfinder (ie basic composition) or getting an understanding of the autofocus system (ie what does the darn thing focus on and how quickly will it do it). I think most beginners get too deep to start with and are overwhelmed by everything that they don't have fun any more because they are trying to remember everything someone has said.

At the beginning, keep it simple, have fun, and remember there is no real shame in using Auto. There is just shame in not having fun with something you want to have fun doing.

[Scotian Lotion]

There isn't anything wrong with Auto to learn how to hold the camera (ie get comfortable with how it feels), understanding what you see in the viewfinder (ie basic composition) or getting an understanding of the autofocus system (ie what does the darn thing focus on and how quickly will it do it). I think most beginners get too deep to start with and are overwhelmed by everything that they don't have fun any more because they are trying to remember everything someone has said.

At the beginning, keep it simple, have fun, and remember there is no real shame in using Auto. There is just shame in not having fun with something you want to have fun doing.


Well I said that assuming the OP has used P&S cameras in the past and this is his first DSLR.

There is no use in stepping up to a DSLR if you are going to use it as an oversized P&S.

[craftsman]

Well I said that assuming the OP has used P&S cameras in the past and this is his first DSLR.

Lots of people have used P&S cameras but they still don't know how to hold the camera the right way - fingers blocking the flash, camera stuck out in front of them so that they can use the screen to take the pictures, - or know some of the basics - trying to shot night-time landscape shots with a flash, using infinity lock for landscapes, or reducing the ISO to get less noise.


There is no use in stepping up to a DSLR if you are going to use it as an oversized P&S.

Of course there is. Now I have to agree that you probably won't use it to the full potential but some people step just to get a better quality shot with the larger sensor... others did it because everyone else is doing it... Only a relatively small amount of owners actually use it to a higher level of potential (not even to the full potential) - go off of Auto or even moving to Program (or one of the pic modes), get an extra lens, or an external flash.

[thelefteyeguy]

focus on eyes ;)

shooting at 1.4 is ok, but make sure you have enough shutter speed...increase the iso if you need.

[reservoir_dogs]

Are you shooting in A or Auto?

You said 'A' in your original post. If it's 'A' on the dial, then that means Aperture Priority Mode on a Nikon.

For Auto, I believe it's spelled out as 'Auto'. Definitely don't do that. You will learn nothing.

Hit up Snap Factory's channel and Adorama TV's channel on YouTube. Find Episode 1 of Mark Wallace's Digital Photography 1 on 1 series and go through the titles that are relevant to the basics. You'll learn a lot more from that then you will reading responses here, trust me.

Here's episode 1 to get you started:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xnn5nzPvoIM&feature=channel_video_title

A few more episodes in, he'll have one about the Exposure Triangle and it gets deeper from there.

After you get through all relevant content from that, turn to Flickr to find inspiration. Find pics you like and check the metadata to see how the photo was captured. Once you understand how everything relates, the metadata will make sense and you'll learn a bit more.



Also, you can still take good landscape shots with a 50mm (it's all about composition). What I meant was that, regardless of lens choice, shooting a landscape at such a high aperture (low number like 1.4 or 2.8) is not ideal, because typically you want everything in focus.

Yes, I am using Aperature Priority. I was on Auto for the first month or so as a beginner, but now trying to take advantage of manually playing around with the settings.

Thanks so much for the video recommendation. Will check it out.

[reservoir_dogs]

focus on eyes ;)

shooting at 1.4 is ok, but make sure you have enough shutter speed...increase the iso if you need.

Yeah I'm always trying to focus on the eyes. However it seems whenever I do have the focus point at the eyes, it still comes out a bit blurry. For example, I had someone stand directly next to a Xmas tree, and had the focus point on the eyes/face. but it seemed like the tree was in better focus.

Hmmmm.. I just played with bumping up the ISO, and didn't realize it increased the shutter speed. I would've thought it would be the opposite. What are the implications of using a high ISO setting for well-lit areas? At such conditions, I always use a low ISO, say 250 or so.

[Ethan15]

Yeah I'm always trying to focus on the eyes. However it seems whenever I do have the focus point at the eyes, it still comes out a bit blurry. For example, I had someone stand directly next to a Xmas tree, and had the focus point on the eyes/face. but it seemed like the tree was in better focus.

Hmmmm.. I just played with bumping up the ISO, and didn't realize it increased the shutter speed. I would've thought it would be the opposite. What are the implications of using a high ISO setting for well-lit areas? At such conditions, I always use a low ISO, say 250 or so.

There is no use whatsoever to use High-iso in well-lit scene ... since it will only increase noise in your picture.

For the focus issue, it could be possible that due to subject movement, it seems that the tree is in better focus. This seems to be case since you said the tree is right beside the subject which eliminates the possibility of front/back focusing problem. Try to pump up the ISO when shooting in low light also try to not handheld your camera below 1/50 second (since you have 50mm lens)

[kiasu]

Yeah I'm always trying to focus on the eyes. However it seems whenever I do have the focus point at the eyes, it still comes out a bit blurry. For example, I had someone stand directly next to a Xmas tree, and had the focus point on the eyes/face. but it seemed like the tree was in better focus.

Hmmmm.. I just played with bumping up the ISO, and didn't realize it increased the shutter speed. I would've thought it would be the opposite. What are the implications of using a high ISO setting for well-lit areas? At such conditions, I always use a low ISO, say 250 or so.

I'm not sure if you are having the same situation I had when I first learned it..

As everyone mentioned the focus which is the 'rectangle square box', you can control and move that move it to left/right/up/down. Just make sure the rectangle square box is pointing at the object you are focusing.

[reservoir_dogs]

There is no use whatsoever to use High-iso in well-lit scene ... since it will only increase noise in your picture.

For the focus issue, it could be possible that due to subject movement, it seems that the tree is in better focus. This seems to be case since you said the tree is right beside the subject which eliminates the possibility of front/back focusing problem. Try to pump up the ISO when shooting in low light also try to not handheld your camera below 1/50 second (since you have 50mm lens)

Yeah I am realizing that the lack of depth between the person and tree is causing the focus issue. So I try to make sure the person is standing more in front of it.

Also, out of curiosity, why stay away from below 1/50 second? I want to learn how this relates to the 50mm.

[reservoir_dogs]

I'm not sure if you are having the same situation I had when I first learned it..

As everyone mentioned the focus which is the 'rectangle square box', you can control and move that move it to left/right/up/down. Just make sure the rectangle square box is pointing at the object you are focusing.

Yes, I never played around with moving the focus points. It is/was a great tip!

[Ethan15]

Yeah I am realizing that the lack of depth between the person and tree is causing the focus issue. So I try to make sure the person is standing more in front of it.

Also, out of curiosity, why stay away from below 1/50 second? I want to learn how this relates to the 50mm.

It's just a well-known rule of thumb that photographers who use 35mm (full frame format) refer to avoid camera shake. It's quiet simple: If your focal length is let's say 17mm then simply anything near/below 1/17 second would probably induce camera shake. It's just 1 / XX (XX being the focal length used on full frame).

Keep in mind that this is just a general rule of thumb (higher chance of blurred image) as a reference only instead of a hard set rule (anything below that shutter speed must be blurry). Other factors to keep in mind:

1. If you use crop body, 50mm lens is equivalent to 75mm in full frame. Therefore crop factor also needs to be taken into account when using this rule of thumb. 50mm lens may require you to stay above 1/75sec (50 x 1.5 crop factor).

2. Your handholding capability (how stable you are and the technique you employ). i.e techniques such as trying to keep your elbow tucked in while holding your breath will help eliminate camera shake (http://www.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-avoid-camera-shake). Learning a good hand holding capability will show incremental benefit.

3. Image stabilization. 50mm prime lens does not have any image stabilization so there is no compensation there ... but many other zoom lenses have IS which will compensate up to two to four stops of aperture.

If you must hand held your shots in low shutter speed, my suggestion would be to use continuous shooting mode. My experience is, depending how slow the shutter speed is, there is one sharp images taken every let's say 5? or even 10?. Never take only one image and walk away when shooting in low light ... :)

[reservoir_dogs]

Thanks Ethan15 for the detailed response! Those were some interesting hand-holding techniques in your link!