Oil for Honda Civic (0W20 vs 5W20)

[claudiu_corbea]

My 2007 Civic 1.8 L is due for an oil change soon and I am thinking about putting in 0W20. I will not be driving much this year so most likely this oil change will last me well until next spring/summer so I was thinking about filling up with Mobil 1 0W20 to help the engine during the cold starts in the winter.
The manual calls for 5W20 and I am running Mobil 1 5W20 right now, but the new Civic which runs the same engine comes with a 0W20 recommendation from Honda.
So should I switch ?

[Mark77]

0W20 is better than 5W20.

Yes you should switch, although the 0W20 fluid probably will cost you more than 5W-20 because a 0W-20 oil, with current technology, has to be formulated as a 100% synthetic, while 5W-20 fluids can be fomulated as synthetic blends (hence cheaper).

[packardbell]

i would just use factory specs of 5W20 unless you are tracking or pushing the car.
makes no economic sense to put 0W20 if you drive like a granny.:cheesygri

[XtremeModder]

I'll never understand why people use anything other than the recommended oil, it's like the guy at my work, 92 integra, puts synthetic in then wonders why there are oil leaks all over the place...

[Mark77]

I'll never understand why people use anything other than the recommended oil, it's like the guy at my work, 92 integra, puts synthetic in then wonders why there are oil leaks all over the place...

In my case, 0W-30 didn't even exist as a viscosity grade when my car was manufactured. Yet, based on its technical characteristics, its a superior oil. I use very long drain intervals (50,000kms or more between oil changes), so I want the best stuff money can buy.

As for oil leaks, those occur independant of the oil. Synthetic causing leaks is largely a myth from the past. I'd be surprised if there was any car built 20-years ago that didn't suffer from oil leaks, unless it underwent complete component overhauls.

[packardbell]

In my case, 0W-30 didn't even exist as a viscosity grade when my car was manufactured. Yet, based on its technical characteristics, its a superior oil. I use very long drain intervals (50,000kms or more between oil changes), so I want the best stuff money can buy.

As for oil leaks, those occur independant of the oil. Synthetic causing leaks is largely a myth from the past. I'd be surprised if there was any car built 20-years ago that didn't suffer from oil leaks, unless it underwent complete component overhauls.

Yes i agree that 0W20 or 0W30 is a superior grade oil compared the the 5W20 and 5W30. Even though the oil you are using is better I would find that 50,000 kms to be a too long an interval to change any oil. Manufacturers specify the oil change interval for a reason and you going that far I do not believe the oil you use will hold up.

oil leaks happen from various reasons but mostly due to age, heat and cold cycles and vibration so it is not all because of the oil you are using.

[thrifthunter]

I use very long drain intervals (50,000kms or more between oil changes),

Why?

[Mark77]

Why?

Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.

[poedua]

Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.

I assume you use an extended interval oil filter given your 50,000 km oil change intervals ?

How often do you change the oil filter of the course of the 50,000 km interval ?

[thrifthunter]

Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.

Yeah and my uncle has no problems drinking a dozen beer everyday for the past 20 years either, but I am sure we both know how that is likely to end..

[Mark77]

I assume you use an extended interval oil filter given your 50,000 km oil change intervals ?

Nope. Just Wix's or Fram's.



How often do you change the oil filter of the course of the 50,000 km interval ?

At roughly 25k. Don't know if its necessary, but I do it anyways.

[Mark77]

Yeah and my uncle has no problems drinking a dozen beer everyday for the past 20 years either, but I am sure we both know how that is likely to end..

If your uncle is 80 years old, and his liver function tests come back 100%, would you say a dozen beer a day habit is a problem?

[poedua]

Nope. Just Wix's or Fram's.

At roughly 25k. Don't know if its necessary, but I do it anyways.

As far as I know, your standard WIX or MANN or an OEM oil filter aren't designed to go to 25,000 km. That sort of 25,000 km interval usually requires an extended service filter - such as the extended service AMSOIL filter for example.

Even AMSOIL recommends changing at the OEM recommended interval or every 12,000 km, whichever is longer, when using AMSOIL ( Group 4 - 100% ) synthetic motor oil and a ' non-Amsoil ' filter like WIX or an OEM oil filter.

[chickenbones]

I assume you use an extended interval oil filter given your 50,000 km oil change intervals ?

How often do you change the oil filter of the course of the 50,000 km interval ?

I would think no filter lasts 50,000 kms.

[poedua]

Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.

What make / model and year of vehicle where you " dissassembled the engine " are we talking here ?

How many kms on the engine ?

[thrifthunter]

If your uncle is 80 years old, and his liver function tests come back 100%, would you say a dozen beer a day habit is a problem?

He is nowhere near 80 and I don't know that he has had liver function tests.

[Mark77]

What make / model and year of vehicle where you " dissassembled the engine " are we talking here ?

GM 3.1L V6, "LH0" (ie: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_60-Degree_V6_engine#LH0). "dissassembly" involved removing the lower intake manifold assembly to replace a leaking gasket (a fairly routine job on those engines).

Engine was built in 26th week of 1992. Its basically one of the fore-runners to the 3100/3400 engines that appeared in basically most mid-sized GM cars in the past 20 years.



How many kms on the engine ?

203,000km right now, started at 100,000km.

[Pete_Coach]

I'll never understand why people use anything other than the recommended oil, it's like the guy at my work, 92 integra, puts synthetic in then wonders why there are oil leaks all over the place...
+1


Yes i agree that 0W20 or 0W30 is a superior grade oil compared the the 5W20 and 5W30. Even though the oil you are using is better I would find that 50,000 kms to be a too long an interval to change any oil. Manufacturers specify the oil change interval for a reason and you going that far I do not believe the oil you use will hold up.

oil leaks happen from various reasons but mostly due to age, heat and cold cycles and vibration so it is not all because of the oil you are using.
So much misinformation.
0W-20, 0W-30 or 3W-20 are all only SAE viscosity indexes of the lubricant. The viscosity of 0W20 synthetic is the same as that of 0W20 petroleum based lubricant. These numbers only indicate the "slipperiness" of the lubricant.
Usage, or what the oil is designed withstand is the API (American Petroleum Institute) grade. The most current for gasoline engines is SN.
http://www.api.org/certification-programs/engine-oil-diesel-exhaust-fluid/~/media/Files/Certification/Engine-Oil-Diesel/Publications/Engine-Oil-Guide-2010-120210.ashx
There is so much misunderstanding and misinformation about oil it is not funny anymore.
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

[Mark77]

As far as I know, your standard WIX or MANN or an OEM oil filter aren't designed to go to 25,000 km. That sort of 25,000 km interval usually requires an extended service filter - such as the extended service AMSOIL filter for example.


My owners manual says 15,000 *miles* on a filter. Any filter. So 25k km's is pretty much the OEM's recommendation.




Even AMSOIL recommends changing at the OEM recommended interval or every 12,000 km, whichever is longer, when using AMSOIL ( Group 4 - 100% ) synthetic motor oil and a ' non-Amsoil ' filter like WIX or an OEM oil filter.

Amsoil and their MLM junkys say a lot of stuff. Just remember, they're in business too, to sell extra filters and their overpriced oils as well.

[Mark77]

0W-20, 0W-30 or 3W-20 are all only SAE viscosity indexes of the lubricant. The viscosity of 0W20 synthetic is the same as that of 0W20 petroleum based lubricant. These numbers only indicate the "slipperiness" of the lubricant.


It is practically impossible to formulate a 0W-20 oil without using synthetic fluids. The viscosity index (ie: slope of the viscosity versus temperature curve) is far flatter for the synthetic fluids than the petroleum derived fluids, and this is a vital characteristic of the sort of basestocks used to formulate a 0W-20 oil.

[poedua]

My owners manual says 15,000 *miles* on a filter. Any filter. So 25k km's is pretty much the OEM's recommendation.

GM allows for 25,000 km on a single GM OEM oil filter ? Who knew.

Just so I'm clear, what is the recommended oil change interval GM cited for your vehicle ....25,000 km as well ?

[Mark77]

GM allows for 25,000 km on a single GM OEM oil filter ? Who knew.

Just so I'm clear, what is the recommended oil change interval GM cited for your vehicle ....25,000 km as well ?

Officially, 7500 miles/12,000km. Filter changes every 2nd oil change. GM officially spec'ed the 15k/24k km's on a filter with respect to a "half-sized" filter, but I use the full-sized one (which fits, but costs a dollar extra).

I'm not recommending anyone else do this, but its a 20-year-old car, probably has a book value of around $1500.

Junkyards are chock full of cars with the same engine, in perfect condition, but ruined bodies, worn out interiors, rust, etc.

[thrifthunter]

Junkyards are chock full of cars with the same engine, in perfect condition, but ruined bodies, worn out interiors, rust, etc.

So dropping some used oil off at Canadian Tire for proper disposal is to much of a hassle for you, but the potential of having to swap out your engine is cool because they are abundant at the junkyard.. nice. :lol:

[Mark77]

So dropping some used oil off at Canadian Tire for proper disposal is to much of a hassle for you, but the potential of having to swap out your engine is cool because they are abundant at the junkyard.. nice. :lol:

No, the idea is to avoid putting unnecessary money/resources into a car that is likely to be retired based on other factors. Based on the alternative being 10k km oil changes, I've already saved $300-$400. Money that's in my pocket.

There is no evidence of any sludge or extra wear on the upper parts of the engine, and when I drained from the first 50k, there was no metal or anything on the magnetic drain plug (steel block, btw, so it would show up!). So I'm pretty confident that I'm not materially reducing engine life. If I only get 400k out of it, instead of 600k, big deal -- chances are, it'll be rusted out by the time 350k comes around anyways.

[Pete_Coach]

It is practically impossible to formulate a 0W-20 oil without using synthetic fluids. The viscosity index (ie: slope of the viscosity versus temperature curve) is far flatter for the synthetic fluids than the petroleum derived fluids, and this is a vital characteristic of the sort of basestocks used to formulate a 0W-20 oil.
The point was not or is not how difficult or easy it is to formulate/refine/manufacture, it is that 0W-20 or 5W-30 is just the viscosity index and not the complete service indication of the lubricant. ;)

[Rehan]

My 2007 Civic 1.8 L is due for an oil change soon and I am thinking about putting in 0W20. I will not be driving much this year so most likely this oil change will last me well until next spring/summer so I was thinking about filling up with Mobil 1 0W20 to help the engine during the cold starts in the winter.
The manual calls for 5W20 and I am running Mobil 1 5W20 right now, but the new Civic which runs the same engine comes with a 0W20 recommendation from Honda.
So should I switch ? 0W20 is fine in your 2007 Civic:

http://pictures.dealer.com/t/terryleehonda/1555/9f8d47ad40463872017414c8ea7fd12f.jpg

At my local Honda dealer, it's only $5.25 per Litre, so the price is good too. (The synthetic 5W20 is around $10, though... go figure.)

[Mark77]

The point was not or is not how difficult or easy it is to formulate/refine/manufacture, it is that 0W-20 or 5W-30 is just the viscosity index and not the complete service indication of the lubricant. ;)

No, viscosity index is a completely different number. 0W-20, 5W-30, etc., are numbers basically taken out of a book of specs somewhere that the SPE/API/SAE people came up with at some point.

By definition, an oil that is 0W-20, is also 5W-30, 10W-20, 15W-20, 30W-20, etc. The xW part refers to a minimum cold-flowability standard, while the "20" part refers to the viscosity at a certain reference temperature (ie: a typical engine operating temperature).

[thrifthunter]

No, the idea is to avoid putting unnecessary money/resources into a car that is likely to be retired based on other factors. Based on the alternative being 10k km oil changes, I've already saved $300-$400.

You say you are after going two 50k intervals. Oil change costs $20 so you've spent $40. It will have cost you $200 to do it every 10k over that span. Difference is $160. "Savings" like that when spanned over such a lengthy period of time are not even going to be noticeable..

[Mark77]

You say you are after going two 50k intervals. Oil change costs $20 so you've spent $40. It will have cost you $200 to do it every 10k over that span. Difference is $160. "Savings" like that when spanned over such a lengthy period of time are not even going to be noticeable..

Well I would use a cost per oil change number twice what you're suggesting (my time and tools aren't free....nor are the quickie lubes), and $400 compared to the $10k of fuel burned over 100,000km is almost like not paying GST on fuel.

But as I said in my earlier post, its sort of my own personal experiment. And so far, I'm very pleased with the results.

[poedua]

Officially, 7500 miles/12,000km. Filter changes every 2nd oil change. GM officially spec'ed the 15k/24k km's on a filter with respect to a "half-sized" filter, but I use the full-sized one (which fits, but costs a dollar extra).

I'm not recommending anyone else do this, but its a 20-year-old car, probably has a book value of around $1500.

Junkyards are chock full of cars with the same engine, in perfect condition, but ruined bodies, worn out interiors, rust, etc.

Thanks...that clears things up.

[thrifthunter]

Well I would use a cost per oil change number twice what you're suggesting (my time and tools aren't free....nor are the quickie lubes), and $400 compared to the $10k of fuel burned over 100,000km is almost like not paying GST on fuel.

But as I said in my earlier post, its sort of my own personal experiment. And so far, I'm very pleased with the results.

But you already own your tools, might as well get your moneys worth out of them. And you do it in your free time, which is worthless that is why they call it free. I mean what else would you be doing in those 20 minutes of time every 4-6 months or so? Watching tv or on the computer doing **** all..

[poedua]

0W20 is better than 5W20.

Yes you should switch, although the 0W20 fluid probably will cost you more than 5W-20 because a 0W-20 oil, with current technology, has to be formulated as a 100% synthetic, while 5W-20 fluids can be fomulated as synthetic blends (hence cheaper).

If " 0W20 fluid probably will cost you more ", then I assume there must still be a cost / benefit to going with 0w20 ?

For an average driver in the GTA - say, someone who is doing 23,000 km a year - what is the major benefit of going with a 0W20 oil in a vehicle spec'd for 5W20 ....in your view ?

In other words, WHY is 0W20 is better than 5W20 ?

[Pete_Coach]

No, viscosity index is a completely different number. 0W-20, 5W-30, etc., are numbers basically taken out of a book of specs somewhere that the SPE/API/SAE people came up with at some point.

By definition, an oil that is 0W-20, is also 5W-30, 10W-20, 15W-20, 30W-20, etc. The xW part refers to a minimum cold-flowability standard, while the "20" part refers to the viscosity at a certain reference temperature (ie: a typical engine operating temperature).
Yes, that is correct.
It not just any book though is it? It is the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) specification book on the flow characteristics of lubricating fluid (viscosity). They developed the methodology, the specification and the standard.
What are you saying? There is some other, better spec that we should be using? If there is, why can we not see it on the can?
If you are such an oil aficionado then you know you would not want to use a multi grade oil in your car. You, being really smart and understanding it all would use a summer oil in warmer weather and then a less viscous, easy flowing, lighter oil in the cold weather. I mean, that would be the right thing?
Fact is, the "standard" for oil viscosity is the one developed by the SAE. Don't make rectal plucks, read the links.

[Mark77]

If " 0W20 fluid probably will cost you more ", then I assume there must still be a cost / benefit to going with 0w20 ?

Yeah cold pumpability, and, of course, the 100% synthetic fluids used in a 0W-20 oil (compared to 5W-20 partial-synthetics) will have some benefits as well in terms of flashpoint.



For an average driver in the GTA - say, someone who is doing 23,00 km a year - what is the major benefit of going with a 0W20 oil in a vehicle spec'd for 5W20 ....in your view ?

Well you're probably getting a better quality oil that will probably have slightly lower start-up wear, and might be slightly easier to start in the dead of winter. I doubt we're really talking about anything measurable for someone in the GTA though.

However, Toyota and Honda believe the issue of startup wear is serious enough in their hybrids (think: very frequent starts and stops of the engine) that they've spec'ed 0W-20 as the oil for both.

[poedua]

Yeah cold pumpability, and, of course, the 100% synthetic fluids used in a 0W-20 oil (compared to 5W-20 partial-synthetics) will have some benefits as well in terms of flashpoint.

Well you're probably getting a better quality oil that will probably have slightly lower start-up wear, and might be slightly easier to start in the dead of winter. I doubt we're really talking about anything measurable for someone in the GTA though.

However, Toyota and Honda believe the issue of startup wear is serious enough in their hybrids (think: very frequent starts and stops of the engine) that they've spec'ed 0W-20 as the oil for both.

So, a good quality 5W20 Grp 4 synthetic like Amsoil's 100% synthetic should take care of this " lower start-up wear ' issue for most any average drivers in the GTA I'd think - so, there is probably no real discernible benefit to going with 0W20.

[Mark77]

Yes, that is correct.
It not just any book though is it? It is the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) specification book on the flow characteristics of lubricating fluid (viscosity). They developed the methodology, the specification and the standard.
What are you saying? There is some other, better spec that we should be using? If there is, why can we not see it on the can?
If you are such an oil aficionado then you know you would not want to use a multi grade oil in your car. You, being really smart and understanding it all would use a summer oil in warmer weather and then a less viscous, easy flowing, lighter oil in the cold weather. I mean, that would be the right thing?
Fact is, the "standard" for oil viscosity is the one developed by the SAE. Don't make rectal plucks, read the links.

Viscosity index isn't a number that the 'consumer' uses, but rather, is a characteristic that the oil supply chains use in order to characterize the quality of their basestocks. An individual blender/marketer of products will combine a number of different base oils + an additive package, in order to meet a given performance specification at a certain price point they're hoping to meet.

You're a pilot, right? To the average "joe" on the street, what they buy from an airline is air transportation. But you or your employer has to do all the dirty work of deciding what sort of plane is going to be used, how fast it will be flown, etc. Just like someone with some technical knowledge of airplanes can deduce that an overnight trip from Toronto to Hong Kong won't be on a Cessna 172, someone with a technical knowledge of oil can generally deduce that a 0W-20 oil has a nearly 100% probability of being manufactured entirely from synthetic components.

[Mark77]

So, a good quality 5W20 Grp 4 synthetic like Amsoil's 100% synthetic should take care of this " lower start-up wear ' issue for most any average drivers in the GTA I'd think - so, there is probably no real discernible benefit to going with 0W20.

Yeah, although if the vehicle's designer called for an oil that is explicitly 0W-20, you are best to heed the recommendation and use one.

Amsoil's 5W-20 probably meets 0W-20 anyways, but is marketed as a 5W-20 (remember, the 5W, 10W, 20W refers to a *minimum* standard that can be exceeded by the vendor).

In terms of measuring things scientifically such as you describe, there are so many variables that its practically impossible outside of very carefully instrumented laboratory conditions.

I do know that some of the Esso advertisements in the past for their diesel engine oils actually showed various oils in beakers in the wintertime, and the 0W-30/0W-40 grades, surprise surprise, were fluids at -45C, while the more commonly used 15W-40 grade was a solid. The point being, in the cold climates, you'd rather a fluid that can lubricate the engine during startup, rather than sit there as a solid blob until the engine warmed up enough.

[Pete_Coach]

Viscosity index isn't a number that the 'consumer' uses, but rather, is a characteristic that the oil supply chains use in order to characterize the quality of their basestocks. An individual blender/marketer of products will combine a number of different base oils + an additive package, in order to meet a given performance specification at a certain price point they're hoping to meet.

You're a pilot, right? To the average "joe" on the street, what they buy from an airline is air transportation. But you or your employer has to do all the dirty work of deciding what sort of plane is going to be used, how fast it will be flown, etc. Just like someone with some technical knowledge of airplanes can deduce that an overnight trip from Toronto to Hong Kong won't be on a Cessna 172, someone with a technical knowledge of oil can generally deduce that a 0W-20 oil has a nearly 100% probability of being manufactured entirely from synthetic components.

Honestly dude, get your stuff together and really get the facts.

[poedua]

Yeah, although if the vehicle's designer called for an oil that is explicitly 0W-20, you are best to heed the recommendation and use one.

Agreed...I should of been clearer and said " there is probably no real discernible benefit to going with 0W20...in a vehicle spec'd for 5W20 "


Amsoil's 5W-20 probably meets 0W-20 anyways, but is marketed as a 5W-20 (remember, the 5W, 10W, 20W refers to a *minimum* standard that can be exceeded by the vendor).

In terms of measuring things scientifically such as you describe, there are so many variables that its practically impossible outside of very carefully instrumented laboratory conditions.

I do know that some of the Esso advertisements in the past for their diesel engine oils actually showed various oils in beakers in the wintertime, and the 0W-30/0W-40 grades, surprise surprise, were fluids at -45C, while the more commonly used 15W-40 grade was a solid.

The point being, in the cold climates, you'd rather a fluid that can lubricate the engine during startup, rather than sit there as a solid blob until the engine warmed up enough.

Agreed.

But again, the difference in ' pour point ' between a 0W20 100% synthetic and 5W20 100% synthetic really isn't worth worrying about for most drivers in Canada..... IMO.

For example, for Amsoil's 0W20 100% synthetic and their 5W20 100% synthetic..........


- 0W20 pour point........................-54°C

- 5W20 pour point........................-51°C

[liorsyncro]

Back to the OP's question: you should be fine switching. In fact, 0w-20 is the new recommended oil by Honda. Interestingly, in the States there are two variants of the new oil: synthetic blend and full synthetic. In Canada, the oil the dealerships use is full synthetic 0w-20. FYI, Mobil1 are marketing 0w-20 oil as an "advanced fuel economy" oil, same price as other grades of Mobil1.

[Mark77]

Honestly dude, get your stuff together and really get the facts.

Those are the facts. This might help you with the concept of 'viscosity index': http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Viscosity_index .

[packardbell]

how come everyone talk about having more wear when using conventional vs. synthetic of the same grade oil changed at the manufacturer's recommended intervals?

talk is talk and I want to see long term tests of the same engines, one using conventional oil vs one using sythetic oil changed a recommended intervals.
after 10 years and 250,000 kilometers how much wear difference are you going to get?
yes people like putting good oil and fuel in their cars but is the cost vs benefit justified?

I have my 1988 Oldsmobile and I have used conventional oil 10W30 and switched to 5W30 when it was available, used those so dreaded and feared orange FRAM oil filters by many members here. But I always changed my oil at 5000 kms or 6 months which ever came first. It has 140,000 kms now, and it does not burn oil, had a few oil leaks with the distributor seal, valve covers, transmission pan, and cv input seals. Internally there is no sludge and never had any internal engine issues.

the other cars I use synthetic oil because I beat the crap out of them, over redline power shifts, always high revings.

[l69norm]

Back to the OP's question: you should be fine switching. In fact, 0w-20 is the new recommended oil by Honda. Interestingly, in the States there are two variants of the new oil: synthetic blend and full synthetic. In Canada, the oil the dealerships use is full synthetic 0w-20. FYI, Mobil1 are marketing 0w-20 oil as an "advanced fuel economy" oil, same price as other grades of Mobil1.

+1, all the OP asked was if it was OK to switch between Mobil1 0W20 and Mobil1 5W20 (both synthetic) for this summer and into next winter in his Civic. I would say to use whichever one is cheaper, but likely they are the same price.

[packardbell]

GM 3.1L V6, "LH0" (ie: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_60-Degree_V6_engine#LH0). "dissassembly" involved removing the lower intake manifold assembly to replace a leaking gasket (a fairly routine job on those engines).

Engine was built in 26th week of 1992. Its basically one of the fore-runners to the 3100/3400 engines that appeared in basically most mid-sized GM cars in the past 20 years.




203,000km right now, started at 100,000km.

60 degree pushrod and I am still using conventional 5W30 with orange fram filters. lol!


http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/packardbell2nhand/oldsmobile%20input%20shaft%20seal%20atf/DSCN1854.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h343/packardbell2nhand/oldsmobile%20input%20shaft%20seal%20atf/DSCN1851.jpg

[Anikiri]

My new Civic requires 0W-20, however, I have not change the break-in oil yet. Can I put 5W-20 oil in? Will it mess up my engine?

no problem. The 5 in 5W20 is cold temperature fluidity. use whatever you find between 0w20 and 5w20, works equally well.

[Rehan]

Keep in mind that 0W20 is synthetic and the Civic Maintenance Minder is programmed based on synthetic oil usage. So if you're using non-synthetic 5W20, then alter your oil change interval accordingly. Besides that, it's better to use 0w20 in winter (not an issue for the next 7 months).

Why are you thinking of switching, btw?

[Rehan]

0W-20 is more expensive and it is good for winter only. 0W20 is supposed to give better mileage, too. Even with a 1% drop in mileage, the 5W20 will become slightly more expensive than Honda 0W20 (about $8/Litre).

But if you've already bought it, go ahead and use it. :)

[RETD]

0W20 is supposed to give better mileage, too. Even with a 1% drop in mileage, ...

Both 0W20 and 5W20 theoretically have the same viscosity at operating temps. I doubt you'd get anything close to a 1% improvement either in the lab or the real world.



Keep in mind that 0W20 is synthetic and the Civic Maintenance Minder is programmed based on synthetic oil usage.

I don't think this is true. Don't the 8th & 9th gens both have the R18 engine but 8th gen calls for 5W20 while 9th gens calls for 0W20? That's not saying that they haven't adjusted the MM algorithm though (I'm just speculating at this point).



If there is indeed a factory-fill break-in oil then I wouldn't change it until indicated by the maintenance minder or manual - it's in there for a reason.

I would run 0W20 to avoid any potential warranty hassles and then switch to 5W20 afterwards to avoid the premium for synthetic.

[EPcjay]

way to raise a 1 year old thread ..

[qdizzle]

Dude. Don't use the same oil for a year. Buy the standard frickin oil and change it on time.

[OasisUK]

Dude. Don't use the same oil for a year. Buy the standard frickin oil and change it on time.


what he said

[Rehan]

Dude. Don't use the same oil for a year. Buy the standard frickin oil and change it on time. Sometimes one year is "on time"...like in my Odyssey. It takes 5W20 (non-synthetic) and the manual says to change it at 12 months if the "service due now" message doesn't come up on the Maintenance Minder, which is the case for me. I've driven it 8000 km since the last oil change 49 weeks ago, and it still says 30% oil life left. I use synthetic 0W20 in it, so I'm not worried about it going 12 months between oil changes.

But yeah, change it on time according to the manufacturer's specs.