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StonePort
Jun 28th, 2012, 03:41 PM
Hi folks

There seems to be a great deal of misinformation about the use of different types of tiles for a floor and wall.

Some of those questions are "What's the difference between a ceramic or a porcelain tile?" or "Does marble or granite stain easily?" and "What's the best installation of a floor tile?". If you are building a brand new home or contemplating a renovation and are not sure what types of tiles to use, post the question here and I will answer them.

nyik
Jun 28th, 2012, 05:18 PM
Hi folks

There seems to be a great deal of misinformation about the use of different types of tiles for a floor and wall.

Some of those questions are "What's the difference between a ceramic or a porcelain tile?" or "Does marble or granite stain easily?" and "What's the best installation of a floor tile?". If you are building a brand new home or contemplating a renovation and are not sure what types of tiles to use, post the question here and I will answer them.

Thanks for putting your time and effort into answering fellow RFD questions regarding tiling.

If you could add some information as to your experience, time in industry, background, that would give some credibility as to why people should ask you for your expertise.

StonePort
Jun 28th, 2012, 06:07 PM
Thanks for putting your time and effort into answering fellow RFD questions regarding tiling.

If you could add some information as to your experience, time in industry, background, that would give some credibility as to why people should ask you for your expertise.

Thanks for the response and you are right. Folks should know more about me and what level of experience that I have.

My background is in construction, and I have been a general contractor and home builder for over 20 years. Over the last five years, I have dedicate my time at Stone Port, a company that manufacturers and distributes natural stone and porcelain products. Our company distributes products across North America and has a great selection of a number of different tiles that are suitable for floor and wall application. In addition, we have handled the supply and installation of tiles for many residential homes and commercial projects. We are an official supplier to The Princess Margaret Home Lottery.

As I have combed over the different postings on this site, there are number of inaccuracies that I have found. Since I handle questions from tile retailers and contractors everyday, I thought it would be a great idea to open up a discussion and have a place where folks can ask questions and bounce ideas about tiling.

Looking forward to helping folks out whenever I can.

stt55pot
Jun 28th, 2012, 07:11 PM
well i was thinking of getting a couple of tiles for the kitchen table...are there sizes like 16 by 24? So I don't have to put to many :)

StonePort
Jun 28th, 2012, 10:44 PM
well i was thinking of getting a couple of tiles for the kitchen table...are there sizes like 16 by 24? So I don't have to put to many :)

Well...you could take a 24"x24" and cut it up, I guess...:confused:

Just kidding!!!

Although there are some manufactuers that produce this type of tile format, we have found that a lot of tile contractors have resisted larger sizes like 18"x18" and 24"x24" because it just takes longer to install and requires more work and ability. The most popular size is 12"x24".

Thanks for the comment!!!

nyik
Jun 29th, 2012, 10:18 AM
Thanks for the response and you are right. Folks should know more about me and what level of experience that I have.

My background is in construction, and I have been a general contractor and home builder for over 20 years. Over the last five years, I have dedicate my time at Stone Port, a company that manufacturers and distributes natural stone and porcelain products. Our company distributes products across North America and has a great selection of a number of different tiles that are suitable for floor and wall application. In addition, we have handled the supply and installation of tiles for many residential homes and commercial projects. We are an official supplier to The Princess Margaret Home Lottery.

As I have combed over the different postings on this site, there are number of inaccuracies that I have found. Since I handle questions from tile retailers and contractors everyday, I thought it would be a great idea to open up a discussion and have a place where folks can ask questions and bounce ideas about tiling.

Looking forward to helping folks out whenever I can.

Thanks for the clarification!

nyik
Jun 29th, 2012, 10:24 AM
I've got a couple of questions.

1. I want to retile my bathroom and kitchen. Is it difficult to remove the existing tile? What would I use? Hammer and chisel? What if I go through the subfloor? :cry: Any common problems I should avoid or handy tips you can suggest?

2. I want to redo my kitchen backsplash. Do I tile from the counter up to the cabinet edges or do I remove the cabinets, tile, and put the cabinets slightly over the tile? Same goes for window casings? Do I need to have a seam/transition between the tile and cabinet, or just grout edge is fine?

3. What's the best grout sealer for kitchen floor grout (spills, etc)?

Thanks!

nsd
Jun 29th, 2012, 11:14 AM
What's "in style" right now when it comes to backsplashes? I still need to do mine and am looking for ideas :).

ewka
Jul 6th, 2012, 08:00 AM
Hi I'm looking for a white bevelled edge white subway kitchen backsplash tile. Any pointers of where I can look for this. It does not seem to be available in any of the big box stores.

StonePort
Jul 7th, 2012, 03:16 PM
I've got a couple of questions.

1. I want to retile my bathroom and kitchen. Is it difficult to remove the existing tile? What would I use? Hammer and chisel? What if I go through the subfloor? :cry: Any common problems I should avoid or handy tips you can suggest?

2. I want to redo my kitchen backsplash. Do I tile from the counter up to the cabinet edges or do I remove the cabinets, tile, and put the cabinets slightly over the tile? Same goes for window casings? Do I need to have a seam/transition between the tile and cabinet, or just grout edge is fine?

3. What's the best grout sealer for kitchen floor grout (spills, etc)?

Thanks!

1. Removal of tile will often require removing the tile and the crack isolation membrane until you get to the actual subfloor. Using a hammer and chisel will work, but just make sure that you wear safety glasses, work gloves, and cover any furniture or items to protect from flying debris. Don't worry about going through the subfloor as your banging away...it's almost impossible to do so.

2. Adding a kitchen backsplash is easy to do and you would start from the top of the countertop and install the mosaic to the bottom side of the cabinets. Removing the cabinets or window casings is not necessary, and "seam/transition" points along the way came be covered with grout. My only suggestion is to use a stone moulding to finish a vertical edge or cut when you get to the end of a line of cabinets. Leaving a mosaic edge would look odd and you would need to use a finishing edge.

3. There are a lot of sealers out there and I would suggest using a commercial grade sealer called Aqua-Mix Sealer's Choice Gold. In my opinion, it is the best sealer in the marketplace and contractors use it for heavy traffic area for commercial applications. This sealer is good for 12 to 15 years....The cheaper varieties will give you coverage for 2 to 3 years.

StonePort
Jul 7th, 2012, 03:21 PM
What's "in style" right now when it comes to backsplashes? I still need to do mine and am looking for ideas :).

Well... There has been a tremendous increase in the amount of different types of backsplashes in the market. I have seen that combinations of glass and stone and just stone mosaics are really "in style" with the colours of white and grey being the most popular.

pingu888
Jul 9th, 2012, 11:26 PM
Just PM'd you.
Tony

zardozeppelin
Jul 10th, 2012, 11:12 PM
Looking to purchase pre-mixed non-sanded grout for a mosaic tile backsplash install...couldn't find at home depot...any input as to where to find would be appreciated.

Manatus
Jul 10th, 2012, 11:44 PM
Firstly, nice store... we got our bathroom floor tile (I think, may have been kitchen tile, too many tiles to remember!) from you guys.

What is the recommended way to clean marble tile? I've heard that "regular" cleaners (like Mr. Clean etc.) will damage the tile over time, as will vinegar due to the acidity. A contractor recommended a heavily diluted dishwashing soap solution. That's probably good enough for the tile itself, but how would you keep the grout lines white?

TheRealVinsanity
Jul 11th, 2012, 08:53 AM
I just had some new kitchen backsplashes installed recently but I'm not really happy with some of the tiles (shifted, not aligned properly). Is there any way I can just take out those pieces and redo them?

ABitOfUltraviolence
Jul 15th, 2012, 10:23 PM
I'm a tile setter by trade and the best place to get them is Stone Tile International 1451 castlefield. If you go there with a contractors discount you can get them really cheap (cheapest in the city actually).

hope this helps


Hi I'm looking for a white bevelled edge white subway kitchen backsplash tile. Any pointers of where I can look for this. It does not seem to be available in any of the big box stores.

chee pass
Jul 15th, 2012, 10:37 PM
what is the expected price that I should pay for labour for a kitchen backsplash, assuming I am using mosaic marble 12x12 sheets for an approx. 30 square foot area. I will need my old backsplash removed.
Thanks

ABitOfUltraviolence
Jul 16th, 2012, 05:26 AM
I charge around $400 tile install only. The removal of the old backspalsh and install of new drywall, is something I would charge time and material.

Hope this helps.


what is the expected price that I should pay for labour for a kitchen backsplash, assuming I am using mosaic marble 12x12 sheets for an approx. 30 square foot area. I will need my old backsplash removed.
Thanks

Mr Nobody
Jul 16th, 2012, 09:23 AM
3. There are a lot of sealers out there and I would suggest using a commercial grade sealer called Aqua-Mix Sealer's Choice Gold. In my opinion, it is the best sealer in the marketplace and contractors use it for heavy traffic area for commercial applications. This sealer is good for 12 to 15 years....The cheaper varieties will give you coverage for 2 to 3 years.

I used this on my granite tiles and it would continue to fail the water drop test. I gave up after about 8 applications. Comments?

Mr Nobody
Jul 18th, 2012, 11:47 AM
Bump.

chimaican
Jul 18th, 2012, 11:58 AM
How difficult is it to remove a kitchen backsplash?

Bought a resale and I kinda hate the run-of-the-mill stone backsplash they installed. Would love to install a glass one that's more modern and complements the kitchen's colours more (the current owners must be colour-blind).

cdarby79
Jul 18th, 2012, 12:04 PM
Hello,

My shower is made with Montauk Black slate. This sunday, I was cleaning the whole bathroom and I had a brain freeze and put some "scrubbing bubble" (it has javel in it) in the shower. I know it's pretty bad and I wash it off not long after I put it there, however it has already stained the slate :( when the slate is dry, i can see white marks.

Is there a way to clean/remove this stuff?

Yesterday (tuesday, 48 hours after I washed with the wrong stuff), I cleaned the tiles with the "Aqua Mix Heavy Duty cleaner". It cleans the slate well, however when it is completly dry, I can still see the white marks. The marks faded a little, but not enough that I dont see it :(

My next step would be to re-seal, using the Aqua-mix Enrich N Seal. I believe this could darken the white marks, maybe so I dont see it anymore.

But before re-sealing, I would like to know if there is maybe another product I could use, to pull off those bleach stains? I read some advices found on google, to mix baking soda with vinegar, but I am not sure.

Am I screwed now? I have some spare slate, but removing those stained ones to put in new one would be messy, and I would like to avoid this if possible...

Thanks,
Charles

StonePort
Jul 31st, 2012, 06:36 PM
Thanks for the comment!

To answer your question, you need to start with a good quality sealer to protect that investment in your marble tiles. There are a variety of products out there, and based on our experiences the Aquamix Sealer`s Choice Gold is the best product in the marketplace. Many commercial projects use this sealer and we have not heard of any complaints in using it. It is not the cheapest product out there, but it is worth every penny!!!

Your contractor is correct in recommending a heavily diluted dishwashing soap solution to use this to clean your marble tile. By having the marble and grout sealed at the same time, your grout should remain white and without issue. It is important to not have standing water and to periodically clean your tile. A regular cleaning regiment should eliminate the chance for your grout to change color, since bacteria will not have an opportunity to colonize and discolour your grout.

I hope that helps...

StonePort
Jul 31st, 2012, 06:54 PM
Granite is a natural product and its ability to absorb a sealer can vary drastically from one type to another.

Not all granite will take a sealer, and there are some types of granite that won`t have a sealer sink in. The purpose behind a sealer is to have it sit below the surface of the stone and deposit solid particles into the pores to coat the individual minerals below. I do not understand why a proper application of this sealer won`t stop water from absorbing...i.e. the sealer failing this water test on your granite.

I have no explanation for this... I suggest you contact Aquamix and explain the situation. Their toll free number is 1-800-272-8786.

A great number of contractors purchase this product and use it without issue, and I am sorry for not being able to provide more information and suggestions on why this sealer is not penetrating the granite and providing protection.

StonePort
Jul 31st, 2012, 07:09 PM
How difficult is it to remove a kitchen backsplash?

Bought a resale and I kinda hate the run-of-the-mill stone backsplash they installed. Would love to install a glass one that's more modern and complements the kitchen's colours more (the current owners must be colour-blind).

There are two options available to you.

1. You can careful chip out the mosaic from the drywall. A hammer, a chisel and a tile scrapper or trowel would be a good start, and make sure that you are wearing safety glasses and gloves. In addition, be careful of flying debris landing on appliances, flooring and kitchen cabinetry that will cause damage.

Start from one corner and work your way around. Ultimately, once you have removed the mosaic you will have to apply a coat of plaster to smooth out areas where portions of the drywall came out along with the mosaic.

2. Remove the drywall along with the mosaic, and then reapply a new sheet of drywall. You will have to remove the old drywall at a vertical stud, so that the new sheet of drywall has somewhere to be screwed on to. After the installation, you will have to plaster the seams between old drywall and new drywall.

Every job is unique and has a variety of factors to consider before you can make the best choice. Questions like how well is the current adhesion level of old mosaic might factor into a choice between options.

I hope that helps...

StonePort
Jul 31st, 2012, 07:16 PM
Hello,

My shower is made with Montauk Black slate. This sunday, I was cleaning the whole bathroom and I had a brain freeze and put some "scrubbing bubble" (it has javel in it) in the shower. I know it's pretty bad and I wash it off not long after I put it there, however it has already stained the slate :( when the slate is dry, i can see white marks.

Is there a way to clean/remove this stuff?

Yesterday (tuesday, 48 hours after I washed with the wrong stuff), I cleaned the tiles with the "Aqua Mix Heavy Duty cleaner". It cleans the slate well, however when it is completly dry, I can still see the white marks. The marks faded a little, but not enough that I dont see it :(

My next step would be to re-seal, using the Aqua-mix Enrich N Seal. I believe this could darken the white marks, maybe so I dont see it anymore.

But before re-sealing, I would like to know if there is maybe another product I could use, to pull off those bleach stains? I read some advices found on google, to mix baking soda with vinegar, but I am not sure.

Am I screwed now? I have some spare slate, but removing those stained ones to put in new one would be messy, and I would like to avoid this if possible...

Thanks,
Charles

I am afraid that I can`t offer a better product or solution to the ones that you have used. I might just try using the heavy duty cleaner one more time, but I am afraid that resolving this problem would be a long shot.

The bleach that you had accidentally applied has dissolved the pigment colour within the actual slate, and those white marks will not disappear.

Sorry about that and I wish I could have been more helpful.

Mr Nobody
Aug 1st, 2012, 01:11 PM
Granite is a natural product and its ability to absorb a sealer can vary drastically from one type to another.

Not all granite will take a sealer, and there are some types of granite that won`t have a sealer sink in. The purpose behind a sealer is to have it sit below the surface of the stone and deposit solid particles into the pores to coat the individual minerals below. I do not understand why a proper application of this sealer won`t stop water from absorbing...i.e. the sealer failing this water test on your granite.

I have no explanation for this... I suggest you contact Aquamix and explain the situation. Their toll free number is 1-800-272-8786.

A great number of contractors purchase this product and use it without issue, and I am sorry for not being able to provide more information and suggestions on why this sealer is not penetrating the granite and providing protection.

Thanks for the honest answer.

For the water test, after 15 minutes, is the water supposed to sit on top of the granite in a bubble, like it would on say a on a glazed ceramic tile?

Its Juparana I believe, if that helps.

http://missourigranitetops.com/images/granitecolors/colombo%20juprana.jpg

gheart008
Aug 1st, 2012, 03:29 PM
Hi folks

There seems to be a great deal of misinformation about the use of different types of tiles for a floor and wall.

Some of those questions are "What's the difference between a ceramic or a porcelain tile?" or "Does marble or granite stain easily?" and "What's the best installation of a floor tile?". If you are building a brand new home or contemplating a renovation and are not sure what types of tiles to use, post the question here and I will answer them.

At least for the first common question you posted, here's all you would ever need to know about the differences and ratings for tiles:

http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/porcelain.or.ceramic.htm

StonePort
Aug 7th, 2012, 01:28 PM
Thanks for the honest answer.

For the water test, after 15 minutes, is the water supposed to sit on top of the granite in a bubble, like it would on say a on a glazed ceramic tile?

Its Juparana I believe, if that helps.

http://missourigranitetops.com/images/granitecolors/colombo%20juprana.jpg


Penetrating sealers provide varying degrees of reactive times based on the quality of the sealer and the density of the natural stone.

As I had stated earlier, every natural stone has different levels of absorption and that can even vary from slab to slab from the same stone type. The sealer that I have recommended is the best quality that I know of, and there are no sealers out there in the marketplace that can provided no water or stain absorption. All the sealer will provide is time from a stain setting into the natural stone. The better quality sealers will provide you with more time to clean or wipe away a stain versus the cheaper variety.

To answer your question, a successful water test would be that the water droplet would sit on top of the surface and evaporate. Water would not absorb into the natural stone at all.

I am sorry for not being able to help any further, and suggest that you contact the manufacturer of the sealer directly and inquire about their product.

a084596
Oct 16th, 2012, 09:07 AM
I have porcelain polished tiles i am installing on kitchen floor. It was recommended by the store that I use fila sealer. Is this necessary and what is the purpose?

johnlupus
Oct 16th, 2012, 11:31 AM
I’m planning to install a kitchen backsplash using tiles. Can anyone recommend a tool for cutting irregular shape tiles such as for a wall outlet. I’m looking for something like an oscillating tool with proper attachments. Any advice would be appreciated.

Mr Nobody
Oct 16th, 2012, 01:49 PM
I’m planning to install a kitchen backsplash using tiles. Can anyone recommend a tool for cutting irregular shape tiles such as for a wall outlet. I’m looking for something like an oscillating tool with proper attachments. Any advice would be appreciated.

What type of tiles? Mosaics or bigger individual tiles?

With mosaics, you just cut the mesh to the general shape you need. Then cut/grind away the individual tiles for the exact shape, either with a wet saw or angle grinder.

Bigger tiles, you can use a wet saw since you're making straight cuts for outlets. To cut a U shape, you cut the sides of the U and then to get rid of the inside, cut it to make it look like the fingers of a comb and snap off the pieces. Or you can use an angle grinder.

Asmegin
Oct 16th, 2012, 01:52 PM
I'm closing on a new construction condo soon, and I wanted to know if I should wait before doing the backsplash. I know they strongly recommend not painting the walls for a year or two due to nail pops and stuff, but would it be okay to do backsplash? I'm assuming so, just wanted to make sure :D

johnlupus
Oct 16th, 2012, 02:15 PM
What type of tiles? Mosaics or bigger individual tiles?

With mosaics, you just cut the mesh to the general shape you need. Then cut/grind away the individual tiles for the exact shape, either with a wet saw or angle grinder.

Bigger tiles, you can use a wet saw since you're making straight cuts for outlets. To cut a U shape, you cut the sides of the U and then to get rid of the inside, cut it to make it look like the fingers of a comb and snap off the pieces. Or you can use an angle grinder.


Are there any other options other than to rent a wet saw and to buy an angle grinder, in order to cut tiles?

Mr Nobody
Oct 16th, 2012, 03:02 PM
Are there any other options other than to rent a wet saw and to buy an angle grinder, in order to cut tiles?

You can buy a wet saw for $60, angle grinder probably for $40. Are you trying to use a rotary tool or jigsaw that you already have? You could get a diamond jigsaw blade but you're going to have a hard time holding down the tile.

You will need to make edge cuts for the backsplash as well, not just the cut for the outlet, so might as well get a better tool for the job.

johnlupus
Oct 16th, 2012, 04:05 PM
You can buy a wet saw for $60, angle grinder probably for $40. Are you trying to use a rotary tool or jigsaw that you already have? You could get a diamond jigsaw blade but you're going to have a hard time holding down the tile.

You will need to make edge cuts for the backsplash as well, not just the cut for the outlet, so might as well get a better tool for the job.

I already have a manual tile cutter, so I'll consider a $60 wet saw. Thanks.

js321
Oct 16th, 2012, 04:09 PM
I want to install new kitchen backsplashes on old tiles over drywall. Do I need to replace the drywall after removing the old tiles before installing new one?

rc813
Oct 16th, 2012, 07:25 PM
I wanted to install a backsplash in the kitchen however when I place a level against the drywall it seems the wall is slightly concave by about a quarter inch or so.

How would you level the drywall as I imagine installing the tiles on the concave wall would look bad since it the backsplash would not be close to level.

Do I make the wall as level as possible using layers of compound before starting tiling?

Thanks in advance for your response

Mr Nobody
Oct 17th, 2012, 03:38 PM
I'm nitpicking, but its "flat" not "level". If this were the floor where a larger tile was used, you could probably adjust with thinset, but assuming that backsplashes use smaller tiles, using compound to make the wall flat would be a good idea. I'm thinking apply primer to the patched area before tiling too.

rc813
Oct 17th, 2012, 10:28 PM
Thanks mr nobody

When you say to use compound to make the wall flat should I build up thin layers allowing them to dry in between layers until its flat or just one thick layer and let it dry before priming? Or does it not matter which way I do it.

Maymybonneliveforever
Oct 18th, 2012, 07:45 AM
rc813:

If you feel you're capable and it's only 1/4" that needs to be filled in than I would do one pass and double check to make sure it's flat before it starts to dry. This should help with any possible lippage problems when it comes time to install the tiles.

johnlupus
Oct 18th, 2012, 08:40 AM
Can anyone suggest a place which sells kitchen wall tiles. I'm looking for a store which has a large selection and low prices. I'd prefer a location in the east end of the GTA, Scarborough, East York, Markham areas. Places such as Home Depot don't have a wide variety. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Mr Nobody
Oct 18th, 2012, 09:44 AM
rc813:

If you feel you're capable and it's only 1/4" that needs to be filled in than I would do one pass and double check to make sure it's flat before it starts to dry. This should help with any possible lippage problems when it comes time to install the tiles.

You still want to sand after its dry, but yeah if you can get it as close to what you want, then there's less sanding required.

TLSRULZ
Oct 18th, 2012, 02:35 PM
I want to install new kitchen backsplashes on old tiles over drywall. Do I need to replace the drywall after removing the old tiles before installing new one?
Yea I want to know as well.. But I'm assuming to get the old tile off I'll take some of the drywall with it !

Maymybonneliveforever
Oct 18th, 2012, 02:53 PM
If when removing the existing tiles the drywall has been damaged then it needs to be repaired to the point that it's providing a good base which is straight and sufficient to be a good substrate for which ever tile you are reinstalling. If it can not be repaired then it needs to be replaced, but in some cases depending on which thinset/mastic was used previously as well as installation techniques, it may come off easily which is good in one sense but not a good installation originally.

Do you get my drift?

leonk
Oct 18th, 2012, 10:38 PM
My wife and I have spent months trying to find a backsplash for our kitchen. The cabinets are off white (antique white) and the granite counter has a cream base with different veins. The color is a bit in the yellow shade at some spots - it was an expensive custom install. The wall color is grey.

We initially thought of stone backsplash, but since the counter is so busy, it makes sense to have a more solid backsplash. But because the cabinets/counter are based on different white shade, it's impossible for us to find something that matches.

After a lot of searching, we stumbled on something that actually matches, looks modern and great. 4x6 stainless steel caped tile.

What is your opinion on using SS for backsplash? What can I use to cut it around outlets/window molding?

Maymybonneliveforever
Oct 19th, 2012, 08:24 AM
What is your opinion on using SS for backsplash? What can I use to cut it around outlets/window molding?Considering I have no idea what the tile looks like and there are many different grades and styles of stainless, in general stainless has a grain which scratches easily. Yes it can be buffed out but is somewhat labour intensive. Depending on the gauge and style you can cut with a really this disc using an angle grinder or saw and I would practice a couple cuts first.

As for does it match or my opinion of style, it's personal preference.