PC not starting up right away

[RemedialChaosTheory]

So for the last week nearly, every time I click on my desktop nothing happens. I make sure all the cables are tight, etc, try and still no go for about 5 minutes.

I currently have it plugged into a power bar which I click off at night that is shared with a lamp, monitor, and printer. The power bar goes into a wall outlet shared with a 5000 btu AC, which I usually run all night and shut off before clicking on the power bar in the morning. At first I thought maybe it was because I had the AC directed towards the area the computer is in and it was making it too cold to start up (the plate on the back was really cold when I felt it one morning). I've since switched the direction the AC blows in and moved the PC higher, but it's the same thing every morning. Also, I can run the AC during the day/evening when the PC is still on and it doesn't affect it.

Any suggestions? It's an Acer bought in Oct 2009 from http://forums.redflagdeals.com/warm-cc-acer-dual-core-4-gb-640-gb-hdmi-pc-w-free-windows-7-upgrade-349-99-a-804838/this deal if that helps.

Update july 13 - See below

[xalex0]

I suspect that's a capacitor issue.

[DavidY]

Did you run your virus scanner, malware detector, etc?

Run CCleaner, Advanced System Care, Toolwiz, etc.

Maybe your PS needs replacement.

Dave

[yeahoo88]

Might be a power supply issue. If you have a extra power supply, plug it in to test. If not, better find some professional to check for you

[RemedialChaosTheory]

Thanks for all the replies. It won't turn on at all now. I've tried various things to get it going like a different power bar or direct to outlet and none worked, so it seems for sure to be an issue with the computer, and as you all said the PSU specifically.

Any suggestions on ways to check for sure if it's the PSU? Is there any chance something could just be loose on it? I don't drive, so I'd like lugging it to a repair place to be the last resort if I can.

Failing all that, any recomendations for a PSU? Preferably one I can buy or price match at FutureShop? And do I need any special tools aside from a screwdriver to install it? I've installes a few things before but never a power supply so I'm a bit clueless here and googling isn't the easiest on my phone.
thanks again.

[aeolus811tw]

click on desktop as in your pc booted but your desktop stays blank? or your computer simply does not turn on?

if it's the latter

to have more specific detail of checking pc problem, would need to know the following:
- mobo model
- psu model
- cpu model

it could be the case of power cable connecting case to your mobo is loose (it happens)
or it could be the case that psu is blown
or it could be the case that cpu isn't being cooled (without cooling, cpu can shoot up to a pretty high temperature at start)
or it could be the case that your mobo does not detect a graphic card / RAM
or it could be you have a defected RAM mixed within
...etc

there can be many reasons

[DavidY]

Thanks for all the replies. It won't turn on at all now. I've tried various things to get it going like a different power bar or direct to outlet and none worked, so it seems for sure to be an issue with the computer, and as you all said the PSU specifically.

Any suggestions on ways to check for sure if it's the PSU? Is there any chance something could just be loose on it? I don't drive, so I'd like lugging it to a repair place to be the last resort if I can.

Failing all that, any recomendations for a PSU? Preferably one I can buy or price match at FutureShop? And do I need any special tools aside from a screwdriver to install it? I've installes a few things before but never a power supply so I'm a bit clueless here and googling isn't the easiest on my phone.
thanks again.

Did you check all cable connectors? That is always the first thing to check for any non-working computer.

If you have no plans to make significant upgrades, you should be fine with a 400 watt PS like the 80 Plus Bronze Certified Antec HCG-400 (Seasonic...a well known PS brand). $39 at CC.

FS typically sells lower PS brands like Startech and some Antec (some models are not as good as others)...most are likely not 80 Plus certified. FS PS start at $35. You are better off getting a quality brand/model instead. Get a pricematch to CC's price if possible.

http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/part/antec-power-supply-hcg400

Others have recommended Corsair Builder's Series (V.2 only):

http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/part/corsair-power-supply-cmpsu430cxv2

How to install PS...skip to start time of 7:24: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvClS_M-09o Watch for existing cables to the existing PS...you will need to reconnect them to the new PS.

[RemedialChaosTheory]

thanks again for the replies. its the latter, aeolus. for a week now i'd press the power button and nothing would happen until about 5 minutes later and the 9th press. sometimes it would kick on a second or 2 after i'd press it even. today, nothing. pushed tje button a dozen times or more ovee the course of 2 hours.

i just opened it up, blew air into it to clear up some dust, and pushed everything i could see to make sure theyre conmected tight and it still won't power.

thanks for the video and links but looking inside this now i think its a bit above my level of expertise :lol: so new question is any recomedations for computer repairer in Ottawa, preferably near South Keys?

thanks again. and sorry for the typos and horrible punctuatn. using phone.

[xalex0]

Any suggestions on ways to check for sure if it's the PSU? Is there any chance something could just be loose on it?
Try one that works. if you don't have a spare then either borrow or buy one.

If you need to be more certain and are handy with electronics then you can test the PSU:
Turn off the PSU power switch
Disconnect the motherboard and PCIe power connectors.
Do not disconnect the power from the drives (to give some load to the PSU)
Turn on the PSU power switch
Next you will be working with the big motherboard power connector: http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF
If you have a multimeter: measure voltage between +5VSB (purple wire) and ground (any black wire) It should be 5V. Otherwise, the PSU is dead.
Put a jumper wire between PS_ON (green wire) and ground (any black wire). The power supply should turn on. Otherwise, it's dead.

Alternatively, you can remove the cover from the PSU (unplug it first and don't touch anything inside!). Then look if any electrolytic capacitors are bulging or leaking, like this:
http://www.markdigital.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/bulging_capacitors.jpg

[DavidY]

thanks again for the replies. its the latter, aeolus. for a week now i'd press the power button and nothing would happen until about 5 minutes later and the 9th press. sometimes it would kick on a second or 2 after i'd press it even. today, nothing. pushed tje button a dozen times or more ovee the course of 2 hours.

i just opened it up, blew air into it to clear up some dust, and pushed everything i could see to make sure theyre conmected tight and it still won't power.

thanks for the video and links but looking inside this now i think its a bit above my level of expertise :lol: so new question is any recomedations for computer repairer in Ottawa, preferably near South Keys?

thanks again. and sorry for the typos and horrible punctuatn. using phone.

At least you can open up the case to see what's up. Do you know anyone who is somewhat technical? It's low end technical work. Just buy a good power supply (see my previous post) and have the "techie" put it in for you....I am sure he/she can do it for a case of beer or the like. ;) Acer desktops typically have low wattage PS....my understanding is it's a 250 watt for this model....probably a lower brand too.

Dave

[RemedialChaosTheory]

thankns david and xalex. unfortunatley i'm the technically inclined one in all my circles so...

powe supply is fsp group inc i think? does CC do instals?

xalex i have no idea how to get the cover off wthout removing the whole psu which i dont think i want to mess with but thanks for the suggestion

[aeolus811tw]

thanks again for the replies. its the latter, aeolus. for a week now i'd press the power button and nothing would happen until about 5 minutes later and the 9th press. sometimes it would kick on a second or 2 after i'd press it even. today, nothing. pushed tje button a dozen times or more ovee the course of 2 hours.

i just opened it up, blew air into it to clear up some dust, and pushed everything i could see to make sure theyre conmected tight and it still won't power.

thanks for the video and links but looking inside this now i think its a bit above my level of expertise :lol: so new question is any recomedations for computer repairer in Ottawa, preferably near South Keys?

thanks again. and sorry for the typos and horrible punctuatn. using phone.

if that's the situation then it simply means one of the few scenarios:
1. your front panel cable connection to your mobo has become loose, not in a sense that it isn't connected but because of the quality of the cabling and environmental surrounding caused a coating of oxidized deposit layer (take out the front panel cables and reinsert them should fix this)
Front panel cable looks something like this: http://www.build-your-own-computer.net/image-files/computer-wiring-01.jpg

2. you blew a capacitor in your PSU (this would require taking apart your PSU to confirm)

3. you have a busted RAM

4. static electricity

5. cabling in your house is not proper, the outlet AC fluctuate too much that your PSU could not convert enough juice to power up your PC

[xalex0]

xalex i have no idea how to get the cover off wthout removing the whole psu
Yes, it requires removing the PSU. It's just 4 screws, though.
And even if you get a new PSU, you will have to do it anyway.
If you are not comfortable with this then you can't do much more. You will need to get it looked at by a repairman.

[RemedialChaosTheory]

www.4gp.tw/bar/1342221630104.jpg
not sure if that'll help but thats inside.

aelos for 1. i dont see anything inside that looks like that. for 3. wouldn.t it at least power on? theres 2 sticks in there so wouldnt both have to be dead? for 4. how would statit effect it and how would i know? and for 5. its been fine for 2.5 years. i moved it to a new area and outlet April 1 though but have had no issue till this week. Air conditioner has been in use since late may on same outlet but i always turn it off about 5-10 minutes before turning on PC. i run both at same time later in day and no issues either. Thanks again

[DavidY]

www.4gp.tw/bar/1342221630104.jpg
not sure if that'll help but thats inside.

aelos for 1. i dont see anything inside that looks like that. for 3. wouldn.t it at least power on? theres 2 sticks in there so wouldnt both have to be dead? for 4. how would statit effect it and how would i know? and for 5. its been fine for 2.5 years. i moved it to a new area and outlet April 1 though but have had no issue till this week. Air conditioner has been in use since late may on same outlet but i always turn it off about 5-10 minutes before turning on PC. i run both at same time later in day and no issues either. Thanks again

Based on google, FSP makes good and bad PS. Here are the specs on FSP300-60THA: http://www.fspgroupusa.com/fsp30060tha/p/565.html It's 300 watts. When I had google the Acer model, I got a 250 watt power supply.

This PS isn't 80 Plus certified. Most good PS are usually at least 80 Plus certified (Bronze or better IMO).

Dave

[infamouskid]

my guess is the psu or the front case power connector to the power button is faulty.
if you have another computer or a friend or nieghbour psu you can borrow to test. try testing his or her psu in your rig.
then try your mobo in his case to confirm. worst case scenario is a cap on the mobo is trying out or worst case about to pop and leaking.

[DavidY]

Changing the mobo will take the longest....eliminate the graphics card and PS first and second (second or first). Mobo change would be #3 on my list...or have the OP take close up pics of all the caps on the mobo.

Edit: Looks like onboard video since I don't see a graphics card. Onboard video can fail on occasion. Have you tried starting up the computer and see if any lights become lit or fans spining (leave the cover off and start it up)...or is it completely dead?

Dave

[aeolus811tw]

www.4gp.tw/bar/1342221630104.jpg
not sure if that'll help but thats inside.

aelos for 1. i dont see anything inside that looks like that. for 3. wouldn.t it at least power on? theres 2 sticks in there so wouldnt both have to be dead? for 4. how would statit effect it and how would i know? and for 5. its been fine for 2.5 years. i moved it to a new area and outlet April 1 though but have had no issue till this week. Air conditioner has been in use since late may on same outlet but i always turn it off about 5-10 minutes before turning on PC. i run both at same time later in day and no issues either. Thanks again

1. judging from your picture your front panel cable should be around the area of your SATA ports

3. on the present day computer, if you have a RAM / GPU / CPU / CPU FAN / PSU problem, even if there are multiple components, if one fails the pc will not turn on (this is for safety reasons)

4. static electricity usually occurs when the weather is dry or machine is in A/C room. With tower (your case) being placed on the carpet or nearby cotton products. This can often leave your machine behave weirdly such as what you've been experienced. This can be solved if you have keep your pc off for a while with outlet not connected. (though modern computer isn't as susceptible to static electricity as pc made 3 years ago)

5. this was suggested because my girl friend had similar problem before, and after voltage check on the outlet we found out that the specific outlet has current fluctuation issues due to faulty cabling. The option for this was either redo the wiring of that room or use a UPS to normalize the power. But this is the most expensive scenario, hence I put it as last and fifth option. (a lot of times wiring issue does not occur immediately but only over a period of time)

altho after seeing your components, I'm leaning towards busted capacitor in PSU / faulty wires.

[RemedialChaosTheory]

thanks everyone. i've looked atall the caps on the mobo and no bulging or leaking from what i can see. I dont think any friends or family would be comfy with me borrowing their psu lol so i'll just buy one from CC and test. after giving it a better look i should be able to manage with photos or a drawn map of whwre to plug everything back in.

everyone fine with dave's suggested PSUs? open to more suggestions within the 40$ range if not

[RemedialChaosTheory]

completely dead dave

[aeolus811tw]

basically any PSU would suffice. As long as it can power your CPU and provide enough juice for your graphic card.
Feel free to take a look at CanadaComputer weekend deal or NCIX weekly special.

personally I've only come to trust coolermaster / antec / ocz PSU (ocz needs to pick model)
but my friend's crappy 9 dollar PSU from a noname brand held up for 6 years already so I can't object to other brands.

[xalex0]

This PS isn't 80 Plus certified. Most good PS are usually at least 80 Plus certified (Bronze or better IMO).
I don't think that many OEMs would care about getting the 80+ certification for PSUs. Not in 2009, anyway.

[DavidY]

I don't think that many OEMs would care about getting the 80+ certification for PSUs. Not in 2009, anyway.

I agree. Probably the same now for mass market PCs. They are typically only 220-300 watts and of course, cheap.

Dave

[DavidY]

everyone fine with dave's suggested PSUs? open to more suggestions within the 40$ range if not

My rankings in the sub $40 range for 400 watt PS are (all three are 80 Plus Certified or better)...all three are ~$39 at CC:

1. Antec HCG-400 (Seasonic...very well known PS brand for quality). Some models are a little noisier than others. Bronze certified.
2 (tied). Corsair CX430V2 (CWT)
2 (tied). Cooler Master RS450-ACAAD3-US (Enhance). Bronze certified.

Avoid Logisys, Coolmax, HEC, Startech...these are often cheap...found to over rate their wattages.http://

Here's a roundup of cheap PS:

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6013/350450w-roundup-11-cheap-psus/

Dave

[soniko]

omg..i have the same issue these few weeks, computer wont turn on ...or reboot couple times before it acts normal.....
only happened the last few weeks.......what happened??

[xalex0]

omg..i have the same issue these few weeks, computer wont turn on ...or reboot couple times before it acts normal.....
only happened the last few weeks.......what happened??It's getting there. Better find a fix before it's completely dead. Computers don't normally get well on their own.

[lostintransit]

if it turns out just to be a powersupply issue , make sure you do like aeolus said. Don't plug an aircon into the same outlet. I suspect that's what killed your computer/psu.
Buy a ups for your (new)computer. I suspect your computer is dead , not just the powersupply.

[soniko]

It's getting there. Better find a fix before it's completely dead. Computers don't normally get well on their own.

4 years old already...planning to get a new one...lol

[xalex0]

planning to get a new one...lolThat qualifies as a fix.

[aeolus811tw]

4 years old already...planning to get a new one...lol

4 years for a desktop is still like adulthood age.
if it dies this early, it only means you probably never perform proper maintenance or the components you got are pretty low graded.

[RemedialChaosTheory]

Would this be overkill http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=35456&vpn=OCZ700MXSP&manufacture=OCZ%20Technology&promoid=1207 ? After mail-in rebate it'd be just a couple bucks more than the others since it has free shipping and they don't. Edit: nevermind, just saw it's for modular with short cables.

So this http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=60491&promoid=1207 for $34

Or the corsair Dave recommended (your #1 antec is sold out at CC and too much elsewhere) http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_442&item_id=038031

[DavidY]

Would this be overkill http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=35456&vpn=OCZ700MXSP&manufacture=OCZ%20Technology&promoid=1207 ? After mail-in rebate it'd be just a couple bucks more than the others since it has free shipping and they don't. Edit: nevermind, just saw it's for modular with short cables.

So this http://ncix.ca/products/?sku=60491&promoid=1207 for $34

Or the corsair Dave recommended (your #1 antec is sold out at CC and too much elsewhere) http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_442&item_id=038031

Either Antec Neo Eco 450 (Seasonic) for $34.99 or Corsair CX430V2 for $39.99 (PM with CC) should be fine...both are 80 Plus certified. NOTE: The Corsair can only handle 28 amps (vs. 34 amps for Antec)...higher amps is better. Corsair CX Builder's Series is often recommended by others as a budget priced PS. So each has it's pros and cons. :) EDIT: Slight edge to Antec since it's a Seasonic and has more amps....keep your fingers crossed that it's NOT a loud Seasonic...some Seasonic are noisy.

Corsair CX430V2 review by JonnyGuru...total score of 9/10: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=239

XFX 450 Core Edition Pro Series at $44.99 after $10 MIR (Bronze certified). 34 amps. Jonnyguru gives it a 8.5/10. http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=224

How's that for standing on the fence. :D

Dave

[RemedialChaosTheory]

Thanks. Went with the Antec.

[RemedialChaosTheory]

also, got the cover off psu and one of the medium sized caps in the middle was bulged. Good sign that it was my psu I hope?

[xalex0]

also, got the cover off psu and one of the medium sized caps in the middle was bulged. Good sign that it was my psu I hope?Correct. Hopefully, the resulting abnormal output didn't have a lasting effect on other components.

[lostintransit]

you know its highly dangerous taking the case off a psu, even when it is unplugged..

[xalex0]

you know its highly dangerous taking the case off a psu, even when it is unplugged.. a) If you are careful and don't touch anything, you'll be fine. b) Bleeder resistor takes care of any residual charge. c) even if you touch it while plugged in, it's unlikely to kill you on the spot.

[RemedialChaosTheory]

Got the Antec, figured out how to put it in, and it turned on fine. Thanks everyone.