Need your help on facuet installation ... help!

[ahson]

We're hoping to replace the faucet in our kitchen but the problem is the current water supply lines (hot/cold) are welded instead of the nut screw kind of type that I see on the new faucet. What should I do in this case in order to replace the faucet? I am confused

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2899/supplylines2.jpg
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8145/supplylines1.jpg

[dealman5]

Cut the copper and then put new shut off compression fittings, and then attach with new braided hose...no welding required

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/installshutoffvalve#b

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0UW5QHRg34

[Rehan]

We're hoping to replace the faucet in our kitchen but the problem is the current water supply lines (hot/cold) are welded instead of the nut screw kind of type that I see on the new faucet. What should I do in this case in order to replace the faucet? I am confused Buy a pipe cutter (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/brasscraft-mini-tube-cutter-1-8-7-8-od/909059) and a couple of valves (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/3-8-fem-comp-x-3-8-od-comp-straight-plated-retrofit-valve/959982) at your local hardware store, and that will give you both a place to attach the faucet's lines and a way to turn off the water there if needed. Turn off the main water supply in your house while you're doing the work.

[ahson]

Updated with pics for your reference. Thanks

[ahson]

Cut the copper and then put new shut off compression fittings, and then attach with new braided hose...no welding required

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/installshutoffvalve#b

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0UW5QHRg34

If you see the picture that I just posted, isn't the the water supply line already got their shutoff valve? Can I still add one more to it as you mentioned? Thanks

[ahson]

Can anyone give me some clarifications on my question? Thanks!

[crimsondr]

Cut the copper after the shutoff and add the compression fittings.

[synaptech]

or you could call a plumber...

[dibksbgon]

or you could call a plumber...

This may be advisable for OP. Or a friend.

Personally, it is a really quick job if you know what you are doing.

[Mr Nobody]

Can anyone give me some clarifications on my question? Thanks!

Yes, you can cut as recommended and add a second valve that has screw on connectors. Personally, if I was doing it, I'd cut removing the existing valves as well and solder on new piping, coupling and ball valves for a cleaner look. Assuming there's enough copper left before hitting the plastic piping, which it looks like there is.

The hot water side may be a little trickier to remove the valve since you'd need to add a piece of piping with a coupler to make it meet back up since there's the Tee connection with the second valve (dishwasher?). There's also not much room to cut before the Tee either if trying to keep the valves.

[Mr Nobody]

And technically, you can reuse those welded copper lines and connect them directly to the new faucets, assuming they are in good condition and the fittings fit. Replacing with braided SS would be better though.

[hitman_24]

Based on what I see this looks like a condo.
If you aren't confident then I suggest you call a plumber, as you would be held liable for damages if something were to go wrong.

If I were you I would just cut the 3/8" copper lines and purchase 3/8" compression coupling which can adapt to the faucet supply hose, as well as the bare 3/8" copper supply. (I am only suggesting this as there is no "meat" left on the 1/2" line where it is reduced to 3/8" for the faucet, and tee's off to the dishwasher supply



And technically, you can reuse those welded copper lines and connect them directly to the new faucets, assuming they are in good condition and the fittings fit. Replacing with braided SS would be better though.

Just an FYI, copper plumbing isn't welded, it is soldered


Yes, you can cut as recommended and add a second valve that has screw on connectors. Personally, if I was doing it, I'd cut removing the existing valves as well and solder on new piping, coupling and ball valves for a cleaner look. Assuming there's enough copper left before hitting the plastic piping, which it looks like there is.

The hot water side may be a little trickier to remove the valve since you'd need to add a piece of piping with a coupler to make it meet back up since there's the Tee connection with the second valve (dishwasher?). There's also not much room to cut before the Tee either if trying to keep the valves.

This appears to be a condo so cutting out those valves would require the building shutting down the risers for that floor, which I highly doubt they will do if those valves work, just to achieve a cleaner look
Also there is not enough room to do that as soldering that close to the pex/al/pex piping will damage it

[sleepyguy]

shut off valves.
cut copper with cutter (spins)
clean up fittings
install compression fittings. very easy... done it tons of times.

[synaptech]

BTW - you will want to test the shut offs BEFORE doing any cutting. Different valves than yours, but the previous owner of my place must have over heated the valves when soldering them because they were seized. However, the handle still turned. Very bad combination - moreso in a condo.

[Zamboni]

That valve looks like it can be taken apart? If so the copper pipe could be cut a few inches from the valve then the 'nut' on the valve the pipe is soldered to removed....a new fitting threaded onto the valve that will mate with a braided line compression fitting.

I'm no plumber but its worth a try if those valves do come apart....OP could take the peice he threads out to Home Depot/plumbing supply store to ensure he gets proper pipe fitting that accepts braided line connector and fits into the valve.

[Mr Nobody]

Just an FYI, copper plumbing isn't welded, it is soldered

Obviously just a mix up of words during quick editing. I used "solder" earlier.

I do my own plumbing (and everything else). Have reworked lots of copper and ABS. I wouldn't be giving advice otherwise.

[Avalonboy]

We're hoping to replace the faucet in our kitchen but the problem is the current water supply lines (hot/cold) are welded instead of the nut screw kind of type that I see on the new faucet. What should I do in this case in order to replace the faucet? I am confused

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/2899/supplylines2.jpg
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/8145/supplylines1.jpg

so it looks like your supply is on the right, and the connections to your new faucet would be on the left. And you already have shutoffs.
The T-connect is probably to your d/w if it's hot, or to an icemaker if it's cold. I think you just need to shutoff the water at the shutoffs,
cut off the soldered connections, and as others have suggested, use compression fittings that fit the nut on your new faucet. Or soldered fittings if you're inclined to solder. Leave the T-connect alone as you're not changing anything there.

[gheart008]

Yes, you can cut as recommended and add a second valve that has screw on connectors. Personally, if I was doing it, I'd cut removing the existing valves as well and solder on new piping, coupling and ball valves for a cleaner look. Assuming there's enough copper left before hitting the plastic piping, which it looks like there is.

The hot water side may be a little trickier to remove the valve since you'd need to add a piece of piping with a coupler to make it meet back up since there's the Tee connection with the second valve (dishwasher?). There's also not much room to cut before the Tee either if trying to keep the valves.

I agree. I will never use compression fittings again after one failed on me causing quite the flood. Soldering to me is the only way to go as I just don't trust those compression fittings anymore.

[Concrete5]

The cold water line appears that you have space to to cut the copper line after the shut off and add on a compression shut off as described by others. If you do this, having two shut offs is not an issue. However, the hot water line appears like you have very little space to do that, and may have to cut prior to the T that runs to your faucet & likely your dishwasher.

If able to do so, I would shut off water to the whole house, rather than just the shut off at the kitchen sink. This will allow you to cut the blue pex tubing prior to the kitchen shut off (to the right of the Kitchen sink shut-off in the picture), then you can then crimp on a pex shut off like this:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/1-2-inch-pex-x-3-8-inch-compression-straight-mini-ball-valve/954472

All you will need is a crimping tool (which can be rented @ Home Depot) that should come with a crimp gauge or a "go/no-go gauge", the small shut off with crimp ring (I would use a brass ring style crimper rather than solid steel clamp). You then use a braided hose from the shut off to the kitchen sink.

As for the hot water line, it will be a bit different due to the fact that you have a copper line that appears to go beneath the cabinet and likely to your dishwasher. On this line, you could cut the red pex tubing, as well as below the T to the dishwasher. You will have to decide if you want to cut below or above the shut off and whether you are replacing that shut-off). You will add a union or "pex coupling" to the red pex line and add on additional pex tubing. The union costs about a buck, plus you will need a pex T with another shut off going towards the faucet. Below the T, you will need some more pex (and a shut off if you are replacing the shut off), as well as a copper to pex adapter. The copper to Pex adapter will have to be soldered on to the copper, so you will need a few tools to either buy or rent from Home Depot if you don't have them.

If this sounds like too much, perhaps hire a plumber or handyman to come in and do it. It shouldn't take that long to do it...probably an hour labour at most.

[hitman_24]

If able to do so, I would shut off water to the whole house, rather than just the shut off at the kitchen sink. This will allow you to cut the blue pex tubing prior to the kitchen shut off (to the right of the Kitchen sink shut-off in the picture), then you can then crimp on a pex shut off like this:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/1-2-inch-pex-x-3-8-inch-compression-straight-mini-ball-valve/954472

All you will need is a crimping tool (which can be rented @ Home Depot) that should come with a crimp gauge or a "go/no-go gauge", the small shut off with crimp ring (I would use a brass ring style crimper rather than solid steel clamp). You then use a braided hose from the shut off to the kitchen sink.

As for the hot water line, it will be a bit different due to the fact that you have a copper line that appears to go beneath the cabinet and likely to your dishwasher. On this line, you could cut the red pex tubing, as well as below the T to the dishwasher. You will have to decide if you want to cut below or above the shut off and whether you are replacing that shut-off). You will add a union or "pex coupling" to the red pex line and add on additional pex tubing. The union costs about a buck, plus you will need a pex T with another shut off going towards the faucet. Below the T, you will need some more pex (and a shut off if you are replacing the shut off), as well as a copper to pex adapter. The copper to Pex adapter will have to be soldered on to the copper, so you will need a few tools to either buy or rent from Home Depot if you don't have them.

If this sounds like too much, perhaps hire a plumber or handyman to come in and do it. It shouldn't take that long to do it...probably an hour labour at most.

That is not PEX piping
It is PEX/AL/PEX commonly referred to in the trade as Kitec. It is commonly used in radiant heat applications and in newer condos.
Different fittings and different tools are used for this piping and are not available at Home Depot


There aren't any more suggestions needed in this thread.

[flyclothing514]

just use compression fittings, and put some plumbers dope on the threads. might be better to get a plumber cause buying 40$ copper cutters for a one time thing is kind of a waste.

[hitman_24]

just use compression fittings, and put some plumbers dope on the threads. might be better to get a plumber cause buying 40$ copper cutters for a one time thing is kind of a waste.

Just an FYI, putting dope on the threads of a compression fitting does absolutely nothing as the thread is not what creates the seal.
A compression fitting is exactly that, the ferrule is compressed between the nut and the receiving fitting creating a water tight seal.

[flyclothing514]

Just an FYI, putting dope on the threads of a compression fitting does absolutely nothing as the thread is not what creates the seal.
A compression fitting is exactly that, the ferrule is compressed between the nut and the receiving fitting creating a water tight seal.

i know what an compression fitting is Mr.plumber. i just like to put dope on threads to add an extra layer of protection against leaks. cause often times the "ferrule" doesnt come in perfect condition, sometimes their warped,chipped. i even sometimes put some teflon tape around the ferrule and pipe.

[hitman_24]

i know what an compression fitting is Mr.plumber. i just like to put dope on threads to add an extra layer of protection against leaks. cause often times the "ferrule" doesnt come in perfect condition, sometimes their warped,chipped. i even sometimes put some teflon tape around the ferrule and pipe.

Might wants to explain when speaking to newbies who would think that the dope makes the seal, when in fact what you are suggesting, is a band aid type solution to damaged parts.


Nothing against your suggestion, There's just too many unqualified Joe Handymen in these threads that give out misinformation, I just had to make sure.

[jonnyb]

Might wants to explain when speaking to newbies who would think that the dope makes the seal, when in fact what you are suggesting, is a band aid type solution to damaged parts.
Nothing against your suggestion, There's just too many unqualified Joe Handymen in these threads that give out misinformation, I just had to make sure.

Does a can of pipe dope not say "Pipe Thread Sealant" directly on it? I also apply a small amount of dope to the underside of the ferrule before putting the pipe into the receiving fitting to aid in making the seal. I'm not saying the dope makes the seal by itself but I've found over the thousands of sinks that I have installed it does aid in preventing small leaks. Even with the best intentions "the added layer of protection" doesn't hurt.
Take a black union for example, although it is brand new when installed the odds of it developing a small leak are pretty good in my experience. Why would one not use their knowledge and expertise to prevent that by applying some dope to the face of the union to prevent such a problem? Are you applying a band-aid to a damaged part? No, you are simply installing it to the best of your ability.

[dealman5]

just use compression fittings, and put some plumbers dope on the threads. might be better to get a plumber cause buying 40$ copper cutters for a one time thing is kind of a waste.

You can buy tube cutters for around 10 dollars
http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/15814.T004_4.jpg

[hitman_24]

Does a can of pipe dope not say "Pipe Thread Sealant" directly on it? I also apply a small amount of dope to the underside of the ferrule before putting the pipe into the receiving fitting to aid in making the seal. I'm not saying the dope makes the seal by itself but I've found over the thousands of sinks that I have installed it does aid in preventing small leaks. Even with the best intentions "the added layer of protection" doesn't hurt.
Take a black union for example, although it is brand new when installed the odds of it developing a small leak are pretty good in my experience. Why would one not use their knowledge and expertise to prevent that by applying some dope to the face of the union to prevent such a problem? Are you applying a band-aid to a damaged part? No, you are simply installing it to the best of your ability.

I also apply dope to the ferrul when dealing with compression fittings, I was just clearing up the fact that he said to put it on the threads, which in this case would accomplish nothing.