Buying a USED sports car/coupe -- any telltale signs?

[Supercooled]

Car in question is a 2005 'faitherweather' sports car/coupe with 50,000km. New tires (driven hard?) I'm in the early stages of reading/researching. What is a good site for Ontario? i.e I Googled and it came out with ICBC. It lists some things to look for like even tire wear. Pushing down on one side of the car and see if it bounces after for signs of imbalanced shock absorbers. Inspect the body for dimples, uneven paint, imperfections for recent bodywork done. I seem to recall one way of seeing if there is some patching done by running a magnet?



So any other sites/suggestions I should query in my search?

I don't want to divulge the link to the car but if you're resourceful enough, you can probably figure it out. Also the owner of the car may be a member here and they may be tipped off. And some entrepreneurial individual may beat me to the punch and sell it higher than it is now.

[coriolis]

Car in question is a 2005 'faitherweather' sports car/coupe with 50,000km. New tires (driven hard?) I'm in the early stages of reading/researching. What is a good site for Ontario? i.e I Googled and it came out with ICBC. It lists some things to look for like even tire wear. Pushing down on one side of the car and see if it bounces after for signs of imbalanced shock absorbers. Inspect the body for dimples, uneven paint, imperfections for recent bodywork done. I seem to recall one way of seeing if there is some patching done by running a magnet?

So any other sites/suggestions I should query in my search?

I don't want to divulge the link to the car but if you're resourceful enough, you can probably figure it out. Also the owner of the car may be a member here and they may be tipped off. And some entrepreneurial individual may beat me to the punch and sell it higher than it is now.

350z?

Carproof would be a good idea, take it to a mechanic or a local garage that specializes in the manufacturer brand.

[Supercooled]

350z?

Carproof would be a good idea, take it to a mechanic or a local garage that specializes in the manufacturer brand.

I'm looking for tips for the pre-mechanic inspection. They cost money and I don't want to waste my time/money if I can determine if the car isn't verbatim to what the owner says it is. And I'll ask for a Carproof and UVIP and may be go look at it. There shouldn't be any rust if the car is a non-winter car, right?

[poedua]

I'm looking for tips for the pre-mechanic inspection. They cost money and I don't want to waste my time/money if I can determine if the car isn't verbatim to what the owner says it is. And I'll ask for a Carproof and UVIP and may be go look at it. There shouldn't be any rust if the car is a non-winter car, right?

If anything, it's quite the contrary IMO.....ESPECIALLY on a 7 year old used car.

Getting a robust pre-purchase inspection from a competent mechanic you trust is probably the best money you'd ever spend....and the farthest thing from a waste of money or time.

[Supercooled]

If anything, it's quite the contrary IMO.....ESPECIALLY on a 7 year old used car.

Getting a robust pre-purchase inspection from a competent mechanic you trust is probably the best money you'd ever spend....and the farthest thing from a waste of money or time.

So you're advocating I do a mechanic inspection for every car I'm interested in? This could be 5-8 visits at current count. What is that in dollars and cents? Probably over $1000.

I just need some tips and tricks to spot the non-starters from the potentials. Like a few weeks ago someone posted an ad, the very same ad I had looked at then the OP said it was a non-starter because there was rust yet the ad said it was a non-winter car. These are some of the basic knowledge I need to have before I go half-cocked and spend $1000 on inspections; my knowledge base isn't as robust, if you will, as some of yours. That question about no rust on summer cars should be a dead giveaway. Like they say, a fool and their money is easily parted. I'm trying to avoid being a fool even if I sound like one right now.

[Muney]

If there are any mods on it, then it's been 100% driven hard. Being driven hard isn't necessarily a bad thing though, as long as the maintenance was always kept up.

[poedua]

So you're advocating I do a mechanic inspection for every car I'm interested in?

This could be 5-8 visits at current count. What is that in dollars and cents? Probably over $1000.


Nope, not in the least....doing that would be just plain stupid

I'm simply suggesting that you have a robust pre-purchase inspection done by a competent mechanic you trust on the one you plan on buying .....should cost about $125 or so.

Besides ...you initially made reference to only 1 specific 2005 car - " the car ", " car in question ", " divulge the link to the car " - not a bunch of cars.

[l69norm]

Goto a forum dedicated to that car and find out what the known weak points are. Check the known issues, then get it inspected by a shop that specializes in that car

[RastaManMax]

If there are any mods on it, then it's been 100% driven hard. Being driven hard isn't necessarily a bad thing though, as long as the maintenance was always kept up.

First part I disagree. I know lots of people that mod their cars purely for looks, hardly drive them and baby them like no other. Second part is true. Some people (myself included), sometimes 'mod' the car when OEM parts break because a) they're cheaper and sometimes b) better quality/design.

If you're buying an 05 350Z, check for oil burning, door lock actuators, power window motors, uneven tire wear, axle click, wheel well rust, hood hinges rubbing against fender. If you don't know what some of these are, google and you'll soon find out.

[Jordan866]

You would be best to take the car to a mechanic who can do a check on the car. Also as mentioned, read the forums on the specific car to find the various issues. Tell the mechanic about these and he can look into it for you. For something as expensive as a car purchase, a small amount of money may save you a lot in the long run. Also if you find any issues with the car, you can use that as a negotiating power in lowering the price with the seller. Good luck!

[noodleman]

First part I disagree. I know lots of people that mod their cars purely for looks, hardly drive them and baby them like no other. Second part is true. Some people (myself included), sometimes 'mod' the car when OEM parts break because a) they're cheaper and sometimes b) better quality/design.

If you're buying an 05 350Z, check for oil burning, door lock actuators, power window motors, uneven tire wear, axle click, wheel well rust, hood hinges rubbing against fender. If you don't know what some of these are, google and you'll soon find out.

The only model of 05 that had the oil burning issue is the Anniversary edition model iirc. It's the Rev up engine that's in the 06s (and the 05 anniversary) that has the oil burning issue.

Power window motor applies to the passenger side only iirc.

The uneven tire wear applies to 03-04 models only, as Nissan updated the alignment specs.

There's no permanent solution to the axle click issue as far as i know.

Guess what I use to drive :)

[booblehead]

After your prelim research is done and if you express interest in offering, then take the car to at least couple of shops, incl. Speedstar (Markham) and ask for a complete front to back assessment of the car's condition.

http://secure.hostdeziners.com/speedstar/store/index.php?main_page=contact_us

[Maymybonneliveforever]

Since we don't know that car it's not as easy to tell you what specific areas to look for, for example, if it were a 05 Z06 Vette. I would listen and feel for the rear CV joints, if it's been to the track there's a chance they're weak. I would also check the feel of the clutch since based on pressure, travel before it starts to engage, others symptoms you have an idea on how it's been driven. Also check the door pins and bushing, if they're worn, not a good sign based on the mileage alone. Check for aftermarket engine mods, and talk to the present owner and ask, has it ever been to the track. Check for dog tracking, and whether there are abnormal gaps between the body panels, to gauge whether the frame is bent.


There are many more but it can be narrowed down if it were more car specific.

As suggested ask on the specific forum, they're normally pretty helpful, I'm sure a fellow member would even go with you to inspect.

[slomo]

Check the brake pedal for worn. It is one of the sign to see if there was a lot of hard braking.

[Heero01]

I would stay away from used 350 or 370. Do you see how people drive those cars?