engine stall when idling

[dididada]

Problem with engine stall. The most weird thing is that it only happenend first thing in the morning around 8, only at the same STOP sign which is about one minute away from my driveway. The engine shuts itself down at the intersection when idling, leaving all the warning lights/radio on. After the restart, things just work out fine for the rest of the day.

It is a corolla 2000, at 105xxx km, oil changed reguarly, visual check upon oil change all oked, air filter Dec 2005, battery eye green.

Is there something wrong with the car, or with that specific STOP sign area?!

[mon1]

Problem with engine stall. The most weird thing is that it only happenend first thing in the morning around 8, only at the same STOP sign which is about one minute away from my driveway. The engine shuts itself down at the intersection when idling, leaving all the warning lights/radio on. After the restart, things just work out fine for the rest of the day.

It is a corolla 2000, at 105xxx km, oil changed reguarly, visual check upon oil change all oked, air filter Dec 2005, battery eye green.

Is there something wrong with the car, or with that specific STOP sign area?!

I had a Mazda 3 that did the exact same thing. Seems to turn itself off when the engine isn't warm enough yet. Its a problem - could be dangerous -take it in.

[gilboman]

Problem with engine stall. The most weird thing is that it only happenend first thing in the morning around 8, only at the same STOP sign which is about one minute away from my driveway. The engine shuts itself down at the intersection when idling, leaving all the warning lights/radio on. After the restart, things just work out fine for the rest of the day.

It is a corolla 2000, at 105xxx km, oil changed reguarly, visual check upon oil change all oked, air filter Dec 2005, battery eye green.

Is there something wrong with the car, or with that specific STOP sign area?!

does it just die or idle roughly first?

ever cleaned your MAF?

[dididada]

does it just die or idle roughly first?

ever cleaned your MAF?

Actually when it comes to a full stop at that specific STOP sign first in the morning, it shakes a bit, and dies, all within a few seconds.

Brought it to the garage and did a check up, but did not find anything wrong for certain. I think they took a look at the wires, sparkplug, the big black plastic pipe connected to the engine, read engine code or something like that. Recommended to replace temperature sensor (TPS) and idle sensor (IAC). Plus 2.5hr labor the quote is going to take an arm off me.

Sigh.

BTW, what is MAF. I don't remember I have ever cleaned any parts.

[Bullseye]

It must be one of the new stop signs with the discombobulator chip installed, that's likely your problem.

[dididada]

lol

[ichpen]

Actually when it comes to a full stop at that specific STOP sign first in the morning, it shakes a bit, and dies, all within a few seconds.

Brought it to the garage and did a check up, but did not find anything wrong for certain. I think they took a look at the wires, sparkplug, the big black plastic pipe connected to the engine, read engine code or something like that. Recommended to replace temperature sensor (TPS) and idle sensor (IAC). Plus 2.5hr labor the quote is going to take an arm off me.

Sigh.

BTW, what is MAF. I don't remember I have ever cleaned any parts.

MAF=Mass Airflow Sensor. A round black tube (with a sensor in the middle) that connects from your car's air filter/air intake assembly to the throttle body. It detects the rate of airflow into the engine and the ECU accordingly adjusts fuel delivery. Faulty one can mean that the engine would be running very rich. Though typically a CEL is thrown if that occurs.

Very fagile part so clean with EXTREME care...

[gilboman]

MAF=Mass Airflow Sensor. A round black tube (with a sensor in the middle) that connects from your car's air filter/air intake assembly to the throttle body. It detects the rate of airflow into the engine and the ECU accordingly adjusts fuel delivery. Faulty one can mean that the engine would be running very rich. Though typically a CEL is thrown if that occurs.

Very fagile part so clean with EXTREME care...

usually brake cleaner just sprayed in it is good enough.. or qtip with rubbing alcohol. but brake cleaner method is safer.

[ichpen]

usually brake cleaner just sprayed in it is good enough.. or qtip with rubbing alcohol. but brake cleaner method is safer.

Should work as long as you're very gentle with the wires inside the housing. Still don't think it's MAF failure as that will almost certainly trigger a CEL light i.e. if it doesn't think air is flowing...

[gilboman]

Should work as long as you're very gentle with the wires inside the housing. Still don't think it's MAF failure as that will almost certainly trigger a CEL light i.e. if it doesn't think air is flowing...

not failure..more like a dirty maf will often cause rough idling which could lead to stalling.

but i'm just guessing as well and cleaning maf is easy and cheap anyways.

[ichpen]

not failure..more like a dirty maf will often cause rough idling which could lead to stalling.

but i'm just guessing as well and cleaning maf is easy and cheap anyways.

Yep, it's possible. Also OP can clean the throttle body to make sure deposits in there are not restricting airflow... Difficulty varies, but on most cars it's generally an easy thing especially if you've disassembled the air intake assembly already to clean the MAF.

Oh and check your air filter.

[Pete_Coach]

Actually when it comes to a full stop at that specific STOP sign first in the morning, it shakes a bit, and dies, all within a few seconds.

Brought it to the garage and did a check up, but did not find anything wrong for certain. I think they took a look at the wires, sparkplug, the big black plastic pipe connected to the engine, read engine code or something like that. Recommended to replace temperature sensor (TPS) and idle sensor (IAC). Plus 2.5hr labor the quote is going to take an arm off me.

Sigh.

BTW, what is MAF. I don't remember I have ever cleaned any parts.
TPS = throttle psition sensor. IAC = idle air control

I agree with some of the other posters here and the first thing you need to do is clean the throttle body with any of the spray cleaners out there. Use a q tip soaked in the fluid to clean the edges of the butterfly inside the intake. You need to remove the intake from the throttle body to do this.
You should be aware that after you spray and wipe in there it is a good idea to dry it out and then start the car and spray some of it in while the engine is running. You may not be able to start the car with the intake removed so you have to re attach everything but somehow try and get the little red nozzle that comes with the can into the intake path.
You stalling may also just be that the engine requires a bit longer warm up period. The TPS is pre set and is controlled by the ECU (engine control unit) after startup. There is a null adjustment on the system but you need a manual to do that. Also, just try some WD 40 (or other silicon lubricant) and spray the throttle linkages just to ensure there is no little "hang ups" or binding.

[dididada]

No engine stall at that STOP sign this morning, but the CHECK ENGINE light came on this afternoon. I might need to print out and bring this page to the mechanics.

So maybe the first thing to try is to clean the throttle body, NOT replace those costy sensors. I think I saw them checking/cleaning the big black tube which links the engine and the air filter box.

Thanks buddies.

[Pete_Coach]

No engine stall at that STOP sign this morning, but the CHECK ENGINE light came on this afternoon. I might need to print out and bring this page to the mechanics.

So maybe the first thing to try is to clean the throttle body, NOT replace those costy sensors. I think I saw them checking/cleaning the big black tube which links the engine and the air filter box.

Thanks buddies.
If they removed the air intake, then did not install it properly, it could generate a light just like a loose gas cap. A vacum line loos or with a crack or pinhole will also trigger a light.

[ichpen]

No engine stall at that STOP sign this morning, but the CHECK ENGINE light came on this afternoon. I might need to print out and bring this page to the mechanics.

So maybe the first thing to try is to clean the throttle body, NOT replace those costy sensors. I think I saw them checking/cleaning the big black tube which links the engine and the air filter box.

Thanks buddies.

Pray they didn't f*** up your MAF sensor or put it pointing the wrong way. That be a costly replacement.

They probably cleaned your air filter assembly and possibly throttle body but who knows. I no longer let mechanics near my car for things I can access and fix myself.

Good luck. Get that CEL code and find out what it is.

[Pete_Coach]

Pray they didn't f*** up your MAF sensor or put it pointing the wrong way. That be a costly replacement.

They probably cleaned your air filter assembly and possibly throttle body but who knows. I no longer let mechanics near my car for things I can access and fix myself.

Good luck. Get that CEL code and find out what it is.
Can I ask why you have such a hard on over Mass Airflow Sensor failure? And putting it in the wrong way would require the most untalented mechanic ever, the arrow is so big, it could not have been missed.
I have rarely seen a MAF failure. They have been damaged by ham fisted backyard mechanic poking around with a screw driver on a few occasions and they get dirty yes, (because folks don't change their air filters) but failures are very very rare.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

[ichpen]

Can I ask why you have such a hard on over Mass Airflow Sensor failure? And putting it in the wrong way would require the most untalented mechanic ever, the arrow is so big, it could not have been missed.
I have rarely seen a MAF failure. They have been damaged by ham fisted backyard mechanic poking around with a screw driver on a few occasions and they get dirty yes, (because folks don't change their air filters) but failures are very very rare.
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

Firstly I was suggesting that it's likely not an MAF failure.

Secondly if you drive a modern day 0+ Nissan and/or Infinity you will become quite intimately involved with your MAF sensor... A number of owners have experience 2 to 3 MAF failures in the space of 3 years.

[Pete_Coach]

Firstly I was suggesting that it's likely not an MAF failure.

Secondly if you drive a modern day 0+ Nissan and/or Infinity you will become quite intimately involved with your MAF sensor... A number of owners have experience 2 to 3 MAF failures in the space of 3 years.
My son is a service manager at a Nissan/Infinity/Kia dealeship and when I mentioned this to him it was a surprise to him, he has had to replace very few MAF sensors. His comment was that the brakes on Nissan are the biggest customer complaints, the rotors don't seem to last vey long.
You seem to have a handle on vehicle owners complaints, are you in the buisness too? It is good to see that folks in the car repair buisness are helping RFD'ers.

[ichpen]

My son is a service manager at a Nissan/Infinity/Kia dealeship and when I mentioned this to him it was a surprise to him, he has had to replace very few MAF sensors. His comment was that the brakes on Nissan are the biggest customer complaints, the rotors don't seem to last vey long.
You seem to have a handle on vehicle owners complaints, are you in the buisness too? It is good to see that folks in the car repair buisness are helping RFD'ers.

That is peculiar. If you look around the forums (nissanforums.org and altimas.net) you will find hundreds if not thousands of threads dedicated to the dreaded MAF failure.

It seems early 02, 03 Altimas, Maximas and occasionally G35s were saddled with a very weak MAF part which was prone to failure. Several TSBs exist for the MAF though no official recall. I believe this was resolved in 04/05 models.

Yes, rotors rust quickly on Nissans, also clutches are weak.