The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread

[patrob]

Any comments on Torlys Summit Premier engineered -going to be installed floating over concrete slab in highrise.

Torlys is pretty good but at the same time it's a little pricey.

[igoy]

Can anyone recommend a good hardwood flooring supplier in Ottawa. I don't need the installation, just want the best price for decent quality. Thanks!

We are in the process of buying hardwood for our 2nd floor. We bought from Barwood Flooring on Colonade Rd for our 1st floor about 5 years ago and very likely buy from them again.

[igoy]

what is the difference between Mirage and Foxwood? I understand that both of these are made by same company and factory (Boa Franc). But, there is a price difference and we are trying to understand what is compromised, if buy Foxwood Maple compared to Mirage Maple. Mirage is touted as the best Canadian hardwood floors, but could not find any info on Foxwood online.

[brianboodhoo]

Thank you!
We are in the process of buying hardwood for our 2nd floor. We bought from Barwood Flooring on Colonade Rd for our 1st floor about 5 years ago and very likely buy from them again.

[patrob]

what is the difference between Mirage and Foxwood? I understand that both of these are made by same company and factory (Boa Franc). But, there is a price difference and we are trying to understand what is compromised, if buy Foxwood Maple compared to Mirage Maple. Mirage is touted as the best Canadian hardwood floors, but could not find any info on Foxwood online.
From what we have heard, their Foxwood line is a "builder" grade, therefore price will be lower. Are you buying the wood from the dealer or upgrading with the builder?

[wronguy]

Has anyone used Wood floors direct http://www.woodfloorsdirect.ca/ They have good prices and all wood is milled in Tillsonburg. Looking at their rustic grade

[movingP]

Install the floors the same as currently if done across the joists. The S2 at the nosing is the proper place to start. But make sure you shoot the lines & measure what happens in the rooms. In the master bed. start at the entrance with a full board but make sure it's all square, that's what chalk like & measuring tape is for :)

I have similar question on the starting place. On our second floor, the stair entrance is facing a bed room door. It seems the nosing is not in parallel with the door/wall. If we start from nosing, the wood in the rooms may not be in square. Should we cut the first piece in angle so that the second piece will run parallel with wall? On the left side of the stair entrance, it is master bed room. If we use the existing nosing as base line, there will be 1/2 inch difference in the master bed room (near door and near the window). Can anyone please advise? It is much appreciated.

[patrob]

Has anyone used Wood floors direct http://www.woodfloorsdirect.ca/ They have good prices and all wood is milled in Tillsonburg. Looking at their rustic grade
We haven't used them & don't know anyone who has so can't really help you.

[patrob]

I have similar question on the starting place. On our second floor, the stair entrance is facing a bed room door. It seems the nosing is not in parallel with the door/wall. If we start from nosing, the wood in the rooms may not be in square. Should we cut the first piece in angle so that the second piece will run parallel with wall? On the left side of the stair entrance, it is master bed room. If we use the existing nosing as base line, there will be 1/2 inch difference in the master bed room (near door and near the window). Can anyone please advise? It is much appreciated.
How much do you have to cut off at the nosing? If it's not too much & will not bother you & will not be very visible, then yes. But if you have to cut off an inch or more, it might be a problem. Can the nosing be moved?

[movingP]

Thanks Patrob for your response. The nosing has been in place and can't be moved. I don't know how to cut the nosing as I can't move it. we may have to cut it by 1/2 inch. Do we have to cut nosing or the first piece of the hardwood? Thanks again.

[conky3000]

Hi! We're buying a new construction home (due to be ready in late summer 2013) and aren't sure what to do about the downstairs family room/living room/hall. We'd like to have a non-carpeted floor, but have young twins and two cats. I know everyone says not to get their hardwood through the builder, that it's way cheaper to do it afterwards.
So how much of a hassle is it really to tear up carpet and have wood floors put in? There's no way we could/would do it ourselves.
Is it even worthwhile doing with two toddlers and two cats who tend to puke up hairballs? Won't hardwood get destroyed?
Is solid hardwood or engineered a better choice given our circumstances?
Should we just go with laminate which can handle spills and dings better for now?
Should we keep carpet for a few years until the kids are a bit older and switch over then? I know resale value blah blah blah but we're hoping to be in the house for a while so it's only a low level concern at this point.
Would we really save a TON of money by doing it afterwards versus through the builder considering we're only doing two rooms about 12x14 and a small hallway, and that we'd have to pay for installation due to lack of time adn skill on our parts?
If we do go with hardwood at any point, what type of wood and finish would hold up best to scratches, dents and spills (whether in actual durability or in that it would look less obvious or just add character rather than looking like crap)?
Thanks for any input! I'm sorry I don't have time to read through the whole thread.

[patrob]

Thanks Patrob for your response. The nosing has been in place and can't be moved. I don't know how to cut the nosing as I can't move it. we may have to cut it by 1/2 inch. Do we have to cut nosing or the first piece of the hardwood? Thanks again.
You have to shoot some chalk lines to see how much off the nosing is. BTW, how long is the nosing?

[patrob]

Hi! We're buying a new construction home (due to be ready in late summer 2013) and aren't sure what to do about the downstairs family room/living room/hall. We'd like to have a non-carpeted floor, but have young twins and two cats. I know everyone says not to get their hardwood through the builder, that it's way cheaper to do it afterwards.
So how much of a hassle is it really to tear up carpet and have wood floors put in? There's no way we could/would do it ourselves.
Is it even worthwhile doing with two toddlers and two cats who tend to puke up hairballs? Won't hardwood get destroyed?
Is solid hardwood or engineered a better choice given our circumstances?
Should we just go with laminate which can handle spills and dings better for now?
Should we keep carpet for a few years until the kids are a bit older and switch over then? I know resale value blah blah blah but we're hoping to be in the house for a while so it's only a low level concern at this point.
Would we really save a TON of money by doing it afterwards versus through the builder considering we're only doing two rooms about 12x14 and a small hallway, and that we'd have to pay for installation due to lack of time adn skill on our parts?
If we do go with hardwood at any point, what type of wood and finish would hold up best to scratches, dents and spills (whether in actual durability or in that it would look less obvious or just add character rather than looking like crap)?
Thanks for any input! I'm sorry I don't have time to read through the whole thread.
The saving will depend on the price your builder gives you. Some builders offer better prices than others so you have to compare. Very often you can get better quality hardwood after closing for less vs. the builder. Since you only have a small area to be done, the saving may not be that great vs. if you were installing the whole house. It's not such a hassle to do it after, we do this all the time :) Some hardwood products will show more damage than others & with kids we usually recommend hand scraped, wirebrush or heavier grain rather than maple or any smooth finish wood which may show more damage. Laminate may be a lot more durable but doesn't have the same look & feel & it's not resistant to water any more than hardwood.

[DAMB]

Anybody know where I can get 1 3/4" x 3/8" or 1/2" red oak for a resionable price.

[igoy]

We will be buying from the dealer. That is correct, looks like this this brand is typically sold via builders. I'm not sure about all the differences, but found out over the weekend that the Foxwood finish is different from Mirage (all the rest may be almost the same quality as Mirage) and we are told that the Foxwood finish is same as what Mirage used to have several years ago. Mirage has recently improved their finishing, which is now sold as premium quality. We have decided to go with Foxwood and save ~$1/sqft. Btw, also called up the manufacture and found out that the warranty on the wood finish is 15 years compared to 25 years for Mirage.


From what we have heard, their Foxwood line is a "builder" grade, therefore price will be lower. Are you buying the wood from the dealer or upgrading with the builder?

[movingP]

The nosing is about 5' and if I follow the nosing, the bed room next to the stairs entrance (21' long) will be short of 1/2 inch. Will that be visible? my concern is once it reaches the wall, the baseboard will not be parallel with the last piece next to the wall. Will that be normal? Thanks.

[patrob]

Anybody know where I can get 1 3/4" x 3/8" or 1/2" red oak for a resionable price.

Try this place (http://www.bramptonhardwood.com/index-new.php)

[webbhe]

Hello patrob, can you recommend a hardwood refinisher in Brampton/Mississauga area...we'd also like to lay new unfinished hardwood in our dining room at the same time and have it all stained to match...is this doable?

[patrob]

We will be buying from the dealer. That is correct, looks like this this brand is typically sold via builders. I'm not sure about all the differences, but found out over the weekend that the Foxwood finish is different from Mirage (all the rest may be almost the same quality as Mirage) and we are told that the Foxwood finish is same as what Mirage used to have several years ago. Mirage has recently improved their finishing, which is now sold as premium quality. We have decided to go with Foxwood and save ~$1/sqft. Btw, also called up the manufacture and found out that the warranty on the wood finish is 15 years compared to 25 years for Mirage.
I disagree with what you have been told. Maybe the finish is improved on the new Mirage but the milling, grading & average length is not what it used to be. You say you will save $1 sq. ft. for Foxwood vs. Mirage, it's only $1,000 based on 1,000 sq. ft. IMO it's nothing for a long term investment.

[patrob]

The nosing is about 5' and if I follow the nosing, the bed room next to the stairs entrance (21' long) will be short of 1/2 inch. Will that be visible? my concern is once it reaches the wall, the baseboard will not be parallel with the last piece next to the wall. Will that be normal? Thanks.
1/2" on 21 ft. is not a lot but you can easily lose that by shaving the 1st board 1/8th & that might even be too much (that will not be visible) & it will correct your difference on the parallel wall.

[stealth]

Patrob, have you ever seen cupped floors flatten out naturally, and did it lead to any other issues I.e. squeaking?
Went to see a newly built custom home, and a lot of the hardwood on the main and 2nd floor was cupped. No hardwood in the basement.
The agent claimed this was caused by the excessive moisture from the house being built in the summer on waterfront, and he says he can tell that over the past couple of weeks it has been flattening out, so he thinks the problem will go away.
This is a very expensive house, with a lot of sq ft of hardwood, so not sure I'd want to take his word for it.
What do u think?
You can kind of see it in this pic
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b88/bigphatgoalie/e217b977e7f444b4b3754ee179760b24.jpg

[patrob]

Patrob, have you ever seen cupped floors flatten out naturally, and did it lead to any other issues I.e. squeaking?
Went to see a newly built custom home, and a lot of the hardwood on the main and 2nd floor was cupped. No hardwood in the basement.
The agent claimed this was caused by the excessive moisture from the house being built in the summer on waterfront, and he says he can tell that over the past couple of weeks it has been flattening out, so he thinks the problem will go away.
This is a very expensive house, with a lot of sq ft of hardwood, so not sure I'd want to take his word for it.
What do u think?
You can kind of see it in this pic
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b88/bigphatgoalie/e217b977e7f444b4b3754ee179760b24.jpg

Not exactly sure what wood it is but if you say it's throughout the house, there might be an issue. It's an indication of excessive moisture. If it would be only on the main floor, then I would say it's the moisture from below. You have no guarantee that the wood will flatten out without possible damage & a lot depends on circumstances when & how the wood was installed & at what point of construction. If you are planning to buy this house, I would def. deduct the cost for possible replacement just in case.

[gordito]

Hi, I have 1800 square feet of Vintage Solid Sawn, hand scraped Maple in Taboo about to be installed (this comes from Indonesia). I have a question about orientation. Should the hardwood in the rooms be laid to the opposite direction of the hardwood in the hallways.
I am leaning this way but was wondering about the opinions of this group.
Thanks!

[jeffs101]

Great thread but I was unable to find an answer to my specific question, so here goes....we are re-doing our kitchen and getting a hydronic radiant in-floor heating installed. Because of the amount of time we spend in the kitchen, we were considering cork flooring. Any opinions on that? In particular, I was worried about the efficiency of the heat transfer as cork is often used as a insulator.
Thanks.

[robbiemurray]

Patrob - can you give me an estimate on typical labor charges for a job in Toronto requiring hardwood flooring of an approx 400 sq ft room?

[patrob]

Hi, I have 1800 square feet of Vintage Solid Sawn, hand scraped Maple in Taboo about to be installed (this comes from Indonesia). I have a question about orientation. Should the hardwood in the rooms be laid to the opposite direction of the hardwood in the hallways.
I am leaning this way but was wondering about the opinions of this group.
Thanks!

Question about which way hardwood should be installed has been answered on this thread numerous times - always across the joists.

[patrob]

Great thread but I was unable to find an answer to my specific question, so here goes....we are re-doing our kitchen and getting a hydronic radiant in-floor heating installed. Because of the amount of time we spend in the kitchen, we were considering cork flooring. Any opinions on that? In particular, I was worried about the efficiency of the heat transfer as cork is often used as a insulator.
Thanks.

Good point but even though it's considered an insulator, once heated it stays at the same temp. It's very comfortable on your feet & cork is used often in kitchens. There are few diff. types of cork flooring. Contact the manufacturer for specific requirements before purchasing. Not even manufacturer will warrant the floors over heat.

[patrob]

There are installers between $1 to $3 sq. ft. so it really depends who you hire. Most of good installers will charge you $2 plus for plain installation of domestic wood. Exotics are more expensive.

[Mahbona]

Hi there, I'm planning to have my bedrooms changed from carpet to hardwood in a condo. It looks like my living room currently has hardwood which looks very very similar to Regency Plank Maple species - bronze color. I don't know where to get a similar one for my bedrooms. Has to be the floating type. Do you know any brand, wood which matches that or comes close. And where may I find that brand?

[DubKrazy]

Hey Patrob,

I bought a 3 storey townhome and have my design centre appointment coming up. I plan to put hardwood in on the main floor after closing. I was just wondering if/what I need to select in order to install hardwood after closing. Also, I was going to select the stain for the stairs and match it to the hardwood to be installed after closing. Our two choices which we are debating between are Mirage Red Oak Graphite and Bruce Westmoreland Pewter. Any thoughts on this? Any pictures you can provide? We are wondering if choosing the pewter would reduce the resale value or be less desirable to potential buyers down the road.

Thanks for all your help.

[patrob]

Hi there, I'm planning to have my bedrooms changed from carpet to hardwood in a condo. It looks like my living room currently has hardwood which looks very very similar to Regency Plank Maple species - bronze color. I don't know where to get a similar one for my bedrooms. Has to be the floating type. Do you know any brand, wood which matches that or comes close. And where may I find that brand?

Regency was made by Satin Finish so contact one of their dealers they might have something similar under a diff. name. There are tons of products out there so best to have the sample piece and match it as close as possible.

[Nicky911]

Hey Patrob,

Questiosn, my inlaws bought a condo and i want to change the paquet floor that's there..if it's a high rise condo, should we be using engineered? not hardwood, correcT? Also, are we able to lay the floor on top of the existing floor that's there? or would we be best ripping it all out?

thanks,

[patrob]

Hey Patrob,

I bought a 3 storey townhome and have my design centre appointment coming up. I plan to put hardwood in on the main floor after closing. I was just wondering if/what I need to select in order to install hardwood after closing. Also, I was going to select the stain for the stairs and match it to the hardwood to be installed after closing. Our two choices which we are debating between are Mirage Red Oak Graphite and Bruce Westmoreland Pewter. Any thoughts on this? Any pictures you can provide? We are wondering if choosing the pewter would reduce the resale value or be less desirable to potential buyers down the road.

Thanks for all your help.
You mainly need 3/4" nosing (might already be standard but ask) and stained stairs. Dark gray is very popular now but not everyone will like it ofcourse but like the saying goes, every house has its buyer :D. Who's your builder, Mattamy?

[patrob]

Hey Patrob,

Questiosn, my inlaws bought a condo and i want to change the paquet floor that's there..if it's a high rise condo, should we be using engineered? not hardwood, correcT? Also, are we able to lay the floor on top of the existing floor that's there? or would we be best ripping it all out?

thanks,
Only engineered and if height is not an issue, you can install new floor over existing (floating only). Contact the condo management for what's allowed before you start.

[Nicky911]

Only engineered and if height is not an issue, you can install new floor over existing (floating only). Contact the condo management for what's allowed before you start.

Should i look for a certain thickness in the engineered floor? Also, when you say floating, does that mean just layed over top the existing floor?

[amimal11]

Patrob - first off you are amazing and speak for all regflaggers when I say THANK YOU!!


A couple of q's for you

Looking for new hardwood flooring for my 1920's downtown house as the oroginal think plank oak is still there and totally worn out

1) would prefer not to spend more than $4-$5 at that max (closer to $4) and want some walnut (not orangy) tone with character (character meaning knots are fine, wood grain etc etc), wider plank preferred. Is this even possible?

2) recently offered KAHRS oak Sorrento flooring for $3-$4 a square foot by someone who wants to clear it out (reg 9-10 bucks). see link below

http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/realwoodflooring/engineeredwoodflooring/5239/kahrs_oak_sorrento_engineered_wood_flooring

Now looks are deceiving here as each board is 8 feet long and 8 inches wide but the pattern on the board is 3 deep of 2/75 inch classic oak 3 strip engineered. So when you put it together it almost feels like you are walking on laminate (possibly due to how seemless it looks)? Thoughts on the Kahrs stuff for the price? I have not seen a whole floor done, only 3 boards put together.

3) Please feel free to PM me with any recomendations on where to look for flooring and installations at reasonable prices and what I can expect to pay for ripping the old floor out, subfloor and levelling before installing for approx 1100 sqaure feet if possible


Any assistance to the above really appreciated




thanks!!

[DubKrazy]

You mainly need 3/4" nosing (might already be standard but ask) and stained stairs. Dark gray is very popular now but not everyone will like it ofcourse but like the saying goes, every house has its buyer :D. Who's your builder, Mattamy?

Yep, Mattamy

[patrob]

Should i look for a certain thickness in the engineered floor? Also, when you say floating, does that mean just layed over top the existing floor?

Yes but you also need to use an underlay. Thickness depends on whatever your budget allows & whatever the product comes in.

[patrob]

Yep, Mattamy
I thought so :)
PM me & I will send you some pics of dark gray floors.

[patrob]

Patrob - first off you are amazing and speak for all regflaggers when I say THANK YOU!!


A couple of q's for you

Looking for new hardwood flooring for my 1920's downtown house as the oroginal think plank oak is still there and totally worn out

1) would prefer not to spend more than $4-$5 at that max (closer to $4) and want some walnut (not orangy) tone with character (character meaning knots are fine, wood grain etc etc), wider plank preferred. Is this even possible?

2) recently offered KAHRS oak Sorrento flooring for $3-$4 a square foot by someone who wants to clear it out (reg 9-10 bucks). see link below

http://www.flooringsupplies.co.uk/realwoodflooring/engineeredwoodflooring/5239/kahrs_oak_sorrento_engineered_wood_flooring

Now looks are deceiving here as each board is 8 feet long and 8 inches wide but the pattern on the board is 3 deep of 2/75 inch classic oak 3 strip engineered. So when you put it together it almost feels like you are walking on laminate (possibly due to how seemless it looks)? Thoughts on the Kahrs stuff for the price? I have not seen a whole floor done, only 3 boards put together.

3) Please feel free to PM me with any recomendations on where to look for flooring and installations at reasonable prices and what I can expect to pay for ripping the old floor out, subfloor and levelling before installing for approx 1100 sqaure feet if possible


Any assistance to the above really appreciated

thanks!!

Thank you :) I hope you had a chance to vote & rate the thread http://forums.redflagdeals.com/images/rating/rating-trans-15_5.png 5 stars ;)

Sorry but this product is not worth that much IMO! I hope you are planning to do some of the work yourself because it will become very expensive. I can send you some more info if you want.

[amimal11]

Wow not worth $3 or not worth $9? $9 I can understand but I thought $3 would be considered a steal?

I was not planning on doing the work myself as I have never done hardwood floors before, never mind having to rip up old hardwood, put down subfloor and level the whole floor!! yikes!

Also I realized through research yesterday that its squared edge stuff thus the reason for the seamless pieces and how they fit together....thoughts on this type of hardwod and how it holds up? Its worth mentioning that this is not the house I will live in for the rest of my life but would like to enjoy it for a couple years. (2-3 max)

I guess my other question then if i go the wide plank route (which is my preference), what type of min 4.5-5" planks are the best price out there. Does not have to be the BEST quality but want nice looking hardwood with character.


Thanks again
AMimal

Thanks again!

[puppylover]

Hi patrob,
I bought the wood a few months back, stored at home. Now is the time to install and found out the planks are varied in width, 1/16 of an inch. I had complained to the vendor( through email) and he sent this back to me.
http://hardwoodfloorsmag.com/articles/article.aspx?articleid=1642&zoneid=1
Is this normal? and also please give some advice how to proceed with this. My plank is 4 1/4 in width and it is Ash, Canadian made and I have no clue who made it, because i got them custom made the color so they sent me the white box
Thanks patrob

[patrob]

Hi patrob,
I bought the wood a few months back, stored at home. Now is the time to install and found out the planks are varied in width, 1/16 of an inch. I had complained to the vendor( through email) and he sent this back to me.
http://hardwoodfloorsmag.com/articles/article.aspx?articleid=1642&zoneid=1
Is this normal? and also please give some advice how to proceed with this. My plank is 4 1/4 in width and it is Ash, Canadian made and I have no clue who made it, because i got them custom made the color so they sent me the white box
Thanks patrob
It is true, the wider the plank the more you will see in width variation. There is not much you can do. 1/16" is not uncommon especially from unknown mill. Ash & maple does not like humidity changes & shows a lot of difference. If it's only a few boards, be patient & pull them out during installation & use them in a less visible space.

[fliime]

rob/pat,

please clear your inbox, trying to send you a pm, thanks

[patrob]

rob/pat,

please clear your inbox, trying to send you a pm, thanks
I just noticed :D

[Msh3ll]

Is the swiftlock product at lowes any good? Laminate for lower level bedrooms/den but not concreted floors. Thanks in advance!

[fliime]

PM sent.
Thanks

[Bruzza]

Hi,

Wondering if anyone has suggestions for a type of hardwood that would be appropriate for the entire main floor of a bungalow (Kitchen, Living room, Dining room, hallway and three bedrooms). I'm looking for one type of flooring to lay throughout, and given that I plan on staying a while, am looking for something durable. No kids or pets, but that could always change in the future.

Have seen an Acacia product which seems like it might work, but am hearing more about Bamboo. Not tied to anything in particular, and am hoping to find something for around $4. I'm in the GTA as far as store selection/shopping areas go.

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Chris

[jman1717]

I apologize as I am sure this question has been answered somewhere in the 400+ pages of comments, but I am hoping to get your opinion on installing laminate floors in a basement? I will be installing a DRIcore Engineered Subfloor system onto the concrete and thinking about putting laminate down on top of that. Am I just asking for a disaster?
What are your thoughts on Vinyl plank flooring that supposedly looks and feels like wood?

Thank you so much!!

[patrob]

Is the swiftlock product at lowes any good? Laminate for lower level bedrooms/den but not concreted floors. Thanks in advance!

Unfortunately not familiar with that particular lock name/product.

[patrob]

Hi,

Wondering if anyone has suggestions for a type of hardwood that would be appropriate for the entire main floor of a bungalow (Kitchen, Living room, Dining room, hallway and three bedrooms). I'm looking for one type of flooring to lay throughout, and given that I plan on staying a while, am looking for something durable. No kids or pets, but that could always change in the future.

Have seen an Acacia product which seems like it might work, but am hearing more about Bamboo. Not tied to anything in particular, and am hoping to find something for around $4. I'm in the GTA as far as store selection/shopping areas go.

Any feedback would be appreciated!

Cheers,
Chris

In that price range you will not get anything very durable. Good hardwood costs around $5 plus & if you want durable, don't go with Chinese wood. Like everything else, you get what you pay for.

[patrob]

I apologize as I am sure this question has been answered somewhere in the 400+ pages of comments, but I am hoping to get your opinion on installing laminate floors in a basement? I will be installing a DRIcore Engineered Subfloor system onto the concrete and thinking about putting laminate down on top of that. Am I just asking for a disaster?
What are your thoughts on Vinyl plank flooring that supposedly looks and feels like wood?

Thank you so much!!

Why a disaster? You can't get any better installing laminate on dricore. The vinyl planks haven't used them yet but they look interesting but might be better suited in high traffic areas like commercial use, etc.

[jman1717]

Why a disaster? You can't get any better installing laminate on dricore. The vinyl planks haven't used them yet but they look interesting but might be better suited in high traffic areas like commercial use, etc.

just wasn't sure if laminate in the basement is a good idea. But thank you!!!

[patrob]

just wasn't sure if laminate in the basement is a good idea. But thank you!!!

Laminate is a great choice for condos & basements. Good luck with your project & you're welcome :)

[iwells]

When we first got our coffee table we loved it as the table top lifts. Useful for laptop, eating, etc. It had wheels so and had to place our rug.

Well, the coffee table was easily moved but left two indents on the floor about 7 ft long. Most of it is covered by the rung but about 3 ft still shows.

I think we have a brazilian type, it's kinda pinkish and everyone complements us.

Wondering if it's fixable? Where the indent is connects to the hallway, living and dining room and bedrooms.

It's not noticeable from certain angles but it it noticeable.

What do you guys think? Complete resand?

[patrob]

When we first got our coffee table we loved it as the table top lifts. Useful for laptop, eating, etc. It had wheels so and had to place our rug.

Well, the coffee table was easily moved but left two indents on the floor about 7 ft long. Most of it is covered by the rung but about 3 ft still shows.

I think we have a brazilian type, it's kinda pinkish and everyone complements us.

Wondering if it's fixable? Where the indent is connects to the hallway, living and dining room and bedrooms.

It's not noticeable from certain angles but it it noticeable.

What do you guys think? Complete resand?

If the damage is 7ft. long across the boards, you might have to replace the whole room. If it's the long way with the boards, individual boards can be replaced as long as you know or have the exact wood. Now you know you should not push/drag anything on the floor :)

[iwells]

Thanks Patrob...blooddy coffee table has wheels but didn't realize how heavy it was it until afterwards.

We're the second owners of this house, is there a way of determining exact wood? There doesn't appear to be any extra planks laying around garage or basement. We were told it was Brazilian Bamboo (can't be exact).

Would we have to remove a few pieces to determine what it is?

One thing I know is that the wood doesn't leave a nail dent when I dig my nail into it. That's my test for density on wood :p

I may try to ask the previous owner.

Thanks again.

[patrob]

Thanks Patrob...blooddy coffee table has wheels but didn't realize how heavy it was it until afterwards.

We're the second owners of this house, is there a way of determining exact wood? There doesn't appear to be any extra planks laying around garage or basement. We were told it was Brazilian Bamboo (can't be exact).

Would we have to remove a few pieces to determine what it is?

One thing I know is that the wood doesn't leave a nail dent when I dig my nail into it. That's my test for density on wood :p

I may try to ask the previous owner.

Thanks again.
Do not remove any pieces of wood, it will not help. If you were told it's Brazilian bamboo, you're in trouble. There is so much variation in bamboo & so many manufacturers it might be hard to find an exact match. Try Home Depot (http://www.homedepot.ca/product/brazilian-teak-strandwoven-bamboo-prefinished-solid-hardwood-flooring/980481) maybe?

[redac]

just wasn't sure if laminate in the basement is a good idea. But thank you!!!

I put good laminate in my basement a few years ago on top of Barricade and it's been holding up great.

[harry420]

I just purchased new house. I went to the decor centre and was just amazed by how much these guys were charging to Stain the floors and staircase. Also, to put hardwood on the 2nd floor. How much do you charge for the stains? Hardwood from the builder comes with natural finish. Hardwood is in living room, family room and staircase. Here are the dimensions:

Family room : 17''0 x 12''0
living room: 12''6 x 20''.0

Have staircase going to the basement and going to 2nd floor.

Someone told me it might be easier for the contractor if I don't get the hardwood stained at all and do the staining after.

[fetita]

Hi Patrob
I'm looking to replace my old parquet floors with hardwood (possibly oak)- about $1000 sq. ft. I've read most of the 400 pages of this thread but I still have some questions.
Seeing that I plan to stay in the house only 2-3 more years, would it be OK if I went with Appalachian or Coswick instead of the more expensive Mirage or Vintage? Also, I see that installation is usually around $2 per sq. ft., does this include baseboards/quarter round or just the installation of the floor itself?
Third, is engineered a better option than solid hardwood, seeing that I have a dog? I don't mind the 'loved' look of wood floors, but I'm thinking ahead.
Thank you very much for all the info you're providing on this forum

[patrob]

I just purchased new house. I went to the decor centre and was just amazed by how much these guys were charging to Stain the floors and staircase. Also, to put hardwood on the 2nd floor. How much do you charge for the stains? Hardwood from the builder comes with natural finish. Hardwood is in living room, family room and staircase. Here are the dimensions:

Family room : 17''0 x 12''0
living room: 12''6 x 20''.0

Have staircase going to the basement and going to 2nd floor.

Someone told me it might be easier for the contractor if I don't get the hardwood stained at all and do the staining after.

That's how builders make money ;) What did the builder quote you for staining the stairs & upgrade to stained floors?

You cannot just stain floors, it has to be re-sanded, stained & varnished so very often it's cheaper to pay the builder for the colour if your choice rather than going through the mess of refinishing later. Stairs must be raw wood (not varnished!) or otherwise it will cost you a lot to have it refinished. If they will agree to leave stairs unfinished, you can try & do it yourself after closing to save $.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob
I'm looking to replace my old parquet floors with hardwood (possibly oak)- about $1000 sq. ft. I've read most of the 400 pages of this thread but I still have some questions.
Seeing that I plan to stay in the house only 2-3 more years, would it be OK if I went with Appalachian or Coswick instead of the more expensive Mirage or Vintage? Also, I see that installation is usually around $2 per sq. ft., does this include baseboards/quarter round or just the installation of the floor itself?
Third, is engineered a better option than solid hardwood, seeing that I have a dog? I don't mind the 'loved' look of wood floors, but I'm thinking ahead.
Thank you very much for all the info you're providing on this forum

Sure that's fine. If you have a dog & you want your floors to look good for few years, go with a distressed product. Engineered hardwood is the same as regular hardwood unless you are referring to laminate. $2 is just for the installation, baseboards, removal, prep is all extra.

[fetita]

Thank you PatRob. I thought the engineered hardwood can't be refinished (or can be refinished just once) and the solid hardwood can be refinished multiple times...maybe I'm confused. I wouldn't consider laminate, my dog likes to run around and can't break on the laminate lol.
Do you know what I should expect to be charged for baseboards and quarter round in terms of labour? Is it about the same as installation, around $2 per foot?
Thank you so much

[Midmod]

Great thread patrob!! Read a lot of it. I saw a post a few pages back on hydronic floor heating. I love the idea but the thought of expensive hardwood on top of water tubing makes me nervous. Is this something you have seen a lot of. The PEX tubing appears to have a long life as does the spacing grid it sits in. Is there a preferred flooring type or install method you suggest.

[patrob]

Thank you PatRob. I thought the engineered hardwood can't be refinished (or can be refinished just once) and the solid hardwood can be refinished multiple times...maybe I'm confused. I wouldn't consider laminate, my dog likes to run around and can't break on the laminate lol.
Do you know what I should expect to be charged for baseboards and quarter round in terms of labour? Is it about the same as installation, around $2 per foot?
Thank you so much

Yes you can refinish engineered hardwood especially the 3/4" one ;) So it depends what you get & how much you pay, usually the lower the price, the thinner it is. Baseboard installation cost will vary based on how tall the baseboard is, how thick, if mdf or wood, etc. Quarter round is around $2 ln. ft.+-, doorstop moulding might be a few cents more.

[patrob]

Great thread patrob!! Read a lot of it. I saw a post a few pages back on hydronic floor heating. I love the idea but the thought of expensive hardwood on top of water tubing makes me nervous. Is this something you have seen a lot of. The PEX tubing appears to have a long life as does the spacing grid it sits in. Is there a preferred flooring type or install method you suggest.

We have installed engineered wood on hydro heated concrete, again engineered wood on plywood hydro heated sub-floor. And we have also installed solid wood over plywood hydro heated. So far haven't seen any leaks if it's done right. Def. prefer engineered wood over solid on any heated surface. Not every manufacturer will warranty the floor over heat so make sure you make the right choice and follow the guidelines.

[lvxihan]

hi Patrob,

Two year later I am back to this thread - I moved to this new house and am doing flooring/stairs again.

On the pictures you can see the top of the stairs and the second floor hallway. I am about to put nosing on but I am not sure what to do with the top of the stringer. The nosing (red lines) will not cover the top part of the stringer (blue lines)

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j415/lvxihan/IMG_4093.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j415/lvxihan/IMG_4094.jpg

Should I cut the stringer? Or attach a small piece of flooring wood on it? Or just paint it white and leave it as is?

Thanks!
James

[patrob]

hi Patrob,

Two year later I am back to this thread - I moved to this new house and am doing flooring/stairs again.

On the pictures you can see the top of the stairs and the second floor hallway. I am about to put nosing on but I am not sure what to do with the top of the stringer. The nosing (red lines) will not cover the top part of the stringer (blue lines)

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j415/lvxihan/IMG_4093.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j415/lvxihan/IMG_4094.jpg

Should I cut the stringer? Or attach a small piece of flooring wood on it? Or just paint it white and leave it as is?

Thanks!
James

You can either cut it down a little bit for the lip of the nosing, send it smooth & paint it or notch the bottom of the nosing to flat to cover the stringer & touch up the exposed part.

[wally_walrus]

Hi Patrob, thanks for still answering questions - great information in this thread! I am ready to place an order for Vintage Solid Sawn Hand Scraped (Hickory). I have a question about the stairs... My idea was to use 7" planks, and with the 4" nosing - that's 11" (enough to cover the treads), while the risers will also be made out of 7" planks (possibly cut lengthwise). The problem is that the 7" come in lengths of anywhere from 16" to 88" (with an average of 58") and there's no way they can sell me long-enough pieces (ie longer than 34") to ensure single piece treads. So I will most likely have to make it out of 2-3 pcs (with a nice pattern). Is this a common way of doing stairs? I asked around and got the impression that it's not. Could you offer any insight?

Also related... I was able to get a price of $8.50/sqf for the 5" (~400sf) and $9.25/sqf for the 7" (under 100 sf) Solid Sawn Hand Scraped Hickory in Ottawa. How does it sound? I know pricing in Ottawa vs Toronto has been discussed here a while back

TIA

[patrob]

Hi Patrob, thanks for still answering questions - great information in this thread! I am ready to place an order for Vintage Solid Sawn Hand Scraped (Hickory). I have a question about the stairs... My idea was to use 7" planks, and with the 4" nosing - that's 11" (enough to cover the treads), while the risers will also be made out of 7" planks (possibly cut lengthwise). The problem is that the 7" come in lengths of anywhere from 16" to 88" (with an average of 58") and there's no way they can sell me long-enough pieces (ie longer than 34") to ensure single piece treads. So I will most likely have to make it out of 2-3 pcs (with a nice pattern). Is this a common way of doing stairs? I asked around and got the impression that it's not. Could you offer any insight?

Also related... I was able to get a price of $8.50/sqf for the 5" (~400sf) and $9.25/sqf for the 7" (under 100 sf) Solid Sawn Hand Scraped Hickory in Ottawa. How does it sound? I know pricing in Ottawa vs Toronto has been discussed here a while back

TIA
While you are doing the floors, you can easily pull out the longer boards for the stairs. If one plank covers the tread nicely, it should be fine. The common way of doing the stairs is to cap the treads with solid wooden treads. The price you got quoted is def. not the lowest, maybe you're planning a trip to TO :lol: ;)

[wally_walrus]

Hi Patrob, thanks for still answering questions - great information in this thread! I am ready to place an order for Vintage Solid Sawn Hand Scraped (Hickory). I have a question about the stairs... My idea was to use 7" planks, and with the 4" nosing - that's 11" (enough to cover the treads), while the risers will also be made out of 7" planks (possibly cut lengthwise). The problem is that the 7" come in lengths of anywhere from 16" to 88" (with an average of 58") and there's no way they can sell me long-enough pieces (ie longer than 34") to ensure single piece treads. So I will most likely have to make it out of 2-3 pcs (with a nice pattern). Is this a common way of doing stairs? I asked around and got the impression that it's not. Could you offer any insight?

Also related... I was able to get a price of $8.50/sqf for the 5" (~400sf) and $9.25/sqf for the 7" (under 100 sf) Solid Sawn Hand Scraped Hickory in Ottawa. How does it sound? I know pricing in Ottawa vs Toronto has been discussed here a while back

TIA


While you are doing the floors, you can easily pull out the longer boards for the stairs. If one plank covers the tread nicely, it should be fine. The common way of doing the stairs is to cap the treads with solid wooden treads. The price you got quoted is def. not the lowest, maybe you're planning a trip to TO :lol: ;)


Thank you! Forgot to mention that the floor will be done with 5" while the stairs will be 7" (so one-piece covers the whole tread), so I cannot use floor planks for the stairs. I was curious if you see anything wrong (or odd) with this way of doing the stairs.

Also in case I decide to make the treads (and risers) out of 2-3 pcs instead of one (so I cut the waste), is there a good way to create a pattern? Any good pictures of this that you can share?

Pricing - I was quoted $7.95 over the phone from Darmaga, so for ~350sf I'm looking at ~$150 to $200 savings. Not worth the trip, unless the savings are quite a bit higher :)

[price31]

Hi Patrob

I have just recently purchased a condo and we are offered the choices between Richmond Laminate Tribeca flooring or Riverside engineered flooring.

I believe the Richmond Laminate Tribeca flooring are rated AC4 and are 10mm thick with a 30yr-Residential warranty.
As for the Riverside engineered flooring, it is these ones: http://www.kent.ca/kbs/en/product.jsp?prdId=5250583&skuId=5250583&catalogId=45

Which one do you recommend in terms of quality, and resale value?

I have some friends who have laminate floors and I feel that they are "bubbly" which is something I'm not too fond of. The condo designer told me that she recommends us to take the laminate flooring, I am unsure if she has other motives.

Please let me know what you think, greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

[patrob]

Thank you! Forgot to mention that the floor will be done with 5" while the stairs will be 7" (so one-piece covers the whole tread), so I cannot use floor planks for the stairs. I was curious if you see anything wrong (or odd) with this way of doing the stairs.

Also in case I decide to make the treads (and risers) out of 2-3 pcs instead of one (so I cut the waste), is there a good way to create a pattern? Any good pictures of this that you can share?

Pricing - I was quoted $7.95 over the phone from Darmaga, so for ~350sf I'm looking at ~$150 to $200 savings. Not worth the trip, unless the savings are quite a bit higher :)

We don't do stairs out of planks so I don't have any pics. I rather do the stairs & risers from 5" full lengths rather than have a joint in the middle. Looks better to have length wise than across. To minimize the waste use nosing, 5" & then cut & for the riser us the remainder of the cut & the 5" & so on. You will never know what you will get in the box in 7" but you can pull out what you need from 5" while you are doing the rest.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob

I have just recently purchased a condo and we are offered the choices between Richmond Laminate Tribeca flooring or Riverside engineered flooring.

I believe the Richmond Laminate Tribeca flooring are rated AC4 and are 10mm thick with a 30yr-Residential warranty.
As for the Riverside engineered flooring, it is these ones: http://www.kent.ca/kbs/en/product.jsp?prdId=5250583&skuId=5250583&catalogId=45

Which one do you recommend in terms of quality, and resale value?

I have some friends who have laminate floors and I feel that they are "bubbly" which is something I'm not too fond of. The condo designer told me that she recommends us to take the laminate flooring, I am unsure if she has other motives.

Please let me know what you think, greatly appreciated!

Thank you!
For resale go with engineered hardwood it looks & feels richer. For durability laminate. We noticed many condo owners wear shoes inside & if you are one of them, go with laminate. BTW, are both products the same price?

[wally_walrus]

Thank you! Forgot to mention that the floor will be done with 5" while the stairs will be 7" (so one-piece covers the whole tread), so I cannot use floor planks for the stairs. I was curious if you see anything wrong (or odd) with this way of doing the stairs.

Also in case I decide to make the treads (and risers) out of 2-3 pcs instead of one (so I cut the waste), is there a good way to create a pattern? Any good pictures of this that you can share?

Pricing - I was quoted $7.95 over the phone from Darmaga, so for ~350sf I'm looking at ~$150 to $200 savings. Not worth the trip, unless the savings are quite a bit higher :)


We don't do stairs out of planks so I don't have any pics. I rather do the stairs & risers from 5" full lengths rather than have a joint in the middle. Looks better to have length wise than across. To minimize the waste use nosing, 5" & then cut & for the riser us the remainder of the cut & the 5" & so on. You will never know what you will get in the box in 7" but you can pull out what you need from 5" while you are doing the rest.

Thank you Patrob! However...

BIG letdown from Vintage! Last Thursday I asked the dealer to check whether there is stock and they said there was. Today I went in to place my order, and when the saleswoman called to check again she was told not only they don't have stock but they won't produce any until the end of January. So now all my plans with the installer and having it installed before Christmas went down the drain

^$@($&$(%(#$(%@!#*!)$

[price31]

Thank you patrob!

Yes, they charge us the same price. We are not the type that wear shoes in our condo so we will definitely go with the Riverside flooring.

Thank you again, it is very much appreciated!

[osteveoo]

Thanks for the thread Patrob.A lot of good stuff in the 500 or so pages.
I live in a house thats about 130 years old . The floors are 5.5' wide pine and they are done .My question to you is can I install new hardwood over it or do I have to rip it out.

[madtonic]

Patrob or anyone else with advice to give. I live in a 5 year old house and will be installing approximately 500 sq feet of flooring in living room, kitchen and hallways. I will be attempting to install this myself. I am a complete amateur but would have the assistance of what I consider a decently skilled do-it-yourselfer. I only plan to stay in the house for about 4 more years so long term longevity is not a concern. I have no pets and there is only three people living in the house. I am not looking to spend a lot of money. I want to replace the stretched carpets with something visually pleasing, that will last 5 years, not break the bank, and possibly increase the sellibility (not necessarily the value) of the home. I am curious what you think of the Schon Quick Clic Engineered Hardwood http://http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/can/c/Natural-Hickory-Sch%C3%B6n-Quick-Clic-Engineered-QCHIK4/10007642 (http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/can/c/Natural-Hickory-Sch%C3%B6n-Quick-Clic-Engineered-QCHIK4/10007642) - It seems like a great price and should be a pretty easy install. Other than that can you recommend anything else in the hardwood/engineered categories in maple or hickory (need light floors or light with contrasting pieces) that is lower priced and where I can get it? (GTA - preferably North or East of Toronto). I don't mind lower grades as I actually like the colour variations that some seem to have. I am not interested in Laminate. Thanks and I enjoy your posts.

[moonbaby]

Thanks a lot or the info! We are looking to install hardwood in our home (which we just got). The previous owners have carpet.

I really like birch hand scraped wood (walnut) we saw at Home Depot. Now this wood didn't have any scratches on it. There were just subtle groves or dents in the wood. Other than that, it's flawless. I thought hand scraped wood came with scratches, etc. (that worn look)? Am I wrong or are there different kinds of hand scraped wood?

Thanks.

[patrob]

Thank you Patrob! However...

BIG letdown from Vintage! Last Thursday I asked the dealer to check whether there is stock and they said there was. Today I went in to place my order, and when the saleswoman called to check again she was told not only they don't have stock but they won't produce any until the end of January. So now all my plans with the installer and having it installed before Christmas went down the drain

^$@($&$(%(#$(%@!#*!)$

Stock changes everyday so it's really your dealers fault for giving you the wrong info. All solid sawn products are in high demand it's best to order well in advance.

[patrob]

Thanks for the thread Patrob.A lot of good stuff in the 500 or so pages.
I live in a house thats about 130 years old . The floors are 5.5' wide pine and they are done .My question to you is can I install new hardwood over it or do I have to rip it out.

More likely the floors are also the sub-floor. You can install the new floors over it as long as it's fairly flat, free of squeaks & fairly rigid. You can always install 1/4" plywood over it.

[patrob]

Patrob or anyone else with advice to give. I live in a 5 year old house and will be installing approximately 500 sq feet of flooring in living room, kitchen and hallways. I will be attempting to install this myself. I am a complete amateur but would have the assistance of what I consider a decently skilled do-it-yourselfer. I only plan to stay in the house for about 4 more years so long term longevity is not a concern. I have no pets and there is only three people living in the house. I am not looking to spend a lot of money. I want to replace the stretched carpets with something visually pleasing, that will last 5 years, not break the bank, and possibly increase the sellibility (not necessarily the value) of the home. I am curious what you think of the Schon Quick Clic Engineered Hardwood http://http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/can/c/Natural-Hickory-Sch%C3%B6n-Quick-Clic-Engineered-QCHIK4/10007642 (http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/can/c/Natural-Hickory-Sch%C3%B6n-Quick-Clic-Engineered-QCHIK4/10007642) - It seems like a great price and should be a pretty easy install. Other than that can you recommend anything else in the hardwood/engineered categories in maple or hickory (need light floors or light with contrasting pieces) that is lower priced and where I can get it? (GTA - preferably North or East of Toronto). I don't mind lower grades as I actually like the colour variations that some seem to have. I am not interested in Laminate. Thanks and I enjoy your posts.

Any type of click flooring is DIY friendly. If it looks decent & you like it, then go ahead as price seams low.

BTW, you can vote & rate this thread 5 stars if you find it helpful :)

[patrob]

Thanks a lot or the info! We are looking to install hardwood in our home (which we just got). The previous owners have carpet.

I really like birch hand scraped wood (walnut) we saw at Home Depot. Now this wood didn't have any scratches on it. There were just subtle groves or dents in the wood. Other than that, it's flawless. I thought hand scraped wood came with scratches, etc. (that worn look)? Am I wrong or are there different kinds of hand scraped wood?

Thanks.

Distressed hardwood will have all sorts of visible man-made damage. True hand scraped is scraped by hand but majority is scraped by machine. Some are very gentle, others have very deep scraping, etc. Birch is very similar to maple with very smooth grain so the scraping will be slightly less visible.

[jp23456]

Hi: I leaked water accidentally on condo below, damaged the floor and am prepared to make good.

I suspect however that the owner below has already claimed against insurance so would be 'double dipping.'
Is there a way to suss this out?

Because of nature of damage it could have looked like an overflowing tub so the insurance company wouldn't have known to come after me (the condo building fixed walls and ceiling).

Thanks much.

[wally_walrus]

Thank you Patrob! However...

BIG letdown from Vintage! Last Thursday I asked the dealer to check whether there is stock and they said there was. Today I went in to place my order, and when the saleswoman called to check again she was told not only they don't have stock but they won't produce any until the end of January. So now all my plans with the installer and having it installed before Christmas went down the drain

^$@($&$(%(#$(%@!#*!)$


Stock changes everyday so it's really your dealers fault for giving you the wrong info. All solid sawn products are in high demand it's best to order well in advance.

I don't blame the dealer, she told me what she was told over the phone by Vintage. I was just surprised at the "antiquated" business model where you still have to call to get stock figures (in this day and age when everyone puts the info on the web)

But back to the stairs... I would still prefer to do both treads and risers from 7" planks (even if we lay them in a "brick-like" pattern) rather then long and doubled-up 5". Do you see anything wrong conceptually with that?

Thanks a bunch in advance!

[patrob]

Hi: I leaked water accidentally on condo below, damaged the floor and am prepared to make good.

I suspect however that the owner below has already claimed against insurance so would be 'double dipping.'
Is there a way to suss this out?

Because of nature of damage it could have looked like an overflowing tub so the insurance company wouldn't have known to come after me (the condo building fixed walls and ceiling).

Thanks much.

I have no idea on how to help you. You should speak to your insurance company about this.

[patrob]

I don't blame the dealer, she told me what she was told over the phone by Vintage. I was just surprised at the "antiquated" business model where you still have to call to get stock figures (in this day and age when everyone puts the info on the web)

But back to the stairs... I would still prefer to do both treads and risers from 7" planks (even if we lay them in a "brick-like" pattern) rather then long and doubled-up 5". Do you see anything wrong conceptually with that?

Thanks a bunch in advance!
Dealers don't have instant stock information. The stock changes so fast, there is no time for updates and you have to also consider there are prepaid orders that will not show as available stock. So phone or email still the best way.

Yes it's fine to use the 7" planks on stairs.

[hoob]

Not really about hardwood but it's "related".

For my kitchen reno at my new place, I have decided to go with a "faux wood" tile instead of real wood, for a range of reasons. The tile "planks" are all around 6" by 36" and are very realistically patterned and the print varies from tile to tile.

The question is... What is the usual "staggering" used for faux wood tile? Should be be made to look random? Or a specifed offset pattern? Or corner to corner? Just curious..

http://hoob.smugmug.com/Home-Living/Pickering-House-Renos/i-BJ8cFvS/0/O/tile_sample_ink_black_settecento_90.jpg (http://www.settecento.com/en/serie_fondi.php?cod=22)

[patrob]

Not really about hardwood but it's "related".

For my kitchen reno at my new place, I have decided to go with a "faux wood" tile instead of real wood, for a range of reasons. The tile "planks" are all around 6" by 36" and are very realistically patterned and the print varies from tile to tile.

The question is... What is the usual "staggering" used for faux wood tile? Should be be made to look random? Or a specifed offset pattern? Or corner to corner? Just curious..

http://www.settecento.com/images/prodotti/LODGE/articoli/small/161012.jpg (http://www.settecento.com/en/serie_fondi.php?cod=22)

You can install any way you want brick joint, off set or random. Try to search for pics and ideas and see what you like best.

[tockty]

Hi Patrob, can you please recommend a hardwood cleaner for maple floor? and where to buy it.Thanks

[patrob]

Hi Patrob, can you please recommend a hardwood cleaner for maple floor? and where to buy it.Thanks

Thy this (http://www.vintageflooring.com/ecommerce/product_detail.php?id=177) one, it's very good.

[utopianbl]

Hi patrob - I recently purchased a home which has dark shiny red oak wood flooring. It looks gorgious - but I have no discovered that all the moving,shifting and decorating there are some scratch marks along with some wood dent marks. Is there any way to polish this or fix this without having to rip the entire wood out and install new one?

Also when I was at the home depot I saw different wood surface cleaners but many were saying that they cannot be applied for waxed floors, any idea how to identify if the flooring I have is waxed or not? There is definitely a sheen to the floors...

[Milkweed]

Hi Patrob,

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

I had water leak through the window sil onto my hardwood oak flooring behind one of my curtains and the flooring is beginning to buckle in a 2ftx 2ft section.

1. How quickly should this be repaired (window sil has been repaired so no more dripping.

2. Can this be DIY

3. How far out should i remove the strips

Thanks For your help.

Mike

[patrob]

Hi patrob - I recently purchased a home which has dark shiny red oak wood flooring. It looks gorgious - but I have no discovered that all the moving,shifting and decorating there are some scratch marks along with some wood dent marks. Is there any way to polish this or fix this without having to rip the entire wood out and install new one?

Also when I was at the home depot I saw different wood surface cleaners but many were saying that they cannot be applied for waxed floors, any idea how to identify if the flooring I have is waxed or not? There is definitely a sheen to the floors...

If the floors are waxed, you can have it buffed & coated. If the floors are site finished or pre-finished with varnish or polyurethane, you have to have it re-sanded or screen & coated. No need to rip them out & replace with new ones unless they are in really bad shape & have already been refinished a few times.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

Thanks for taking the time to do this.

I had water leak through the window sil onto my hardwood oak flooring behind one of my curtains and the flooring is beginning to buckle in a 2ftx 2ft section.

1. How quickly should this be repaired (window sil has been repaired so no more dripping.

2. Can this be DIY

3. How far out should i remove the strips

Thanks For your help.

Mike

You don't have to fix it right away, as long as it's dry. Yes this could be a DIY if you have the tools, patience & matching wood. You have to remove & replace all damaged planks. At the same time check if you don't have to replace a piece of the sub-floor.

[random pattern]

Hi Patrob,

First of all, thank you for this thread.

We just bought a new (resale) home that has nice hardwood floors and a nice hardwood circular staircase. The problem is that we don't like the colour. We'd like to re-finish the floors and staircase and are looking for a quote. We plan on using one of our visits in the next day or so - Other than dimensions, what kind of information do you need in order to give us an idea of cost? Should we just take pictures and email them to you?

Also, do you happen to do things like installing crown moulding and wainscoting as well, or just flooring?

Thanks in advance.

[firecow]

Hi Patrob,

This is probably the first of many questions! Great thread by the way! Wish I had the time to read all 400+ pages :)

I'm located in Montreal and shopping around for a hardwood flooring brand (leaning towards engineered at the moment). Based on what I've seen and what's been recommended in this forum, I have 3 options:

(1) Mirage
(2) Preverco
(3) Mercier

Any recommendations on deciding between the three brands? I'm willing to pay a little extra for better quality. Also, are all micro-bevels pretty much the same from brand to brand, or are some brands larger than others. My current hardwood floor (which I love and will miss when I move) is perfectly flat with no micro-V and the thought of a floor with bevels scares me. LOL.

thanks for your advice!

Jason

[cypher]

Hi Patrob,

I'm slowly making my way through the thread, but had a question that's been bothering me. How does one decide where to start laying hardwood? I'm planning on doing my second floor in the next couple of months and this is the current layout:

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/315/currentsecondfloor.png

Can I start in Bedroom 1 and work my way out towards the hallway or am I better off starting in the hallway?

In case it matters, the existing flooring is as follows:

1) Parquet flooring - Bedroom 1, Bedroom 2, Bedroom 3
2) Hardwood - Hallway, Office, Bedroom 4

Thanks again

[MHayes]

Patrob,

I'm pretty new to the flooring game...
I've read through about 100 pages of posts in this thread, and I am becoming more informed by the minute! I haven't, however, seen anything in here that pertains to my situation.
I have recently taken up employment with a company in which I am in charge of the flooring department (Lots of experience in business...none of it in flooring). I am running a retail gig, and I am looking for different suppliers. So to my questions....
1. Do you think that investing in the NWFA membership is worth while for a retailer to network new manufacturers?
2. Any strategy tips on sourcing out manufacturing companies that are FSC certified? I've tried the FSC website and such...

Thanks!

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

First of all, thank you for this thread.

We just bought a new (resale) home that has nice hardwood floors and a nice hardwood circular staircase. The problem is that we don't like the colour. We'd like to re-finish the floors and staircase and are looking for a quote. We plan on using one of our visits in the next day or so - Other than dimensions, what kind of information do you need in order to give us an idea of cost? Should we just take pictures and email them to you?

Also, do you happen to do things like installing crown moulding and wainscoting as well, or just flooring?

Thanks in advance.
Sorry we don't do refinishing ourselves but you can contact me for a recommendation. We concentrate mostly on flooring :)

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

This is probably the first of many questions! Great thread by the way! Wish I had the time to read all 400+ pages :)

I'm located in Montreal and shopping around for a hardwood flooring brand (leaning towards engineered at the moment). Based on what I've seen and what's been recommended in this forum, I have 3 options:

(1) Mirage
(2) Preverco
(3) Mercier

Any recommendations on deciding between the three brands? I'm willing to pay a little extra for better quality. Also, are all micro-bevels pretty much the same from brand to brand, or are some brands larger than others. My current hardwood floor (which I love and will miss when I move) is perfectly flat with no micro-V and the thought of a floor with bevels scares me. LOL.

thanks for your advice!

Jason

Diff. manufacturers have diff. bevels but honestly there is nothing to be scared of ;)
As the most reputable, I recommend Mirage out of the 3 choices. But at the same time it will be the most expensive.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

I'm slowly making my way through the thread, but had a question that's been bothering me. How does one decide where to start laying hardwood? I'm planning on doing my second floor in the next couple of months and this is the current layout:

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/315/currentsecondfloor.png

Can I start in Bedroom 1 and work my way out towards the hallway or am I better off starting in the hallway?

In case it matters, the existing flooring is as follows:

1) Parquet flooring - Bedroom 1, Bedroom 2, Bedroom 3
2) Hardwood - Hallway, Office, Bedroom 4

Thanks again
Yes you can start in bed. 1 on the entrance wall & work your way to the outside wall. Make sure everything is squared off so shoot some lines & measure it out. Make sure your nosing is 3/4".

[patrob]

Patrob,

I'm pretty new to the flooring game...
I've read through about 100 pages of posts in this thread, and I am becoming more informed by the minute! I haven't, however, seen anything in here that pertains to my situation.
I have recently taken up employment with a company in which I am in charge of the flooring department (Lots of experience in business...none of it in flooring). I am running a retail gig, and I am looking for different suppliers. So to my questions....
1. Do you think that investing in the NWFA membership is worth while for a retailer to network new manufacturers?
2. Any strategy tips on sourcing out manufacturing companies that are FSC certified? I've tried the FSC website and such...

Thanks!
It's good to be a NWFA member, you will be able to get a lot of helpful info. & advice. You should be able to get FSC info. from NWFA.

[mlc2000]

We're going to renovate our kitchen this spring. Currently the majority of our main floor is 2" wide hardwood.
We have wood stairs with carpet runners. We'd like to replace the hardwood and have it match the stairs.
I was thinking we would dip and stain the balusters, and possibly strip and stain the wood stairs but we were recently advised that the height of our handrails
are no longer code. Will it be about the same price to do wrought iron balusters instead?? and can you also recommend
a good quality hand scraped darker wood ?

Lots of questions....here's a pic of the stairs.

http://i49.tinypic.com/33xdmon.jpg

[patrob]

We're going to renovate our kitchen this spring. Currently the majority of our main floor is 2" wide hardwood.
We have wood stairs with carpet runners. We'd like to replace the hardwood and have it match the stairs.
I was thinking we would dip and stain the balusters, and possibly strip and stain the wood stairs but we were recently advised that the height of our handrails
are no longer code. Will it be about the same price to do wrought iron balusters instead?? and can you also recommend
a good quality hand scraped darker wood ?

Lots of questions....here's a pic of the stairs.

http://i49.tinypic.com/33xdmon.jpg

If you remove and reinstall your existing pickets, they don't have to be up to code. If you are replacing with new, then you have to go with new code.
It's extremely hard to fully clean the varnish off the wooden pickets so considering the labour involved, you might be better off buying the iron pickets plus IMO it will nicer too ;) Yes I can recommend the perfect hand scraped product & hopefully it's in your budget :D

[Maymybonneliveforever]

If you remove and reinstall your existing pickets, they don't have to be up to code. If you are replacing with new, then you have to go with new code. I can recommend the perfect hand scraped product & hopefully it's in your budget :DWhat is the new code for balusters and who do you recomend for good quality solid wrought iron balusters. Last I check they were more expensive then solid oak, for the good quality that is. If you want the hollow they can be found less expensive then solid oak.

[patrob]

What is the new code for balusters and who do you recomend for good quality solid wrought iron balusters. Last I check they were more expensive then solid oak, for the good quality that is. If you want the hollow they can be found less expensive then solid oak.

From what I know it's 36" unless it changed. Some older houses have 32" so that will have to be changed if you are installing new. Visually there is not that much diff. between hollow or solid iron pickets. I don't really have a contact for iron pickets.

[mlc2000]

Well, the kitchen design guy was trying to sell us some hand scraped Japanese wood, for $15,000 (approx 1300 sq feet)
He said that was based on about $12/sq foot installed. As most installers appear to he in the $2/sq foot range, that leaves about $10/ft for the flooring,
which seems very expensive. We really like the look of the 5" and 7" Vintage Hand Scraped Baroque products.
What concerns us is matching the wood on the stairs. I think we would be better to get the iron pickets, and get new railings.
Is there a way to restain the stairs? or is it more economical to replace the stairs?


We know its going to be a very big job.

[patrob]

Well, the kitchen design guy was trying to sell us some hand scraped Japanese wood, for $15,000 (approx 1300 sq feet)
He said that was based on about $12/sq foot installed. As most installers appear to he in the $2/sq foot range, that leaves about $10/ft for the flooring,
which seems very expensive. We really like the look of the 5" and 7" Vintage Hand Scraped Baroque products.
What concerns us is matching the wood on the stairs. I think we would be better to get the iron pickets, and get new railings.
Is there a way to restain the stairs? or is it more economical to replace the stairs?

We know its going to be a very big job.

Never heard of hand scraped Japanese floors, maybe he meant Chinese :D
You can get MUCH better quality hand scraped floors for less than what he quoted you!
I thought you might like the Baroque floors ;)

Yes you can re-sand & re-stain your stairs, no need to replace anything except the new pickets & maybe new posts with more square design possibly.
Yes it will be a big job but the end result will be beautiful :)

[mlc2000]

The quote says Pegado hand scraped floors. Does that sound better ?
I was pretty sure he said it was a Japanese wood.

Can you recommend a flooring store in Oakville/Burlington/Hamilton,Milton with the baroque floors?
Also, is the sanding staining something an amateur can do or can u recommend a contractor to do this ?

Is this something your company does ? Send me a PM.




Never heard of hand scraped Japanese floors, maybe he meant Chinese :D
You can get MUCH better quality hand scraped floors for less than what he quoted you!
I thought you might like the Baroque floors ;)

Yes you can re-sand & re-stain your stairs, no need to replace anything except the new pickets & maybe new posts with more square design possibly.
Yes it will be a big job but the end result will be beautiful :)

[patrob]

The quote says Pegado hand scraped floors. Does that sound better ?
I was pretty sure he said it was a Japanese wood.

Can you recommend a flooring store in Oakville/Burlington/Hamilton,Milton with the baroque floors?
Also, is the sanding staining something an amateur can do or can u recommend a contractor to do this ?

Is this something your company does ? Send me a PM.

I have seen DIY'ers doing the sanding & staining themselves but it's not an easy task. It takes a lot of time & patience so it's not cheap. You were thinking of changing the pickets so do the sanding when the pickets are removed. The risers & stringers are veneers & you have to be careful when sanding or you can paint it white. We have done it in the past, depends on the how busy we are :D Otherwise we do have someone for it I can recommend.

[mlc2000]

I have seen DIY'ers doing the sanding & staining themselves but it's not an easy task. It takes a lot of time & patience so it's not cheap. You were thinking of changing the pickets so do the sanding when the pickets are removed. The risers & stringers are veneers & you have to be careful when sanding or you can paint it white. We have done it in the past, depends on the how busy we are :D Otherwise we do have someone for it I can recommend.

Can u recommend any place that sells the iron/aluminum pickets?

[caraj4u]

Hello Patrob,

can you recommend a good hardwood installer in waterloo region?

thxs

[patrob]

Can u recommend any place that sells the iron/aluminum pickets?

Unfortunately don't have any contact for metal pickets.

[patrob]

Hello Patrob,

can you recommend a good hardwood installer in waterloo region?

thxs

What are you installing and how many sq. ft.?

[caraj4u]

What are you installing and how many sq. ft.?

Mirage maple...around 450 sq. feet

[EchoAngel911]

i'm going to do some renovation and i am afraid i might damage the laminate flooring. What can i do to protect the flooring? is there anything HD has?

[nyik]

patrob, thanks for heading this thread.

I'm starting to look into replacing carpet on the main floor (living room + dining room, about 500 sq ft). I'm perusing the thread, and there's lots of information to assimilate.

Few questions:

1. I don't want expensive wood, but not cheap either. What's considered cheap? What are your thoughts about the Costco Golden laminate line? Products from Home Depot and such? I'm thinking I'd like engineered hardwood, should be fairly scuff proof as I have dogs, and will be having kids soon.

2. I'm finding it hard to "see" the final result in my head to properly pick out a style/color. I saw on Mirage there's a virtual production selector where you can apply different products to see how it looks in a room. Are there other apps out there that do this? I may find another product not from Mirage that I'd like to see the final result.

3. I've put down laminate before, is laying down engineered hardwood the same thing? I heard about nailing and gluing - is this the best way to go? How hard is it to jump from snap together laminate to gluing/nailing?

4. The rooms are quite standard, rectangular (13x18, 13x14), so there wouldn't be any funky cuts. How would you recommend doing the transition between the room and the main floor hallway which is tile? There is an existing piece of marble that transitions from the tile to the carpet.

Thanks!!

[Capt.]

Does anyone have any retail store suggestions for the Markham, Scarborough, Ajax, Pickering area?

Also is it possible to buy good quality solid hardwood in the $4-5 sq/ft range?

[patrob]

i'm going to do some renovation and i am afraid i might damage the laminate flooring. What can i do to protect the flooring? is there anything HD has?

Cover with construction paper and get thin sheeting material (tentis board). Available at lumber supply stores.

[patrob]

patrob, thanks for heading this thread.

I'm starting to look into replacing carpet on the main floor (living room + dining room, about 500 sq ft). I'm perusing the thread, and there's lots of information to assimilate.

Few questions:

1. I don't want expensive wood, but not cheap either. What's considered cheap? What are your thoughts about the Costco Golden laminate line? Products from Home Depot and such? I'm thinking I'd like engineered hardwood, should be fairly scuff proof as I have dogs, and will be having kids soon.

2. I'm finding it hard to "see" the final result in my head to properly pick out a style/color. I saw on Mirage there's a virtual production selector where you can apply different products to see how it looks in a room. Are there other apps out there that do this? I may find another product not from Mirage that I'd like to see the final result.

3. I've put down laminate before, is laying down engineered hardwood the same thing? I heard about nailing and gluing - is this the best way to go? How hard is it to jump from snap together laminate to gluing/nailing?

4. The rooms are quite standard, rectangular (13x18, 13x14), so there wouldn't be any funky cuts. How would you recommend doing the transition between the room and the main floor hallway which is tile? There is an existing piece of marble that transitions from the tile to the carpet.

Thanks!!

If you are worried about durability then laminate would be your best choice.
Golden Select laminate is not engineered hardwood. You can only float it, cannot be glued or nailed. There is a large thread about GS laminate on RFD, there are some pics posted so you can see how it looks installed. With each product there are instructions on how to install it. If you are handy and take your time, you should not have problem installing square rooms. As for transition, T-mold is most frequently used on floating floors.

[patrob]

Does anyone have any retail store suggestions for the Markham, Scarborough, Ajax, Pickering area?

Also is it possible to buy good quality solid hardwood in the $4-5 sq/ft range?
Closer to $5 plus tax yes, you can get good quality wood. What exactly are you looking for?

[Capt.]

We're trying to match some existing 3.25" red oak that we have down in the upstairs hallway already. Today we hit a whole bunch of the hardwood stores in the area and were able to get some prices that seem pretty good.

store 1 - Redleaf Mills
Select Oak 4" $4.69 sq. ft
Butterscotch 3.25" $4.49 sq. ft

store 2 - Bruce
Honey or Gunstock 3.25" $3.95 sq. ft

store 3 - Mercier select plus & Wickham
Mercier Honey or Red Cinnamon 3.25" $3.99 sq/ft
Wickham 4.25" $3.99 sq/ft

store 4 - R step or Right Step
Golden $4.49 sq/ft including HST

We were told the Redleaf and Bruce are US products and the Mercier, Wickham and R-step are Canadian. He said the R step is from Quebec.

Any thoughts? We really appreciate your advice!

[patrob]

We're trying to match some existing 3.25" red oak that we have down in the upstairs hallway already. Today we hit a whole bunch of the hardwood stores in the area and were able to get some prices that seem pretty good.

store 1 - Redleaf Mills
Select Oak 4" $4.69 sq. ft
Butterscotch 3.25" $4.49 sq. ft

store 2 - Bruce
Honey or Gunstock 3.25" $3.95 sq. ft

store 3 - Mercier select plus & Wickham
Mercier Honey or Red Cinnamon 3.25" $3.99 sq/ft
Wickham 4.25" $3.99 sq/ft

store 4 - R step or Right Step
Golden $4.49 sq/ft including HST

We were told the Redleaf and Bruce are US products and the Mercier, Wickham and R-step are Canadian. He said the R step is from Quebec.

Any thoughts? We really appreciate your advice!

They are all very similar, choose what matches your existing floors best.

Never heard of R Step or Redleaf :| Go with either Wickham or Mercier.

[kdamak]

There is a lot of information in this thread and I tried to spend some time reading it, so I am sorry if this was asked before.

What is your take on the following brands:
Bruce - read some poor reviews online
GRS - can't find anything on them online
Satin Finish - Found one thread on RFD where it chips... otherwise little info on it.

Thanks in advance.

[DrewS1]

The sheer amount of information in this thread is overwhelming. In a good way of course :)

I think I've narrowed my choice down to either Torlys Summit Premier, Torlys Summit Elite or Mirage Lock.

Is there a clear winner between the Torlys or Mirage? If the Torlys is the way to go, would the Elite line be worth the extra?

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer everyone's questions :)

[patrob]

There is a lot of information in this thread and I tried to spend some time reading it, so I am sorry if this was asked before.

What is your take on the following brands:
Bruce - read some poor reviews online
GRS - can't find anything on them online
Satin Finish - Found one thread on RFD where it chips... otherwise little info on it.

Thanks in advance.

Not a fan of all of the above. What's your budget & what are you looking for & how many sq. ft.?

[patrob]

The sheer amount of information in this thread is overwhelming. In a good way of course :)

I think I've narrowed my choice down to either Torlys Summit Premier, Torlys Summit Elite or Mirage Lock.

Is there a clear winner between the Torlys or Mirage? If the Torlys is the way to go, would the Elite line be worth the extra?

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer everyone's questions :)

Where is it being installed?

Both are good, so it's your choice what product you like more. You can also check out Vintage U-Lock (http://www.vintageflooring.com/product_uloc_2.php) product depending on where you're located.

[DrewS1]

Where is it being installed?

Both are good, so it's your choice what product you like more. You can also check out Vintage U-Lock (http://www.vintageflooring.com/product_uloc_2.php) product depending on where you're located.

I was really hoping there would be a clear favorite :lol:

It's being installed in a below grade basement. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the Vintage product is available on the east coast.

Even though one of the Torlys products has a cork backing the salesperson suggested that I should still install a pad underneath to dampen the sound. At a cost of .53 per sq ft is it worth it?

[patrob]

I was really hoping there would be a clear favorite :lol:

It's being installed in a below grade basement. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like the Vintage product is available on the east coast.

Even though one of the Torlys products has a cork backing the salesperson suggested that I should still install a pad underneath to dampen the sound. At a cost of .53 per sq ft is it worth it?
Regarding the underlay, you may need additional undelay depending on your circumstances. Best to contact the manufacturer directly, explain your situation and they will be glad to help. Both are good products, so can't really choose one over the other, it's now up to you whichever you like best visually.

[DrewS1]

Regarding the underlay, you may need additional undelay depending on your circumstances. Best to contact the manufacturer directly, explain your situation and they will be glad to help. Both are good products, so can't really choose one over the other, it's now up to you whichever you like best visually.

Thanks for your input patrob. :)

[patrob]

Thanks for your input patrob. :)

You're welcome ;)

[rfd1088]

Heated flooring whooboy!

[Capt.]

Thanks again for your help and advice Pat. I've now got 21 boxes of Mercier red oak sitting in my spare bedroom. Can't wait to start laying it!

[patrob]

Thanks again for your help and advice Pat. I've now got 21 boxes of Mercier red oak sitting in my spare bedroom. Can't wait to start laying it!
So is this your Christmas present :D ;)

[molo]

Hi patrob,

I've been reading this thread a while, and found some good info, but was wondering if you could clarify a couple of things for me. This will be my first flooring install, so apologies if these aren't the brightest questions:

I'm planning to hardwood my second floor, as shown here. Highlighted area is where the hardwood goes (don't worry, it won't be pink like the highlight here):
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2271/hardwoodplan.jpg
Joists are running left to right, so the direction of the planks would be vertical on this image. So, the questions are:

Where should I start? I assume against the nosing on the stairs, which would create a long row going from the hallway into the master, and into bedrooom 3 on the other end. All of the rows in the hall would then span either the entire length of the 2nd floor, or most of it.
At what point should I install the stair nosing? First or last? Because the nosings I've seen come with a groove end, but the nails go in the tongue end... so if I install it first, I would need to spline it to nail it in place and start the next row on the groove end. If I install it last, it will be tricky to have the rows from the other side of the hallway end up at the exact line for the nosing, and be perfectly straight. So what's the standard way of doing this?
If the rooms are not square, or not straight, how do I adjust for it? As you can see the first row after the nosing will be critical, as it will line up next to the master wall, and will be only a couple of rows off from the bed 3 wall.. so I am concerned about things going out of alignment here. If I chalk it out and the bed 3, hallway, and master bedroom walls are not parallel, what's the best way of compensating? Should I angle the whole chalk line to a line of best fit, and trim the underside lip of the stair nosing as needed to align it with the line? Or is there another way of accomplishing this?
What should I use for the transitions to the tiled floors in the main bath & ensuite bath? I assume "T" molding?


Thanks for your time, and all the good info you've provided in this thread.

molo

[patrob]

Hi patrob,

I've been reading this thread a while, and found some good info, but was wondering if you could clarify a couple of things for me. This will be my first flooring install, so apologies if these aren't the brightest questions:

I'm planning to hardwood my second floor, as shown here. Highlighted area is where the hardwood goes (don't worry, it won't be pink like the highlight here):
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/2271/hardwoodplan.jpg
Joists are running left to right, so the direction of the planks would be vertical on this image. So, the questions are:

Where should I start? I assume against the nosing on the stairs, which would create a long row going from the hallway into the master, and into bedrooom 3 on the other end. All of the rows in the hall would then span either the entire length of the 2nd floor, or most of it.
At what point should I install the stair nosing? First or last? Because the nosings I've seen come with a groove end, but the nails go in the tongue end... so if I install it first, I would need to spline it to nail it in place and start the next row on the groove end. If I install it last, it will be tricky to have the rows from the other side of the hallway end up at the exact line for the nosing, and be perfectly straight. So what's the standard way of doing this?
If the rooms are not square, or not straight, how do I adjust for it? As you can see the first row after the nosing will be critical, as it will line up next to the master wall, and will be only a couple of rows off from the bed 3 wall.. so I am concerned about things going out of alignment here. If I chalk it out and the bed 3, hallway, and master bedroom walls are not parallel, what's the best way of compensating? Should I angle the whole chalk line to a line of best fit, and trim the underside lip of the stair nosing as needed to align it with the line? Or is there another way of accomplishing this?
What should I use for the transitions to the tiled floors in the main bath & ensuite bath? I assume "T" molding?


Thanks for your time, and all the good info you've provided in this thread.

molo

Start with the nosing (where it says oak railing) in line with the master bathroom entrance. Shoot the chalk line right from end to end of the house & see how square everything is. The nosing can be installed either way before or after. As long as you pre-measure to make it nice & square for the width of the nosing. Yes you can install the spline but very often the tongue & groove of wood & nosing does not match together. As long as it's glued with construction adhesive, it should hold very well. To align it you adjust the line left or right to make it as straight as possible on all the walls. Doesn't always work. Try to square it off to the most visible walls. There is various types of transition pieces depends on height difference. There are zero, lip reducers & T-molds so whatever works best for you.

[molo]

Thanks, I should be taking this on next week. I hope the builder kept those walls straight, it would save me a lot of work...

[patrob]

Thanks, I should be taking this on next week. I hope the builder kept those walls straight, it would save me a lot of work...

Good luck :) Post some pics once you're done.

[freecouponsforcanadians]

Was wondering if anyone knew where I could get the best deal on hardwood...I am looking for a specific type: Vintage Red Oak Estate (cocoa)

[patrob]

Was wondering if anyone knew where I could get the best deal on hardwood...I am looking for a specific type: Vintage Red Oak Estate (cocoa)

Check on Vintage website for dealer near you, everybody will have diff. pricing.

[nino]

I wanted to get your opinion. I am replacing the baseboards, and there are two sections which I didn't know what to do. The carpenter suggested to create a "jog" for the shoe moulding that makes up for the difference in height from the nosing to the hardwood. The hardwood is below the nosing, making the nosing slightly higher. The second section is a wall with a bow / bay type window. The wall is curved but not smooth, so instead of bending the baseboard, it was cut up in sections. Do you think it should be bent around the wall? The wall itself is not totally curved but also in sections.

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/4958/imag0411b.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img826/6624/imag0410h.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img38/9338/imag0407e.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img254/8788/imag0406h.jpg

[patrob]

I wanted to get your opinion. I am replacing the baseboards, and there are two sections which I didn't know what to do. The carpenter suggested to create a "jog" for the shoe moulding that makes up for the difference in height from the nosing to the hardwood. The hardwood is below the nosing, making the nosing slightly higher. The second section is a wall with a bow / bay type window. The wall is curved but not smooth, so instead of bending the baseboard, it was cut up in sections. Do you think it should be bent around the wall? The wall itself is not totally curved but also in sections.

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/4958/imag0411b.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img826/6624/imag0410h.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img38/9338/imag0407e.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img254/8788/imag0406h.jpg
On the straight baseboard at the nosing it would look nicer with a mitred return then the doorstop would stop before the nosing. The height difference is pretty ok. The curve, not every baseboard is bendable. If you can't bend it to the shape of the wall it has to be done in sections. Fill it, sand it paint it, it will look nice.

[nino]

On the straight baseboard at the nosing it would look nicer with a mitred return then the doorstop would stop before the nosing. The height difference is pretty ok. The curve, not every baseboard is bendable. If you can't bend it to the shape of the wall it has to be done in sections. Fill it, sand it paint it, it will look nice.

The last picture, the baseboard continues to a door on the right. I won't be able to put a return before the nosing. Would it be better to raise the doorstop or lower it so it would either be filled on the left if it is raised or notched on the right if it is lowered?

Here are two pics...

http://imageshack.us/a/img715/3411/imag0417a.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/1503/imag0415y.jpg

[patrob]

The last picture, the baseboard continues to a door on the right. I won't be able to put a return before the nosing. Would it be better to raise the doorstop or lower it so it would either be filled on the left if it is raised or notched on the right if it is lowered?

Why can't you take the baseboard off & do a mitred return? On the pic the baseboard does not even look beveled (it looks like straight cut). Otherwise notch the doorstop.

[nino]

Why can't you take the baseboard off & do a mitred return? On the pic the baseboard does not even look beveled (it looks like straight cut). Otherwise notch the doorstop.

Sorry Pat, I just posted some photos so you can see what happens past the nosing on both sides. This in on the second floor, where the stairs turn 90 degrees, it creates a small landing.

http://imageshack.us/a/img715/3411/imag0417a.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/1503/imag0415y.jpg

[jjj112]

Pat. What are the price for Mirage engineered Red Oak Graphite 3 1/4" and 5" in the GTA going for ? Thanks

[firecow]

Hey Patrob,

I've checked out a few more places and the topic of titanium finished vs. aluminum oxide has come up. I'm told that titanium finish (only available with Lauzon) is more "flexible" meaning that when something is dropped on the floor, the finish bends with it and the resulting dent doesn't have a white mark in it. Aluminum oxide (available with Mirage and Preverco) on the other hand will have a white mark where the dent is. Is this all just marketing, or is there truth behind this? I'm curious because I have a 15lb dog who's nails can get long some times.

Also, what gives a more modern and contemporary look (wide planks [4.5",5"] or narrow planks [3"]). I'm getting conflicting answers everywhere.

thanks!

Jason

[patrob]

Sorry Pat, I just posted some photos so you can see what happens past the nosing on both sides. This in on the second floor, where the stairs turn 90 degrees, it creates a small landing.

http://imageshack.us/a/img715/3411/imag0417a.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img203/1503/imag0415y.jpg

On the end where the baseboard is touching the casing it's OK. But the open side should be returned or at least a bevel.

[patrob]

Pat. What are the price for Mirage engineered Red Oak Graphite 3 1/4" and 5" in the GTA going for ? Thanks

The 3 1/4" is around $6.50 sq. ft.

[patrob]

Hey Patrob,

I've checked out a few more places and the topic of titanium finished vs. aluminum oxide has come up. I'm told that titanium finish (only available with Lauzon) is more "flexible" meaning that when something is dropped on the floor, the finish bends with it and the resulting dent doesn't have a white mark in it. Aluminum oxide (available with Mirage and Preverco) on the other hand will have a white mark where the dent is. Is this all just marketing, or is there truth behind this? I'm curious because I have a 15lb dog who's nails can get long some times.

Also, what gives a more modern and contemporary look (wide planks [4.5",5"] or narrow planks [3"]). I'm getting conflicting answers everywhere.

thanks!

Jason
It's pretty much marketing, you will also get a white mark on Lauzon. Def. wide planks give a more modern look. 5" is a very popular size but try to go with engineered in this width.

[bimmer318ti]

Hi Patrob,

Great info and thanks for your contribution to this thread
.
After looking at many samples I decided what I want, but I have no clue which the best manufacture is and what is considered the “best deal” so to speak
.
I will require approx 720 sqf (5% room for error), of espresso (color), brushed wire (style), engineered hardwood floor. I seen made in China stuff for $2.99 and made in Canada for about $4.99.

Any manufactures you would recommend? Any stores (perhaps near Mississauga) that you would recommend?

[CraigLee]

I am looking at Mercier Select and Better Red Oak in the Java colour. I got a quote from one large dealer for $3.99 and as this was the first store I had gone into I went to another store later that week that is highly rated on Homestars and located near the first store (Steeles Ave in North York). Their price was over a dollar more for the same product and I guess the sales person could tell that I was a bit surprised at the price and proceeded to ask me if I had gotten another price. I mentioned the other price without saying the store name and she guessed the store and said they aren't selling the same product and that the buy second quality wood from Mercier that is made specifically for them. I told her the price I had been quoted was for select and better and she said that this is impossible as it is below cost etc.

I wasn't sure whether this was a case of one retailer slagging another that they couldn't compete with or if there is any truth to what she said. I guess she was successful in planting doubt in me whether or not it is true.

I would think that a large company like Mercier wouldn't allow a retailer to sell second quality wood as select and better.

Any thoughts? Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone!

[craig187]

I am after a dark stain and I am aware that with a darker stain plank width is less obvious. The builder is offering for $4.2k an upgrade from 2.5" MIrage oak to 5" mirage engineered for a 970 sq ft space. Am I million miles wrong or is this quite a good price?

[B Prime]

Any opinions on this?

http://www.menards.com/main/flooring/hardwood-flooring/hardwood-flooring/prefinished-superfast-woodbridge-oak-solid-hardwood-flooring-3-4-x-3-1-4/p-1497751.htm

My wife and I are looking at getting this hardwood due to the long warranty, scratch resistant and ease of install.

[aubgray]

house built in 85. has narrow 2 1/4 (ish) width hardwood. need to refinish/replace a few strips. is this width of hardwood even made anymore? don't really want to replace entire main floor if i don't have to. Thanks in advance

[Capt.]

I am looking at Mercier Select and Better Red Oak in the Java colour. I got a quote from one large dealer for $3.99 and as this was the first store I had gone into I went to another store later that week that is highly rated on Homestars and located near the first store (Steeles Ave in North York). Their price was over a dollar more for the same product and I guess the sales person could tell that I was a bit surprised at the price and proceeded to ask me if I had gotten another price. I mentioned the other price without saying the store name and she guessed the store and said they aren't selling the same product and that the buy second quality wood from Mercier that is made specifically for them. I told her the price I had been quoted was for select and better and she said that this is impossible as it is below cost etc.


That' an interesting story and to be honest I think there's some truth to it. I believe I bought from the cheaper store you mentioned a couple weeks ago (same price) and have been installing it in my master bedroom over the past 4 days. There are a few things that have aroused my suspicions. First, the Mercier site says "Select and Better" but the actual boxes from the cheaper store say "Select Plus". Second, there are some boards that have knots or very dark to black colouration. Overall it's not too bad because I've been using the reject boards in the closet. The majority have been very nice boards. The third thing that made me suspicious is the pamphlets handed out at the store say Mercier 35 year warranty but the ones included in the boxes are basically the same pamphlet but only 25 year warranty.

Overall we're still very happy. The wood is almost an exact match to our existing hallway hardwood. I'll try to post some pictures in the next few days.

AUBGRAY, you can definitely buy 2 1/4" boards but keep in mind they may look newer/different than the older ones. Try to take an existing board with you to the store or bring samples home to compare.

[CraigLee]

Thats interesting Capt. This other vendor said that she has seen photos of skids at the Mercier factory that specify that the wood is for this vendor.
Another vendor I spoke with said she could give me a good price on Selected grade. She said in the Java colour I wouldnt be able to tell much difference. What colour did you get?

Patrob - if the price was around the same would you go for Mercier or Wickham? I do like that Mercier comes in a Satin finish as I prefer that over the glossier look.

[jjj112]

I am after a dark stain and I am aware that with a darker stain plank width is less obvious. The builder is offering for $4.2k an upgrade from 2.5" MIrage oak to 5" mirage engineered for a 970 sq ft space. Am I million miles wrong or is this quite a good price?

I got a quote for Mirage engineered Red Oak Graphite 5" for $7.30

[Capt.]

We went with the Honey colour (red oak) and we're really impressed with how well it matches our existing floor.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

Great info and thanks for your contribution to this thread
.
After looking at many samples I decided what I want, but I have no clue which the best manufacture is and what is considered the “best deal” so to speak
.
I will require approx 720 sqf (5% room for error), of espresso (color), brushed wire (style), engineered hardwood floor. I seen made in China stuff for $2.99 and made in Canada for about $4.99.

Any manufactures you would recommend? Any stores (perhaps near Mississauga) that you would recommend?

There is not that much choice in wirebrush engineered. There is really no brand I can recommend, I rather pick a Canadian product over others. You have to be careful with engineered especially if it's multiply based. Who do you turn to if there are any warranty problems if it's made in China?

[patrob]

I am looking at Mercier Select and Better Red Oak in the Java colour. I got a quote from one large dealer for $3.99 and as this was the first store I had gone into I went to another store later that week that is highly rated on Homestars and located near the first store (Steeles Ave in North York). Their price was over a dollar more for the same product and I guess the sales person could tell that I was a bit surprised at the price and proceeded to ask me if I had gotten another price. I mentioned the other price without saying the store name and she guessed the store and said they aren't selling the same product and that the buy second quality wood from Mercier that is made specifically for them. I told her the price I had been quoted was for select and better and she said that this is impossible as it is below cost etc.

I wasn't sure whether this was a case of one retailer slagging another that they couldn't compete with or if there is any truth to what she said. I guess she was successful in planting doubt in me whether or not it is true.

I would think that a large company like Mercier wouldn't allow a retailer to sell second quality wood as select and better.

Any thoughts? Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone!
Yes there is another product selling under Select Plus (from what I remember) so yes it's true what the other store told you. That grade was mainly designed for builders. I have never seen Mercier Select & Better for $3.99 sq. ft.!

[patrob]

I am after a dark stain and I am aware that with a darker stain plank width is less obvious. The builder is offering for $4.2k an upgrade from 2.5" MIrage oak to 5" mirage engineered for a 970 sq ft space. Am I million miles wrong or is this quite a good price?

It's a pretty good upgrade price from the builder.

[patrob]

Any opinions on this?

http://www.menards.com/main/flooring/hardwood-flooring/hardwood-flooring/prefinished-superfast-woodbridge-oak-solid-hardwood-flooring-3-4-x-3-1-4/p-1497751.htm

My wife and I are looking at getting this hardwood due to the long warranty, scratch resistant and ease of install.

Might be easy to install because it's click but I can assure you it's not scratch resistant! There is no wood on the market that's scratch resistant & the "long" warranty is just marketing ;) And read the fine print what is part of the warranty, def. not dents & scratches!

[patrob]

house built in 85. has narrow 2 1/4 (ish) width hardwood. need to refinish/replace a few strips. is this width of hardwood even made anymore? don't really want to replace entire main floor if i don't have to. Thanks in advance

There is plenty of 2 1/4" hardwood available in diff. species. In the worst case, if it's an odd width, you can have the planks cut to width from a wider plank.

[patrob]

Patrob - if the price was around the same would you go for Mercier or Wickham? I do like that Mercier comes in a Satin finish as I prefer that over the glossier look.
Both are very similar products so go with the one you like better.

[steveooo]

Searching for hardwood stinks! So I figgure I will pick the minds of you fine folks.I am in the market for about 1500 sg. ft.of maple (4"-5") Hardwood or engineered.Anyone see any spectacular deals out there? If not could you suggest some high volume stores that will wheel and deal with me .Its all about the price at this point. Thanks a lot!!

[CraigLee]

Thanks Patrob. I went back to the first store yesterday and got some clarification. The salesperson said Select and Better is available at $4.99 (which is more in line with what the second store was charging) and the Select Plus which they stock is $4.40 now but is 3.25 inch and if we want the wider width then they have to order it and the price is a little higher.

They are also selling 4.25 in select and better (saw it on the actual boxes) of Wickham Oak for $3.95 in a range of stains. The sales person was pushing the Mercier saying that it was hands down better quality and that if I really want the best stuff then I would go for the Mercier etc. He was talking me away from the Wickham citing the more visible bevel and grain. He was the kind of guy that started his sentences with "Bro". I found the Wickham at $3.95 appealing as it is select and better and I prefer the wider width. I might contact Wickham to see if there are other retailers in the GTA as when you go on the site as someone mentioned earlier in the thread the 'find a dealer' function doesn't work properly. It just comes up with a retailer in Quebec.

[bimmer318ti]

There is not that much choice in wirebrush engineered. There is really no brand I can recommend, I rather pick a Canadian product over others. You have to be careful with engineered especially if it's multiply based. Who do you turn to if there are any warranty problems if it's made in China?

You are right. The only Canadian company I found was Kentwood and best price I got is $5.10 a square foot for their Brushed Oak Espresso part of their Elements series (https://kentwoodfloors.com/ca/products/brushed-oak-espresso). The sales rep at Aspen Wood Floors said that they are really good, but I do not see much about them online.

Any feedback for this?

[patrob]

Searching for hardwood stinks! So I figgure I will pick the minds of you fine folks.I am in the market for about 1500 sg. ft.of maple (4"-5") Hardwood or engineered.Anyone see any spectacular deals out there? If not could you suggest some high volume stores that will wheel and deal with me .Its all about the price at this point. Thanks a lot!!
You just have to keep looking, there is no one store that offers best prices.

[Rholden1]

Wow after reading all of that you have created a monster. We have finally come to the decision to do a Vintage 4” hand sawn Hickory Winchester Pearl (torn between scraped and not)

Firstly I would like to commend you on your commitment to this forum and this posting it is hard to find consistent and intelligent information on the web.

I live in Georgetown and have been from Milton to the illustrious BH and everything south of that in my search for wood. I enjoy the pictures that you provide and am waiting for your site to go back up. I wish there were more pictures from the manufactures of actual installed floors. I am wondering if you have any installation pictures of this floor? Also I was told that the hand scraped comes in a Character but going to a non scraped will allow you to have a select grade is this correct?

I have some install questions but I will post them later to keep the Q&A cleaner.

[patrob]

Thanks Patrob. I went back to the first store yesterday and got some clarification. The salesperson said Select and Better is available at $4.99 (which is more in line with what the second store was charging) and the Select Plus which they stock is $4.40 now but is 3.25 inch and if we want the wider width then they have to order it and the price is a little higher.

They are also selling 4.25 in select and better (saw it on the actual boxes) of Wickham Oak for $3.95 in a range of stains. The sales person was pushing the Mercier saying that it was hands down better quality and that if I really want the best stuff then I would go for the Mercier etc. He was talking me away from the Wickham citing the more visible bevel and grain. He was the kind of guy that started his sentences with "Bro". I found the Wickham at $3.95 appealing as it is select and better and I prefer the wider width. I might contact Wickham to see if there are other retailers in the GTA as when you go on the site as someone mentioned earlier in the thread the 'find a dealer' function doesn't work properly. It just comes up with a retailer in Quebec.
In this case I think I would go with Wickham. We installed it in the past and it was good.

[patrob]

You are right. The only Canadian company I found was Kentwood and best price I got is $5.10 a square foot for their Brushed Oak Espresso part of their Elements series (https://kentwoodfloors.com/ca/products/brushed-oak-espresso). The sales rep at Aspen Wood Floors said that they are really good, but I do not see much about them online.

Any feedback for this?
Can't give you much feedback as we rarely install Kentwood products. Their eng. is multiply based less than 1/2" with very thin veneer and max lenghts of 48". You will not get much better than that for $5 sq. ft.

[rodney61]

Hi Patrob
Will be do engineered flooring for my condo-about 800 square feet. What is your opinion of Jatoba vs Maple? Toryly vs Vintage? Also my deseigner thinks it is better to get the engineered wood is its natual colour vs picking one with a stain on it-says stained boards when scratched will show the different colour underneatch? But this would really limit our choices.
Really liking maple for its hardness and liking the mid brown stains it comes in. Seems to have less colour varation from board to board than Jatoba has.
Thanks so much!

[B Prime]

Might be easy to install because it's click but I can assure you it's not scratch resistant! There is no wood on the market that's scratch resistant & the "long" warranty is just marketing ;) And read the fine print what is part of the warranty, def. not dents & scratches!

Thanks patrob

Can you recommend a good hardwood that is light and will be able to survive from a 2 year old w/ a hot wheels obession.

We are thinking of a maple now because it is harder and in our old house it seemed to hide the scratches/dents better as well.

Any brands you would recommend?

[rodney61]

Hi Patrob
I am about to put engineered float hardwood in my condo. Liking the hardnesss of maple. There are many stains available that I like. However, my deseigner says it is better to just go with the natural wood colour. He feels that the stains are not a good idea since any scratches to the surface of the stain will show the unstained wood surface below. What do you think?
Thanks

[patrob]

Wow after reading all of that you have created a monster. We have finally come to the decision to do a Vintage 4” hand sawn Hickory Winchester Pearl (torn between scraped and not)

Firstly I would like to commend you on your commitment to this forum and this posting it is hard to find consistent and intelligent information on the web.

I live in Georgetown and have been from Milton to the illustrious BH and everything south of that in my search for wood. I enjoy the pictures that you provide and am waiting for your site to go back up. I wish there were more pictures from the manufactures of actual installed floors. I am wondering if you have any installation pictures of this floor? Also I was told that the hand scraped comes in a Character but going to a non scraped will allow you to have a select grade is this correct?

I have some install questions but I will post them later to keep the Q&A cleaner.
Thanks :D. You can also vote and rate this thread 5 stars if you find it helpful ;)

I do have some pics, pm me your email and I can send you some.
Yes it's correct about the grade, hand scraped only comes in character grade.

[patrob]

Thanks patrob

Can you recommend a good hardwood that is light and will be able to survive from a 2 year old w/ a hot wheels obession.

We are thinking of a maple now because it is harder and in our old house it seemed to hide the scratches/dents better as well.

Any brands you would recommend?
I don't recommend maple! Even though it's harder than oak, it has a very smooth finish and will show damages much more than grainy oak! Light coloured hardwood will show damages less but against the light you will still see it. If you are worried about damage, laminate is the best option or live with the possibility of dents and scratches. You can always look for distressed or wirebrush finish hardwood which will be more forgiving.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob
Will be do engineered flooring for my condo-about 800 square feet. What is your opinion of Jatoba vs Maple? Toryly vs Vintage? Also my deseigner thinks it is better to get the engineered wood is its natual colour vs picking one with a stain on it-says stained boards when scratched will show the different colour underneatch? But this would really limit our choices.
Really liking maple for its hardness and liking the mid brown stains it comes in. Seems to have less colour varation from board to board than Jatoba has.
Thanks so much!


Hi Patrob
I am about to put engineered float hardwood in my condo. Liking the hardnesss of maple. There are many stains available that I like. However, my deseigner says it is better to just go with the natural wood colour. He feels that the stains are not a good idea since any scratches to the surface of the stain will show the unstained wood surface below. What do you think?
Thanks

In condos you can only go with engineered wood! If you like stained wood go with it since you will Iive there not the designer ;). I would not be worrying about scratches at this point. Torlys is pretty much best for click flooring, Vintage is more of a higher end product. Depends also what product you are comparing to.

[watrdogg]

What would be your top 5 ranking for hardwood brands?

[rodney61]

Patrob, thanks so much! Especially for referral to Torly's. Do you think that maple stained a dark brown will show damage atches etc than maple in its natural colour (which I know you do not recommend for that reason as in your above posting).

[patrob]

What would be your top 5 ranking for hardwood brands?

Are you trying to get me in trouble :D ;)

[patrob]

Patrob, thanks so much! Especially for referral to Torly's. Do you think that maple stained a dark brown will show damage atches etc than maple in its natural colour (which I know you do not recommend for that reason as in your above posting).

Scratches & dents are more visible on darker colours especially on such smooth surface as maple. It will be less visible on natural.

[watrdogg]

Are you trying to get me in trouble :D ;)

I would never try to get you in trouble! I have looked at mirage and vintage. What else would be comparable to those two that I could look at?

[CraigLee]

Are you trying to get me in trouble :D ;)

With who? Vintage? Lol. I was looking forward to this response.

[patrob]

I would never try to get you in trouble! I have looked at mirage and vintage. What else would be comparable to those two that I could look at?
I was just joking ;)
Depends what you're looking for and how much money you want to spend.
You can also look at Superior, Mercier, Wickham.


With who? Vintage? Lol. I was looking forward to this response.

:lol:

[steveooo]

The learning never ends on this thread.Thanks Patrob! We were going to go with a natural maple but after reading the past couple of pages and thinking ,I think its the wrong choice given our lifestyle .
We have a 130 year old house with cherry /walnut stained trim.(8" base 4.5" case).
The existing floors are 6" honey pine .I have never really liked the combination and they are toast.
Any recomendations for colour ,texture and width?

[Gcocks]

I was just joking ;)
Depends what you're looking for and how much money you want to spend.
You can also look at Superior, Mercier, Wickham.



:lol:

Hi Patrob, I have sent you a PM.

[B Prime]

Patrob

What would be your opinion on Hickory and Great Lakes Flooring company (if you know)?

Looking at this:

http://menards.com/main/flooring/hardwood-flooring/hardwood-flooring/prefinished-hickory-solid-hardwood-flooring-3-4-x-3/p-1421449.htm

What's your thoughts?

[Sarvin]

I need hardwood floors and I want to know where to get them the cheapest possible. The project is large and I can't afford expensive looking since I've got other things to take care of as well. I am in Thornhill but am willing to travel anywhere to get them cheap.

Thanks!

[CraigLee]

I have a friend who who bought solid maple from Lumber Liquidators for $2.99 and it is pretty poor quality. I wouldn't bother using it. There are gaps between the boards and the wood seems pretty dried out. I think you could get decent stuff in the $4 range but I wouldn't go cheaper than that.


I need hardwood floors and I want to know where to get them the cheapest possible. The project is large and I can't afford expensive looking since I've got other things to take care of as well. I am in Thornhill but am willing to travel anywhere to get them cheap.

Thanks!

[aximrocks]

I like to change the existing carpet covered stairs and upstairs hallway into hardwood, also replace ~600 sq ft of carpet in the basement with laminate flooring. I want to know what the general ballpark cost of this would be (including removal of carpet and materials). here is a picture of the stairs. can anyone recommend a good installer in Mississauga?

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/6438/20130113img5069.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/20130113img5069.jpg/)

[patrob]

The learning never ends on this thread.Thanks Patrob! We were going to go with a natural maple but after reading the past couple of pages and thinking ,I think its the wrong choice given our lifestyle .
We have a 130 year old house with cherry /walnut stained trim.(8" base 4.5" case).
The existing floors are 6" honey pine .I have never really liked the combination and they are toast.
Any recomendations for colour ,texture and width?
Unless you paint all trim white or similar, natural might be too light. I would go with a more med. brown colour and oak since it's more forgiving than maple. You can go with a wire brush or scraped oak if you want that more rustic look. Width is really up to you but wider does look great and will be close to what you have now.

[patrob]

Patrob

What would be your opinion on Hickory and Great Lakes Flooring company (if you know)?

Looking at this:

http://menards.com/main/flooring/hardwood-flooring/hardwood-flooring/prefinished-hickory-solid-hardwood-flooring-3-4-x-3/p-1421449.htm

What's your thoughts?
Hickory is good and if you like the rustic look, go for it. It's a very specific look so not everybody will like it in case you are planning to sell the house anytime soon.

[patrob]

I need hardwood floors and I want to know where to get them the cheapest possible. The project is large and I can't afford expensive looking since I've got other things to take care of as well. I am in Thornhill but am willing to travel anywhere to get them cheap.

Thanks!

Try Home Depot, they have the $2.99 special quite often but you get what you pay for ;)

[patrob]

I like to change the existing carpet covered stairs and upstairs hallway into hardwood, also replace ~600 sq ft of carpet in the basement with laminate flooring. I want to know what the general ballpark cost of this would be (including removal of carpet and materials). here is a picture of the stairs. can anyone recommend a good installer in Mississauga?

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/6438/20130113img5069.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/812/20130113img5069.jpg/)
Looks like you will need all new nosings which will add extra cost. Stairs tend to be very expensive so best to contact a stair guy for a quote and they can also take care of your hardwood floors in the hallway. The basement laminate you can try to do yourself to save some $ and put that saving towards the stairs.

[B Prime]

First thanks for all the info Patrob

Second what would you recommend Staples or cleats?

I will be installing 3/4 Hickory on plywood with a Roberts Premium Felt Underlay (http://www.amazon.com/Roberts-70-190-Super-Premium-Underlayment/dp/B0049VIQCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358574844&sr=8-1&keywords=felt+underlayment). I have read many different forums/sites but it appears to always be 50/50. What would you recommend?

Thanks

[patrob]

First thanks for all the info Patrob

Second what would you recommend Staples or cleats?

I will be installing 3/4 Hickory on plywood with a Roberts Premium Felt Underlay (http://www.amazon.com/Roberts-70-190-Super-Premium-Underlayment/dp/B0049VIQCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1358574844&sr=8-1&keywords=felt+underlayment). I have read many different forums/sites but it appears to always be 50/50. What would you recommend?

Thanks
For nail down you are not supposed to use soft underlays! Use wax underlay or felt paper. For smooth hickory I would use cleats but the best way is to check what the manufacturer recommends.

[gdanit]

Looking to install hardwood in the dining/living room of my house. It's a fairly small job (only about 260 sqft.)
My house has quite poor moisture control (I've had the room humidifier running 24/7 just to keep it at 30%.)

And so I'm torn between spending the money on Vintage 5" x 3/4" Solid-Sawn Hickory or going cheaper with something like Columbia 3.5" x 3/4" Solid Hickory.

I've been reading that Hickory is less stable than some other woods which makes me think the Solid-Sawn would perform better. But then I think about how long I'm going to stay in my current house (probably 5 years) and think the extra cost probably won't payoff in resale.

Any opinions?
Also, I haven't seen any discussion of Columbia on this forum, anyone have experience?
And of course, what's a good price for these products? I've found the Vintage 5" Solid-Sawn Hickory for $7.75 and the Columbia Solid Hickory for $4.99 in the Kitchener-Waterloo Region. Is that about normal going price?


-Dan

[patrob]

Looking to install hardwood in the dining/living room of my house. It's a fairly small job (only about 260 sqft.)
My house has quite poor moisture control (I've had the room humidifier running 24/7 just to keep it at 30%.)

And so I'm torn between spending the money on Vintage 5" x 3/4" Solid-Sawn Hickory or going cheaper with something like Columbia 3.5" x 3/4" Solid Hickory.

I've been reading that Hickory is less stable than some other woods which makes me think the Solid-Sawn would perform better. But then I think about how long I'm going to stay in my current house (probably 5 years) and think the extra cost probably won't payoff in resale.

Any opinions?
Also, I haven't seen any discussion of Columbia on this forum, anyone have experience?
And of course, what's a good price for these products? I've found the Vintage 5" Solid-Sawn Hickory for $7.75 and the Columbia Solid Hickory for $4.99 in the Kitchener-Waterloo Region. Is that about normal going price?


-Dan
Never heard of Columbia hardwood! Since you only have 260 sq. ft. I would just spend the $ & get the better quality Solid Sawn especially if you are having issues with keeping humidity levels. Maybe look into a bigger humidifier or central. I would choose oak just because we had less problems with it. Red/White Oak is also available in Solid Sawn. In GTA you might find this wood for a little less but since you have a small amount & are in Waterloo, probably not too many dealers to choose from.

[yoshirocks702]

I'm looking to buy about 440 sq.ft of hardwood for the house. I got a quote for Mercier solid maple 3-1/4" x 3/4" looks like Arabica stain in semi gloss or very similar, not sure which grade exactly looks like select? for $4/sq. ft in the GTA.
Can anyone comment on this price and how the quality of Mercier, thanks to this great thread I know Vintage and Mirage are the top brands but I don't need the best of the best but still would like a good quality hardwood. thanks. Joe

[Gotoff]

I was surprised that there was only 500sqft of space to cover for the whole lower level, in a 2500 sqft home

Am i right in saying that this project should only take about $2500-3000 to complete using someone qualified

There's currently carpet covering the whole lowerlevel ( except foyer / kitchen )

I need to put hardwood in the living room / dining room / family room / and a small hallway connecting the dining room with the family room.

Thank you!

[patrob]

I'm looking to buy about 440 sq.ft of hardwood for the house. I got a quote for Mercier solid maple 3-1/4" x 3/4" looks like Arabica stain in semi gloss or very similar, not sure which grade exactly looks like select? for $4/sq. ft in the GTA.
Can anyone comment on this price and how the quality of Mercier, thanks to this great thread I know Vintage and Mirage are the top brands but I don't need the best of the best but still would like a good quality hardwood. thanks. Joe

Mercier was recently discussed on page 411/412, so that might be helpful. You can also look at Wickham.

[patrob]

I was surprised that there was only 500sqft of space to cover for the whole lower level, in a 2500 sqft home

Am i right in saying that this project should only take about $2500-3000 to complete using someone qualified

There's currently carpet covering the whole lowerlevel ( except foyer / kitchen )

I need to put hardwood in the living room / dining room / family room / and a small hallway connecting the dining room with the family room.

Thank you!

That is surprising, unless you have lots of tiles on the main floor but looks like you don't. Do you have a floorplan of the house?
The $2,500-$3,000 will cover your materials if you are doing the removal/prep/installation yourself.

[toyopl]

What do you recommend to cover the floors with when moving in to a new home ?
With friends helping to move, there's always a chance of scratching the floors, someone will not take shoes off, or slide a piece of furniture over the floor.
As happy as I am to move to a new home, I'm already thinking of the possible damage to the floors :)

[patrob]

What do you recommend to cover the floors with when moving in to a new home ?
With friends helping to move, there's always a chance of scratching the floors, someone will not take shoes off, or slide a piece of furniture over the floor.
As happy as I am to move to a new home, I'm already thinking of the possible damage to the floors :)
Cover the floor with cardboard or heavy paper. Do not drag anything on the hardwood!

Good luck with the move :)

[cnuttyc]

Has anyone gotten Lauzon flooring in Toronto recently? Where did you get it from and how was the experience?

[toyopl]

Where can I go to see the all the stains of Mirage in person ?
Located in Milton so I'm guessing Mississauga would be preferred.

[patrob]

Where can I go to see the all the stains of Mirage in person ?
Located in Milton so I'm guessing Mississauga would be preferred.

You can find Mirage dealers through their website.

[freeonboard]

I have some cedar floors that are at least 70 years old. tongue and groove. 3.5 inches wide/20ft long. they are bowed and have gaps even in the summer. I see samples of wood flooring in home depot and it seems so much nicer. I had to sand them across the grain to get inside the bow. Why do people say old wood floors are superior? what should i fill the gaps with? I used sawdust and glue in the summer but some of the cracks opened more in winter. I also have some shorter thinner stuff which doesnt have gaps for some reason. I also found a lot of wood flooring under the house that has been painted and then there is a layer of 1934 newspaper over it. I guess that was from the old flooring . even if this was old growth . i dont see what is so great about it.

My flooring is unstained.

[CraigLee]

I bought my hardwood the other day (finally). I got Wickham red oak select and better 4.25 in. Walnut stain. Paid $3.80 plus tax and delivery. After some shopping around this seemed to be the best price.

I am getting a new furnace installed next week. Do you recommend I get a humidifier installed?

[Ziggy007]

Just looking for some advice here.

Bought a house a year and a half ago. There is some old strip hardwood floors (about 30-40 years I think) in place that in some parts (corners, bedrooms) is actually very good, but in high traffic areas it is extremely beat up and damaged. The total area of the hardwood is about 800-900 sq ft which covers a small living room, dining room, hallway, two spare bedrooms and the master. It is a backsplit house so there are actually two steps as well on the "stairs"

Originally I had planned to refinish to wood, but looking into the cost to rent the sander, buy the stain, sealer, plus time and effort to do it (constantly waiting for coats to dry before you can do the next step) that I might just be better off getting brand new hardwood and installing that. On top of all that the strip hardwood seems fairly thin in terms of depth so I am worried with a drum sander I might just rip right through it if I am not extremely careful.

Any thoughts on the cost of refinishing vs buying new?

[freeonboard]

Just looking for some advice here.

Bought a house a year and a half ago. There is some old strip hardwood floors (about 30-40 years I think) in place that in some parts (corners, bedrooms) is actually very good, but in high traffic areas it is extremely beat up and damaged. The total area of the hardwood is about 800-900 sq ft which covers a small living room, dining room, hallway, two spare bedrooms and the master. It is a backsplit house so there are actually two steps as well on the "stairs"

Originally I had planned to refinish to wood, but looking into the cost to rent the sander, buy the stain, sealer, plus time and effort to do it (constantly waiting for coats to dry before you can do the next step) that I might just be better off getting brand new hardwood and installing that. On top of all that the strip hardwood seems fairly thin in terms of depth so I am worried with a drum sander I might just rip right through it if I am not extremely careful.

Any thoughts on the cost of refinishing vs buying new?

The cost doesnt have to be very much. I got my varathane for $10/gallon and you can do all the sanding in one day. I only did it once but I dont see how anyone
can use a a drum sander and get a nice smooth look like new hardwood floor. I assume you also have gaps between the boards.

[patrob]

I have some cedar floors that are at least 70 years old. tongue and groove. 3.5 inches wide/20ft long. they are bowed and have gaps even in the summer. I see samples of wood flooring in home depot and it seems so much nicer. I had to sand them across the grain to get inside the bow. Why do people say old wood floors are superior? what should i fill the gaps with? I used sawdust and glue in the summer but some of the cracks opened more in winter. I also have some shorter thinner stuff which doesnt have gaps for some reason. I also found a lot of wood flooring under the house that has been painted and then there is a layer of 1934 newspaper over it. I guess that was from the old flooring . even if this was old growth . i dont see what is so great about it.

My flooring is unstained.

More likely it's pine not cedar. Cedar has never been used as flooring in houses. I wouldn't be surprised if your floors are actual sub-floors at the same time. Very common for that age of the house. If you have enough "meat" you can have them refinished. But there is pretty much nothing you can do about the gaps. Whatever you fill it with, will eventually fall out. Wouldn't really waste $ on refinishing it but rather think about new flooring.

[patrob]

I bought my hardwood the other day (finally). I got Wickham red oak select and better 4.25 in. Walnut stain. Paid $3.80 plus tax and delivery. After some shopping around this seemed to be the best price.

I am getting a new furnace installed next week. Do you recommend I get a humidifier installed?
Yes, highly recommend it! Humidifier is not only for your floors but also great for your health.

[patrob]

Just looking for some advice here.

Bought a house a year and a half ago. There is some old strip hardwood floors (about 30-40 years I think) in place that in some parts (corners, bedrooms) is actually very good, but in high traffic areas it is extremely beat up and damaged. The total area of the hardwood is about 800-900 sq ft which covers a small living room, dining room, hallway, two spare bedrooms and the master. It is a backsplit house so there are actually two steps as well on the "stairs"

Originally I had planned to refinish to wood, but looking into the cost to rent the sander, buy the stain, sealer, plus time and effort to do it (constantly waiting for coats to dry before you can do the next step) that I might just be better off getting brand new hardwood and installing that. On top of all that the strip hardwood seems fairly thin in terms of depth so I am worried with a drum sander I might just rip right through it if I am not extremely careful.

Any thoughts on the cost of refinishing vs buying new?

Professional refinishing will cost between $2 - $4 sq. ft. It's not so simple if you have never done it before. New floors will cost you more than $4 sq. ft. plus removal of existing, fixing the sub floor and installation. Refinishing will be cheaper if can be done.

[Ziggy007]

Professional refinishing will cost between $2 - $4 sq. ft. It's not so simple if you have never done it before. New floors will cost you more than $4 sq. ft. plus removal of existing, fixing the sub floor and installation. Refinishing will be cheaper if can be done.

Well my dad has refinished many floors before so I have his help on the matter, he is a fairly handy person so that part isn't too tough.

When it comes to the cost of refinishing I figure between renting the sander, sand paper, cleanup, stain, finishing coats, plus all the time in between waiting for it to dry before I can do another coat etc that I might be better off just putting in brand new hardwood. The cost wouldn't be obscenely higher (at $4/sq. ft it would cost 2500-3600 to do the house). With that can of thin strip wood, how much more life do you really get out of refinishing it?

[patrob]

Ep
Well my dad has refinished many floors before so I have his help on the matter, he is a fairly handy person so that part isn't too tough.

When it comes to the cost of refinishing I figure between renting the sander, sand paper, cleanup, stain, finishing coats, plus all the time in between waiting for it to dry before I can do another coat etc that I might be better off just putting in brand new hardwood. The cost wouldn't be obscenely higher (at $4/sq. ft it would cost 2500-3600 to do the house). With that can of thin strip wood, how much more life do you really get out of refinishing it?

If you have time and budget to remove existing floors, prep. and install new then yes it will def. be a lot better. If your dad refinished floors before, he should know how much life is left and durability depends on finishing product used. I personally prefer new since that's what we do :D

[vettefan]

Hi Patrob, I am looking to replace the carpet on my 2nd floor with hardwood 850 Sq,ft Red Oak. Had one installer come over and told me the sub floor is particle board and cannot install hardwood on top. Suggested 3/8 plywood over sub floor then install hardwood on top. Unfortunately baseboards and doors would have to be raised. I was thinking of removing the particle board and replacing with plywood. Would this result in the floor being higher? Would that be an expensive undertaking? I have seen on the web that the particle board is called underlayment. Does that mean there is plywood underneath? Could I not install on that plywood? He also suggested engineered hardwood as a floating floor in which case nothing would have to be changed. ie subfloor, baseboards, etc. The only thing I wouldn't like about that is that I heard the engineered will produce a hollow sound when you walk on it.Is that true? Can anything be done for that? Do you have any suggestions to save money and lots of work? Sorry for all the questions but I am totally confused. Thanks for all your help on this site.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob, I am looking to replace the carpet on my 2nd floor with hardwood 850 Sq,ft Red Oak. Had one installer come over and told me the sub floor is particle board and cannot install hardwood on top. Suggested 3/8 plywood over sub floor then install hardwood on top. Unfortunately baseboards and doors would have to be raised. I was thinking of removing the particle board and replacing with plywood. Would this result in the floor being higher? Would that be an expensive undertaking? I have seen on the web that the particle board is called underlayment. Does that mean there is plywood underneath? Could I not install on that plywood? He also suggested engineered hardwood as a floating floor in which case nothing would have to be changed. ie subfloor, baseboards, etc. The only thing I wouldn't like about that is that I heard the engineered will produce a hollow sound when you walk on it.Is that true? Can anything be done for that? Do you have any suggestions to save money and lots of work? Sorry for all the questions but I am totally confused. Thanks for all your help on this site.
Not a good idea to remove original subfloor and replace with plywood. It's not as simple as it seems and potential damage to ceilings below. If your current subfloor is at least 5/8" thick, you can still install hardwood over it just has to be nailed a lot more frequently.

Engineered wood is better because it's a lot more stable. Eng. can also be glued down which will most likely eliminate all your worries. Good engineered will not sound hollow unless he was referring to laminate.

[vettefan]

Further to my comments above, I just checked my unfinished basement and noticed that all the subfloors are particle board. This means that the hardwood floors the builder installed in 1998 are on particle board along with another floor that I had installed about 3 years ago. I have not had issues with any of these floors. The particle board appears to be 3/4 or 1 inch thick. Based on this thickness, do you think I would be ok to install my hardwood to the particle board on my 2nd floor?

[patrob]

Further to my comments above, I just checked my unfinished basement and noticed that all the subfloors are particle board. This means that the hardwood floors the builder installed in 1998 are on particle board along with another floor that I had installed about 3 years ago. I have not had issues with any of these floors. The particle board appears to be 3/4 or 1 inch thick. Based on this thickness, do you think I would be ok to install my hardwood to the particle board on my 2nd floor?
Yes you can install over it.

[MattJG]

New build, 250 SF living room, removing builder's carpet and pad.

Subfloor is 5/8" Georgia Pacific T&G OSB which was glued (PL400) and screwed down. Believe it to be 12" OC.

Plan is to re/re the carpet/pad this weekend and screw down the subfloor further, ensure every 6". This morning I quickly lifted a corner of the carpet and checked the moisture content of the exposed OSB, which was anywhere between 6-8%.
I am installing 3/4" satin finish hardwood in this room in a few days, laying a wax paper or like VB on the subfloor.

Question; Would I be alright with this scenario for install and likely sound, solid flooring for years to come? I know nothing can be guaranteed nor a warranty be in place without proper installation, however I have always heard mixed reviews on OSB subfloors for hardwood. I could do a 3/8" ply underlay, however I prefer not as I would then require a reducer 12' where the wood meets the kitchen tile, I would like to keep it seamless.

[Tbsguy]

Hey Patrob just wanted to say hello ! Haven't checked here for years. Can't believe you are still helping so many people. You helped me with lots of questions back on page 31 (Apr. 2008), when I was doing my project. Here you are still going at page 415. A big THANK YOU You are the best !

[bobbyg9]

Hi patrob, amazing thread!!!! Would you use cleat nailsn or staples for OSB subfloor and oak hardwood? Also wax paper sufficient?

Thanks

[Kitty999]

Hi Patrob, have read through many of your posts and have learned so much. Thank you! I'm newbie and would like to ask about Vintage solid sawn Maple estate Windsor. It was just installed in our new home by the builder and there is a lot of colour variance in the boards. I thought it would be more consistent in colour if we got the Estate. Can you comment?
Many Thanks:)

[patrob]

New build, 250 SF living room, removing builder's carpet and pad.

Subfloor is 5/8" Georgia Pacific T&G OSB which was glued (PL400) and screwed down. Believe it to be 12" OC.

Plan is to re/re the carpet/pad this weekend and screw down the subfloor further, ensure every 6". This morning I quickly lifted a corner of the carpet and checked the moisture content of the exposed OSB, which was anywhere between 6-8%.
I am installing 3/4" satin finish hardwood in this room in a few days, laying a wax paper or like VB on the subfloor.

Question; Would I be alright with this scenario for install and likely sound, solid flooring for years to come? I know nothing can be guaranteed nor a warranty be in place without proper installation, however I have always heard mixed reviews on OSB subfloors for hardwood. I could do a 3/8" ply underlay, however I prefer not as I would then require a reducer 12' where the wood meets the kitchen tile, I would like to keep it seamless.
You are OK installing over OSB. Just nail more frequently. Use wax paper only, no vapour barrier. Moisture level is OK and maintain your humidity levels.

[patrob]

Hey Patrob just wanted to say hello ! Haven't checked here for years. Can't believe you are still helping so many people. You helped me with lots of questions back on page 31 (Apr. 2008), when I was doing my project. Here you are still going at page 415. A big THANK YOU You are the best !

You're welcome! Yes, still going strong :D

[patrob]

Hi patrob, amazing thread!!!! Would you use cleat nailsn or staples for OSB subfloor and oak hardwood? Also wax paper sufficient?

Thanks
Thanks :) You can vote and rate this thread 5 stars if you find it helpful ;)

Wax paper perfectly fine and you can use both, just fasten more frequently.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob, have read through many of your posts and have learned so much. Thank you! I'm newbie and would like to ask about Vintage solid sawn Maple estate Windsor. It was just installed in our new home by the builder and there is a lot of colour variance in the boards. I thought it would be more consistent in colour if we got the Estate. Can you comment?
Many Thanks:)
What width and did you check if it's solid sawn? Estate grade should be pretty uniform but of course some variation will be visible especially on maple and medium colours. Post a pic if you have.

[MattJG]

You are OK installing over OSB. Just nail more frequently. Use wax paper only, no vapour barrier. Moisture level is OK and maintain your humidity levels.

Yes, we are currently installing the hardwood today with a wax paper underlay. I lifted the carpet, pulled all staples and rescrewed the OSB.

The problem I need to address next, as you stated, are my humidity levels. This new build has no air exchanger, just the higher CFM 2nd floor exhaust fan (crap).

My RH is only around the 32% mark and my GPP is similar. Need to get a humidifier installed very soon to prevent dry cupping.

Thanks for the reply.

[Kitty999]

Yes it's solid sawn 3 1/4". I don't think I'm allowed to post pictures on the site yet as I'm new, but will take some and try and post tomorrow. Thanks so much!

[patrob]

Yes it's solid sawn 3 1/4". I don't think I'm allowed to post pictures on the site yet as I'm new, but will take some and try and post tomorrow. Thanks so much!

You can host the pic on ImageShack and post the link to the pic.

[m2pphkg]

Hi Patrob,
Watching this thread is great help and you profound knowledge is appreciated.
I am planning my hardwood floor but not sure whether the Dubeau Royal Java will clash with the existing gun-stock oak stairs. Will do both upper and main floors. Thx.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,
Watching this thread is great help and you profound knowledge is appreciated.
I am planning my hardwood floor but not sure whether the Dubeau Royal Java will clash with the existing gun-stock oak stairs. Will do both upper and main floors. Thx.
Thank you! I hope you had a chance to vote for us ;)

Assuming the colour Java is dark, then yes it will clash. You will eventually have to change the stairs colour to match your new floors.

[m2pphkg]

Voted already and your thread is well worth it.

If I re-stain my stairs, what kind of paint remover would you recommend.

If I hire pros to help just couple of days, how much should I pay for, say 6 hours per day for 2 days?

[kyfe]

Great thread,

I have a house built in 1932 with oak strip hardwood currently that is in rough shape, I plan to replace the floor but have a tenant unit in the basement and was wondering about what I could put under the new floor to baffle the noise from the upper level.

is there any product/underlayment available to put between the hardwood and the board that you would recommend?

2nd for a DIY'r what is the easiest material to work with we are thinkin gof going with engineered and would like to stay away from laminate.

[RFWood]

Excellent thread you have here, I had an installer measure my main floor last week and he mentioned that my RH of 37% would not be a problem with almost any solid hardwood as long as I let the wood acclimate for a week or two maybe a bit more for exotics. I have read that the moisture content of the subfloor and the hardwood need to match. If that is true how do I find out the MC%? Last question - since my home's RH fluctuates from 37% in winter months up to approximately 55% (or maybe 60%) in summer months, is it advisable to wait for a time to install the floor when the RH is at a median, say 47% or am I imagining a problem that probably won't exist?
Randy in Regina

[patrob]

Voted already and your thread is well worth it.

If I re-stain my stairs, what kind of paint remover would you recommend.

If I hire pros to help just couple of days, how much should I pay for, say 6 hours per day for 2 days?
Thank you for voting, really appreciate it :)

Get paint & varnish remover something gel like. Every contractor will have diff. prices, so I can't really say what you should pay.

[patrob]

Great thread,

I have a house built in 1932 with oak strip hardwood currently that is in rough shape, I plan to replace the floor but have a tenant unit in the basement and was wondering about what I could put under the new floor to baffle the noise from the upper level.

is there any product/underlayment available to put between the hardwood and the board that you would recommend?

2nd for a DIY'r what is the easiest material to work with we are thinkin gof going with engineered and would like to stay away from laminate.
Hope you had a chance to vote ;)

You can float the floors (not nail) & use sound rated underlay but the sound barrier should really go in the basement ceiling. If you will be floating then you can get click engineered hardwood which is more DIY friendly.

[patrob]

Excellent thread you have here, I had an installer measure my main floor last week and he mentioned that my RH of 37% would not be a problem with almost any solid hardwood as long as I let the wood acclimate for a week or two maybe a bit more for exotics. I have read that the moisture content of the subfloor and the hardwood need to match. If that is true how do I find out the MC%? Last question - since my home's RH fluctuates from 37% in winter months up to approximately 55% (or maybe 60%) in summer months, is it advisable to wait for a time to install the floor when the RH is at a median, say 47% or am I imagining a problem that probably won't exist?
Randy in Regina

Acclimatize the wood to the sub-floor not to the RH. Moisture meter will tell you the humidity of the wood & sub-floor, the closer it is the better. You can install the wood anytime of the year.

[kyfe]

Hope you had a chance to vote ;)

You can float the floors (not nail) & use sound rated underlay but the sound barrier should really go in the basement ceiling. If you will be floating then you can get click engineered hardwood which is more DIY friendly.

Unfortunately when we bought the house the basement was already finished, I doubt the prior owners would have insulated between the floors. As for the underlay are there particular brands i should look for and is there a way that their sound rating is measured? Ie like with insulation R value.

Thanks

[patrob]

Unfortunately when we bought the house the basement was already finished, I doubt the prior owners would have insulated between the floors. As for the underlay are there particular brands i should look for and is there a way that their sound rating is measured? Ie like with insulation R value.

Thanks
Underlays have IIC ratings. For nail down you need solid underlay like cork. All of the underlays work in conjunction with the sub floor so if the sub floor cavity is not sound insulated, the underlay will not really work. In the end it's pretty much a waste of money.

[patrob]

We need more voting support :)

If you find this thread helpful, please vote for us in 2012 Member Awards (http://forums.redflagdeals.com/2012-member-awards-most-helpful-thread-voting-round-vote-now-1303789/)!

Thank you in advance ;)

[ymenotu]

Been reading this thread for a few months now. Thanks. Sign up just to vote.

[patrob]

Been reading this thread for a few months now. Thanks. Sign up just to vote.

Thank you!

[patrob]

Just wanted to THANK everyone who voted for us in the 2012 Member Awards for Most Helpful Thread!

The poll ends tomorrow in case you haven't voted yet ;). Thanks for the support.

[patrob]

The RFD community has selected our thread as the most helpful for 2012 :cheesygri

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/5152/badgemosthelpfulthread1.png

Thanks again for all those who voted for us! We really appreciate the support and we look forward to many more years of helping others with their hardwood flooring questions :)

[schauli]

Hello patrob,

I am currently redoing my living room floor (in the GTA) because my dog ruined the oak floor.. It's about 370 sq ft and I got quotes of around $3200~ I no longer have a dog, so I figured it'd be a good time to redo the floor. I am looking for a medium brown (similar to Vintage Maple Windsor) hardwood floor that is quite durable. Do you have any recommendations for companies to redo my floor and the type of wood (brand, type of tree) I should use? I seriously know nothing about home renovation, and you seem to be quite the expert here so I hope you can give me some suggestions :D

So far Abco (140 Duffield Dr) seemed like an okay company, but if you have any other company recommendations that are not too expensive please do let me know!! My budget is $3400.

Thanks a lot in advance, I truly appreciate it !

[devonw]

Hi patrob,

I'm looking to replace the carpet in my living room, family room, 4 bedrooms and circularstairs (treads, riser to be painted white) totals to approx 1000sqft. My husband and I currently like:

3 1/4" semi gloss red oak graphite mirage $6.35sqft or 4 1/4" wire brushed white ash shadow superior $4.50sqft. Which hardwood would you recommend?

Also we were quoted basic installation $1.78/sq ft. *Do you a recommendation for an installer?

Thanks! Love this thread by the way.

[patrob]

Hello patrob,

I am currently redoing my living room floor (in the GTA) because my dog ruined the oak floor.. It's about 370 sq ft and I got quotes of around $3200~ I no longer have a dog, so I figured it'd be a good time to redo the floor. I am looking for a medium brown (similar to Vintage Maple Windsor) hardwood floor that is quite durable. Do you have any recommendations for companies to redo my floor and the type of wood (brand, type of tree) I should use? I seriously know nothing about home renovation, and you seem to be quite the expert here so I hope you can give me some suggestions :D

So far Abco (140 Duffield Dr) seemed like an okay company, but if you have any other company recommendations that are not too expensive please do let me know!! My budget is $3400.

Thanks a lot in advance, I truly appreciate it !
If you're not worried about dents & scratches, you can use pretty much any species like oak, maple, hickory, etc. Oak & hickory will be the most durable. If you remove the existing floors & do some of the prep work yourself, you can easily fit in that budget. What did the $3,200 include? When you go to the store, you never know who will install your floor since you are dealing with the sales rep. not the installer :)

[patrob]

Hi patrob,

I'm looking to replace the carpet in my living room, family room, 4 bedrooms and circularstairs (treads, riser to be painted white) totals to approx 1000sqft. My husband and I currently like:

3 1/4" semi gloss red oak graphite mirage $6.35sqft or 4 1/4" wire brushed white ash shadow superior $4.50sqft. Which hardwood would you recommend?

Also we were quoted basic installation $1.78/sq ft. *Do you a recommendation for an installer?

Thanks! Love this thread by the way.

I would choose Mirage over Superior. But it's your money so go with what you like better. Semi gloss finish will show more damage over wirebrushed. Ash even though looks "similar" to oak, will show more damage. It's hard to find a good installer these days especially for that price, most good installers charge more than $2 sq. ft.

[mmhassa2]

the rfd community has selected our thread as the most helpful for 2012 :cheesygri

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/5152/badgemosthelpfulthread1.png

thanks again for all those who voted for us! We really appreciate the support and we look forward to many more years of helping others with their hardwood flooring questions :)

congrats! :)

[TooSoonJr]

The RFD community has selected our thread as the most helpful for 2012 :cheesygri

http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/5152/badgemosthelpfulthread1.png

Thanks again for all those who voted for us! We really appreciate the support and we look forward to many more years of helping others with their hardwood flooring questions :)

Well deserved, your thread/help have been fantastic and really helped me with my install.

[williamsauga]

Congratz to "the most helpful for 2012" award

now if anyone here can recommend me a good hardwood installer/flooring specialist in Mississauga, that would be awesome!

[Meridien]

Congratulations on the most helpful for 2012 award!

I have a question regarding my oak hardwood floor. It has the satin polyurethane finish. I recently applied the Zep hardwood and laminate floor refinisher to a small area. However, it left the area with a shiny finish, which I definitely don't like. How can I restore it back to the satin finish? The Zep product is at this link:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/hardwood-and-laminate-floor-refinisher-946-ml/981703

Thanks!

[m2pphkg]

Congratulations on the most helpful thread!

I'm installing the 3-1/4 maple hardwood but could I butt up along the marble piece of the kitchen tiles without the half inch gap for expansion on this side? The width of the room is 13 ft. Thx.

[patrob]

Congratulations on the most helpful for 2012 award!

I have a question regarding my oak hardwood floor. It has the satin polyurethane finish. I recently applied the Zep hardwood and laminate floor refinisher to a small area. However, it left the area with a shiny finish, which I definitely don't like. How can I restore it back to the satin finish? The Zep product is at this link:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/hardwood-and-laminate-floor-refinisher-946-ml/981703

Thanks!
The refinishing solution it's like applying another coat of varnish so you can't do anything with it, you have to buff it/screen and recoat it with satin. And that might still be a little more shiny.

[patrob]

Congratulations on the most helpful thread!

I'm installing the 3-1/4 maple hardwood but could I butt up along the marble piece of the kitchen tiles without the half inch gap for expansion on this side? The width of the room is 13 ft. Thx.
Of course butt it up to the tile. You leave expansion gap at the wall.

[biggerthanboykins]

I'm looking to buy about 820 sqft of laminate. As I am re-doing my moms condo. Kids will eventually run rampant and inevitably liquids will be spilt on the laminate. My nieces are 8 and 5yo. Any recommendations on what I should look for?

[Capt.]

Good news to hear you won the Most Helpful Thread award! I voted :)

Sort of related question...have you heard of anyone refinishing oak baseboards? I'm guessing it would be like refinishing a floor. Have to sand them down totally and remove all the prior finish? I know it would be labour intensive but the material is/was expensive.

[patrob]

I'm looking to buy about 820 sqft of laminate. As I am re-doing my moms condo. Kids will eventually run rampant and inevitably liquids will be spilt on the laminate. My nieces are 8 and 5yo. Any recommendations on what I should look for?

Try Costco laminate, there is a large thread about it.

[patrob]

Good news to hear you won the Most Helpful Thread award! I voted :)

Sort of related question...have you heard of anyone refinishing oak baseboards? I'm guessing it would be like refinishing a floor. Have to sand them down totally and remove all the prior finish? I know it would be labour intensive but the material is/was expensive.

Thanks for the vote ;-)

Yes it can be done but will be a lot of work. You have to strip to bare wood and start over. Depends on shape you can use a palm sander.

[13inches]

Just wanted to chime in and say thanks to Patrob and all the other contributors for this thread. I purchased my floor materials last night on the advice of this thread for not much more than the cheap guys wanted for no-name brands. Without this thread who knows what I would have ended up with.... most likely a headache.

[Corinthein]

Hi Patrob and RFD members,

Planning on having some oak hardwood layed on the main floor, house is only a couple of years old, bought directly from builder. The subfloor the builder gave us is named PointSix.

http://www.ainsworthengineered.com/all-products/floors/flooring/pointsix-flooring/

Will this serve as a sufficient sub-floor? or would I need to have plywood installed on top prior to the hardwood going down?

Thank you

[patrob]

Hi Patrob and RFD members,

Planning on having some oak hardwood layed on the main floor, house is only a couple of years old, bought directly from builder. The subfloor the builder gave us is named PointSix.

http://www.ainsworthengineered.com/all-products/floors/flooring/pointsix-flooring/

Will this serve as a sufficient sub-floor? or would I need to have plywood installed on top prior to the hardwood going down?

Thank you
The link does not give any info. How thick is the subfloor? Make sure it's fastened properly with no squeaks and install hardwood across the joists.

[jman1717]

Hi Patrob,

Congrats on the award and thanks for all your ongoing help!

I'm looking to install laminates in my basement. What are your thoughts of installing Costco laminates and using Superseal All in One subfloor, which will be directly on the concrete. http://www.superseal.ca/all_in_one_subfloor.html. Was originally looking to place Delta FL as my subloor, but then found this product and like it because of how low profile it is (3mm). I don't have much head room to spare down there.

Any experience with it? would I still need to put down a vapour barier, or will the dimpled sheet + foam backing on the Costco laminates be sufficient.

Thanks a million!

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

Congrats on the award and thanks for all your ongoing help!

I'm looking to install laminates in my basement. What are your thoughts of installing Costco laminates and using Superseal All in One subfloor, which will be directly on the concrete. http://www.superseal.ca/all_in_one_subfloor.html. Was originally looking to place Delta FL as my subloor, but then found this product and like it because of how low profile it is (3mm). I don't have much head room to spare down there.

Any experience with it? would I still need to put down a vapour barier, or will the dimpled sheet + foam backing on the Costco laminates be sufficient.

Thanks a million!

You don't really need an extra vapour barrier since the dimpled sheet acts similar.

[simarks]

I'm looking for a nice handscraped, distressed Canadian hardwood that is manufactured in Canada as well. Most likely it will be oak and a mid brown in colour (chestnut, tobacco) not a really dark black/brown. Any thoughts on a suitable brand or store where I should start? I need about 1200 sq ft.Thanks!
Stacey

[patrob]

I'm looking for a nice handscraped, distressed Canadian hardwood that is manufactured in Canada as well. Most likely it will be oak and a mid brown in colour (chestnut, tobacco) not a really dark black/brown. Any thoughts on a suitable brand or store where I should start? I need about 1200 sq ft.Thanks!
Stacey

There are Canadian manufacturers using Canadian or North American wood but the actual manufacturing and scraping is done outside the country due to labour costs. What is your budget? Because these products are higher in price & most of them come in engineered.

[simarks]

Ok. Thanks patrob. That makes sense. I would love to keep it at around $5 but I think that's going to be impossible. I've found some engineered around the $7 price point. One is a purParket brand and I've found a few solid hardwoods but they aren't popular brands (NAF, Canadian Standard). I can't seem to find a lot about them online. I'm also confused about whether I should be looking at a solid or engineered, or a hybrid of the two. I seem to get different opinions at each store. I don't mind a 4" wide plank, but some are closer to 5. From my understanding over 5 should be engineered. Is that correct? This is for a house- living room, dining, kitchen and bedrooms. I feel like some of the stores I go into seem like 'fly by night' operations so I'm somewhat reluctant to purchase from them. I'm just trying to think long term and if I ever had to make a claim on warranty- will these stores be there? It doesn't seem like it. Any advice would be much appreciated!

[zabuza]

@patrob, just wanted to thank you for this thread as it's been a great resource for a complete newbie to all this. I'll officially be paying a mortgage in about a month and will definitely be redoing the floors of the unit before moving in. Based on the information I've gleaned from this thread and prices for similar work quoted on Homestars, it's going to cost a fair bit more than I was expecting. Things I've learned:

- good engineered hardwood will cost ~$7/sq.ft
- good installers will charge ~$2/sq.ft
- carpet removal extra
- subflooring presumably extra

Assuming around 800 square foot of space, am I looking at a $10000 job? I was expecting it to cost no more than $5000 :lol:.

I may just go with laminate, as much as I like a nice hardwood floor.

[simarks]

I think we're narrowing it down to a 7.5" wide handscraped engineered oak that is oil stained. The brand is PurParket. I think it's a somewhat newer product. Have you had any experience with it or any thoughts? We have the price at around 6.50 per sf and our contractor is doing the install. It seems like an interesting product.

[canukgrey]

I thought I would start The OFFICIAL Hardwood Flooring Thread, since there are many people always asking for hardwood flooring advice/help.

Since I have knowledge on the topic, just ask away if you have any specific questions ;)

Has anyone used the Canadian Appalachian hardwood flooring? How is the quality? Durability?

[patrob]

@patrob, just wanted to thank you for this thread as it's been a great resource for a complete newbie to all this. I'll officially be paying a mortgage in about a month and will definitely be redoing the floors of the unit before moving in. Based on the information I've gleaned from this thread and prices for similar work quoted on Homestars, it's going to cost a fair bit more than I was expecting. Things I've learned:

- good engineered hardwood will cost ~$7/sq.ft
- good installers will charge ~$2/sq.ft
- carpet removal extra
- subflooring presumably extra

Assuming around 800 square foot of space, am I looking at a $10000 job? I was expecting it to cost no more than $5000 :lol:.

I may just go with laminate, as much as I like a nice hardwood floor.
Laminate will def. be the cheapest option. Yes good eng. hardwood will cost more, installation will also be higher if it's a condo. You also need reducers and finishing trim :)

[patrob]

Has anyone used the Canadian Appalachian hardwood flooring? How is the quality? Durability?

Don't really use it. In the past they had some quality issues, not sure now.

[patrob]

I think we're narrowing it down to a 7.5" wide handscraped engineered oak that is oil stained. The brand is PurParket. I think it's a somewhat newer product. Have you had any experience with it or any thoughts? We have the price at around 6.50 per sf and our contractor is doing the install. It seems like an interesting product.
Can't really give you any info. about this particular product.

[canukgrey]

Thank you patrob
Yes I read some reviews talking about their quality issues. We had chosen Mirage but the cost is at the top of our budget. Other than Mirage and Superior can you recommend Hardwood manufactures that you have had success with.

[crazyqqq]

Home depot is having this one sale. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/3-4-x-3-1-4-hard-maple-chocolate-20-sq-ft/998868

[hoob]

Due to some subfloor levelling, I have a difference of about 2.5" between my new tile kitchen floor and my old livingroom hardwood floor, about 30" wide at a doorway. What's the best option for a transition piece here? I was thinking of just getting a piece of poplar or other harder wood and doing a drop of about 1.5" over 3", and a leave the remaining inch a drop.

[patrob]

Home depot is having this one sale. Any comments?

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/3-4-x-3-1-4-hard-maple-chocolate-20-sq-ft/998868
Sometimes goes on sale for $2.99 ft. It's very soft.

[patrob]

Due to some subfloor levelling, I have a difference of about 2.5" between my new tile kitchen floor and my old livingroom hardwood floor, about 30" wide at a doorway. What's the best option for a transition piece here? I was thinking of just getting a piece of poplar or other harder wood and doing a drop of about 1.5" over 3", and a leave the remaining inch a drop.
Get the same or similar species as your floor to make that threshold and I don't think your floors are poplar. The rest you are on the right track.

[RFWood]

Hi, my wife and I were at the local home show and saw an oiled finish solid hardwood flooring product called Intemporel. They said it breathes and can be used below grade and even glued down. Supposedly small scratches etc. can be repaired fairly easily. It almost sounds to good to be true. My wife thinks that because there is no hard varathane type finish that it will damage more easily. Any thoughts?

[hoob]

Get the same or similar species as your floor to make that threshold and I don't think your floors are poplar. The rest you are on the right track.

Thanks.. The flooring will be replaced in the next five years so I don't need to go too fancy. If I can get access to a table saw I'll go for a harder wood like oak.

[crazyqqq]

Sometimes goes on sale for $2.99 ft. It's very soft.
thanks patrob.

[patrob]

Hi, my wife and I were at the local home show and saw an oiled finish solid hardwood flooring product called Intemporel. They said it breathes and can be used below grade and even glued down. Supposedly small scratches etc. can be repaired fairly easily. It almost sounds to good to be true. My wife thinks that because there is no hard varathane type finish that it will damage more easily. Any thoughts?
If it's true oil finished it's less durable but at the same time can be touched up easier by the homeowner. No solid hardwood should be installed below grade! Nobody will guarantee you that solid wood will stay perfectly straight and that's what you need for glue down.

[hoob]

If it's true oil finished it's less durable but at the same time can be touched up easier by the homeowner. No solid hardwood should be installed below grade! Nobody will guarantee you that solid wood will stay perfectly straight and that's what you need for glue down.

That reminds me... Is there any sort of wipe-on oil finished renewer for old hardwood? Just to make it look a bit better until I replace it. The landing at the base of the stairs is the worst as that's where everyone steps and pivots (and grinds the feet into the wood.) :D

ie, right now if I wipe it down with water to clean it it looks better (shinier and less visible scuffs) so a mineral oil approach might has a more long lasting effect? Is it OK to try butcher block oil (alreay have some for my cutting boards) ?

[Dragon120]

Hello Patrob,
I might be too late for this inquiry but in your opinion, is there a qualitative difference between big box stores (ie. Lowes) vs a carpet/hardwood specialized store?

I inquired at Canada Flooring and the price was essentially the same quote I got from Lowes. The hardwood we chose at Canada Flooring was $4.99 vs $3.99 at Lowes. I am certain they are two different products; hence, the price difference.


Thanks.

[HelenWin1]

A kitchen contractor told me that he highly recommends Torlys cork for use in kitchens, even in homes where there are pets and likely to be spills etc. Does Torlys stand up to such conditions? I have a dog who likes to knock over his water dish, and I'm not always home to be aware and clean up immediately. Thanks for any info.
Helen

[TPC]

Patrob, really appreciate your time.

What are your thoughts on lumber liquidators? They market themselves as high value but this is my first flooring project and might be doing my research in the wrong place..

Looking at Virginia Mills Handscraped Engineered in 'Potomac Plank' at 3.48/ft. What do you think? (link) (http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/can/c/Potomac-Plank-Handscraped-Engineered-Virginia-Mill-Works-Engineered-HSPP5/10004930)

[OnHolidays]

Hi there..
We are looking to install hardwood flooring throughout the main floor..approximately 600 sq ft. Do any reputable hardwood companies make 1/2" thick hardwood flooring. I want to stay with nailed down flooring as I don't like the clickety sound of laminate floors (no offence to anyone who loves them).
I am open to engineered flooring as well...but the price does concern me.

BTW....the reason we would like to stay with 1/2" is...because of the height of baseboards. Cutting them would be a pain...plus there are a few spots where the floor(currently carpet) transitions to ceramic. We would have to take all of the baseboards off and put them back on...which we are trying to avoid.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....
Thank you in advance to all those who reply... :)

[patrob]

That reminds me... Is there any sort of wipe-on oil finished renewer for old hardwood? Just to make it look a bit better until I replace it. The landing at the base of the stairs is the worst as that's where everyone steps and pivots (and grinds the feet into the wood.) :D

ie, right now if I wipe it down with water to clean it it looks better (shinier and less visible scuffs) so a mineral oil approach might has a more long lasting effect? Is it OK to try butcher block oil (alreay have some for my cutting boards) ?

You can buy floor rejuvenation products at big box stores but it doesn't last long and wears out quickly. Best way is to resand floors. If your floors were finished with some sort of varnish the oil will make it look worse.

[patrob]

Hello Patrob,
I might be too late for this inquiry but in your opinion, is there a qualitative difference between big box stores (ie. Lowes) vs a carpet/hardwood specialized store?

I inquired at Canada Flooring and the price was essentially the same quote I got from Lowes. The hardwood we chose at Canada Flooring was $4.99 vs $3.99 at Lowes. I am certain they are two different products; hence, the price difference.


Thanks.

Lowes may carry the same product but you have to look at the grade of wood, etc. Lowes might have a slightly lower price because of volume.

[patrob]

A kitchen contractor told me that he highly recommends Torlys cork for use in kitchens, even in homes where there are pets and likely to be spills etc. Does Torlys stand up to such conditions? I have a dog who likes to knock over his water dish, and I'm not always home to be aware and clean up immediately. Thanks for any info.
Helen

You should have a bug rubber mat under the dogs water bowl. Cork is great on your feet and Torlys makes great quality cork products and it is pretty durable. It's installed frequently in kitchens.

[patrob]

Patrob, really appreciate your time.

What are your thoughts on lumber liquidators? They market themselves as high value but this is my first flooring project and might be doing my research in the wrong place..

Looking at Virginia Mills Handscraped Engineered in 'Potomac Plank' at 3.48/ft. What do you think? (link) (http://www.lumberliquidators.ca/can/c/Potomac-Plank-Handscraped-Engineered-Virginia-Mill-Works-Engineered-HSPP5/10004930)
You get what you pay for. Looking at their name, they liquidate products that's why their prices look low. Not familiar with that product.

[patrob]

Hi there..
We are looking to install hardwood flooring throughout the main floor..approximately 600 sq ft. Do any reputable hardwood companies make 1/2" thick hardwood flooring. I want to stay with nailed down flooring as I don't like the clickety sound of laminate floors (no offence to anyone who loves them).
I am open to engineered flooring as well...but the price does concern me.

BTW....the reason we would like to stay with 1/2" is...because of the height of baseboards. Cutting them would be a pain...plus there are a few spots where the floor(currently carpet) transitions to ceramic. We would have to take all of the baseboards off and put them back on...which we are trying to avoid.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated....
Thank you in advance to all those who reply... :)
There is no need to remove baseboards! For that you have quarter round ;) Transition between different floors, you have reducers for that. Sounds like you are doing the installation yourself?

[canukgrey]

Hello Patrob
I have been told that a 4 bevel wood is best for hardwood flooring What exactly does this mean? What else makes a good hardwood floor?

[canabiz]

Yes, highly recommend it! Humidifier is not only for your floors but also great for your health.

Hi Patrob, we have a new home (1 year old now) with Maple 3 1/4 everywhere except basement and wet areas. We took possession of the new build and had a contractor coming in to do the flooring. We installed A/C last summer and also opted to go with a central humidifier. I wasn't home at the time of the install but the installer told my wife to flip the switch from summer to winter at the first snowfall. So far so good.

I recently (couple of days ago) had an inspector coming in to inspect the home for our 1-year Tarion period. He told me I should not be using the humidifier (or I should be using a passive model as opposed to flow-through) as it creates additional moisture in the house and can cause the hardwood floors to buckle. He pointed me to a couple of spots (both main floors and upstairs) where the planks were not flush with the rest of the flooring.

I asked him for his advice and he told me to turn off the humidifier and I have done just that. Winter is coming to an end and I don't feel dry in the house or anything but I am wondering if you have any feedback on this? Is it typical of new home or is it because of the type of wood that we have or is our home simply too humid? I used to have a hygrometer in the previous home to measure humidity but not sure where it is now, I'll try to find it or get a new one.

He told me the A/C acts as a de-hudimifier in the summer so I don't have to worry too much there (not that we use the A/C a whole lot as we want to save $ lol but that's another topic). He also told me to leave the furnace fan in the On position all the time (as opposed to Auto) as it helps circulate and maintain cleaner air.

Thanks.

[OnHolidays]

There is no need to remove baseboards! For that you have quarter round ;) Transition between different floors, you have reducers for that. Sounds like you are doing the installation yourself?

We are getting the flooring installed professionally...but haven't decided about when to start the reno...

Any suggestions on the hardwood manufacturers that make 1/2" thick flooring??

[JakInTheBox]

Hey Patrob - I'm in the market for some hardwood and think I've narrowed the field down to either:

- Wickham Canadian Plus (60/40 blend)
- Expression (Distinct Grade) by Parquets Alexandra (http://parquetsalexandra.com/site/?page_id=11145)
- Superior (Select Grade) http://www.superiorflooring.ca/hardwood-grades

Colour will be natural, so we know there will be some variation. Given these options, any advice on which to choose?

[patrob]

Hello Patrob
I have been told that a 4 bevel wood is best for hardwood flooring What exactly does this mean? What else makes a good hardwood floor?

Yes go with 4 bevel, it means the bevel is all around the board, no sharp edges. Some cheaper manufacturers have bevels only on the long edges. Go with Canadian manufacturer & look at the grade of wood.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob, we have a new home (1 year old now) with Maple 3 1/4 everywhere except basement and wet areas. We took possession of the new build and had a contractor coming in to do the flooring. We installed A/C last summer and also opted to go with a central humidifier. I wasn't home at the time of the install but the installer told my wife to flip the switch from summer to winter at the first snowfall. So far so good.

I recently (couple of days ago) had an inspector coming in to inspect the home for our 1-year Tarion period. He told me I should not be using the humidifier (or I should be using a passive model as opposed to flow-through) as it creates additional moisture in the house and can cause the hardwood floors to buckle. He pointed me to a couple of spots (both main floors and upstairs) where the planks were not flush with the rest of the flooring.

I asked him for his advice and he told me to turn off the humidifier and I have done just that. Winter is coming to an end and I don't feel dry in the house or anything but I am wondering if you have any feedback on this? Is it typical of new home or is it because of the type of wood that we have or is our home simply too humid? I used to have a hygrometer in the previous home to measure humidity but not sure where it is now, I'll try to find it or get a new one.

He told me the A/C acts as a de-hudimifier in the summer so I don't have to worry too much there (not that we use the A/C a whole lot as we want to save $ lol but that's another topic). He also told me to leave the furnace fan in the On position all the time (as opposed to Auto) as it helps circulate and maintain cleaner air.

Thanks.

Get a hygrometer to monitor your humidity & adjust according to that. Some planks may cup or might have been from the beginning. Not all inspectors know what they are talking about ;) Refer to hardwood manufacturer specs for proper humidity. Maple doesn't like changes in humidity, if higher than 50% it will show cupping!

[patrob]

We are getting the flooring installed professionally...but haven't decided about when to start the reno...

Any suggestions on the hardwood manufacturers that make 1/2" thick flooring??

Most of solid hardwood is 3/4" or close to it. If you are having it done professionally why not ask your installer for what they recommend?

[patrob]

Hey Patrob - I'm in the market for some hardwood and think I've narrowed the field down to either:

- Wickham Canadian Plus (60/40 blend)
- Expression (Distinct Grade) by Parquets Alexandra (http://parquetsalexandra.com/site/?page_id=11145)
- Superior (Select Grade) http://www.superiorflooring.ca/hardwood-grades

Colour will be natural, so we know there will be some variation. Given these options, any advice on which to choose?

Wickham then Superior, very similar products. Never heard of the other one.

[canabiz]

Get a hygrometer to monitor your humidity & adjust according to that. Some planks may cup or might have been from the beginning. Not all inspectors know what they are talking about ;) Refer to hardwood manufacturer specs for proper humidity. Maple doesn't like changes in humidity, if higher than 50% it will show cupping!

I picked up an old-fashioned hygrometer at a local hardware store, patrob and you may be right, the humidity level does not change much when I turned off the humidifier and after I turned it on. It shows 45% on the dial for our house which I take is a normal level.

Small sample size and the weather could be a factor but it looks like I am OK for now...have no doubt it will increase as the summer approaches but that's what the A/C is for :-)

Thanks

P.S: I checked Eterna spec for humidity and it looks like we are right on the money as they recommend keeping the humidity level between 45% and 55%

http://www.eternafloors.com/medias/pdf/brochures/Rendition_E.pdf

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/bangminton/photo1_zps7c916faf.jpg

[patrob]

I picked up an old-fashioned hygrometer at a local hardware store, patrob and you may be right, the humidity level does not change much when I turned off the humidifier and after I turned it on. It shows 45% on the dial for our house which I take is a normal level.

Small sample size and the weather could be a factor but it looks like I am OK for now...have no doubt it will increase as the summer approaches but that's what the A/C is for :-)

Thanks

P.S: I checked Eterna spec for humidity and it looks like we are right on the money as they recommend keeping the humidity level between 45% and 55%

http://www.eternafloors.com/medias/pdf/brochures/Rendition_E.pdf

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/bangminton/photo1_zps7c916faf.jpg
Looking good :)

[13inches]

FWIW, I went to one of the biggest paint shops in the area today (Steeles Paint in Woodbridge) to get some stain matched to my Superior hardwood for doing my stairs. I figured I'd leave them a sample and they'd match it up for me in a day or two, but it turns out they had already matched the colour previously for another customer and still had it in their system. Turns out they have hundreds (if not thousands) of stains previously matched and still in their system. So if you're looking for a stain to match your hardwood, I'd certainly given them a call.

And just be aware, custom stains aren't cheap.

[Nadnarb]

Has anyone had any experience with Tarkett prefinished hard wood? I was looking at their 'Canadiana' line of maple in 3 1/4 at a local flooring store, but uncertain of the quality or durability of the product. Any information or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[infogirl]

I'm hoping someone can help. I just finished installing dricore in our basement. I'm looking for a flooring solution that is healthy, relatively inexpensive, easy to install, durable, and can deal with the fact that the sub floor is bouncy and likely off level. I ended up using 3 packs of dricore shims for 300 sq ft. I don't want carpet, or vinyl as there are respiratory issues in our household. Is there such an animal?

I currently have a box each of allure click vinyl and the golden select strand woven bamboo (carbonized) click flooring sitting on it and have been playing with a trial install of each of them. The reviews have me worried.

I fully admit that I'm in over my head here, but we spent a large part of our budget on the dricore, because we felt that was the most important part of our new (healthier) basement floor.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[patrob]

FWIW, I went to one of the biggest paint shops in the area today (Steeles Paint in Woodbridge) to get some stain matched to my Superior hardwood for doing my stairs. I figured I'd leave them a sample and they'd match it up for me in a day or two, but it turns out they had already matched the colour previously for another customer and still had it in their system. Turns out they have hundreds (if not thousands) of stains previously matched and still in their system. So if you're looking for a stain to match your hardwood, I'd certainly given them a call.

And just be aware, custom stains aren't cheap.
Yes you're right, they are not cheap!

[patrob]

Has anyone had any experience with Tarkett prefinished hard wood? I was looking at their 'Canadiana' line of maple in 3 1/4 at a local flooring store, but uncertain of the quality or durability of the product. Any information or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Not too many people use it that I know of.

[patrob]

I'm hoping someone can help. I just finished installing dricore in our basement. I'm looking for a flooring solution that is healthy, relatively inexpensive, easy to install, durable, and can deal with the fact that the sub floor is bouncy and likely off level. I ended up using 3 packs of dricore shims for 300 sq ft. I don't want carpet, or vinyl as there are respiratory issues in our household. Is there such an animal?

I currently have a box each of allure click vinyl and the golden select strand woven bamboo (carbonized) click flooring sitting on it and have been playing with a trial install of each of them. The reviews have me worried.

I fully admit that I'm in over my head here, but we spent a large part of our budget on the dricore, because we felt that was the most important part of our new (healthier) basement floor.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Laminate will be your cheapest option & there are low VOC's after it's installed. Or try cork (http://www.torlys.com/cork) or leather (http://www.torlys.com/leather) flooring from Torlys but the price goes up.

[t3359]

Hi Patrob,

Another hardwood project for us - we're replacing an old parquet floor with hardwood on the main floor of a house. My parents are convinced engineered hardwood is the way to go, although the regular hardwood will do. Anyway, I checked the subfloor and it's 3/4" plank, running at 45-degrees from the joists. Once we rip up the parquet, do we need plywood? Probably something like 3/8"? We're hoping to not need plywood since it'll raise the floor relative to an adjacent tiled area.

Finally, if all three options were available for the flooring they pick (e.g., some type of red oak engineered), would you recommend nail/staple, glue, or float?

thanks again!
bjl

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

Another hardwood project for us - we're replacing an old parquet floor with hardwood on the main floor of a house. My parents are convinced engineered hardwood is the way to go, although the regular hardwood will do. Anyway, I checked the subfloor and it's 3/4" plank, running at 45-degrees from the joists. Once we rip up the parquet, do we need plywood? Probably something like 3/8"? We're hoping to not need plywood since it'll raise the floor relative to an adjacent tiled area.

Finally, if all three options were available for the flooring they pick (e.g., some type of red oak engineered), would you recommend nail/staple, glue, or float?

thanks again!
bjl
If the plank sub-floor is not damaged, you can install new flooring right on top of it. If you would like a nice working surface, you can use 1/4" multiply or 3/8" to minimize the height difference. Nailed or stapled over wooden sub-floor, fastener will depend on product used. We never do floating floor on wooden sub-floor unless it's laminate.

[-=Wraith=-]

Is there a FAQ for a noob like me that I missed in this thread? :p

For a new house in this day and age, is it recommended to go with solid or engineered for the ground floor (assuming someone else is installing)? From what I've read so far (here and elsewhere), it seems:

Engineered
- is easier to install
- not so humidity-dependent

Solid
- Can be sanded/refinished more times
- Squeaky because it has to be nailed down?

Not to mention, I have no idea what type of wood I want, only that I like darker shades...

[patrob]

Is there a FAQ for a noob like me that I missed in this thread? :p

For a new house in this day and age, is it recommended to go with solid or engineered for the ground floor (assuming someone else is installing)? From what I've read so far (here and elsewhere), it seems:

Engineered
- is easier to install
- not so humidity-dependent

Solid
- Can be sanded/refinished more times
- Squeaky because it has to be nailed down?

Not to mention, I have no idea what type of wood I want, only that I like darker shades...

You can go with either. Many times people refer to engineered as laminate but engineered hardwood is installed the same way as solid (nailed down) plus you can also float it or glue it down. You can also refinish engineered hardwood, just depends what thickness you go with. Engineered hardwood is generally more expensive & if you are going with a standard width like 3 1/4", solid wood will be fine but keeping an eye on humidity will be good especially in winter plus it's better for your health too if you have a humidifier.

[alexzakher]

Hi Patrob, I have a question for you. We are getting a brand new home at the end of July. The builder is giving us carpet on the main floor which we want to upgrade to engineered hardwood. Do we need to also rip out the baseboards?

[patrob]

Hi Patrob, I have a question for you. We are getting a brand new home at the end of July. The builder is giving us carpet on the main floor which we want to upgrade to engineered hardwood. Do we need to also rip out the baseboards?

I hope you are doing the hardwood upgrade after closing! No need to rip out baseboards, just install a doorstop/shoe moulding.

[WDmagic]

Great thread. Need some advice please.

We bought a 50 yrs old house. They currently have 800 sq ft hardwood floors on the 2nd floor (2-1/4”) with carpet covering the hallway & master bedroom (nailed). The other bedrooms do not have carpet covering the hardwood so the floors are quite worn out in some area. There are some squeaky sound throughout the 2nd floor.

We are debating whether to re-sand & stain to a darker color. Will they be able to remove the nail holes, cover the scratches & fix the squeaking floors? Or should we just replace with new hardwood floors? Thx.

[patrob]

Great thread. Need some advice please.

We bought a 50 yrs old house. They currently have 800 sq ft hardwood floors on the 2nd floor (2-1/4”) with carpet covering the hallway & master bedroom (nailed). The other bedrooms do not have carpet covering the hardwood so the floors are quite worn out in some area. There are some squeaky sound throughout the 2nd floor.

We are debating whether to re-sand & stain to a darker color. Will they be able to remove the nail holes, cover the scratches & fix the squeaking floors? Or should we just replace with new hardwood floors? Thx.
You can fill holes and resand the scratches if enough wood is left (might have been refinished a few times already) but you cannot fix the squeaks. Refinishing will be pretty much a temporary solution until the squeaks drive you crazy and eventually you will replace the floors :). So depending what condition the floors are in, this might be a good time to replace them if budget allows.

[SickBeast]

*edit* nevermind, my deal fell through on the house I was bidding on. :(

[pandorazw]

I have 2-story townhouse. The first floor has just done with red oak autumn color (from superior flooring). I'm thinking to rip off the carpet on second floor and replace with either hardwood or laminate, but in case of hardwood I don't want to spend as much as the first floor project. Any other manufacturer or brand with lower cost you can recommend? I do hope the project can increase the house re-sale value.

[patrob]

I have 2-story townhouse. The first floor has just done with red oak autumn color (from superior flooring). I'm thinking to rip off the carpet on second floor and replace with either hardwood or laminate, but in case of hardwood I don't want to spend as much as the first floor project. Any other manufacturer or brand with lower cost you can recommend? I do hope the project can increase the house re-sale value.

Hardwood will def. be better for resale than laminate. You can go with lower grade oak to lower cost, maybe remove the carpet yourself to save $. But you will be limited to a product that matches closely.

[wantboost]

what do u guys think of Somerset Solid Appalachian Select Grade Oak 3/4 x 3 1/4" ?

[patrob]

what do u guys think of Somerset Solid Appalachian Select Grade Oak 3/4 x 3 1/4" ?

Can't help you much on this particular product, we rarely install Appalachian. Select will most likely be 2nd grade oak.

[wantboost]

so how does "superior flooring" compare?

[pinkyring]

Hi, does anyone know where to get reasonable hardwood flooring prices in Winnipeg besides Rona and HD? I'm looking to replace my carpet/vinyl flooring with hardwood and I'm wondering where I should go for the best price including installation. Total area would be around 2000sf plus a flight of stairs. What would the costs be? Can anyone also recommend an installer?

[patrob]

so how does "superior flooring" compare?

People are attracted to Superior mostly because of the price in 2nd grade. But you never know what you get, sometimes good, sometimes sucks.

[leafnation5]

Can you please comment on Sherwood or Canadian Standard brand oak?

[patrob]

Can you please comment on Sherwood or Canadian Standard brand oak?

Those are small operation brands. Not sure about now but in past they didn't even have their own manufacturing, somebody else was finishing their product. We never installed their product so don't have any opinion about it.

[pufferfish_deal]

Folks,

I'm considering Preverco honey and Mercier Galliano red oak. The best quotes I got were
Preverco honey 31/4 - $4.65
Preverco honey 41/4 - $5.50

Mercier Galliano red oak 41/4- $5.09

Has anyone got a better deal recently? Which brand is better of the two ?

Thanks in advance!

[leafnation5]

Those are small operation brands. Not sure about now but in past they didn't even have their own manufacturing, somebody else was finishing their product. We never installed their product so don't have any opinion about it.

Are they Canadian made? If they are getting finished from China then I do not think so?
I could not find who is manufacturer?

[patrob]

Folks,

I'm considering Preverco honey and Mercier Galliano red oak. The best quotes I got were
Preverco honey 31/4 - $4.65
Preverco honey 41/4 - $5.50

Mercier Galliano red oak 41/4- $5.09

Has anyone got a better deal recently? Which brand is better of the two ?

Thanks in advance!
Are both the same grade? Both are very similar products.

[patrob]

Are they Canadian made? If they are getting finished from China then I do not think so?
I could not find who is manufacturer?

It used to be North American wood finished locally. The place that's selling you the wood should be able to provide you with more info. unless they have something to hide.

[pinkyring]

Bump. Anyone?


Hi, does anyone know where to get reasonable hardwood flooring prices in Winnipeg besides Rona and HD? I'm looking to replace my carpet/vinyl flooring with hardwood and I'm wondering where I should go for the best price including installation. Total area would be around 2000sf plus a flight of stairs. What would the costs be? Can anyone also recommend an installer?

[patrob]

Bump. Anyone?

Can't really help but maybe someone else can. Have you tried some local hardwood flooring stores? That will be your best option.

[JC69]

Anyone know anything about Gaylord flooring? Looking to get their premium Tigerwood flooring in a smallish room. We have two big dogs and we thought a natural wood finish and the different grain patterns would cover any scratches the monsters might make.

[pufferfish_deal]

Are both the same grade? Both are very similar products.

Yes they are. So which one do you recommend?
(Thanks in advance)

[pinkyring]

That would next on my hit list, but I would have thought that places like Rona and HD would have better prices since they can negotiate better prices with the mills due to their volume purchases. Maybe I'm wrong.


Can't really help but maybe someone else can. Have you tried some local hardwood flooring stores? That will be your best option.

[patrob]

Anyone know anything about Gaylord flooring? Looking to get their premium Tigerwood flooring in a smallish room. We have two big dogs and we thought a natural wood finish and the different grain patterns would cover any scratches the monsters might make.

Don't have any experience with their wood. Grain will hide some of the scratches but I would still go with oak or hickory than any exotic in lower gloss finish.

[patrob]

Yes they are. So which one do you recommend?
(Thanks in advance)

Go with the cheaper if grade is the same as long as you like the colour.

[patrob]

That would next on my hit list, but I would have thought that places like Rona and HD would have better prices since they can negotiate better prices with the mills due to their volume purchases. Maybe I'm wrong.

HD often has hardwood on sale for around $3 sq. ft. if that's what you're looking for. Why not also get their discounted gift cards at 20% off ;) (hopefully you can find it in Winnipeg)

[kharcoff]

Any opinions about this one? http://www.costco.ca/.product.352956.html
Maple 7" plank 3/4" hand scraped and distressed. For my second floor 1400 sf.
Any feedback helps.

[starvx]

Hi Patrob,

First great thread, lots of info. We are currently shopping around to lay some hardwood on the main floor of our home, as well as a a few stairs and a basement landing. We had one estimate a few days ago and the measured space is approx. 460 sq/ft, his quote was 4750 for Twelve Oaks brand hardwood at a cost of $3.79 sq/ft. WOrking backwards, does that labour rate seem about right? Also, I was concerned that he mentioned that he typically doesn't do stairs but that these ones should be ok. The once concern is the 3/8 height difference between the top of the kitchen tiles and where the top of the 3/4" hardwood would be. He said that he will just use a reducer and showed a sample that would bulge up even higher from the top of the ceramic. Ideally I wanted the wood flush with the tiles, or at the very least have a gentl slope down. Is this possible ? I read that you make your own reducers? How common is this for installers? Thanks.

[patrob]

Any opinions about this one? http://www.costco.ca/.product.352956.html
Maple 7" plank 3/4" hand scraped and distressed. For my second floor 1400 sf.
Any feedback helps.

Stay away from such wide plank in solid wood or you're asking for trouble especially maple! I don't recommend anything larger than 4" in solid wood otherwise go with engineered plank.

[patrob]

Hi Patrob,

First great thread, lots of info. We are currently shopping around to lay some hardwood on the main floor of our home, as well as a a few stairs and a basement landing. We had one estimate a few days ago and the measured space is approx. 460 sq/ft, his quote was 4750 for Twelve Oaks brand hardwood at a cost of $3.79 sq/ft. WOrking backwards, does that labour rate seem about right? Also, I was concerned that he mentioned that he typically doesn't do stairs but that these ones should be ok. The once concern is the 3/8 height difference between the top of the kitchen tiles and where the top of the 3/4" hardwood would be. He said that he will just use a reducer and showed a sample that would bulge up even higher from the top of the ceramic. Ideally I wanted the wood flush with the tiles, or at the very least have a gentl slope down. Is this possible ? I read that you make your own reducers? How common is this for installers? Thanks.

Not sure what this price includes, any removal, refasten sub-floors, quarter round, etc. Yes you will need a reducer if tiles are lower. Many installers get the ready made reducers which look ugly IMO, sorry. Yes it's possible to make a sloping reducer but if your installer does not know how to make them, can't really help you. I guess it all depends on the installer, some do it, some don't. Yes we make our own reducers :)

[nazawale]

How are thier prices Patrob?
www.canfloor.com

[caraj4u]

hello Patrob,

how is the wood from beaulieu canada?

thxs

[kharcoff]

Stay away from such wide plank in solid wood or you're asking for trouble especially maple! I don't recommend anything larger than 4" in solid wood otherwise go with engineered plank.

Thanks Patrob, got the sample today and cancelled the order as it was three strips finger jointed together and not a real plank. But thanks for the advice will stick with harder woods and keep the 4"-4 1/4" range in mind...

[us3r]

How are the Jasper hand scraped wood floors from builddirect.com? I already received the samples (which were delivered next day) and I'm really interested in the Jasper Harbors Collection - Handscraped Maple Engineered Maple - Indian Yellow. The sample passed the scratch, water, and dent test. Everything is good but not really sure how long it will last. It is made in China as well.
I'll be buying 700 - 750 sq ft for about $3500. This will replace the carpet on the main floor. Thanks in advance.

http://www.builddirect.com/Engineered-Hardwood-Floors/Maple---Indian-Yellow/ProductDisplay_8804_p1_10074819.aspx
http://www.jasperflooring.com/index.htm

Ships from New Jersey.

Also I know this was mentioned in previous posts but does anyone have any experience with Canadian Standard flooring? $2.99 / sqft
http://canadianstandardflooring.com/

Thanks

[JC69]

We have decided that we like a low gloss finish on our floors and have been looking at finishes such as oiled or ones that look like oil finishes. We visited a retailer today who said they had a new product from Parquets Alexandra which is a solid pre-oiled wood (I think it's there Intemporel collection) that they say can be laid as a glue down floor on a concrete slab with a vapour barrier inbetween. This is an interesting product if that's true as we were previously looking at only engineered wood flooring.

Any comments on this flooring?

[patrob]

How are thier prices Patrob?
www.canfloor.com
Prices look low but I have no info on quality of the products.


hello Patrob,

how is the wood from beaulieu canada?

thxs

Sorry can't help you with that.

[patrob]

We have decided that we like a low gloss finish on our floors and have been looking at finishes such as oiled or ones that look like oil finishes. We visited a retailer today who said they had a new product from Parquets Alexandra which is a solid pre-oiled wood (I think it's there Intemporel collection) that they say can be laid as a glue down floor on a concrete slab with a vapour barrier inbetween. This is an interesting product if that's true as we were previously looking at only engineered wood flooring.

Any comments on this flooring?

Solid wood can also be glued down but it's not warrant-able, it will still expand and contract and it might be impossible to keep the floor straight in line. Because solid wood boards are rarely true straight. I don't recommend solid wood glued down.

[us3r]

Which one would you pick out of the three? The middle one is maple and the others hickory.


I like the colour of the maple but the hickory has more strength. I'm guessing the hickory will be harder to install.

[patrob]

Which one would you pick out of the three? The middle one is maple and the others hickory.


I like the colour of the maple but the hickory has more strength. I'm guessing the hickory will be harder to install.
Yes hickory is harder than maple therefore more durable and harder to install. It's a personal preference so depends which grain you like better.

[Deborachie]

People are attracted to Superior mostly because of the price in 2nd grade. But you never know what you get, sometimes good, sometimes sucks.

Just wondered if you could explain 2nd grade hardwood as it relates to grade of wood. Is it 'select' or lower quality?
In a previous thread, you said that you'd choose Wickham 1st and Superior 2nd. ??
Just not sure I want to gamble on purchasing 'superior' if it's going to be a hit and/or miss in quality.
Thanks
D

[Markerman]

Hey everybody and I have no idea what I'm doing, but I know this is the thread for questions and hopefully providing the correct information!

So here's the situation... Recently purchased a 2.5 year old house constructed by GreenPark with plywood sub-floors on the 1st floor.
I'm looking to do ~350 sq ft. of OAK hardwood that is currently carpeted in the living/dining room next to the kitchen (the rest are tiles in kitchen and foyer and hallway)

Below are some questions would like some advice:
1) My dad said that it would be better to screw in another layer of wood over top of the sub-floor to produce less squeakiness (is this wrong or okay to do?)
2) From reading the threads, I wouldn't want to get hand-scraped hardwood as it has a squiggly finish if I'm not mistaken? Also, I hear a lot about solid sawn but nothing comes up on Google that explains it properly?
3) What type of OAK should I be focusing on? or is it just my own preference of grain / colour / hardness?
4) If you feel generous, maybe recommend any hardwood or quality brand name woods you've used for ~5.50 tax included for quality wood in GTA/Markham? 3.25" width

Thank you all for helping me out! If I've missed any important information, let me know!

[doug2523]

Are both the same grade? Both are very similar products.
they are both CDN, they both used to have their wood milled by PG hardwood and finish it themselves, now as far as I know they both do everything themselves and both are very similar quality wise

[patrob]

Just wondered if you could explain 2nd grade hardwood as it relates to grade of wood. Is it 'select' or lower quality?
In a previous thread, you said that you'd choose Wickham 1st and Superior 2nd. ??
Just not sure I want to gamble on purchasing 'superior' if it's going to be a hit and/or miss in quality.
Thanks
D
Grading from better manufacturers 1st grade should be very clear. 2nd grade will show more colour variation with some visible knots & checks. Very often more short pieces possible with 2nd grade. Select & Better is usually 1st grade & Select is usually 2nd but some manufacturers might call it diff. Very often lower quality manufacturers will have higher variation of colour in 1st grade than others, etc. Don't rely only on my opinion (as our experience might be diff. from others), you have to make your decision based on all gathered information. Both are very similar products so go with the colour you like best.

[patrob]

Hey everybody and I have no idea what I'm doing, but I know this is the thread for questions and hopefully providing the correct information!

So here's the situation... Recently purchased a 2.5 year old house constructed by GreenPark with plywood sub-floors on the 1st floor.
I'm looking to do ~350 sq ft. of OAK hardwood that is currently carpeted in the living/dining room next to the kitchen (the rest are tiles in kitchen and foyer and hallway)

Below are some questions would like some advice:
1) My dad said that it would be better to screw in another layer of wood over top of the sub-floor to produce less squeakiness (is this wrong or okay to do?)
2) From reading the threads, I wouldn't want to get hand-scraped hardwood as it has a squiggly finish if I'm not mistaken? Also, I hear a lot about solid sawn but nothing comes up on Google that explains it properly?
3) What type of OAK should I be focusing on? or is it just my own preference of grain / colour / hardness?
4) If you feel generous, maybe recommend any hardwood or quality brand name woods you've used for ~5.50 tax included for quality wood in GTA/Markham? 3.25" width

Thank you all for helping me out! If I've missed any important information, let me know!
1) Not necessary to add additional layer of plywood. It will not prevent squeaks, it will only increase your height difference between flooring, tile & trim, etc. Refasten your sub-floors with screws to eliminate squeaks.

2) Solid Sawn is a definition of the way engineered wood is constructed. If you search this thread it's been talked about many times before. Hand scraped finish is not for everybody so I guess you might want to go with smooth finish.

3) There is only red or white oak so either one is fine. Hickory is another option, slightly harder than oak & has similar grain.

4) For your square footage that extra $300 you can get 1st grade 3 1/4" or 4" plank from local reputable manufacturer like Vintage for example. Only Vintage offers Solid Sawn if that's what you're looking for but will be more $.