View Full Version : Finishing basement:ceiling around main duct
typer100
Aug 11th, 2008, 09:06 AM
I did a suspended ceiling in my last home and will probably go this way also with the new one.
But in this house, the heating system is forced-air and I have the main duct going crossing by basement in the middle.
I guess I don't have a choice and need to go with drywall around it. People also mentioned that I need to use metal stud for the framing around it instead of wood because of the heat/cold.
Any suggestions?
BuildingHomes
Aug 11th, 2008, 09:13 AM
I don't know who told you about metal studs, but I don't think that's true.
New houses are framed in wood.. Only in wood, right around the duct work :)
typer100
Aug 11th, 2008, 10:34 AM
I don't know who told you about metal studs, but I don't think that's true.
:)
The reason the were metionning metal stud (2X4) around the main duct, is the heat/cold would make the wood warp and drywall joints may crack more.
OldFortYork
Aug 11th, 2008, 11:33 AM
Frame it with metal studs. They're lighter on the framing and very easy to work with.
hugh_da_man
Aug 11th, 2008, 01:43 PM
The reason the were metionning metal stud (2X4) around the main duct, is the heat/cold would make the wood warp and drywall joints may crack more.
I heard this as well. My basement in my new house is framed with metal studs due to the fact that the wood studs have a tendency to warp (especially in a basement).
I think you pretty much have to frame and drywall it. I plan to do the same.
BuildingHomes
Aug 11th, 2008, 02:08 PM
The reason the were metionning metal stud (2X4) around the main duct, is the heat/cold would make the wood warp and drywall joints may crack more.
Perhaps, but it's not a requirement.
Drywall will dry out and shrink, so you will have cracking in some areas no matter what.
Usually I see the duct work boxed in with wood 2x2's in new homes if that's any help.
Munchos
Aug 11th, 2008, 09:55 PM
This must be the Mike Holmes way. My basement has the exact same setup and it is boxed in using wood and drywall.
BTW, more people should be using drop ceilings in basements just for the service factor of all the lines running from the basements.
Nightwing
Aug 11th, 2008, 10:25 PM
I framed in my duct work 5 years ago with wood studs and I have no cracking at all. I also reinforced everything with 2.5" screws after it was up.
I could see there being a problem using cheap drywall compound. My brother used some when he created a new wall in the basement, and he's has cracks starting to appear after 2 years.
mlc2000
Aug 12th, 2008, 01:01 AM
Metal studs are great, zero warping and u can cut them with snips instead of a saw. Less mess and fast. Very easy to make minor ajdustments.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/itsfatboy/basement084.jpg
OldFortYork
Aug 12th, 2008, 11:53 AM
You should only use wood if you're going to be hanging something off the studs.
Otherwise it doesn't make sense really.
9999
Aug 12th, 2008, 12:43 PM
I was going to go steel until I priced it out. Top U channel = $3.75, 1&5/8 steel stud = $3.32 and L angle =$3.17 per piece. Even if you use 2x4’s for the whole bulkhead they are around $1.60 per piece. Maybe prices are cheaper where you are but I cannot justify spending more than double the price on steel.
BuildingHomes
Aug 12th, 2008, 03:44 PM
What length 2x4 is that for $1.60? Here 8' lengths are about $2.80ish.
9999
Aug 12th, 2008, 03:55 PM
8 footers at HD in Winnipeg, 2X4X92&5/8 is $1.58 and 2X6X96 is $2.67
redac
Feb 17th, 2009, 04:41 PM
Metal studs are great, zero warping and u can cut them with snips instead of a saw. Less mess and fast. Very easy to make minor ajdustments.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y188/itsfatboy/basement084.jpg
Nice job on the bulkhead. Did you have any areas where they spanned more than 24" and required a brace? (or stud across?)
dphythian
Feb 17th, 2009, 04:57 PM
I'm planning on just framing the drop ceiling around the ductwork. You don't have to use drywall
whodaphucru
Feb 17th, 2009, 10:25 PM
I framed my basement in wood but used metal studs around the ductwork. Way faster and easier, no sawing just a pair of tin snips and a level!
I have a span of about 5 feet where the cold air return and heat duct are side by side. I just put a brace in between the ducts and it is pretty sturdy.
pkguy
Feb 18th, 2009, 01:14 AM
For the last 60 years ever since WWII when people started developing basements into rec rooms in their homes in every single province and ever single state in N.America they have used WOOD with no problems. Geesh where does all this other crap about warping, cracking etc come from? Stop listening to all the know-it-alls who know nothing but how to get you to waste YOUR money on unnecessary things. I've done two basements like this with wood, my parents house at 50+ y.o is done with wood as has every other house and I've never heard or seen this so called problem.
mlc2000
Feb 18th, 2009, 01:18 AM
Nice job on the bulkhead. Did you have any areas where they spanned more than 24" and required a brace? (or stud across?)
24"?
joists are 16" OC.
Easy to build a brace though..
bryan35
Feb 18th, 2009, 12:01 PM
Doing it with wood is fine. It is cheaper but not as easy to do. I did mine with metal because it was easier and faster to do.
Mack1979
Mar 11th, 2009, 08:15 PM
I just framed in my entire basement. I used 2x2 s around the duct work. Is there a minimum clearance from duct to 2x2?
Kreez
Mar 12th, 2009, 10:36 AM
Wood is fine.
Here's what I did for some soffit work in my home theater room:
http://www.usertest.shawbiz.ca/hometheater/soffit-bar.gif
Here you can see the 2x2 and 2x3 construction of the soffit frame.
http://www.usertest.shawbiz.ca/hometheater/Finished/seating2.gif
And here you see the finished product. The vertical sides were covered with MDF and painted to match the wall finish, and the horizontal bottom was treated with acoustic tiles just like the rest of the room.
(The projector barn is incomplete in this second picture.)