Ask me AA Men's suits and shirts | Article: Spring Trends

[PennyArcade]

New Article (16/3/2012): Spring Trends Read Post #2.
Monthly Shirt Fabric choices. Read Post #3.

If you find this thread useful, "thanks" and 5 star ratings would be much appreciated

Previous Articles:

Winter Coar Primer
To Taper, Or Not To Taper
What to Wear with...
Colours for Spring/Summer 2011
What's Your Favorite Pattern?
The Facts Behind Sea Island Cotton
What Every Man Should Have In His Closet
How to take care of your clothes
Back To Basics: Grey and Navy Blue
Understanding Fabric-Talk
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I have recently gotten into the custom tailoring business and would like to be of assistance to anybody that have questions on men's suits and shirts, particularly within the custom tailoring area.

I'm going to reserve the next couple of posts for a FAQ list and will also be writing small articles on men's suits and shirts (that are will also be posted at our blog)

Look forward to reading your posts!

Pennyarcade
IM-Label
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FAQ

NEW: How is a suit supposed to fit?

Here is a good link from Esquire showing how a suit should fit. Most people that buy off the rack (OTR) know that the suit should cut in and the shoulders should fit well, but the ignore the length of the jacket. Length is just as important, else you will look like you have stubby little legs or worse, too short for you. Make sure you go for Tall or Short if Regular OTR don't fit the length guideline. Of course, you can avoid all of this and go with made to measure.

I'm confused about ties, could you help me?

There are three main tie knots in use today: Four in Hand, Half Windsor and Full Windsor.

To learn how to tie these knots, please visit this link.

A few comments on ties:

• The tie end should end up around your belt buckle. Shorter and it looks like you don't know how to properly tie a tie. Any longer and it looks like you are trying to direct people to look at your crotch.
• Four in hand is great for thin ties since it has a small knot. They are also reserved for less formal occasions and go well with narrow collars.
• Half Windsor is good for almost any occasion. You can use it with both regular and spread collars.
• Full Windsor is a formal knot that conveys a bold statement and has the best symmetry. You can use it with both regular and spread collars, but is more appropriate for spread collars.
• To add the dimple, simply pinch the middle of tie with your index finger before tightening the knot and tighten. This will take some practice to get it right, and is most appropriate on the Half and Full Windsor knot.

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What exactly is Business Formal and Business Casual?

Business formal: Full suit, shirt and tie
Business casual: Full suit and shirt (top button undone)

The only difference between the two is a tie. Business casual is not just shirt and pants. If you don't know what attire is appropriate for your workplace/event, then always go more formal. You can always take the tie off and undo a button if the environment dictates it.
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What are the rules with buttons on a suit jacket?

Never do up the bottom button on a 2 or 3 button suit. This is a carryover from the when King Edward VII was too heavy to button up his bottom button and it stuck as a fashion statement. I can't believe how many men I see wearing their suit with all the buttons done up. The suits are designed to look their best with the bottom button undone, so look your best and undo that bottom button.

For double breasted suits, never undo any buttons in public.

You can unbutton a suit jacket completely when you are seated, but be sure to rebutton when standing.
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I want to buy a suit, what are my options?

There are basically three ways to buy. Shirts also have a similar breakdown.

1. Off the rack

This is usually the first way people buy a suit. Go to any men's clothing store and you'll see a multitude of styles and colors.

The advantages are: you get the product immediately, you can buy brand name (if that's your thing) and there are way more off the rack locations than the other options.

The disadvantages are: the product will likely not fit you well and you'll be spending quite a bit of money on a brand name. Also, you cannot choose options since the suit is already made.

Bottom Line: Off the rack it is sometimes the only way to go to buy a suit or shirt due to time constraints, but I try to avoid it when possible and rather spend my money on quality. If you do go this route, try to find places that will do alterations for free because you WILL need an alteration to look your best.

2. Bespoke

This option is the total opposite of off the rack and it can make you feel like a king! Meaning "spoken for" in old english, bespoke is a complete custom suit from the ground up, just for you. These master tailors are few and far between, will require a number of visits, and will cost in the 4 figures.

The advantages are: you will get the best fitting suit, following every contour and hiding imperfections. You will be able to choose exactly what you want on your suit. You love a particular Canali suit that you saw in GQ? take that picture and show it to a bespoke shop and they will likely be able to make you a suit that looks like it. The service will be exquisite, catering to almost any need.

The disadvantages are: $$$$$$$. These will START from $1000, and that's with mediocre fabric. The time from order and finish could take anywhere from 1-2 months, with multiple visits required from the client to test the fit of the suit as it is being made.

Bottom Line: Sometimes this is the only way a demanding person can find satisfaction in a suit. If you've tried the other options and can't find what you need, go this route. Be warned, do your homework and find a reputable bespoke shop or you may get scammed.

1. Made to measure (MTM)

MTM straddles between the off the rack and bespoke. Once a client chooses the style, fabric and gets measured, a standard template for the suit style will be scaled to the client's measurements and built.

The advantages are: you can choose the options, styling and fabrics that you want. It is much cheaper thank bespoke and sometimes have prices comparable to off the rack, usually with better quality.

The disadvantages are: the lead time is typically a month. You will not be able to see your suit until it is finished (and usually paid for), relying on the MTM's quality standards. Again, do your homework. Visit their location and ask questions: see their quality, ask if they have suits made for other clients.

Bottom Line: MTM is a good compromise between off the rack and bespoke. You can choose how the suit details and have it built so that it fits you, all for the price you would typically pay at a off the rack location. Sure, it takes a some time to see the final product, but find a good MTM store and you'll be set for life. Also note that you should look for an MTM store that provides free alterations after the product is done. Even though the suit is MTM, it usually needs some minor alterations to make you look your best.

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What are the rules with belts, shoes and socks?

The color of the belt and shoes should be the same.

Socks should match the color of your trousers, not your shoes. Socks are there to "continue" the illusion of your trouser legs down to the shoe. The result? a longer looking leg and a way to show off your nice shoes (be sure to have nice shoes! They are important). If you match the sock color to your shoe color, it breaks the illusion and makes you look shorter.

Shoes should be a darker tone than your pants. So light brown shoes should not be worn with black pants nor dark brown pants.

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What other online resources are useful for me?

StyleForum.net: A great resource for any person. Not just business wear, but also for everything in clothing.

askandyaboutclothes: Another great resource on men's clothing. A more formal and classy approach. Also, his encyclopedia on men's clothing is a great resource if you want to know everything on clothing etiquette.

[PennyArcade]

Spring is just around the corner and this weather is definitely helping me get into the spirit! We here at IM-Label have been hard at work getting our spring fabric lineup (which will be up soon). Spring is supposed to be energetic, bright and full of life, so here are some of my picks for the upcoming spring season that will let you bring some pop into your wardrobe!

Suits (or pants):

• Get a light grey suit. It works so well with so many spring color shirts (which I will describe below). Heck, even light grey pants will add a spring like hue to your image that will get you noticed. It brightens you up in the typical dark suit world.
• Get a blue suit. More and more people are getting a bit tired of the charcoal grey suit and the pendulum is swinging back towards blue. The blue I'm talking about definitely isn't your standard navy blue suit, but rather a more energetic (brighter) version of it. If you have no trouble determining that the suit is blue under yellow (ie normal bulbs) light, I would consider it appropriate for spring.
• Checks. For the guy that has many suits, it is time to get a check suit. It looks amazing when the fit is there. Whether it is glen plaid, textured, or subtle, it will add a unique look to your wardrobe.
• While this isn't strictly for spring, I would suggest textured fabrics. The subtle nature of textured fabric adds another dimension to your look. It will look solid from far away, but as people get closer, they can see more and more detail. I love that.

Shirts:

• Yellow. Always a classic spring color. I agree that is difficult to pull off a solid yellow shirt, so what can a guy do? Patterns of course! Interweave some blue in with the yellow to soften the blow (and wear with that energetic blue suit I was talking about!). A lot of our clients have been ordering the blue/yellow color combo.
• Green. This one is a hard one and I don't recommend it for everyone. Try one on and see if you like it. I recommend a soft light green (think new grass shoots) and again patterns to subtly work it in.
• Tangerine Orange. This is Pantone's Color of the Year (if you take a look around the malls, you'll see this color quite a bit). I won't joke around with this one: I can't see how this would be office appropriate. Casual is a totally different story. Match with jeans and a grey blazer and you'll have a outfit that really pops.

So there you have it, my thoughts on the new springtime colors and ways you can energize your wardrobe. I'll leave you with one last tip: get a pocket square. In this world where not many people wear ties, a pocket square can definitely replace your tie as an accessory. It would be even better if you can find a square that matches your shirt (or better yet, is made from the same shirt material!).

[PennyArcade]

November Shirt Fabrics of the Month

IM-Label started a shirt fabric of the month article, where each of us picks a fabric they like and talk about it. I think this will help some of the RFD'ers in not only seeing what shirt fabrics are popular these days, but also pair such shirts with other aspects of your wardrobe. Without further ado, here are our choices:

Pics of shirt fabric
My first choice for this month is this classic striped shirt. Its base colour is white and it features a thin blue stripe flanked by pink stripes. This shirt is ideal for the office and I can’t think of a better suit colour to pair it with than navy blue – the colours will work really well together. When choosing a tie, consider choosing a simple textured tie in pink or blue. I also think this would be a great candidate for French cuffs. The colour of the shirt is not overwhelming; especially since it has a white base, so it will work with most skin tones.

The second choice for this month is one of my favourites. (You’ll soon see me sporting this one at work). It’s my all time favourite pattern: gingham. This one is executed in two dominant colours instead of just one. As per usual the base colour is white, and the intersecting stripes are black and cobalt. The extra shot of colour adds a bit more visual interest to the look of the shirt. It’s very trendy now to wear these patterned shirts with solid ties and this one is no exception. This shirt is busy and should take the focus. Your suit and tie should be toned down. I would suggest pairing the shirt with a solid charcoal or black suit. Your tie choice: a simple necktie or bowtie in solid black. The darker colours in the shirt are balanced by the white base colour making it a suitable choice for most skin tones. This is definitely one to look into.

My last choice is a striped white fabric. It’s executed in three colour ways: black, blue or purple stripes. For this article, I’ll talk about the purple stripe – I think the colours here would work really well with many different suits. On close inspection, you’ll find the texture of this shirt is reminiscent of a small scale basket weave pattern. The texture by itself is interesting enough however the stripes add another layer if interest. First of all there are three mini stripes: one in a dark purple and two in a lighter shade. The stripes are all broken, so it’s almost like a pin stripe in a strange way. I also like the weight of this fabric; it has a substantial feel to it. This would make a great office appropriate look with a grey, black or navy suit. A tie in purple (pattern or solid) would look best with your suit choice. Once again, all of the colour choices of this shirt are easy wear, but ask your stylist should you need any tips on tie or suit coordination.

[Cereal KiIIer]

I've never had a suit on me and I'm 26. I'm will be graduating soon and will need one at least for interviews. I hate people who wear suits that are not made for them (you know the late 20' early 30' douche with a bluetooth earpiece and sunglasses on is head ). They always seems too big and they use ridiculous colors for the tie or the shirt.

I'm 5'10 and weight around 190 (slightly overweight but I have large shoulders and most of it is in the belly).

What cut would you suggest (I need all the details you could give me).

[PennyArcade]

I've never had a suit on me and I'm 26. I'm will be graduating soon and will need one at least for interviews. I hate people who wear suits that are not made for them (you know the late 20' early 30' douche with a bluetooth earpiece and sunglasses on is head ). They always seems too big and they use ridiculous colors for the tie or the shirt.

I'm 5'10 and weight around 190 (slightly overweight but I have large shoulders and most of it is in the belly).

What cut would you suggest (I need all the details you could give me).

Hi cereal.

Congrats on your imminent graduation! It is an exciting time.

For your first suit, there's nothing better than a standard navy blue, 2 button suit. It is the quintessential suit for any man. A few other suggestions to be "modern" are: no pleats in the pants, no cuffs in the pants, notched lapel (since you have large shoulders, don't need help from peaked lapels) and a single vent. Also, the length of the jacket is trending it to be shorter than normal (normal is around the knuckles of your hands when you drop your arms).

As for the fit, the jacket should fit and contour your body. A large suit on a overweight person will just make one look even more overweight. Whether you get an off the rack suit and alter it or get a made to measure is up to you. Remember, even the best quality suit will look bad if you don't get it fit to your body.

[LeetViet]

What's the price of a custom suit from you, and do you have any pictures of your work?

[zonda12]

I've lost some weight recently - my suit jacket is quite big, which sucks coz it's a great quality suit.

-Is it possible to decrease the width of the jacket?
-If so, how long would it take, and how much would it cost (approx)?

Thanks

[GeneralDisaray]

I really like the style of Ermenegildo Zegna suits, if that is considered off the rack, where can I get an MTM with that style and quality?

[nsX-]

whats the average cost and time to have dress shirts made to fit your specific measurements ?

[PennyArcade]

What's the price of a custom suit from you, and do you have any pictures of your work?

Hi Leet, sent you a PM on your request.

whats the average cost and time to have dress shirts made to fit your specific measurements ?

Hi nsX, I also sent you a PM.

[PennyArcade]

I've lost some weight recently - my suit jacket is quite big, which sucks coz it's a great quality suit.

-Is it possible to decrease the width of the jacket?
-If so, how long would it take, and how much would it cost (approx)?

Thanks

Hi Zonda12, congrats on your weight loss!

You can indeed bring in the width of a jacket, but it really depends on how much you need to bring it in by. If the weight loss is considerable, then everything has to come in, including the shoulders, arms and length. That's crazy expensive since the tailor needs to basically recreate a suit.

We here at IM-Label do provide alterations, but only to our customers. There are many fine alteration shops within Toronto if you search for them. PM me your location and I'll see if I can recommend a place for you. As for time and cost, I'm going to guess around a week or so and likely over $100, depend on the amount of work.

I really like the style of Ermenegildo Zegna suits, if that is considered off the rack, where can I get an MTM with that style and quality?

It really depends on which avenue you want to go. If you don't want to pay for the name, then you can go either MTM or bespoke. MTM will make a good fitting suit for a cheaper price, but will not get the nuances of a Zegna because the templates are standardized. Bespoke will be able to make a suit that will look like a Zegna and fit you the best, but at a huge cost.

If you want to pay for the name, Holt Renfrew actually has the genuine Zenga MTM service. This will guarantee the zenga template and fabric, but at a high cost. In the end, you'll get a suit that fits like MTM and at a higher price point than bespoke.

[JohnEnglish]

Where did you take the pictures for your website? It seems really familiar. I want to say Schulich but I'm not certain; it's been a while.

What kinds of fabrics do you offer and what level of customization do you offer for the suits? I realize you're not full besoke so that's why I'm asking.

[nsX-]

hey unfortunately i didnt receive any pms , so if you could send me one again that would be great thanks.

[PennyArcade]

hey unfortunately i didnt receive any pms , so if you could send me one again that would be great thanks.

haha, I posted that message before replying to you via PM, sorry. Sent it to you.

[PennyArcade]

Where did you take the pictures for your website? It seems really familiar. I want to say Schulich but I'm not certain; it's been a while.

What kinds of fabrics do you offer and what level of customization do you offer for the suits? I realize you're not full besoke so that's why I'm asking.

Yeah, it is Schulich Good eye.

PM'ed you