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Ask me anything about home electrical requirements, electrical code, wiring, devices

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  • Nov 9th, 2017 9:30 pm
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Member
Jan 14, 2012
224 posts
22 upvotes
KITCHENER
Not trolling. Whats wrong with doing the rough-in and getting someone to wire it who knows that theyre doing? Lots of people finish their basements without any permits.
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Mar 23, 2008
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Edmonton
Supperfly wrote:
May 10th, 2017 11:17 am
Not trolling. Whats wrong with doing the rough-in and getting someone to wire it who knows that theyre doing? Lots of people finish their basements without any permits.
What's wrong with it? Besides the fact that the electrician could lose their license, and your insurance will be void if anything happens? Nothing.

C
Member
Jan 14, 2012
224 posts
22 upvotes
KITCHENER
Good point. Didnt think it would be that severe. Thanks for the info, i will look into it
Sr. Member
Sep 11, 2006
989 posts
176 upvotes
Toronto
Supperfly wrote:
May 10th, 2017 11:35 am
Good point. Didnt think it would be that severe. Thanks for the info, i will look into it
Ok I have to admit I went a bit overboard with the last post and sorry. Having lost someone dear to me to an electrical fire caused by someone unlicensed has left me bitter to the subject.
This is the fault of the ESA not educating the public enough. You can read about it here https://www.esasafe.com/consumers/home- ... -yourself/
Deal Addict
Aug 19, 2011
2695 posts
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Markham
Have another question:

I have a few outlets that appear to be GFCI in series (one GFCI receptable protecting another regular outlet). How can I add a dedicated GFCI receptacle in place of the regular receptacle so the master GFCI does not cut off this second outlet?

Do i need a permit for this in ON?

Thank you
[OP]
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Oct 26, 2003
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Winnipeg
X24Secret wrote:
May 11th, 2017 8:15 pm
Have another question:

I have a few outlets that appear to be GFCI in series (one GFCI receptable protecting another regular outlet). How can I add a dedicated GFCI receptacle in place of the regular receptacle so the master GFCI does not cut off this second outlet?

Do i need a permit for this in ON?

Thank you
not sure why you won't want the 1st gfci to protect the 2nd plug, but you can just move the load side wire to the line side of the gfci, although they still be sharing the same circuit, unless you want to pull a dedicated line back to the panel with another dedicated breaker.

and as always, if you have to ask if you need a permit, then you need a permit.
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Deal Addict
Aug 19, 2011
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Markham
divx wrote:
May 11th, 2017 8:25 pm
not sure why you won't want the 1st gfci to protect the 2nd plug, but you can just move the load side wire to the line side of the gfci, although they still be sharing the same circuit, unless you want to pull a dedicated line back to the panel with another dedicated breaker.

and as always, if you have to ask if you need a permit, then you need a permit.
The issue is the first one is upstairs and second one downstairs. The two are outlets for TOTO washlet toilets.

Ok so basically I had the idea to pigtail the LINE wires to the LOAD wires before feeding the first outlet so they stay on the same circuit but yet separate, I think that's the same idea right?

I guess I'll take out a permit to be safe as I'm replacing a few light switches with lighted ones as well and adding a humidity fan switch as well.

Thanks for your quick help.
[OP]
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Oct 26, 2003
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X24Secret wrote:
May 11th, 2017 8:32 pm
The issue is the first one is upstairs and second one downstairs. The two are outlets for TOTO washlet toilets.

Ok so basically I had the idea to pigtail the LINE wires to the LOAD wires before feeding the first outlet so they stay on the same circuit but yet separate, I think that's the same idea right?

I guess I'll take out a permit to be safe as I'm replacing a few light switches with lighted ones as well and adding a humidity fan switch as well.

Thanks for your quick help.
still don't see what the problem is, does your gfci trip all the time or something?
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Deal Addict
Aug 19, 2011
2695 posts
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Markham
divx wrote:
May 11th, 2017 9:40 pm
still don't see what the problem is, does your gfci trip all the time or something?
No it doesn't trip. To be honest It just mentally bugs me that the reset button is upstream on the second floor. Since I was going to have the power shut off to change out some switches I was just thinking of adding a full receptacle downstairs and isolate from the GFCI upstairs. But i get what you are asking, functionally it will be just as safe as it is...
[OP]
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Oct 26, 2003
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X24Secret wrote:
May 12th, 2017 12:39 am
No it doesn't trip. To be honest It just mentally bugs me that the reset button is upstream on the second floor. Since I was going to have the power shut off to change out some switches I was just thinking of adding a full receptacle downstairs and isolate from the GFCI upstairs. But i get what you are asking, functionally it will be just as safe as it is...
so we have the same condition
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Sr. Member
Sep 11, 2006
989 posts
176 upvotes
Toronto
I want to buy this cook top from Ikea but there is no documentation on the website. How many amps does it need to be powered? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50288693/
2x1200 W radiant zones.
1x2500W radiant zone.
1x3000W
Do I just add the watts? 1200+1200+2500+3000= 7900W divide this number by 240Volts? This gives me about 33 amps so am I right in assuming 40 amps breaker?
Why doesnt the ikea site have manuals????
Deal Fanatic
Jul 4, 2004
7213 posts
564 upvotes
Toronto
DIrty-D wrote:
May 12th, 2017 11:25 am
I want to buy this cook top from Ikea but there is no documentation on the website. How many amps does it need to be powered? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50288693/
2x1200 W radiant zones.
1x2500W radiant zone.
1x3000W
Do I just add the watts? 1200+1200+2500+3000= 7900W divide this number by 240Volts? This gives me about 33 amps so am I right in assuming 40 amps breaker?
Why doesnt the ikea site have manuals????
See if you can find it in store and look at the sticker on it that should tell you the total draw. Or get someone in store to pull up the manual. Or tweet them on Twitter maybe.
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Mar 23, 2008
4728 posts
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Edmonton
DIrty-D wrote:
May 12th, 2017 11:25 am
I want to buy this cook top from Ikea but there is no documentation on the website. How many amps does it need to be powered? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50288693/
2x1200 W radiant zones.
1x2500W radiant zone.
1x3000W
Do I just add the watts? 1200+1200+2500+3000= 7900W divide this number by 240Volts? This gives me about 33 amps so am I right in assuming 40 amps breaker?
Why doesnt the ikea site have manuals????
From what I could quickly google, it's a Whirlpool. Looking on the Whirlpool site has this:
https://www.whirlpool.com/kitchen/cooki ... 675xs.html

You probably won't go too far wrong using that as your basis.

Or you could, you know, phone Ikea... :)

C
Jr. Member
Sep 25, 2009
121 posts
6 upvotes
Hi
I need to do Elec-check on my rental property to get the municipal rental license. Is there a checklist somewhere so I can check to make sure things are alright before the inspector comes? The ESA website does not even post the requirement to get the certificate....
I don't want to spend $300 and fail on something stupid to spend $300 for a second check again.

Thanks

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