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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Member
User avatar
Mar 24, 2008
366 posts
8 upvotes
Munchos wrote:
Jan 29th, 2009 10:32 pm
The problem with Goodman is any person who is allowed to buy from a wholesaler can buy a Goodman. This along with people who insist on cheap prices is a recipe for disaster. You get what you pay for.

+1

It's not really a problem inherent with Goodman product though. Many other brands are distributed at the wholesale level (ex Keeprite, Ducane, Payne, Luxaire, etc). What most consumers don't appreciate with that survey is Goodman is the only wholesale distributed brand listed. Therefore it isn't really a fair comparison.

The Carrier, Lennox, York brands are dealer distributed meaning the manufacturer selects a contractor in a market to represent their brand. Usually these are the better contractors, thus lower installation problems. Consumer Reports includes Goodman in their survey because Goodman is the number one selling brand in all of North America.

Most contractors choose Goodman because of the value and quality of product. However, as Munchos said, this will inevitably include the dubious contractors and that's where the problems start. The furnace manufacturers are similar to the auto industry in that most of the internal components are made by others (i.e. Honeywell, Emerson, Copeland, etc). There isn't anything in a Goodman product I'm aware of right now that one can point a finger to and say, "aha!"

As a company, Goodman is very new. Carrier, Lennox, York are hundred year old companies and are synonymous with the industry. As elnlady mentioned they began as family owned operations. Mr. Goodman began making equipment in the early eighties and now has the number one market share in the entire residential market. Not bad, eh?
Deal Addict
Jan 3, 2005
2276 posts
45 upvotes
This might be a really dumb question...

Is there any air conditioning or heat pump or (?) system that doesn't require the big unit (compressor? sorry don't know what it's called) to be placed outside the home?

My mother lives in a townhouse condo and cannot install anything outside the home. What options are there, if any, for a cooling system?
Deal Addict
Jan 1, 2002
2521 posts
84 upvotes
Hi there, thanks for this thread, I had three questions:

First:

I have a Honeywell electronic air filter attached to my furnace, it has one slot with the mesh wire inserts and then another slot with those metal shelves that zap that dust.

My wife and one of my chidlren have Asthma, I was told I should remove what I'm currently using and I should use one of those merv throw-away inserts, I was told my measurements are 20 x 20 x 4, do you agree that a merv type throw away filter would be better to use then what I am currently using? if so, then what merv # should I be buying, I want it to help with the Asthma but I also heard that the higher the merv, the harder the blower has to work and that it will output less air to the house.

What do you recommend?

Second:

I have a whole house Carrier humidifier attached the my furnace as well. For this first time since living in the house, I actually installed a filter I just bought off ebay and turned the unit on, I remember being told to put the dial on 0 as long as it is less than 0 outside and to then slide this little door all the way open on the back of my furnace piping , which I did and to turn the unit off and close that little slot door when it is above 0. I was also told that I need to replace filter this every year.

Am I following the instructions correctly and since I installed this so late in the season, will I really need to replace it next year in November or whenever the temperature drops below zero?

What type of difference should I feel in the house with this working? The material was not what I was expecting, it feels like cork.


Third:

In the basement, the air vents are on the ceiling, we always leave the fan on on, so it is always blowing air whether the system is blowing heat or not, we were told this is the best way to circulate air in the house. The problem is, with the vents on the ceiling and our couches below, we find the air can sometimes feel very cold and uncomfortable on us. To get around this I replaced the covers with ones that shut but then the basement seems to get too cold with them shut all the time and since the ceiling is high, it's not realistic to keep shutting them open and shut, although in the summer it is no problem since I just leave them shut since the basement i snice and cool.

do you have any suggestions for this?


Thanks very much!
Jr. Member
Jan 19, 2006
188 posts
13 upvotes
Ottawa
Somewhat oddball symptom we are seeing here....hopefully someone can rationalise it before I call in my local chap.

Our furnace is around 3 years old, lennox, mid-efficiency
thermostat is brand new, honeywell, "touch screen" model

What we see happening is on the really cold days (we're in Ottawa), the furnace appears to 'shut off' and the temperature drops around 2 degrees C. That is, we have it set to 21 and most of the day, no problem maintaining this. But for some period of time, it let's the temperature drop down to around 19. Flicking the thermostat, I hear it 'click' so I think it's 'trying' to turn on the furnace but that's non-scientific ;)

My old man rekkons there could be some safe-guard on the furnace when the heatbox gets too hot, it needs to cool down. Given that it's running almost constantly when it's super cold, it sounds rational but I've never noticed it doing this before the past 2 years.

Questions:

1) Do we have a problem?
2) Should I call in the hvac chap?

Thanks
Deal Addict
Nov 12, 2006
2968 posts
75 upvotes
guppy98 wrote:
Feb 6th, 2009 7:46 am
Somewhat oddball symptom we are seeing here....hopefully someone can rationalise it before I call in my local chap.

Our furnace is around 3 years old, lennox, mid-efficiency
thermostat is brand new, honeywell, "touch screen" model

What we see happening is on the really cold days (we're in Ottawa), the furnace appears to 'shut off' and the temperature drops around 2 degrees C. That is, we have it set to 21 and most of the day, no problem maintaining this. But for some period of time, it let's the temperature drop down to around 19. Flicking the thermostat, I hear it 'click' so I think it's 'trying' to turn on the furnace but that's non-scientific ;)

My old man rekkons there could be some safe-guard on the furnace when the heatbox gets too hot, it needs to cool down. Given that it's running almost constantly when it's super cold, it sounds rational but I've never noticed it doing this before the past 2 years.

Questions:

1) Do we have a problem?
2) Should I call in the hvac chap?

Thanks
Since no one else is answering: I am not a HVAC repair guy. But, you are correct in that there is another control box at the furnace side. On older furnaces they do break and need to be replaced and on older boxes it was pretty simple. A guy or forum that knows lennox or a service guy can help you out.
Post your model number if you post in a repair forum.

sm
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jan 26, 2003
4676 posts
175 upvotes
(laughs) I was going to post a question re: furnaces etc ... as we thought our furnace motor had kicked the bucket ... when I went into our furnace room to do a more thorough inspection I found out that my wife had inadverdently shut off the furnace by brushing against the on/off switch.

Well, that puts off my furnace question for another day.

I guess my future question will revolve around when I should replace my furnace ... wait until it dies? I know that there are a few incentives out there to upgrade to higher efficiency furnaces?

Oh, the common man probably has considered outfits like Sears Homecentral ... what's your opinion about Sears or other larger outfits?

Thanks.
He .... looka lika MAN!

I tell you every ting!

----------------------------------------------------

If you haven't figured it out yet ... i'm not a female. Have you ever watched MADtv?
Sr. Member
May 24, 2003
931 posts
42 upvotes
guppy98 wrote:
Feb 6th, 2009 7:46 am
Somewhat oddball symptom we are seeing here....hopefully someone can rationalise it before I call in my local chap.

Our furnace is around 3 years old, lennox, mid-efficiency
thermostat is brand new, honeywell, "touch screen" model

What we see happening is on the really cold days (we're in Ottawa), the furnace appears to 'shut off' and the temperature drops around 2 degrees C. That is, we have it set to 21 and most of the day, no problem maintaining this. But for some period of time, it let's the temperature drop down to around 19. Flicking the thermostat, I hear it 'click' so I think it's 'trying' to turn on the furnace but that's non-scientific ;)

My old man rekkons there could be some safe-guard on the furnace when the heatbox gets too hot, it needs to cool down. Given that it's running almost constantly when it's super cold, it sounds rational but I've never noticed it doing this before the past 2 years.

Questions:

1) Do we have a problem?
2) Should I call in the hvac chap?

Thanks

What do you mean by flicking the thermostat? Are you physically turning the thermostat to a higher setting, and then you hear a clicking noise (relay closing BTW)? Does the furnace start up when you increase the thermostat temperature? Kinda vague description to the problem you are having. I have no idea what a control box is on a furnace, but there is a limit switch that opens up when it gets past its hot threshold, shutting down the furnace. And is some period of time say 3 hours?
Jr. Member
Jan 19, 2006
188 posts
13 upvotes
Ottawa
Munchos wrote:
Feb 12th, 2009 12:01 am
What do you mean by flicking the thermostat? Are you physically turning the thermostat to a higher setting, and then you hear a clicking noise (relay closing BTW)? Does the furnace start up when you increase the thermostat temperature? Kinda vague description to the problem you are having. I have no idea what a control box is on a furnace, but there is a limit switch that opens up when it gets past its hot threshold, shutting down the furnace. And is some period of time say 3 hours?
Sorry what I mean is:

I have it set to 21
Current room temp is 19
I lower the temp to 15 - hear the relay click OFF
I raise it back up to 21 - hear it click ON

So the thermo seems to think the furnace is on..but, well, it's not.

As for the description, it's really as simple as:

SOMETIMES (say once or twice a day when it's really cold) even though we have the thermo set to 21, the temp drops to 18 or 19. It sits there for a while (furnance not running) and then picks back up and can hold the 21 no probs. So it's intermittantly not being able to hold the temp.

My neighbour had a similar problem except his was just never able to reach the set temp. He had to get his furnace cleaned and voila...his world was good.

I think I'm just gonna have the furnance chap come out. Furnance is still under warranty so we'll see what he says.

Thx
Sr. Member
Jun 4, 2008
505 posts
6 upvotes
Toronto
I have a gas fireplace insert and contacted a friend of mine who will install and create a corner mantel for it in my living room, but I'm curious to know how much it would cost to have a gas line run inside (corner is to an exterior wall/my backyard - gas meter is outside about 20 feet away I believe) and how extensive the vent cutting is?

Debating an electric corner fireplace instead of the gas, but since I already have the insert I'm trying to guage the total cost
Member
Mar 24, 2006
401 posts
3 upvotes
Chatham
my heat just stopped working today, the furnace can still blow out the air but ignition does not ignite(or it doesn't attempt to ignite), i can hear the sound of the electricity, and the motor of the furnace(or the heat?) is very hot, any idea why? bad motor? replace the furnace?

and the ignite system does not have any signal light/flash.


Edit: my guess was right, it was the motor, replaced it for $400, not sure if that's the right price or i paid too much, oh well...
Jr. Member
Mar 31, 2004
172 posts
2 upvotes
Aurora
I have an Aqua Therm furnace where hot water from my water tanks runs through coils and air is forced past the heated coils.

Anyways, I currently have my thermostat set to 71
Jr. Member
Mar 31, 2004
172 posts
2 upvotes
Aurora
drumhead wrote:
Feb 24th, 2009 11:21 am
I have an Aqua Therm furnace where hot water from my water tanks runs through coils and air is forced past the heated coils.

Anyways, I currently have my thermostat set to 71
Sr. Member
May 24, 2003
931 posts
42 upvotes
drumhead wrote:
Feb 27th, 2009 11:44 am
Well I changed the battery in the thermostat hoping that perhaps it was the case that the old batteries were dying out on me. For the first couple of days it looked like that was the fix but came home yesterday and the furnace was still running at 75
Member
Jun 6, 2008
252 posts
24 upvotes
bririp wrote:
Jun 14th, 2008 9:12 am
If the main floor is cool and the 2nd floor is hot, there could be several different problems.

1) The ducts may not be balanced. You can have your house balanced where they make sure proper CFM of conditioned air is coming through each vent.

2) The fan speed for your furnace may not be fast enough for your A/C

etc.


there could be dozens of reasons why you aren't getting proper cooling upstairs, you should call a tech in to look at your system.
Brian,
We have the same problem. We moved into a newly built home 7 months ago, and when we pointed out to the builder that some rooms are warm/others cold (2nd floor vs 1st floor and even on opposite ends of the same floor) he said "of course you need to "balance" the HVAC" as if this was standard. I asked what he meant and it sounded like adjusting some vent openings.
This happens with the AC in summer and the furnace now in winter.

I worry that there is something "bigger" wrong with the installation that needs correcting, since there was venting missing in other areas of the house (kitchen hood vent missing, no laundry room ductwork) and if so, would like to get it noted on the upcoming one yr tarion warranty.

I have two questions:
1) could you give a rough $ price range for a tech "balancing" analysis?
2) could you comment on whether the findings are subjective/common, or if found to need corrective action would the builder be obligated to correct it at his expense? (not sure but this question may be better asked of a home inspector, which we are considering)
thx
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1058 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
hello,

1) It would be charged hourly. I charge $120 for up to the first hour, and $80 for every hour or less after that. A balance can take from 1 hour to check with little to no adjustment, or a couple hours if a lot of work has to be done.

2) The heating contractor for the builder is forced to supply 70 degrees in the winter throughout the house, at least this is what most companies aim to do.
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