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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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  • Dec 8th, 2019 8:01 am
Newbie
Sep 17, 2010
1 posts
Burlington
I had this unit installed just over 2 years ago. The unit stopped working recently so the technician from A1 in Oakville put in a new capacitor, fired it up and blew the cap off the compressor. This cost me $850 while under Lennox's "Limited" warranty...sure is limited. So, 2 weeks later it stops working again. This time I'm told by the same tech that the evaporator is defective and that's probably why the compressor went. In my opinion, very poor service from A1, very poor parts quality and very poor warranty coverage. Beware!
Member
Jan 6, 2008
216 posts
66 upvotes
ontario
luck11 wrote:
Sep 8th, 2010 1:17 pm
Hi. I have a Rheem Classic 90 Plus Series Contour Furnace, model RGFD - 10EZCMS, and the blower motor will not run. If the thermostat is set to AC, the A/C unit outside will turn on but no blower on the furnace. If on HEAT, the gas ignites, but no blower. FAN ON, no blower. I removed the cover and the display on the control board flashes 81, 68, 81, 68 then solid F for about 4 seconds then continues flashing just 81 over and over. The back panel lists a bunch of codes, and it seems code "68" under "ICM Feed-back signal" means "no signal". Code 81 is listed under "thermistors" and means "return air sensor - out of range. "F" means "System Fan - no heat or cool cycle - fan on", which is correct because I had the thermostat set to FAN ON at the time.

Anyone have any idea what I am dealing with here? Is my blower motor shot?

Thx.

Well, it turns out it was the blower motor. However, I now notice that my blower motor is running at a low speed all the time, even though I don't have the FAN ON. In fact, I turn everything off at my thermostat controls and it still runs at low speed.

Any advice would be appreciated.
Deal Addict
Dec 8, 2009
1208 posts
66 upvotes
luck11 wrote:
Sep 19th, 2010 8:17 am
Well, it turns out it was the blower motor. However, I now notice that my blower motor is running at a low speed all the time, even though I don't have the FAN ON. In fact, I turn everything off at my thermostat controls and it still runs at low speed.

Any advice would be appreciated.

the board is fried if I was to guess as it defaults the blower to the on position in a lot of models.
Usually there's a reason a company is "cheap". Value and cheap are different. Value means best product/service for the dollar spent. Cheap is just that. Cheap.
Deal Addict
Dec 8, 2009
1208 posts
66 upvotes
Burljoe wrote:
Sep 18th, 2010 11:43 pm
I had this unit installed just over 2 years ago. The unit stopped working recently so the technician from A1 in Oakville put in a new capacitor, fired it up and blew the cap off the compressor. This cost me $850 while under Lennox's "Limited" warranty...sure is limited. So, 2 weeks later it stops working again. This time I'm told by the same tech that the evaporator is defective and that's probably why the compressor went. In my opinion, very poor service from A1, very poor parts quality and very poor warranty coverage. Beware!

How did you pay $850 under warranty? Sounds like you got Lennox 10yr parts warranty and a 1 yr labour and they screwed you on the labour costs to install the warrantied parts.

If this IS the case then this is a great case to show why Nighthawk and I always ALWAYS recommend a matching 10yr parts and labour warranty becuase it protects YOU after the purchase. I bet you could have gotten a much nicer unit for an additional $850 which would have gotten you a 10yr warranty, most likely an XC14 would have been less than $850 more and should come with a 10/10 warranty.

Sucks to get hit with that kind of bill though on a 2yr old unit.
Usually there's a reason a company is "cheap". Value and cheap are different. Value means best product/service for the dollar spent. Cheap is just that. Cheap.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jul 13, 2010
1869 posts
315 upvotes
Ottawa
I have some quotes in and would like opinions on pros and cons to the models. I am initially impressed with the Colman as I was told it is the same as the York and comes in about $1300 less. I also like a modulating furnace as I live in a 3 story house and was told that a modulating furnace will help even out the temperature difference between the floors compared to the current furnace. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

thanks

Trane XV95 (95%)2 stage
years parts and labour, lifetime on heat exchangers
$4200


Bryant 95S 10 (95%)
years on parts and labour
$4150

York 9.S Latitude (95%) 5 years on part and lifetime on heat exchanger
10 years parts and labour
$3772

York LX series (96%) 2 stage DC fan
10 years parts and labour
$5636

York Affinity (97.5%) modulating
10 years parts and labour
$5964

Colman 9.M Echelon modulating
10 years on parts and labour, lifetime on heat exchanger
$4691
Sr. Member
Dec 29, 2009
520 posts
114 upvotes
The Dad of a friend of mine does commercial HVAC. He won't do the installation of the furnace but I can buy one from him at cost. Assuming I get the furnace through him, what would it likely cost to install it?
Deal Addict
Dec 8, 2009
1208 posts
66 upvotes
iherald wrote:
Sep 23rd, 2010 3:38 pm
The Dad of a friend of mine does commercial HVAC. He won't do the installation of the furnace but I can buy one from him at cost. Assuming I get the furnace through him, what would it likely cost to install it?

the same as buying from a business give or take and you'll have no warranty. thats only IF a contractor will even touch the furnace. I know our company won't install someone else's furnace due to the liability alone.
Usually there's a reason a company is "cheap". Value and cheap are different. Value means best product/service for the dollar spent. Cheap is just that. Cheap.
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
148 upvotes
iherald wrote:
Sep 23rd, 2010 3:38 pm
The Dad of a friend of mine does commercial HVAC. He won't do the installation of the furnace but I can buy one from him at cost. Assuming I get the furnace through him, what would it likely cost to install it?

Does this not tell you something when he won't even do the install?

Typically the type of "business" that would be willing to touch this is the type of business you should likely be runnign away from. No one will want to warranty it, the channel it's coming through assures me it's not a premium brand of any kind. Likely a goodman or a keeprite, or a Gibson, or possibly even worse.

You'll be loosing out on many factory rebates on top of warranty, and also some additional rebates through the OPA.
Newbie
Sep 23, 2010
6 posts
London
I've been hearing about this product and I would like to know if anyone has any experience with it. I know it's not HVAC but it all ties together. For a proper energy efficient home you need 1. Air Tightness, 2. A proper HVAC (air flow) and 3. Good insulation. E-RIM is claiming they can improve your homes overall efficiency by 14%. Thoughts?
Newbie
Sep 23, 2010
6 posts
London
How is that SPAM? I asked a question concerning a product that has a lot to do with air flow in a home. Maybe this isn't the best thread but I don't see how that's SPAM. Are we not supposed to bring up name brands here? Should I say that there is a rimboard product that is being advertised as helping the overall efficiency of a home that is closely related to air tightness and your HVAc system...since it all ties into one another and it has a name that I am not allowed to say?

Whatever...
Deal Expert
User avatar
May 10, 2005
33798 posts
7746 upvotes
Ottawa
NorthernSails wrote:
Sep 24th, 2010 9:15 am
I've been hearing about this product and I would like to know if anyone has any experience with it. I know it's not HVAC but it all ties together. For a proper energy efficient home you need 1. Air Tightness, 2. A proper HVAC (air flow) and 3. Good insulation. E-RIM is claiming they can improve your homes overall efficiency by 14%. Thoughts?
bririp wrote:
Sep 24th, 2010 9:38 am
Spam??
NorthernSails wrote:
Sep 24th, 2010 3:10 pm
How is that SPAM? I asked a question concerning a product that has a lot to do with air flow in a home. Maybe this isn't the best thread but I don't see how that's SPAM. Are we not supposed to bring up name brands here? Should I say that there is a rimboard product that is being advertised as helping the overall efficiency of a home that is closely related to air tightness and your HVAc system...since it all ties into one another and it has a name that I am not allowed to say?

Whatever...
Good that you defend your position and bring a new product to the attention of people looking for efficiency. Perhaps if you provided some information, a website or something other than the way you came on?
Newbie
Jul 25, 2009
99 posts
2 upvotes
Hope I can post this here, it's regarding air quality.

After we got our ducts cleaned we noticed a strange smell, long story short. When they showed me the dirt that was being collected in the furnace I remembered this strong smell, hard to describe it, a very dusty smell, not mold but a strong odor was present. I didn't think much since they were still cleaning but soon afterwards we started noticing this smell in the house. It's not in the basement nor in the furnace itself, I did a lot of nosing around (literally) and seemed to narrow it down to the return air vents

Basically with the system off the smell rises through only the return air vents not the blower vents so hopefully that's narrowing it out, I know part of the basement is finished and perhaps they weren't able to vacuum enough of the return ducts after making the holes or maybe they just missed a spot, not sure...

The duct cleaning owner says to try getting a dehumidifer to see if that helps, just we have been here over a year and never had this problem until the cleaning. However the vents were never cleaned (~13 years) so not sure if that's a factor. The smell definitely varies from day to day. I wish I could go through each of the vents and wipe them down physically not just pressured air.

Are there any more intensive duct cleaning methods that do this type of thing? Any suggestions? It's really getting us down...
Member
User avatar
Dec 6, 2009
232 posts
42 upvotes
Ottawa
When it comes to Residential Venting systems.. they are all unique. Weird smells after the job indicates that something was moved or pushed somewhere it shouldn't be.

Does anybody here realize professional Duct cleaning ranges from $ 400.00 - $ 1000.00 on standard properties.. The reason is because it takes time to be thorough, even when using the best equipment out there.

If your not gonna spend the money to do it right.. you might as well not spend it at all.. it would be a waste. You will only get the results by removing everything in the system. If you leave pockets of debris, it will recontaminate the system in no time. Just Remember with Venting systems everything goes in a circle.. C.A.R.'s bring air to the furnace, and Hot Air's exhaust it into the home. Missing or Hiding Debris in HVAC systems is easy and unfortunately quite common.

Wherever there is a vent in your home.. it must make it's way back to the furnace area to be connected to the air handling system.. imagine the octopus of pipes and runs hidden behind the walls of your house.

Maybe something fell on the Heat X.. and it's creating a weird melting/burning smell.. I have worked in the industry, this turned out to be the case sometimes.

Usually it's something that hasn't been moved in the system for years.. and then aggitated.. like a slice of pizza or a sandwhich, it has happened before, trust me!

If you used a Mickey Mouse Duct Cleaner.. good luck.. you probably won't get further than the dehumidifier recommendation. The Pro's usually guarantee the work and give no hassles to come back and fix the problem.. regardless of what it is or turns out to be. ;)
Newbie
Jul 25, 2009
99 posts
2 upvotes
I tried to go with a decent company, one who was recommended by the furnace company, price was around $300. They seemed professional they cleaned out the furnace motor/ac coil as well and seem to want to help, they are offering to come again and take a look, it's going to be hard to convince them something smells if they can't smell it that particular day so hopefully it will be like that.

The way they cleaned it was basically compressed air from the vents down to the main plenum which then they made holes and vacuumed the ducts in different holes.. Maybe in my situation because it wasn't cleaned in so long I needed a little more work? I read something about a fogging system that is suppose to disinfect everything.

I made a larger access holes in the return duct to help try to smell my way to the affected area. Basically the smell occurs with the system off, and hitting the return vent on the main floor, but mostly the second floor master bedroom as if the smell wants to rise. If I turn it on it would circulate that smell throughout the house. I would like to take care of this before winter as the heater will be on all winter.

I'm all up for suggestions on how to handle this.

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