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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Nov 21, 2009
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Ottawa
bririp wrote:
Jun 1st, 2011 6:57 am
The ideal solution now days is to purchase a two stage unit. If on the highest load days you need a 3-ton, it will operate at approximately 50% capacity on first stage and 100% on second...best of both worlds!

I agreed: if your furnace is 2 stage with brushless DC blower motor (aka variable speed), then a 2-stage air conditioner is a must on these situations. If your furnace isn't like I described, then I would seriously think of upgrading to that, or having the blower motor replaced with one (there are replacement motors that do this very well). The advantages are not only in added comfort and humidity levels, but in energy savings too. By far, the greatest payback is with a brushless DC motor: the cost of electricity coupled with the low operating costs of the motor far exceed the energy savings from any other upgrade you can do to your home HVAC system. In fact, even if you have a relatively new furnace, the savings will exceed any kind of guaranteed return on investment available today (GICs, T-bills, etc...).
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Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
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148 upvotes
bririp wrote:
Jun 1st, 2011 6:57 am
The ideal solution now days is to purchase a two stage unit. If on the highest load days you need a 3-ton, it will operate at approximately 50% capacity on first stage and 100% on second...best of both worlds!

Start a group buy. Can't wait to see how many RFD member jump on that!

If we're going to open that can of "worms". Throw some numbers at these people as to the costs.
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Nov 21, 2009
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nighthawk26 wrote:
Jun 1st, 2011 9:38 am
Start a group buy. Can't wait to see how many RFD member jump on that!

If we're going to open that can of "worms". Throw some numbers at these people as to the costs.

True: the price tag of 2-stage air conditioners does in fact scare most people away. The ONLY other solution that is guaranteed to work, is to have a certified heat gain calculation performed. Then you can use a single stage air conditioner, along with a variable speed blower-equipped air handler/furnace that allows integration of a dehumidistat to reduce the airflow when air conditioning with high humidity loads.
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Need quick advice? Email me at RFDfanOttawa@gmail.com
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Mar 12, 2008
1605 posts
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Toronto
so i am looking for someone to provide me a quote on putting in some new duct work. i know its not cheap/ easy but would still like to get an estimate.

if you look at my previous pots in this thread id like to get my cold air return redone .

currently its a single large duct on the main floor. id like to add one upstairs and downstairs.

the heating ducts seem to be fine just need work done on the returns.

any companies out there that do good work? also what would this estimate cost?

last question if the gov reinstates the grants for home reno would redoing the vents get any sort of grant?
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Nov 28, 2007
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Mississauga
Hopefully somebody can help me with this.

For all of yesterday, last night, and today, we have set our thermostat to about 23 degrees. Starting from yesterday, it has been at ~26, and has not gone down. Because of this, the AC is on all the time, even to this point =\ We have never had this problem before, even on the hottest of days.

What I would like to know is, what should we do about this? I am thinking of calling in a technician to have a look at our system; perhaps the coils need to be cleaned, or maybe we need to add more freon? Our house is approximately 11 years old, and we have had our central AC system since the house was built.

Also, we have not had a duct cleaning service done for several years now, but the air flow is not the problem, it's just that the air is not very cold.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Deal Fanatic
Sep 5, 2002
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Generally where are the temperature sensors placed in your house, so that the A/C can tell what temperature the house is?

I spent some time in Europe and they have thermostats in every room, but we dont have this in Canada right?

So how does the A/C know what the temperature is in each room, and if you only want it in some rooms, LOL? Or do the vents just blow it everywhere...

Do new homes have this feature?
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Oct 26, 2008
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I can feel vibrations from my neighbor's AC unit all the way to my bedroom which is on the 2nd floor. His unit sits on the ground and inbetween our houses. Are there any products out there like a rubber mat made to absorb vibrations? If so, do these type of mats work well?
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Dec 17, 2008
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Ontario
JohnB wrote:
Jun 1st, 2011 2:23 pm
Generally where are the temperature sensors placed in your house, so that the A/C can tell what temperature the house is?

most common is living room/hallway

I spent some time in Europe and they have thermostats in every room, but we dont have this in Canada right?

yes we do, it's called zoning

So how does the A/C know what the temperature is in each room, and if you only want it in some rooms, LOL? Or do the vents just blow it everywhere...

it does not know the temperature in each room, you can close the vents manualy

Do new homes have this feature?

normally don't, but you can always pay extra and get it installed
.
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Dec 17, 2008
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crono06 wrote:
Jun 1st, 2011 1:26 pm
Hopefully somebody can help me with this.

For all of yesterday, last night, and today, we have set our thermostat to about 23 degrees. Starting from yesterday, it has been at ~26, and has not gone down. Because of this, the AC is on all the time, even to this point =\ We have never had this problem before, even on the hottest of days.

What I would like to know is, what should we do about this? I am thinking of calling in a technician to have a look at our system; perhaps the coils need to be cleaned, or maybe we need to add more freon? Our house is approximately 11 years old, and we have had our central AC system since the house was built.

Also, we have not had a duct cleaning service done for several years now, but the air flow is not the problem, it's just that the air is not very cold.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

That is your best option, unless you have the equipment to diagnose the system
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Nov 28, 2007
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shoppingkart wrote:
Jun 1st, 2011 6:07 pm
That is your best option, unless you have the equipment to diagnose the system

Is there anybody/company that anybody can recommend?
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Sep 1, 2007
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OK there's been a not-so-fun development, so I'm now looking for alternatives to my first choice in my 800 square foot upper floor.

First Choice:

[INDENT]A 1-ton Mitsubishi MSZ-FE12NA because it works to -25C and includes the required Winter condensation kit.

Inside the house the south wall is the best spot to mount the unit. (Reason: Electical panel is there, and airflow).

Outside the house the south and west walls are the worst spot (Reason: curb appeal. Those units are small compared to regular A/C but they are still big)

So we decided to run the copper lines that connect the indoor and outdoor units under the soffit all the way around from the south side to the north side where the outdoor unit will not be visible. The length to run the copper lines is 100 feet.

Now I'm told that there is an issue. The issue is that the copper lines that connect the indoor and outdoor units have to be 20m (65') in length or less for the 1-ton unit. If I spend extra on a 1 1/2 ton unit (more than I need inside) then there is no problem with the length of 100 feet. [/INDENT]

Why the issue with one and not the other?

Alternatives: If I am stuck with a 1.5 ton unit, then I'm open to other manufacturers. Suggestions appreciated.
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Jul 5, 2003
699 posts
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Mississauga
We need to replace our central A/C and I am not sure what to look for.

Our house is about 2300 sq ft. The technician that came to diagnose our A/C recommended that we replace it with an 2.5 tons American Standard 13 SEER unit. However, he also mentioned that we would qualify for the OPA Heating and Cooling rebate if we replace it with a unit with at least 14.5 SEER. I understand that the higher the SEER, the more energy efficient and quiet is the unit. However, my question is, is it worth it? Our furnace is about 10 years old (not sure if that is relevant to our decision making).

So, what is the size and brand of central A/C that we should get?

TIA.
Member
Apr 23, 2009
250 posts
33 upvotes
Toronto
Genia11 wrote:
Jun 2nd, 2011 3:32 pm
We need to replace our central A/C and I am not sure what to look for.

Our house is about 2300 sq ft. The technician that came to diagnose our A/C recommended that we replace it with an 2.5 tons American Standard 13 SEER unit. However, he also mentioned that we would qualify for the OPA Heating and Cooling rebate if we replace it with a unit with at least 14.5 SEER. I understand that the higher the SEER, the more energy efficient and quiet is the unit. However, my question is, is it worth it? Our furnace is about 10 years old (not sure if that is relevant to our decision making).

So, what is the size and brand of central A/C that we should get?

TIA.

I would take the 14.5 SEER unit. I have chosen that myself. The difference in price is around $300 to $400.00 dollars ( When I was getting my quote before), your dealer may be different, compared to the 13 SEER unit. Since the OPA rebate is $250.00, your net cost for the 14.5 SEER is $50.00 to $150.00. To me it is worth the extra money for a better unit, you are doing your part to save our planet too.

You have to do some reading in this thread, there is plenty recommendation here as to what brand to buy.
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May 6, 2007
1340 posts
294 upvotes
Ottawa, On
We just got three quotes on 2 tone 13 seer AC units. All three came in at ~$2500 +HST and we had good recommendations for all three companies so really I think its going to come down to the model they're installing

1) First quote was for a Bryant 113A, or a 123A for +$300. 10 Year Parts and 1 Year Labor. The person who gave us the quote explained that the advantage 123A is that is has a HI/LO sensor for the compressor, which should theoreticlly extend the life of the compressor. As well, it has some extra insulation which is meant to reduce noise.

2) Next was for a Lennox 13 SEER (to be honest I just realized that they didn't give us the exact model number). It also has a 10 year parts and 1 year labor warranty.

3) The last one was a Trane XR13-410A. IT has a 10 ear warrany for both parts and labor.

Just based on my gut feeling I'm leaing towards the Trane but I thought I'd see what you guys thought?

Thanks,
David

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