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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Member
User avatar
Dec 6, 2009
232 posts
41 upvotes
Ottawa
dp18 wrote:
Jul 25th, 2011 4:37 pm
is there something i can buy to measure air pressure?
what about the returns? one pulls strong, one is decent, the other 2 are barely doing anything?
There is a tool called a Air Flow CFM Meter. It's measures the amount of cubic feet per minute moved. I don't think it would be wise to buy one for a DYI checkup. For the cold air returns, the one that pulls really strong is more than likely the closest to the furnace. The other two barely doing anything.. do they happen to be on the second floor? or far away from the furnace?

There is also the possibility of them being disconnected or very leaky ( which is quite common ). Having a mini windstorm under the drywall in your basement however, is not. This tells me you more than likely have had a pipe disconnect under there. Your options here.. take down the basement ceiling. And while your at it.. seal all of the exposed ductwork (now that you can see it) with Metal Tape. Re-finish the ceiling. You should also consider having the Air Ducts done while the ducts are exposed. You'll get a more through cleaning ;) However, that really depends on who you hire. Problem Solved?


gwan wrote:
Jul 25th, 2011 5:13 pm
my air conditioning/CA unit is 1983 and it's one of those big green square unit..

right now i have no monies to replace it but do you think it's worth borrowing $2400 to install a new one or just wait until next year?

am i going to save a substantial amount of money every month by getting a new high efficiency CA unit?
If the green beast is still running.. let 'er go. Cause yer broke. If it's currently broken, I would replace it with a new unit. That's if you want A/C for the rest of the summer. You will definitely save money with a new unit over the green beast. A DC fan motor would also save alot in regards to operating costs.

The ECO energy program is back too! til March 31st 2012. You can get government rebates of up to $250.00 upon the purchase of a new A/C. You also can get up to $400.00 from the Ontario power authority for putting that A/C in. Not to mention the countless other rebates available for other areas of the home. It's definitely worth looking to. ;)
Jr. Member
Nov 4, 2007
183 posts
4 upvotes
Holland Landing
nighthawk26 wrote:
Jul 20th, 2011 5:20 pm
You know your return air vents? Not registers that give heat and cool... the ones on the wall sometimes higher or lower. In the basement they all tie into one main line that is the return air for the furnace. Make sure you have one of these lines run from that to the ground level in the basement. Not sure how else to describe it. Hope it made some sense.

Thanks, I think I know what you mean. I'll try that.

Thanks :)
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1074 posts
122 upvotes
Markham
dp18 wrote:
Jul 25th, 2011 4:37 pm
is there something i can buy to measure air pressure?
what about the returns? one pulls strong, one is decent, the other 2 are barely doing anything?

We use an anamometer which measures air speed, and can also calculate air flow, velocity, temperature etc. It is an expensive tool and without having your plans to see how much air flow is designed for the different outlets it may not be worth it.

For return air, use a regular piece of paper towel. Generally if it hold the paper up without your help, the return is pulling strong enough.
Providing Customers with the highest quality Home Comfort Products, and service! http://www.homestars.com/companies/2781 ... ly-med-air
Member
Sep 23, 2010
246 posts
32 upvotes
pfbmgd wrote:
Jul 25th, 2011 9:53 pm
I looked around quickly when I got home .Couldn`t find anything like you describe .Hopefully I get home before dark tomorrow to get a better look .

If you can't find one fairly easily, your set-up might not have one. Shoppingkart above mentions that these were not standard when your unit was put in. That's all the 'intelligence' I have on this topic, sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Deal Addict
Feb 7, 2005
3435 posts
469 upvotes
QuestForKnowledge wrote:
Jul 26th, 2011 9:48 am
If you can't find one fairly easily, your set-up might not have one. Shoppingkart above mentions that these were not standard when your unit was put in. That's all the 'intelligence' I have on this topic, sorry I couldn't be of more help.

Hey thanks for the advice .I couldn`t find a box .I have a Sears and another contractor coming over to give me a price on a new unit .
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
148 upvotes
pfbmgd wrote:
Jul 26th, 2011 2:13 pm
Hey thanks for the advice .I couldn`t find a box .I have a Sears and another contractor coming over to give me a price on a new unit .

Run away from Sears. You'll see the pricing on your own, but what you won't see (literally) is who is doing the install. They use a slew of contractors to do their jobs. Gauging quality of work (which is often less than amazing) is impossible. That said, the price will probably turn you away first. Also, their salespeople... FEW I've come across are straight forward. Do not let anyone tell you a Kenmore is a Carrier becasue thats just a lie. It's keeprite.
Newbie
Sep 1, 2009
31 posts
1 upvote
I'm trying to figure out the proper way to set the settings for this programmable thermostat. I have my temperatures programmed, but am not sure if I should be on Auto/Auto, Cool/Auto or what. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
148 upvotes
mgnr wrote:
Jul 29th, 2011 4:44 pm
I'm trying to figure out the proper way to set the settings for this programmable thermostat. I have my temperatures programmed, but am not sure if I should be on Auto/Auto, Cool/Auto or what. Any assistance would be appreciated.

Auto just means the fan only comes on when cooling mode. On for that setting means the can is always on, yet when the setpoint for AC is reached the AC will kick on too. Many furnaces, especially variable speed units will then run at a lower fan speed.
Member
Mar 25, 2010
219 posts
85 upvotes
Toronto
I've heard a lot about TRANE but very little about EVEREST. I don't have all the specs but was quoted for around the same price I can get a 13 seer trane or a 14.5 seer everest, or I can upgrade to a 14.5 seer trane for an additional 400. any recommendations. thanks.
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
148 upvotes
MrLoopy99 wrote:
Jul 29th, 2011 9:32 pm
I've heard a lot about TRANE but very little about EVEREST. I don't have all the specs but was quoted for around the same price I can get a 13 seer trane or a 14.5 seer everest, or I can upgrade to a 14.5 seer trane for an additional 400. any recommendations. thanks.

Everest = junk. I'd buy a Keeprite or a goodman and even a payne before that. Thats saying a lot.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1074 posts
122 upvotes
Markham
nighthawk26 wrote:
Jul 30th, 2011 3:03 pm
Everest = junk. I'd buy a Keeprite or a goodman and even a payne before that. Thats saying a lot.
everest is rebranded goodman. Same exact product, just different colour and badge. If I purchase enough I can get it called "stouffville home and comfort" and make it pink. If you like goodman, you like everest, if you dont, you dont. I would suggest considering american standard products.
Providing Customers with the highest quality Home Comfort Products, and service! http://www.homestars.com/companies/2781 ... ly-med-air
Sr. Member
User avatar
Jan 4, 2009
674 posts
23 upvotes
Mississauga
I am in the market for a new furnace in my house, after my 22 year old Carrier died on me. I live in an apprx 1500sq^2 house and looking for a reliable brand (never had to buy a single furnace in my life).

So, what would you guys recommend to be a good furnace company ? I am looking for something non expensive (maybe 2k-3k tops).

thanks
Newbie
Feb 28, 2010
21 posts
I'm still trying to learn to live with my newish York YP9C modulating furnace (with a YCJF ac) has a control board jumper for 3 fan speed settings of Low, Med, High.

The installers manual doesn't make it clear to me what aspects of the fan speed this jumper controls. What I'm wondering is does it
a) always define the highest speed that the fan will run at, when it's in HEATING or COOLING or OFF mode?
or
b) does it only effect the fan speed if I have the thermostat control set to FAN (vs AUTO) ... but when the control board actually needs to operate the FAN for HEATING or COOLING, it will somehow override this jumper setting by itself?
or
c) other possibilities I haven't thought of.

An extension to this question (... and probably my real question ...) is what some considerations for deciding which of these 3 FAN speed settings is "best" in a given house? Thanks in advance for comments.
Jr. Member
Aug 31, 2006
144 posts
9 upvotes
Hi Brian,

This thread is super helpful and I hope you can help me with some advice.

My wife and I are planning on building a new home. As a part of our current pricing process we are looking at 2 A/C installs (2 separate furnaces).

With the builder they can do full A/C install or just rough in (basement not planning on being developed).

My question is how much money (if any) would I save by having the builder "rough-in" A/C and then hiring an installer to put in A/C after I take possession or just have the builder do it all.

The price I am being quoted is approximately $5500 for one AC unit (Trane 15 SEER). Just to do "rough in" would be $1500 for one unit.

If there any saving on getting "rough-in" done in advance? Do you recommend we get the rough in done in advance?

Thanks for your time and I hope you can help me decide.

Thanks,

negoo
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1074 posts
122 upvotes
Markham
if the basement isn't getting finished, don't waste your money. That is a lot of money to rough it in and you won't save $1500 because it is roughed in. Where is the house located? PM with some details and I can help you out.
Providing Customers with the highest quality Home Comfort Products, and service! http://www.homestars.com/companies/2781 ... ly-med-air

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