I have a large cold air intake in my living room where I want to put my TV.
Is it a bad idea to block the hole with my TV?
Thanks.
Is it a bad idea to block the hole with my TV?
Thanks.
Oct 28th, 2009 10:57 pm
Oct 28th, 2009 11:24 pm
Not really specific to his question. He is talking OPA, you are talking NRCan. OPA allows you to use the air handler to increase SEER for rebate purposes while NRCan as you mentioned does not. That said, Tier 2 for OPA is 15 SEER while NRcan is 14.5 Seer.JWL wrote: ↑That is correct.
From: http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/residential/pers ... tr=4#money
Currently, some manufacturers match their low SEER air conditioner/air-source heat pump coil packages with one of their brushless DC motor-equipped furnaces (i.e. blowers) as a method to reduce the power consumption requirement for ENERGY STAR compliance and labelling. However, this arrangement is not accepted under the ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes program because NRCan already provides separate grants for furnaces that have an energy-efficient brushless DC motor.
Did your installer make any statements or commitments that it would qualify for those rebates?
Oct 28th, 2009 11:29 pm
Thanks nighthawk - any opinions on the unit? Would it be worth upgrading when I move in, or should it suffice for the next 10 years or so?nighthawk26 wrote: ↑Good old builders special.
Finding details on these things is next to impossible unless you know where to look. if you go to Carrier.com then select residential HVAC, then furnaces and models, then look up BASE models, then you have to do a search for the specifc model number, THEN you'll find the link.
All that said, here it is.
http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/gr ... 504-25.pdf
Oct 29th, 2009 12:22 am
Oct 29th, 2009 10:17 am
Great - thanks! We already went with a VANee 90H Exhaust Ducted HRV, but I was hoping to get the media filter (mechanical air cleaner, correct?) installed once we moved in.nighthawk26 wrote: ↑no no.... keep it. If you have the option to add a media air filter now though i'd consider that, and for sure consider an HRV after you've moved in.
Oct 29th, 2009 11:20 am
Just make sure there is a 7" or more space between the return and the furnace then. Will save you money from having to make ductwork changes to add it in later.CorradoGuy wrote: ↑Great - thanks! We already went with a VANee 90H Exhaust Ducted HRV, but I was hoping to get the media filter (mechanical air cleaner, correct?) installed once we moved in.
Oct 29th, 2009 1:13 pm
Nov 2nd, 2009 11:34 am
Nov 2nd, 2009 4:46 pm
Similar, possibly stupid question from me:
Nov 2nd, 2009 6:27 pm
Nov 2nd, 2009 6:48 pm
Nov 2nd, 2009 8:38 pm
Nov 2nd, 2009 10:28 pm
Nov 3rd, 2009 12:44 am
Page 8/9 of their brochure shows a nice coaxial direct vent/intake setup with a single pipe. Unfortunately, diagram #3 also shows a single wall install that uses in-room air, so you'll need to ask your installer/builder.
Nov 3rd, 2009 12:48 am
According to this article, recommended louver area is 1sq in / 2000 btu/hr.Tiberius wrote: ↑I'm curious about the air intake and exhaust requirements of a furnace. The furnance is question is in a 2 year old home, 91% efficiency and gas powered.
It has been built into a small "closet" with 2 sliding doors with the water heater in a finished basement. I have noticed that when the furnace is running, there is a pipe at the side of the house that blows warm air outside. I'm guessing this is the exhaust from the furnace from the combustion process (to get any possible harmful gases/co2/etc out of the house). Correct?
Also, our home inspector mentioned that we should provide a means for more airflow into the "closet" - either by installing a louvred door, or cutting a hole in the wall and putting a vent grate over it (for now, we leave a sliding door open a bit).
I have noticed that there is a round 8 inch approx duct that opens into the furnance closet above the doors (very much out of sight and the home inspector did not see it). When the furnace is running (the fan is running), air is flowing into the closet through this duct. I'm wondering if this duct is in place specifically to provide air intake for the furnace and thus we don't need to worry about the louvred door or cutting a hole in the wall? A cold air return duct would not open up into the room - but would feed right back into the furnace - correct? Maybe when they finished the basement they disconnected one of the cold air return ducts for this very purpose?? Would this make sense? I don't believe this air is sourced from outside (it's not cold enough) but I'm not sure where it is coming from in the house yet.
Any clarifications about the pipe expelling warm air outside the house, the 8" duct with air flowing into the furnace "closet" , or the general requirements and expected air venting/flow are appreciated.
Thanks!
Nov 4th, 2009 9:02 am
Nov 6th, 2009 10:23 am
Nov 6th, 2009 10:34 am
Nov 6th, 2009 4:10 pm
Nov 6th, 2009 5:42 pm
I HIGHLY doubt there is a need for a 2000CFM blower, and I also doubt the existing ductwork would handle that in a proper manner.jsparky wrote: ↑Im looking for some honest feeback on either the G71P or York YP9C.
I've been looking at these two units want to pull the trigger to purchase. Both units are priced within a hundred dollars of each other? What unit would you pick?
I've heard that the York has an Air Switch problem? Can anyone comment.
One installer suggested i go with a the 2000 CFM blower or the 1600 CFM blower for my 3000 sq ft house as we have a few rooms in the upstairs that have poor flow. Is this recommended with the new modulating furnaces? Can you oversize the blower motor without changing the ducts? What would be the possible negative impacts? what is the recommended blower size? for the 90,000 BTU unit
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