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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Jr. Member
Mar 8, 2006
149 posts
1 upvote
I have a large cold air intake in my living room where I want to put my TV.
Is it a bad idea to block the hole with my TV?
Thanks.
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
149 upvotes
JWL wrote: That is correct.

From: http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/residential/pers ... tr=4#money
Currently, some manufacturers match their low SEER air conditioner/air-source heat pump coil packages with one of their brushless DC motor-equipped furnaces (i.e. blowers) as a method to reduce the power consumption requirement for ENERGY STAR compliance and labelling. However, this arrangement is not accepted under the ecoENERGY Retrofit – Homes program because NRCan already provides separate grants for furnaces that have an energy-efficient brushless DC motor.

Did your installer make any statements or commitments that it would qualify for those rebates?
Not really specific to his question. He is talking OPA, you are talking NRCan. OPA allows you to use the air handler to increase SEER for rebate purposes while NRCan as you mentioned does not. That said, Tier 2 for OPA is 15 SEER while NRcan is 14.5 Seer.

A Lennox XC14 with an Aspen coil can get over 14.5 satisfying NRcan so he should get the $500 no problem. It obviously also qualifies for Tier 1 OPA which he did get of $250. If the paperwork was not filed indicating both went in together then it will not show over 15 SEER. As he only got $250, I suspect the AC was filed as a single standalone unit using ITS reference number not the combo air handler/AC reference number.
Jr. Member
Nov 22, 2005
159 posts
11 upvotes
nighthawk26 wrote: Good old builders special.

Finding details on these things is next to impossible unless you know where to look. if you go to Carrier.com then select residential HVAC, then furnaces and models, then look up BASE models, then you have to do a search for the specifc model number, THEN you'll find the link.

All that said, here it is.

http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/gr ... 504-25.pdf
Thanks nighthawk - any opinions on the unit? Would it be worth upgrading when I move in, or should it suffice for the next 10 years or so?
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
149 upvotes
no no.... keep it. If you have the option to add a media air filter now though i'd consider that, and for sure consider an HRV after you've moved in.
Jr. Member
Nov 22, 2005
159 posts
11 upvotes
nighthawk26 wrote: no no.... keep it. If you have the option to add a media air filter now though i'd consider that, and for sure consider an HRV after you've moved in.
Great - thanks! We already went with a VANee 90H Exhaust Ducted HRV, but I was hoping to get the media filter (mechanical air cleaner, correct?) installed once we moved in.
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
149 upvotes
CorradoGuy wrote: Great - thanks! We already went with a VANee 90H Exhaust Ducted HRV, but I was hoping to get the media filter (mechanical air cleaner, correct?) installed once we moved in.
Just make sure there is a 7" or more space between the return and the furnace then. Will save you money from having to make ductwork changes to add it in later.
Newbie
Oct 28, 2009
4 posts
london, ontario
Hello, I am looking at having my mid-eff furnace replaced with either a Trane XV95, Lennox G61, or a Lennox G71. I have had 3 est, done. The first guy from a Trane dealer was completely useless. He gave me the quote written on the edges of the XV95 brochure. I do however like the Trane product. His price was $4500+gst. The Lennox dealer was by far the best, most helpful quote of the 3. However, his prices seem outrageous. Maybe someone here can help me out. For the G61 installed with a new aircleaner, humidifier, liner, and duct cleaning total was $7329. The G71 was $8129. I have an older Trane A/C unit 2003 11 seer. The 3rd quote was a RUUD unit of the same level, $4000. Can anyone give me their reccommendations on prices and units. We live in the London area in a 100 yr old home with an addition. Total sq footage 2750.
Member
Apr 6, 2004
476 posts
66 upvotes
I asked this in an old thread before, but maybe I'll have better luck getting some answers here. I have a new house closing soon and would like to know from some experienced guys:

1) ERV vs HRV. This question has been asked several times but I haven't seen a clear answer of what's recommended for the GTA. From the Vanee website the HRV has 5yr warranty on components and lifetime on the core, while the ERV has 5yr on both the components and core. Does that mean that ERV is more likely to fail? Given the extra cost of ERV, would it be better to get a separate dehumidifier instead (ie. what are advantages/disadvantages of ERV vs HRV + dehumidifier?)

2) Built in (whole house) dehumidifier vs standalone. I've read that a standalone dehumidifier can still work for the entire house since the forced air furnace circulates throughout the house anyways. Is there any real advantage to the significant extra cost of buying one that installs into the HVAC system compared to a direct drain one if space is not an issue? Some users seem to think that a dehumidifier is unnecessary if you have an air conditioner. Is this true (especially in newer, "tight" houses)?

3) Is a steam humidifier worth the extra cost? How big of an issue is bacteria growth on the moisture pad style? How do the two compare in terms of maintenance and failure rate (ie, is a steam system way more complex than a regular system that it is more likely to have problems in the long run?)


Getting this stuff done is a pretty big investment, so I'm hoping to do it right the first time! Thanks.
Member
Feb 9, 2004
288 posts
37 upvotes
jhyang23 wrote: I have a large cold air intake in my living room where I want to put my TV.
Is it a bad idea to block the hole with my TV?
Thanks.
Similar, possibly stupid question from me:
In my house (new construction) i have what seems to me to be a MASSIVE 8" cold air intake in the living area on the main floor. Basically it's a huge hole cut into the side of the house. Now, with it being almost winter it's just dumping cold air into the house.
How stupid would it be for me to loosely plug up the intake with some fiberglass insulation?
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Feb 15, 2005
6795 posts
2504 upvotes
YEG
That cold air intake is the combustion air makeup vent. If you have a direct vent furnace, there's nothing wrong with blocking it off (or so says my hvac guy). If you DON'T have a direct vent furnace, the negative pressure could cause your windows to buckle (unlikely) or could cause seepage of CO from your garage. CO seepage is never a good thing.
Member
Feb 9, 2004
288 posts
37 upvotes
Followup stupid question then:
How do i tell if I have a direct vent furnace?
BTW, it's a Viessman Vitodens 200 high-efficiency boiler system.....
Member
Dec 31, 2006
386 posts
12 upvotes
Greater Tarana Area
You also need combustion air for your water heater (if it isn't direct vent or tankless).

My builder put in two 8" vents in the outside wall, not sure what was the reasoning for the sizing...one for the furnace... one for the water heater?
Up to 100% OFF
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Feb 3, 2005
5295 posts
1266 upvotes
Georgetown
I'm curious about the air intake and exhaust requirements of a furnace. The furnance is question is in a 2 year old home, 91% efficiency and gas powered.

It has been built into a small "closet" with 2 sliding doors with the water heater in a finished basement. I have noticed that when the furnace is running, there is a pipe at the side of the house that blows warm air outside. I'm guessing this is the exhaust from the furnace from the combustion process (to get any possible harmful gases/co2/etc out of the house). Correct?

Also, our home inspector mentioned that we should provide a means for more airflow into the "closet" - either by installing a louvred door, or cutting a hole in the wall and putting a vent grate over it (for now, we leave a sliding door open a bit).

I have noticed that there is a round 8 inch approx duct that opens into the furnance closet above the doors (very much out of sight and the home inspector did not see it). When the furnace is running (the fan is running), air is flowing into the closet through this duct. I'm wondering if this duct is in place specifically to provide air intake for the furnace and thus we don't need to worry about the louvred door or cutting a hole in the wall? A cold air return duct would not open up into the room - but would feed right back into the furnace - correct? Maybe when they finished the basement they disconnected one of the cold air return ducts for this very purpose?? Would this make sense? I don't believe this air is sourced from outside (it's not cold enough) but I'm not sure where it is coming from in the house yet.

Any clarifications about the pipe expelling warm air outside the house, the 8" duct with air flowing into the furnace "closet" , or the general requirements and expected air venting/flow are appreciated.

Thanks!
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Feb 15, 2005
6795 posts
2504 upvotes
YEG
baxter wrote: Followup stupid question then:
How do i tell if I have a direct vent furnace?
BTW, it's a Viessman Vitodens 200 high-efficiency boiler system.....
Page 8/9 of their brochure shows a nice coaxial direct vent/intake setup with a single pipe. Unfortunately, diagram #3 also shows a single wall install that uses in-room air, so you'll need to ask your installer/builder.

Here's a good read from CMHC: http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/maho/y ... qu_004.cfm
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Feb 15, 2005
6795 posts
2504 upvotes
YEG
Tiberius wrote: I'm curious about the air intake and exhaust requirements of a furnace. The furnance is question is in a 2 year old home, 91% efficiency and gas powered.

It has been built into a small "closet" with 2 sliding doors with the water heater in a finished basement. I have noticed that when the furnace is running, there is a pipe at the side of the house that blows warm air outside. I'm guessing this is the exhaust from the furnace from the combustion process (to get any possible harmful gases/co2/etc out of the house). Correct?

Also, our home inspector mentioned that we should provide a means for more airflow into the "closet" - either by installing a louvred door, or cutting a hole in the wall and putting a vent grate over it (for now, we leave a sliding door open a bit).

I have noticed that there is a round 8 inch approx duct that opens into the furnance closet above the doors (very much out of sight and the home inspector did not see it). When the furnace is running (the fan is running), air is flowing into the closet through this duct. I'm wondering if this duct is in place specifically to provide air intake for the furnace and thus we don't need to worry about the louvred door or cutting a hole in the wall? A cold air return duct would not open up into the room - but would feed right back into the furnace - correct? Maybe when they finished the basement they disconnected one of the cold air return ducts for this very purpose?? Would this make sense? I don't believe this air is sourced from outside (it's not cold enough) but I'm not sure where it is coming from in the house yet.

Any clarifications about the pipe expelling warm air outside the house, the 8" duct with air flowing into the furnace "closet" , or the general requirements and expected air venting/flow are appreciated.

Thanks!
According to this article, recommended louver area is 1sq in / 2000 btu/hr.
http://www.calgaryfurnacerepair.com/Combustion_air.pdf

Be safe and oversize the louver.
Newbie
Jun 20, 2008
4 posts
Toronto
It's getting cold and our Eco energy audit is today..we've had about 6-8 quotes..I'm leaning towards..Rheem/Ruud, Carrier & American Standard..the GTA market seems to be Carrier heavy, my needs are quiet, access to any kind of dehumidification, (I have a Lennox 1.5 ton AC)and a half decent P&Labour warranty...Iv'e yet to get a quote from an AmerSt rep, but the Carrier/Ruud guys are pointing me towards the muti stage furnaces....there all coming in around 4-4400 range...
Newbie
Jun 17, 2008
88 posts
London, ON
We are very close to making a deal on a Bryan 355AAV with 165A a/c and the evolution thermostat. We are also looking at adding a HRV as we are fairly tight on air seeling for an older house and will be closing things in even more with better windows and such. we have two options available - 1 a byrant model HRVBBLHA which will connect to the evolution stat or a Lifebreath 155MAX which will need a separate controller. Which one would be better the price is essentially the same for both.
Member
Sep 7, 2008
280 posts
6 upvotes
Hello Everyone

Has anyone ever dealt with Metropolitan Heating & Air Conditioning Ltd
15-20 Venture Dr
Scarborough, ON M1B 3R7

and can share the experience? From the BBB, it is accredited business with A+ rating, but there are quite a few bad feedbacks on this company from the Homestars.

Thanks in advance...
JL
Newbie
Oct 22, 2004
82 posts
Im looking for some honest feeback on either the G71P or York YP9C.


I've been looking at these two units want to pull the trigger to purchase. Both units are priced within a hundred dollars of each other? What unit would you pick?

I've heard that the York has an Air Switch problem? Can anyone comment.

One installer suggested i go with a the 2000 CFM blower or the 1600 CFM blower for my 3000 sq ft house as we have a few rooms in the upstairs that have poor flow. Is this recommended with the new modulating furnaces? Can you oversize the blower motor without changing the ducts? What would be the possible negative impacts? what is the recommended blower size? for the 90,000 BTU unit
Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
149 upvotes
jsparky wrote: Im looking for some honest feeback on either the G71P or York YP9C.


I've been looking at these two units want to pull the trigger to purchase. Both units are priced within a hundred dollars of each other? What unit would you pick?

I've heard that the York has an Air Switch problem? Can anyone comment.

One installer suggested i go with a the 2000 CFM blower or the 1600 CFM blower for my 3000 sq ft house as we have a few rooms in the upstairs that have poor flow. Is this recommended with the new modulating furnaces? Can you oversize the blower motor without changing the ducts? What would be the possible negative impacts? what is the recommended blower size? for the 90,000 BTU unit
I HIGHLY doubt there is a need for a 2000CFM blower, and I also doubt the existing ductwork would handle that in a proper manner.

There have been several posts regarding the differences from the G71 to the YP9C. Several from myself specifically. Both are modulating but do so in a VERY different manner.

As for this "air switch" problem, I presume you mean the pressure switch? If so, yes there was a problem at assembly with a large pile of units. The problem was addressed, replacement switches sent to shops with units and retrofits done in the field. So to answer the question, no there are no longer problems.

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