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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
149 upvotes
notsureofitiall wrote: We try to heat our house with our wood burning fireplaces and set the thermostat to low for our oil burning furnace. Our house is very dry, a small room humidifier isn't cutting it for us. Due to the furnace not being on a lot, will a whole home humidifier work for us? Are there ones that operate whether the furnace is producing heat or not?
Yes, and given the application, the best option would be to use a steam humidifier. You will of course have to keep the furnace fan on as well. Do you have no natural gas option for a furnace?
Newbie
Jan 29, 2011
50 posts
13 upvotes
toronto
Hello,

I will be required to install an HRV as part of my renovation. My question is, does the HRV need to be directly connected to my washroom exhaust fans? I have no duct work in my house, only a split ac and radiant heat...just wondering how an HRV design will work if not connected to my washroom exhaust fans

Thanks
Newbie
Jul 3, 2007
86 posts
7 upvotes
Hi,

I had a new Bryant furnace installed a few months ago. I like to leave the fan on continuously (ECM, variable speed) and everything working fine except if I put in anything but a cheapy fiberglass filter the fan makes a very slight high pitch whine, but only when the fan is on low. It disappear at higher speeds. Not that big of a deal but it's starting to get on my nerves...lol

Not sure it's worthy of a service call so beside sticking with those cheap filter, any suggestions? I was even considering bumping up the fan's low speed to see if it would make the noise go away.

Thanks
Member
Nov 24, 2008
316 posts
143 upvotes
Dartmouth NS
I've got a Venmar Flair 30 which I've had to replace the motor on several times. I'm looking at another replacement, but I'm also considering replacing the whole unit. My air guy recommends replacement with a Honeywell air exchanger (not sure of model) and he's quoting $1650 which includes installation. Looking for opinions on replacement model and costs.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jan 16, 2003
2173 posts
883 upvotes
Hi,

I recently have my Goodman furnace element replaced under warranty. I was 1.5 years old. The coil was physically broken and only partial heat was available. The company changed the 15KW element and noticed that a small portion is glowing orange. He says that's not normal and it may burn our again in a couple of years. I understand the airflow must be sufficient to pull the heat away from the element. Options were the following:

1. Increase fan speed. The problem is it's going to be much noisier as perhaps push too much air to the vents. Apparently it may affect cooling in the summer he said.
2. Increase return air. We cut two 10x10 holes in above the filter section to pull in more air. It slightly reduced the glowing effect, but it's still there (see photo)

The only way for the elements to stop glowing 100% is to remove the 5" filter. That's not an option.

Image

Not sure what to do. Any suggestions? How serious is this?

Thanks.
Jr. Member
Sep 1, 2012
122 posts
33 upvotes
Ottawa/Gatineau
Anyone here have a hydronic furnace (the air is heated by the on demand water heater)?

I just bought a new house with that type of furnace and I find it very bad.. The furnace could work all day and the temperature would not get higher than 20 C. The air coming out of the floor is not even that hot (I would say it's like 22 C). Yesterday, when I got back home, the temperature was 16.5 and it took 3-4h to get it to 19.5.. Is this normal?

I am used to a gas furnace where you heat the house very quickly.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2009
1853 posts
341 upvotes
Ottawa
stefxx wrote: Anyone here have a hydronic furnace (the air is heated by the on demand water heater)?

I just bought a new house with that type of furnace and I find it very bad.. The furnace could work all day and the temperature would not get higher than 20 C. The air coming out of the floor is not even that hot (I would say it's like 22 C). Yesterday, when I got back home, the temperature was 16.5 and it took 3-4h to get it to 19.5.. Is this normal?

I am used to a gas furnace where you heat the house very quickly.
I had one of these for over 15 years, and I think it's the water temperature that is set too low on your water heater. What make and model water heater and hydronic air handler (that's the correct term)?
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2009
1853 posts
341 upvotes
Ottawa
second2none wrote: Hi,

I recently have my Goodman furnace element replaced under warranty. I was 1.5 years old. The coil was physically broken and only partial heat was available. The company changed the 15KW element and noticed that a small portion is glowing orange. He says that's not normal and it may burn our again in a couple of years. I understand the airflow must be sufficient to pull the heat away from the element. Options were the following:

1. Increase fan speed. The problem is it's going to be much noisier as perhaps push too much air to the vents. Apparently it may affect cooling in the summer he said.
2. Increase return air. We cut two 10x10 holes in above the filter section to pull in more air. It slightly reduced the glowing effect, but it's still there (see photo)

The only way for the elements to stop glowing 100% is to remove the 5" filter. That's not an option.

Image

Not sure what to do. Any suggestions? How serious is this?

Thanks.
If you have too much air restriction with the filter, then you can only increase the fan speed setting (if it's not maxed out already).
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Jr. Member
Sep 1, 2012
122 posts
33 upvotes
Ottawa/Gatineau
Limoges_shopper wrote: I had one of these for over 15 years, and I think it's the water temperature that is set too low on your water heater. What make and model water heater and hydronic air handler (that's the correct term)?
The water heater is a Giant UGTC-152 set at 140F (the max) and the air handler is a Red Zone RXAH46.

The air handler fan was set to the lowest setting, so the guy boosted the fan. More air is coming out. Its still not like a gas furnace for sure, but it is heated better now.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2009
1853 posts
341 upvotes
Ottawa
stefxx wrote: The water heater is a Giant UGTC-152 set at 140F (the max) and the air handler is a Red Zone RXAH46.

The air handler fan was set to the lowest setting, so the guy boosted the fan. More air is coming out. Its still not like a gas furnace for sure, but it is heated better now.
OK< when it's a tankless, then the flow affects the discharge temperature. So even if you have it set at 140 deg F,, the actual discharge temperature will drop below that if you increase the flow to above 3 USGPM. You must have a valve somewhere inline that you can throttle down a bit to see if the temperature of the water going tot he air handler increases.
Another thing to check is for insufficient flow: you will see that the pipe coping from the air handler is pretty cool: that's because the water is spending so much time in the coil that's it's cooling down to close to room temperature. If this were the case. you could have an obstruction in the pipe, a valve that is partially closed, a defective or insufficient pump, long pipes with small diameter tubing, etc...
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Sr. Member
Mar 9, 2014
660 posts
667 upvotes
Ottawa
How necessary is it to do a Combustion Analysis right after installation? And is it necessary to do one every year?

I'm not sure if my installer did a Combustion Analysis after installation, as there was no access hole drilled in the PVC like I've seen on youtube.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2009
1853 posts
341 upvotes
Ottawa
huntclub wrote: How necessary is it to do a Combustion Analysis right after installation? And is it necessary to do one every year?

I'm not sure if my installer did a Combustion Analysis after installation, as there was no access hole drilled in the PVC like I've seen on youtube.
You are no longer allowed to drill a hole int he venting like you saw on Youtube. If you want to perform in indoor combustion analysis, you have to install a tee fitting with a bushing and a threaded plug. If not, then you do it outside.

How important is it? Well, it's pretty important, but I am going to say that almost 100% of the installers do not do this. If you really want to cover your butt, then do an analysis right after initial startup so you have a starting point for reference. Then after each year, you compare the data to see how your combustion is doing.
Did you specifically ask for this service? If not, then there is a 100% chance that you didn't get it done.
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Sr. Member
Mar 9, 2014
660 posts
667 upvotes
Ottawa
Limoges_shopper wrote: You are no longer allowed to drill a hole int he venting like you saw on Youtube. If you want to perform in indoor combustion analysis, you have to install a tee fitting with a bushing and a threaded plug. If not, then you do it outside.

How important is it? Well, it's pretty important, but I am going to say that almost 100% of the installers do not do this. If you really want to cover your butt, then do an analysis right after initial startup so you have a starting point for reference. Then after each year, you compare the data to see how your combustion is doing.
Did you specifically ask for this service? If not, then there is a 100% chance that you didn't get it done.
I didn't specifically ask for it, and lol it's not so much to cover my butt. I just don't want to be either:

1. Pumping too much Carbon Monoxide onto the driveway.
2. Pumping too much air out needlessly. i.e. If the installer kept the factory setting, would I be getting 86% efficiency instead of 96%?
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2009
1853 posts
341 upvotes
Ottawa
huntclub wrote: I didn't specifically ask for it, and lol it's not so much to cover my butt. I just don't want to be either:

1. Pumping too much Carbon Monoxide onto the driveway.
2. Pumping too much air out needlessly. i.e. If the installer kept the factory setting, would I be getting 86% efficiency instead of 96%?
When you keep a balanced venting system, then the fuel to air mixture should be pretty close. One was to check is look to see if you are getting condensation from the furnace during heating. If so, then it's operating above 90% efficiency. insufficient air is worse than too much: you end up with carbon build-up which is a lot worse than too lean a combustion.

You should have practically no carbon monoxide in the exhaust. It's should be carbon dioxide. But let's assume that it is carbon monoxide: that is a gas - odourless and colourless. And that gas is lighter than air, so it will rise, not fall down onto your driveway.
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Sr. Member
Mar 9, 2014
660 posts
667 upvotes
Ottawa
Limoges_shopper wrote: When you keep a balanced venting system, then the fuel to air mixture should be pretty close. One was to check is look to see if you are getting condensation from the furnace during heating. If so, then it's operating above 90% efficiency. insufficient air is worse than too much: you end up with carbon build-up which is a lot worse than too lean a combustion.

You should have practically no carbon monoxide in the exhaust. It's should be carbon dioxide. But let's assume that it is carbon monoxide: that is a gas - odourless and colourless. And that gas is lighter than air, so it will rise, not fall down onto your driveway.
Thanks man. There is plenty of condensation, so I think I'm okay with efficiency then. I'll perhaps do an analysis next year.
Newbie
Feb 5, 2012
1 posts
WATERLOO
I have skimmed much of this thread and attempted to do some searches but was unable to find information I was looking for.

I am finishing my basement. A bathroom, a big living room, and a large utility/storage room that houses the furnace, water heater, etc...

Currently there are 3 registers in the ceiling near the 3 windows. Conveniently, each of the registers is in a position such that I could extend the ducting a few feet, put in a 90degree elbow, run ducting down the wall, and have the register then near the floor (about a foot left of each window). My understanding is code now requires this in a finished basement. Is it worth the hassle? If so, is there any fancing ducting I can buy that will give me the equivalent of 6" radius but not require me to build the wall out 6 inches? Can I just create a cavity in the wall with the same area?

Currently, there is a single cold air return vent directly in the main cold air return trunk. This will end up being in the 'furnace room'. Should I be moving this to the large living room area (pretty much moving it 2 feet and putting it into a wall. If I do so, should I cover up the existing one in the furnace room as well?

Cheers
Deal Fanatic
Dec 19, 2009
6197 posts
4451 upvotes
wormsy wrote: If so, is there any fancing ducting I can buy that will give me the equivalent of 6" radius but not require me to build the wall out 6 inches? Can I just create a cavity in the wall with the same area?
3 1/4" x 10" (or 3 x 10) duct would be equivalent to 6" round pipe.
May be able to get it at a big box store but a heating contractor should have it for sure.
Should be able to get a 6" x 3 1/4 x 10 (maybe 3 x 10) angle boot to make the transition from the joist space to the wall space.

http://www.electromn.com/pdf/ec001.pdf
Deal Addict
May 24, 2011
1820 posts
700 upvotes
Canada
What do you guys think of Fujitsu heat pumps, such as their ARU models?

Can Fujitsu heat pumps work with smart thermometers, such as Apple HomeKit compatible models, or Nest? My installer says Fujitsu has proprietary thermostats and third parties won't work. Thoughts?
==
Telus iPhone 11 Pro
Deal Guru
Feb 4, 2015
10332 posts
6699 upvotes
Canada, Eh!!
Think good idea to have return outside of furnace room... other more knowledgeable folks will chime in but I would be concerned with return in room that is more likely to have carbon monoxide.

Probably good to have more then one return, ideally near floor as well
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2017,2018: BOC raised rates 5 times and MCAP raised its prime next day each time.
2020: BOC dropped rates 3 times and MCAP waited to drop its prime to include all 3 drops.
Member
Jul 15, 2012
313 posts
167 upvotes
Calgary
Hi Folks,

Hoping you guys can offer some insight into a problem of mine with hydronic baseboard heaters. I'm living in a fairly new apartment (<5 yrs built), and the water baseboard heaters in my unit has recently started to make really loud gurgling/grinding noises. I've always come to accept some noise from these pipes, but those were usually the pinging and cracking kind inside the walls. Those pinging/cracking noises only came on when the water was circulating through the pipes every cycle (30 mins or so), and would die down after a minute, so I was never bothered too much by it.

The ones I have been experiencing lately are different; it comes exclusively from this white box that's attached to the top of one of the pipes inside the baseboard. It has a handle on top of it that turns counter-clockwise every cycle, and counterclockwise every other cycle. I have observed that during every other cycle, when the handle is turning clockwise for roughly 15 seconds, it makes a very loud grinding/gurgling noise that can drown out the TV noise and can be heard even while showering in the bathroom with doors closed. I have lived in my unit for a while and don't remember it being anywhere near this loud during the previous winter. Also, sometimes after this noise has died down, the box will continue making an annoying high-pitched humming noise. It's not enough to drown out the nearby TV, but still very noticeable.

My question is, is this box the main culprit behind all the weird noises, and how difficult would it be to fix it? I'll make a request to the landlord soon. Still, I'm worried that if it's an expensive fix, they'll just ask me to live with it considering it's not an health-hazard like mold. Knowing more about this subject would certainly help if I have to negotiate with the landlord to get it fixed.

Sorry if I'm not being super-clear on this, and thanks in advance for taking a look at my post. I can supply a picture of the box that sits inside the baseboard if it helps.

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