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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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  • Feb 18th, 2017 12:50 pm
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[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
Hello everyone, sorry about my delay in responding. I am currently away until march 10th. Please keep the questions coming and I will respond to them all once I return.

thanks
Brian
Deal Addict
Feb 14, 2003
1958 posts
54 upvotes
GTA
If an ensuite bathroom has an enclosed toliet, how may exhaust vents are required? Are there building code requirements on this issue?

As I expect, there should be one vent in the enclosed toliet room and another one outside the toliet in the bathroom for better ventilation especially during showing. Am I correct?

I've found some homes with only one exhaust vent in the enclosed toilet room and none outside in the ensuite bathroom. Is it usual?
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
May 1, 2003
6422 posts
153 upvotes
I have a question. My furnace motor just started making a loud humming/buzzing noise for a second or 2 before it starts. My UPS has made a similar sound before, I'm guessing its something to do with the electric motor. Is there something I check/do to get rid of this noise?
Sr. Member
User avatar
Jul 30, 2006
973 posts
143 upvotes
Milton
duct cleaning... does it do anything??

... my parents bungalow hasn't had it's ducts cleaned in the 45 years they have lived there but the wife is pushing hard to get our (7 year old) ducts cleaned. I am starting to buckle because we just seem to have SOOO much dust

We are using a filtrete MPR500 filter so I know I can get a better one there... will that make a difference?

The next step is an air cleaner/purifier... any advice anyone?

I hate asking someone who installs air cleaners or sells duct cleaning because their answer tends to be skewed towards making the sale

ps. great thread... bririp thanks for all the expertise without pushing for sales if I knew anyone in Markham, I would suggest you
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
I do not recommend thick, heavy filters (such as the 3m $15 ones). These restrict the flow of air through your furnace therefore not allowing enough air to get to the blower and through your ducts. I do not offer duct cleaning but I do recommend it within the first 3-5 years that you own a house. All of these new materials (wood, drywall, furniture etc) off gas when they are new. This is basically when it gets rid of its "poisons" into your house. This leads to "Sick House" syndrom. A lot of this "poison" will be sitting in the dust from your new home in your ducts.

An EAC (electronic air cleaner) definately works best, and I do recommend them (not only because I do sell and install them), but because they do the best job at filtering out most undesirable particals in the air, which impingment filters (standard throw aways) do not catch.

It is a small investment for your health.


CheapoFillipo wrote:
Apr 1st, 2008 8:14 am
duct cleaning... does it do anything??

... my parents bungalow hasn't had it's ducts cleaned in the 45 years they have lived there but the wife is pushing hard to get our (7 year old) ducts cleaned. I am starting to buckle because we just seem to have SOOO much dust

We are using a filtrete MPR500 filter so I know I can get a better one there... will that make a difference?

The next step is an air cleaner/purifier... any advice anyone?

I hate asking someone who installs air cleaners or sells duct cleaning because their answer tends to be skewed towards making the sale

ps. great thread... bririp thanks for all the expertise without pushing for sales if I knew anyone in Markham, I would suggest you
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
You would want to hook up a meter to the motor to diagnose the problem. The voltage use/drop, resistance, and current should be the same as on its name plate. If any of those are not the same, then you can diagnose the cause.
bionicbadger wrote:
Mar 6th, 2008 12:27 pm
I have a question. My furnace motor just started making a loud humming/buzzing noise for a second or 2 before it starts. My UPS has made a similar sound before, I'm guessing its something to do with the electric motor. Is there something I check/do to get rid of this noise?
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
Unfortunately that would be the only way to fix that. You would also want to check that the cover on the outside has not fallen off. If it has there is no blockage from outside air coming in and chilling the rooms/tub.

b233314 wrote:
Feb 15th, 2008 11:49 am
Hi Brian,

In my powder room, I got a contractor to install an exhaust fan which obviously exhuasts directly outdoors. The problem I am finding is that on cold days, the room is absolutely freezing and being that the duct is directly below the washroom upstairs and susequently below the bath tub, the tub is freezing too! Is my only option tearing down the ceiling and insulating the duct?

thanks ahead of time.
Member
User avatar
Mar 24, 2008
366 posts
8 upvotes
Bullseye wrote:
Jan 31st, 2008 8:18 pm
An ERV and an HRV both use exchanger baffles to preheat incoming fresh air with outgoing stale air, not sure why you think it's only an ERV that does that.

The only energy savings with either is the reduced load on your A/C if you have an ERV, as it removes some moisture before feeding the air into the system. An HRV will save no energy, and in fact lose some because the heat exchange system is not 100% efficient.

No offense to you, but I've found this to be a very common problem with HVAC guys, with regards to HRV/ERV's. Nine out of ten of them that I speak to don't actually know anything about them other than passing knowledge. I don't blame the HVAC guys for not knowing, as these are still not common products, so they haven't had a chance to learn yet.
Perhaps the reason us HVAC guys don't know much about HRV/ERV energy savings is because it's a moot point. HRV/ERVs are VENTILATORS with a primary objective of exchanging inside/outside air, not saving energy. The 2010 Ontario Building Code is suppose to make ventilators mandatory, so we'll all be much more familiar with them very soon. Refreshing inside air is huge benefit to the occupants and any energy consumption/savings is minimal, and when compared to the benefits, insignificant.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
HRV/ERV are a great addition. Yes they ventilate from inside and outside, but while doing so it exchanges the heat, therefore getting the fresh air (same as cutting a hole in your house) but not having the need/expense to reheat that new air, as the old stale air is transfering 95-99% of its heat.
Jr. Member
Dec 31, 2003
191 posts
16 upvotes
hi,

I inherited a 5 yr old mid-efficiency boiler when I moved to my house. When the boiler was on during the winter, there was water collecting at the bottom of my chimney liner and running back into the boiler. My home inspector said it was a common problem, and told me the only thing is to take the damper off, thus reducing efficiency. This worked except on some very cold days. He said the problem is that the chimney liner gets cold and then when the warm exhaust hits the liner it causes condensation. Is there anything else I can do ?

thanks,
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
It sounds like your chimney is too large for the boiler's exhaust. You will probably need a chimney liner installed for both efficiency and code requirements. If the chimney is too large, condensation occurs due to too much ambient temperature surrounding the flue gases.

This is a fairly small job to have done.

Also, you cannot remove the damper from the boiler, this is strongly against code and could result in no insurance coverage if something happens.

jroc wrote:
Apr 1st, 2008 9:25 pm
hi,

I inherited a 5 yr old mid-efficiency boiler when I moved to my house. When the boiler was on during the winter, there was water collecting at the bottom of my chimney liner and running back into the boiler. My home inspector said it was a common problem, and told me the only thing is to take the damper off, thus reducing efficiency. This worked except on some very cold days. He said the problem is that the chimney liner gets cold and then when the warm exhaust hits the liner it causes condensation. Is there anything else I can do ?

thanks,
Jr. Member
Dec 31, 2003
191 posts
16 upvotes
There is already a liner in the chimney already, maybe the liner is too big ?
Why is it against code to remove the damper, the damper only closes when the boiler shuts off, so isn't it only job is to conserve energy as to keep the cold air from running from the chimney back into the house ?

thanks.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
The damper is there to create a neutral draft over the burner. Without the damper the boiler will not be firing properly and the flame will be coming to high up in your chimney. This will cause improper combustion and leave you with extra CO gas.
Jr. Member
Mar 25, 2008
125 posts
4 upvotes
Oakville
We just had a 3 tonne 14 seer Rheem AC unit put in. Actually, it's being installed as I type. Boy is this sucker huge! When I questioned the size, they told me that the higher the seer, the larger the unit, is this true?

My last home had a 10 seer and it was half the sizes of this monster.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
1059 posts
109 upvotes
Markham
Newer A/C's are getting larger compressors. Yes it is true, although some manufacturers use the same chasis therefore they stay the same size.
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