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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Deal Addict
Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
148 upvotes
isitcheap wrote:
Oct 10th, 2016 3:30 pm
Cruzzco wrote:
Oct 9th, 2016 8:59 pm
Also.. if you have a condensate pump and it gets full... the condensate will back up to your switches and causes problems... Make sure all p traps are clear... then prime them like they show you at the end of this youtube video...
No Ptrap on my TG9S but it does have a condensate pan. After having the furnace run on and off all night there is a small puddle under the pan. Seems to be leaking out one of the motor bolts.

I pulled off the tubes into and out of the pan, and blew them clear (no blockage).

How does one clear out the condensate pan? Hopefully it doesn't require removing the motor.
Is your drain pan clear or black? If clear, although a smart IDEA from them, it failed miserably. They crack and leak and need to be replaced.
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Dec 15, 2006
1867 posts
148 upvotes
Limoges_shopper wrote:
Oct 8th, 2016 7:09 pm
cashinstinct wrote:
Oct 7th, 2016 1:17 pm
nighthawk26 wrote:
Oct 7th, 2016 12:26 pm
Get someone in that knows what they are talking about. Variable speed Inverter will literally change the BTU output that the head will even see never mind you being able to control the fan speed in which that cool air is put into the space. Must be the honest sales guy saying buy less.

Also, consider if you feel you need what the I-SEE and 3D ISEE offer in terms of advantages over the lower GE.
Thanks again.

My issue compared GE and FH is the following:

Two programs in Quebec currently give money if the heat pump unit is Energy Star: $650 from RenoClimat (fixed amount) and 20% provincial tax credit (amounts over $2,500) called RenoVert, so around $1,000 total, till March 31, 2017.

For GE series, the GE18NA-8 (18 000 BTU) unit is not Energy Star (confirmed in Mitsubishi's catalog). Therefore, if the GE15 unit is not enough, I would take the GE24NA unit instead.

I don't really mind the 3D ISEE stuff.

Therefore, I would be comparing GE24NA with FH18-NA2.

GE24NA - 2 ton unit
22 500 BTU (min 8 200, max 31 400)
Heating 47 F : nominal 27 600 BTU
Heating 17 F: nominal 16 000 BTU

FH18-NA2 - 1 1/2 ton
17 200 BTU (min 6 450, max 21 000)
Heating 47 F : nominal 20 300 BTU
Heating 17 F: nominal 13 700 BTU
Heating 5 F: max 20 300 BTU
Are you implying that the 2 ton GE unit is energy Star rated, but possibly not the 1.5 ton model?
I find your logic somewhat flawed because I feel you need a 2 ton model to heat your home effectively and efficiently.
He cares because where he is there are big rebates for ES. Most people do not understand what ES means anyways. It could be .1 SEER too low and suddenly not be ES.
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Aug 29, 2012
257 posts
53 upvotes
Mississauga
nighthawk26 wrote:
Oct 11th, 2016 12:55 am
isitcheap wrote:
Oct 10th, 2016 3:30 pm
Cruzzco wrote:
Oct 9th, 2016 8:59 pm
Also.. if you have a condensate pump and it gets full... the condensate will back up to your switches and causes problems... Make sure all p traps are clear... then prime them like they show you at the end of this youtube video...
No Ptrap on my TG9S but it does have a condensate pan. After having the furnace run on and off all night there is a small puddle under the pan. Seems to be leaking out one of the motor bolts.

I pulled off the tubes into and out of the pan, and blew them clear (no blockage).

How does one clear out the condensate pan? Hopefully it doesn't require removing the motor.
Is your drain pan clear or black? If clear, although a smart IDEA from them, it failed miserably. They crack and leak and need to be replaced.
Luckily it is black. I read about the clear ones too.

My sensors have a 2014 date, so assuming they have not been replaced already my furnace is only two years old. No warranty bc previous home owner left me nothing and there are no stickers to identify the installer.
Newbie
Oct 12, 2016
2 posts
I am in the market to get a new furnace (16yrs old) and AC unit (25 years old). We have received a bunch of quotes at the moment, which all fall within $400-$500 of each other, except for one which is substantially lower as they have a promotional price at the moment. I would like some advice on which would be the better ones to go with. I live in Ontario so I am eligible for up to $650 rebates ($250 SEER 14.5min or $400 SEER 15min; $250 Furnace). All in prices do not reflect the rebate I would be receiving.
Quote 1. Rheem Furnace R96PA0852521MSA with a Rheem A/C RA1330AJ1NA (13 SEER). I am eligible for the Furnace rebate, but not for the AC ($250). This is also the cheaper promotional quote (approx. $6600 all in)
Quote 2. Keeprite Furnace #G9MVE0801716A with a Keeprite A/C CSA630GKA (16 Seer). Eligible for both rebates ($650). Approx. $7600 all in.
Quote 3. Lennox Furnace EL296V with a Lennox A/C XC14 (16 Seer). Eligible for both rebates ($650). Approx. $7300 all in.

The contractor who gave me the 1st quote has told me he doesn't install or push an A/C higher than 13 SEER because the cost savings on a yearly basis are significantly lower than the cost differential to get a higher SEER A/C. Is this a valid point to convey to a prospective client? All three warranties are the same, so comparing them, it seems that a 16 SEER A/C unit would cost me an additional $700-$1000, but that would net me a rebate of $400, dropping the price difference down to $300-$600. How long would it take to get this return on investment?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.
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Apr 29, 2008
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nighthawk26 wrote:
Oct 11th, 2016 12:57 am
He cares because where he is there are big rebates for ES. Most people do not understand what ES means anyways. It could be .1 SEER too low and suddenly not be ES.
Thanks, that's a good summary. I need a ES unit to get Quebec gov. rebates. It would be a bad financial decision to take a non-ES unit.

The GE18 unit is not Energy Star because it does not respect EER minimum.
Limoges_shopper wrote:
Oct 8th, 2016 7:09 pm
I find your logic somewhat flawed because I feel you need a 2 ton model to heat your home effectively and efficiently.
I have now 2 Mitsubishi sellers telling me the GE15 (1.25 ton, 14,000 BTU nominal for cooling, 18,000 BTU nominal for heating, energy star) is the best choice for the my 1,008 square feet bungalow.

They say the FH18 unit (1.5 ton, 17,200 BTU cooling, 20,300 BTU heating) is too big for my home.

I don't want to make a mistake choosing FH18, but I have a feeling it would be the best. I don't have HVAC knowledge though, I know it...

When I look at various calculations on Internet (rules of thumb let's say), I often get a calculation near 1.5 ton.

Example: 1,008 / 700 = 1.44 ton.

_____

There is a $200 mail-in rebate from Mitsubishi for Quebec and Atlantic till Nov 30, 2015 on both GE15 and FH18 units.
Temp. Banned
Dec 19, 2009
3500 posts
1485 upvotes
cashinstinct wrote:
Oct 13th, 2016 2:30 pm
They say the FH18 unit (1.5 ton, 17,200 BTU cooling, 20,300 BTU heating) is too big for my home.
Ask them if you can prove that you will need the larger one .. will they give it to you for free.
I'm sure the RFD folk here can help you out with a heat/cool load calculation.

Or tell them to prove that you don't.
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Apr 29, 2008
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pootza wrote:
Oct 13th, 2016 3:06 pm
Ask them if you can prove that you will need the larger one .. will they give it to you for free.
I'm sure the RFD folk here can help you out with a heat/cool load calculation.

Or tell them to prove that you don't.
Considering the $200 mail-in rebate for FH18 and the increased Quebec tax credit (based on $ spending before mail-in rebate), the price difference between FH15 and FH18 is around $100-150 "net", so it's very close.

It's not about the money really, it's more that they insist I will have a "less good" performance with FH18.
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Sep 19, 2014
1155 posts
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I'm sorry if this question has been asked before, but seeing how there's already 500 pages...

I live in a condo apartment with central heating/air-conditioning, but lately I can feel water droplets in the air that blows out of the vents. I would probably call for a HVAC technician to check it out, but I would like to know roughly how much such a service will cost. Thanks for any advice!
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Sep 22, 2011
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Should I cover my air conditioner for winter?
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Dec 15, 2006
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amiratish wrote:
Oct 14th, 2016 10:46 pm
Should I cover my air conditioner for winter?
No. If anything, put a board across the top or cover just no more than the top 3rd. Some people (including myself) will use the lid from a garbage can.
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Nov 21, 2009
1815 posts
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Ottawa
nighthawk26 wrote:
Oct 11th, 2016 12:57 am



He cares because where he is there are big rebates for ES. Most people do not understand what ES means anyways. It could be .1 SEER too low and suddenly not be ES.
His logic is flawed thinking about taking the 1.5 ton model: he needs 2 tons minimum for the heating so why even consider a 1.5 ton since it won't provide enough heat?
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
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Nov 21, 2009
1815 posts
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Ottawa
cashinstinct wrote:
Oct 13th, 2016 2:30 pm
nighthawk26 wrote:
Oct 11th, 2016 12:57 am
He cares because where he is there are big rebates for ES. Most people do not understand what ES means anyways. It could be .1 SEER too low and suddenly not be ES.
Thanks, that's a good summary. I need a ES unit to get Quebec gov. rebates. It would be a bad financial decision to take a non-ES unit.

The GE18 unit is not Energy Star because it does not respect EER minimum.
Limoges_shopper wrote:
Oct 8th, 2016 7:09 pm
I find your logic somewhat flawed because I feel you need a 2 ton model to heat your home effectively and efficiently.
I have now 2 Mitsubishi sellers telling me the GE15 (1.25 ton, 14,000 BTU nominal for cooling, 18,000 BTU nominal for heating, energy star) is the best choice for the my 1,008 square feet bungalow.

They say the FH18 unit (1.5 ton, 17,200 BTU cooling, 20,300 BTU heating) is too big for my home.

I don't want to make a mistake choosing FH18, but I have a feeling it would be the best. I don't have HVAC knowledge though, I know it...

When I look at various calculations on Internet (rules of thumb let's say), I often get a calculation near 1.5 ton.

Example: 1,008 / 700 = 1.44 ton.

_____

There is a $200 mail-in rebate from Mitsubishi for Quebec and Atlantic till Nov 30, 2015 on both GE15 and FH18 units.
I understand your concerns. Being 0.5 tons over what you need is not a problem. It's called peace of mind knowing that you'll have enough heat down to the shutdown temperature. There is one thing you need to think about: the lower the shutdown temperature of a heat pump, the larger you need it to be because your heat loss increases as the outdoor temperature decreases. So, if Unit A shuts down at -5 DEg C, and Unit B shuts down at -10, you'll need a larger capacity for Unit B because the heat loss is greater at -10 Deg C than at -5 Deg C.
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Need quick advice? Email me at RFDfanOttawa@gmail.com
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Nov 21, 2009
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pootza wrote:
Oct 13th, 2016 3:06 pm
cashinstinct wrote:
Oct 13th, 2016 2:30 pm
They say the FH18 unit (1.5 ton, 17,200 BTU cooling, 20,300 BTU heating) is too big for my home.
Ask them if you can prove that you will need the larger one .. will they give it to you for free.
I'm sure the RFD folk here can help you out with a heat/cool load calculation.

Or tell them to prove that you don't.
Yeah : good luck with that one. :D Heat loss calculations are pretty extensive and typically require access to the home. :)
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Need quick advice? Email me at RFDfanOttawa@gmail.com
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Nov 21, 2009
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nighthawk26 wrote:
Oct 14th, 2016 11:13 pm
amiratish wrote:
Oct 14th, 2016 10:46 pm
Should I cover my air conditioner for winter?
No. If anything, put a board across the top or cover just no more than the top 3rd. Some people (including myself) will use the lid from a garbage can.
What's this top 3rd part?
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Need quick advice? Email me at RFDfanOttawa@gmail.com
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2009
1815 posts
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Ottawa
Alt1ma wrote:
Oct 14th, 2016 7:48 pm
I'm sorry if this question has been asked before, but seeing how there's already 500 pages...

I live in a condo apartment with central heating/air-conditioning, but lately I can feel water droplets in the air that blows out of the vents. I would probably call for a HVAC technician to check it out, but I would like to know roughly how much such a service will cost. Thanks for any advice!
Sounds like a plugged drain pan. How much it costs to have this service done is anybody's guess. Call around.
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Need quick advice? Email me at RFDfanOttawa@gmail.com

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