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Dec 11, 2005
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TO
Fire Man wrote:
Dec 16th, 2018 11:59 am
I recently picked up a new water panel for my humidifier and some filters for my furnace from Furnancefilter.ca in Brampton.

I had a conversation with the rep there when I inquired about the larger 5+ filters they had.

My house is about 3 years old, have a Goodman furnace. The rep claimed a house that new should have a high efficiency furnace which I believe it is. The builder's installer decided to install a filter cabinet to accommodate a 1" thick filter.

Is it worth paying an HVAC guy to replace the boot so that the furnace can use a 5+ inch high efficiency filter? He mentioned it would be approx. $300?
How does one find out if they have a High eff furnace and if it's 1 or 2 stage? Reason I ask is our's is 16 year old furnace/house when it was built. I can only find the company furnace name on it.
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Newbie
Dec 18, 2018
3 posts
1 upvote
hey guys I have a dilemma..
I don't know weather i should replace my furnace or fix it..

basically I had tech come in and say that the motor seiged, and for it to work i had to manually spin it to have it get it going..the replacement for a motor is about $700..
the furnace it self is about 13 year sold. Its a Carrier model 58MSA080-12... basically tech said its not worth it to fix it since its an older furnace and that i should completly replace it since it might have other troubles down the line due to the life expectancy.. what do you guys suggest..and if its a replacement I hear carrier 2 stage 80,000 btu, ecm would be best..my house is about 2300 sq ft.. I'm wondering what the price range is and also possible contractors you guys recommend?..and also is it best to buy from well known companies like enercare, reliance..or someone where else
Sr. Member
Oct 9, 2011
854 posts
360 upvotes
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johnnybones33 wrote:
Dec 19th, 2018 11:39 pm
hey guys I have a dilemma..
I don't know weather i should replace my furnace or fix it..

basically I had tech come in and say that the motor seiged, and for it to work i had to manually spin it to have it get it going..the replacement for a motor is about $700..
the furnace it self is about 13 year sold. Its a Carrier model 58MSA080-12... basically tech said its not worth it to fix it since its an older furnace and that i should completly replace it since it might have other troubles down the line due to the life expectancy.. what do you guys suggest..and if its a replacement I hear carrier 2 stage 80,000 btu, ecm would be best..my house is about 2300 sq ft.. I'm wondering what the price range is and also possible contractors you guys recommend?..and also is it best to buy from well known companies like enercare, reliance..or someone where else

Post #8596 also talks of issues with the same furnace model, about the same age. I too had one of these crappy builder installed Carrier models. During the first 3 years, the motherboard was replaced under warranty, then I paid another $600 to replace something else 5 years in, and I spent about $600 keeping it alive over the past 3 years, finally replaced it last month when it died again.

My advice to you is to replace it with something new. I went with a Keeprite G9MXT 80k btu 2 stage. It is a bit cheaper than the Carrier, but both are part of United Technologies group.

My house is 3000 sq and so far, the Keeprite will run on Stage One 95% of the time. I think 80k btu is way too big for your house.

There's a guy here under group buys who has great reviews but is on the expensive end of the spectrum, however he offers a long service warranty on his products. I went with an independent and will never use Reliance or Enercare as I can't afford their mark up. But Reliance will come to your house within 24 hours of a service call, whereas my indie will try to diagnose it over the phone with me and then it's 3 - 4 days before he can come out so you have to decide based on what you're comfortable with.

One last thing, make sure you have enough wires to your thermostat if you plan on letting the thermostat (such as an Ecobee) control the stage 1 to stage 2 switching, else you end up having the furnace do it. On my furnace, there's no logic to account for temperature changes outside nor does it learn how long it takes to heat my house. The stage switching is preset to run stage one for 7 minutes, then it's full blast on stage two. I found this out after I had my furnace installed and ended up running an extra wire from my furnace to my thermostat myself afterwards, but this may not be easy to do depending on how handy you are and whether your basement is finished or not.
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Mar 13, 2004
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Toronto, Ontario
Talk to fourseasoncomfort - Lots of great reviews here - 2014-2015-2016-2017-2018-central-ac-fur ... #p30256096

If you can find out which motor it is exactly and are handy you coudl change it yourself. A quick google search found some parts, not sure if this is exactly what you need but the part number should be on the motor itself for you to confirm - https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-P ... otor-Parts
johnnybones33 wrote:
Dec 19th, 2018 11:39 pm
hey guys I have a dilemma..
I don't know weather i should replace my furnace or fix it..

basically I had tech come in and say that the motor seiged, and for it to work i had to manually spin it to have it get it going..the replacement for a motor is about $700..
the furnace it self is about 13 year sold. Its a Carrier model 58MSA080-12... basically tech said its not worth it to fix it since its an older furnace and that i should completly replace it since it might have other troubles down the line due to the life expectancy.. what do you guys suggest..and if its a replacement I hear carrier 2 stage 80,000 btu, ecm would be best..my house is about 2300 sq ft.. I'm wondering what the price range is and also possible contractors you guys recommend?..and also is it best to buy from well known companies like enercare, reliance..or someone where else
0_o
<_<
>_>
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Mar 13, 2004
9351 posts
1602 upvotes
Toronto, Ontario
You would need to find out the model number of the furnace. If you take off the front of the furnace its usually on one of those metal panels on a sticker, might be on the back of the door too. Then you can google the model and see its specs. My guess is that its not a 2 stage furnace.
TorontoEh wrote:
Dec 17th, 2018 11:22 am
How does one find out if they have a High eff furnace and if it's 1 or 2 stage? Reason I ask is our's is 16 year old furnace/house when it was built. I can only find the company furnace name on it.
0_o
<_<
>_>
Newbie
Dec 18, 2018
3 posts
1 upvote
dpw198 wrote:
Dec 20th, 2018 7:53 am
Post #8596 also talks of issues with the same furnace model, about the same age. I too had one of these crappy builder installed Carrier models. During the first 3 years, the motherboard was replaced under warranty, then I paid another $600 to replace something else 5 years in, and I spent about $600 keeping it alive over the past 3 years, finally replaced it last month when it died again.

My advice to you is to replace it with something new. I went with a Keeprite G9MXT 80k btu 2 stage. It is a bit cheaper than the Carrier, but both are part of United Technologies group.

My house is 3000 sq and so far, the Keeprite will run on Stage One 95% of the time. I think 80k btu is way too big for your house.

There's a guy here under group buys who has great reviews but is on the expensive end of the spectrum, however he offers a long service warranty on his products. I went with an independent and will never use Reliance or Enercare as I can't afford their mark up. But Reliance will come to your house within 24 hours of a service call, whereas my indie will try to diagnose it over the phone with me and then it's 3 - 4 days before he can come out so you have to decide based on what you're comfortable with.

One last thing, make sure you have enough wires to your thermostat if you plan on letting the thermostat (such as an Ecobee) control the stage 1 to stage 2 switching, else you end up having the furnace do it. On my furnace, there's no logic to account for temperature changes outside nor does it learn how long it takes to heat my house. The stage switching is preset to run stage one for 7 minutes, then it's full blast on stage two. I found this out after I had my furnace installed and ended up running an extra wire from my furnace to my thermostat myself afterwards, but this may not be easy to do depending on how handy you are and whether your basement is finished or not.
thank you for that information, that was really helpful..
Jr. Member
Feb 11, 2009
176 posts
43 upvotes
I currently have a passive HRV system in the house I just bought. Are those any good or useful? It seems like it would force the furnace fan to run a lot just to circulate the air. How do I control when it should run or not in that case?


In an option where I would replace the passive HRV to a powered one, it will still tap in to the same heating ducts, would I still have to run the furnace fan to distribute air in the house?

Thank you
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Dec 29, 2008
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steph3n wrote:
Dec 20th, 2018 9:25 pm
I currently have a passive HRV system in the house I just bought. Are those any good or useful? It seems like it would force the furnace fan to run a lot just to circulate the air. How do I control when it should run or not in that case?


In an option where I would replace the passive HRV to a powered one, it will still tap in to the same heating ducts, would I still have to run the furnace fan to distribute air in the house?

Thank you
If you have no wall control, look on the HRV itself. My vanee can operate without a wall control if i want it to, but my house has a dumb wall control which is good enough.

The furnace fan needs to work with the HRV to distribute the air, would recommend leaving that as is and maybe look to see addomg a wall control or wire it to the ecobee/nest.
Jr. Member
Feb 11, 2009
176 posts
43 upvotes
Ok thanks, I will leave the hrv hooked up to the furnace.

However there are no controls on the hrv unit itself. There are no fans, no power cord whatsoever which is why I think it is a passive system.
Jr. Member
Apr 19, 2007
149 posts
3 upvotes
I have a 10 year old Rheem medium efficiency (80%) furnace with a circuit board that's getting a bit temperamental.
Having a new circuit board installed would cost about $500. A new high efficiency (96%) furnace would cost $4,000 installed. I plan to sell this house in 9-10 years.

I thought that the absolute best thing to do would be to just get a new high efficiency furnace now but have been told the following reasons why I may not want to:

- natural gas prices are low and likely to stay low so payback will be 10 years +
- high efficiency furnaces require much higher maintenance and parts are more expensive - any savings in gas likely to be chewed up by repair costs

Would greatly appreciate advice/comments on above.
Sr. Member
Oct 9, 2011
854 posts
360 upvotes
GTA
cdencore wrote:
Dec 26th, 2018 11:05 pm
I have a 10 year old Rheem medium efficiency (80%) furnace with a circuit board that's getting a bit temperamental.
Having a new circuit board installed would cost about $500. A new high efficiency (96%) furnace would cost $4,000 installed. I plan to sell this house in 9-10 years.

I thought that the absolute best thing to do would be to just get a new high efficiency furnace now but have been told the following reasons why I may not want to:

- natural gas prices are low and likely to stay low so payback will be 10 years +
- high efficiency furnaces require much higher maintenance and parts are more expensive - any savings in gas likely to be chewed up by repair costs

Would greatly appreciate advice/comments on above.
What is the size of your house and btu of your current unit? $4000 seems high but need to know what type of new furnace you’re thinking of buying in order to comment further.

To give you a perspective, I shopped around further and quotes came in at $2600 and $3400 for the same Keeprite 96% efficient two stage 80k btu unit. Initial quotes I received were $4500 and $5600 for different brands.

I found prices to be all over the place with different installers and brands of furnaces.
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Jr. Member
Apr 19, 2007
149 posts
3 upvotes
dpw198 wrote:
Dec 27th, 2018 7:37 am
What is the size of your house and btu of your current unit? $4000 seems high but need to know what type of new furnace you’re thinking of buying in order to comment further.

To give you a perspective, I shopped around further and quotes came in at $2600 and $3400 for the same Keeprite 96% efficient two stage 80k btu unit. Initial quotes I received were $4500 and $5600 for different brands.

I found prices to be all over the place with different installers and brands of furnaces.
I live in a 1800 SF townhouse that is sandwiched between 2 other townhouses.

My current mid efficiency 2 stage furnace is 75K BTU. new one quoted is $3,600 ($4K with HST included) for a 60K BTU high efficiency 2 stage furnace Keeprite G9MXT040.

My primary question really relates to whether its worthwhile buying a new furnace at all.
Sr. Member
Oct 9, 2011
854 posts
360 upvotes
GTA
cdencore wrote:
Dec 28th, 2018 8:12 pm
I live in a 1800 SF townhouse that is sandwiched between 2 other townhouses.

My current mid efficiency 2 stage furnace is 75K BTU. new one quoted is $3,600 ($4K with HST included) for a 60K BTU high efficiency 2 stage furnace Keeprite G9MXT040.

My primary question really relates to whether its worthwhile buying a new furnace at all.
That’s the same model unit I had installed and I can definitively say it is way better than the single stage unit that I had replaced. The temp in the house is more consistent between the basement to the 2nd floor. My unit runs in the lower stage 95% of the time but for longer periods of time as compared to the old single stage unit it replaced. Too early for me to say if I’m saving any money in terms of gas and hydro as I’ve only had it for a little less than 2 months.

A motor for this particular furnace will likely cost $800 to replace vs $350 on my old unit. A circuit board will be $1000 vs the $500 I paid 8 years ago, so yes, the newer machines are more costly to repair.

Btw, I think you mean G9MXT60 as opposed to 40 as 60=60k btu. Just making sure it’s a typo and not what your installer is quoting you on.

Also, you can do better than $4k if you shop around which may make your payback calc more appealing.
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Deal Addict
Dec 27, 2007
2723 posts
621 upvotes
How much should it cost to get a saddle valve for a humidifier replaced with a better type of valve? Water keeps dripping out when I turn the valve and I really don't feel confident trying to replace it on my own.

Or, how much does it usually cost to get a new humidifier installed?

I also want to get rid of an electronic air cleaner, is it safe to just put a pleated filter (If I can find one that fits) in there to replace the cells and power off the unit or is there a downside to that?

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