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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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  • Feb 17th, 2019 9:50 pm
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Newbie
User avatar
Nov 7, 2013
91 posts
20 upvotes
Ottawa
Trying to connect my humidifier to Ecobee 3.
I've done some research, and here is my plan.

The current wiring for the humidifier is this
IMG_5451.JPG

Some close up pictures
Furnance control board
IMG_2705.JPG

Note that the black wires connecting to the C & W1 terminals are for the humidifier

Humidifier
IMG_7278.JPG

Humidistat
IMG_7861.JPG

Ecobee 3
IMG_0312.JPG

My plan is to disconnect the black wires from the C & W1 terminals in the furnace, and from the valve on the humidifier. Cap and tape the exposed ends of the now un-used black wires.
Then I use this FAS/LVT Copper Thermostat Electrical Cable - 18/2 Brown.
Connect the black to C terminal and the white to the W1 terminal in the furnace
Run it to the humidifier, cut open the overall brown jacket and cut the white wire apart. (the black wire is not cut)
Connect each of the white ends to one of the wires on the humidifier valve.
Keep running the cable to my Ecobee 3, connect the black and white wires to the ACC+ and ACC- terminals on the Ecobee 3.

I have a few questions for this plan.

1. Is the cable I'm using going to be okay for the humidifier?
2. There is no HUM terminal on the furnace control board, will this be an issue?
3. Any other comments and concerns?
Newbie
Nov 27, 2009
64 posts
6 upvotes
Got a Enbridge Red Tag B for my Furnace reference code 4.7.3 saying the yellow piping has to be bonded. I live in a condo and thought that the whole building pipe system is bonded. Anyone know how much this will cost to have the tag taken off and anyone else with a similar situation
The condo has a HVAC unit and was built in 2004.
link with pics to see how much it costs to be bonded

https://forums.redflagdeals.com/got-enb ... 3-2257955/
Member
Jan 19, 2013
315 posts
147 upvotes
613
shane716 wrote:
Jan 15th, 2019 11:55 pm
Trying to connect my humidifier to Ecobee 3.
I've done some research, and here is my plan.

The current wiring for the humidifier is this

IMG_5451.JPG


Some close up pictures
Furnance control board

IMG_2705.JPG


Note that the black wires connecting to the C & W1 terminals are for the humidifier

Humidifier

IMG_7278.JPG


Humidistat

IMG_7861.JPG


Ecobee 3

IMG_0312.JPG


My plan is to disconnect the black wires from the C & W1 terminals in the furnace, and from the valve on the humidifier. Cap and tape the exposed ends of the now un-used black wires.
Then I use this FAS/LVT Copper Thermostat Electrical Cable - 18/2 Brown.
Connect the black to C terminal and the white to the W1 terminal in the furnace
Run it to the humidifier, cut open the overall brown jacket and cut the white wire apart. (the black wire is not cut)
Connect each of the white ends to one of the wires on the humidifier valve.
Keep running the cable to my Ecobee 3, connect the black and white wires to the ACC+ and ACC- terminals on the Ecobee 3.

I have a few questions for this plan.

1. Is the cable I'm using going to be okay for the humidifier?
2. There is no HUM terminal on the furnace control board, will this be an issue?
3. Any other comments and concerns?
Cable is ok
No hum is fine
What I would do is run 2 wire from solenoid to furnace.
You can wire up humidifier with 1 wire(24v hot) from tstat to that 2 wire from solenoid. Other wire goes to “c”
Then use that extra wire for w2 at tstat and furnace for true 2 stage control rather than timer on board.
Member
Jan 19, 2013
315 posts
147 upvotes
613
jmichou wrote:
Jan 14th, 2019 11:00 pm
Hi there,
I am looking for some help on my furnace situation. It's an old 2007 Carrier Two stage furnace which died this evening.

1) Long story short, my furnace wasn't working this evening when I got home and called someone to check it out. He said that the Igniter needs to be replaced however, by law, he also has to check the level of carbon monoxide inside the house and through the flue. If it's above 100PPM, he will have to tag my furnace and we won't be able to use it until it's repaired.
Is that correct?
If I didn't have this igniter issue, we wouldn't have known and life goes on but now, we got no heat and very frustrated.

2) During our conversation, he is recommending to replace the furnace as it's quite old and the motor is getting squeaky which will fail very soon. The other reason for replacement is to take advantage of the manufacturers rebate ($700 if I go with Carrier/Bryant) and IESO rebate.($250).
He is suggesting a similar two stage furnace (Carrier 59TP6A100 $3800 or Bryant 926TA60100 $3500 + tax).
I don't like to be put on spot like that and the challenge is that I don't have enough time to ask for multiple quotes. Now I am locked in to agree on a price that he is quoting me.

So here are my questions:
How do I choose between Carrier and Bryant if they are from the same manufacturer? What about Lennox from Costco?
The price includes labor. Is the price reasonable?
Should I even get a quote from Enercare?

Your help is very much appreciated.
Thank you.
Those Carrier and Bryant listed is same internals. Just different badge and paint colour

No issues with pricing
Costco Lennox is going to me more
Enercare is going to be even more
For equivalent models
Newbie
May 8, 2013
1 posts
Hello,

Live in a condo with a two pipe fan coil system. When the set point of the thermostat is set above room temperature, the actuator (Honeywell VC8111ZZ11) will decide to not open the in line value for the system. Only way to resume normal function is if I manually open the value using the manual lever on the actuator. The actuator will then start operating as expected for a day or so via then cease to work again. Then you have to repeat the manual process to get things working again.

I first thought it might be a bad or sticky valve but I can't measure any power going to the actuator when the system is telling the actuator to open the value. I would have expected to see something on the multi-meter or at least I would be able to feel the actuator get warm from struggling to open the value, but nope.

Thermostat (NEST) is working properly and is sending the correct signal (~24V) to the control panel. Even more fun is that the actuator was replaced last week so I don't think it's the actuator causing the issue. Only thing left I can think of is the control board, but that's going to be a pain to swap out.

Any one have any ideas?
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 21, 2009
1800 posts
300 upvotes
Ottawa
stannie wrote:
Jan 16th, 2019 10:11 pm
Got a Enbridge Red Tag B for my Furnace reference code 4.7.3 saying the yellow piping has to be bonded. I live in a condo and thought that the whole building pipe system is bonded. Anyone know how much this will cost to have the tag taken off and anyone else with a similar situation
The condo has a HVAC unit and was built in 2004.
link with pics to see how much it costs to be bonded

got-enbridge-red-tag-b-my-furnace-refer ... 3-2257955/
How much it costs depends how far away the gas piping is to the water main coming into your home, and how much they charge per hour, etc... Or you can save a ton of money doing it yourself:
Bonding is just a large gauge multi-strand copper pipe joining the black (steel) pipe to the copper pipe.

You attache one of these on both the steel and copper pipe:

Click here for link to clamp

Identify the closest copper pipe to the gas piping, measure that distance, and and purchase a little bit more in #6 AWG multi strand bare copper wire. a.k.a. bonding wire.
Attach the bonding clamps to the steel and copper pipes, then join them with the copper wire.
Call in an inspection, mentioning that the homeowner (you) have done the repairs/modifications as stipulated in the red tag. They will send over a gas contractor that works with under contract with Enbridge to inspect your work.

This is how it should look:

Image

Or you can call a contractor and get charged a few hundred bucks. Personally, I wouldn't do pay for it because it's such a simple do-it-yourself job that isn't connecting to live power, with zero risks of electrical shock.
If you like my post, please upvote! :)
Putting people and solutions together since 1995
Need quick advice? Email me at office@fixit2sellit.com
Newbie
Oct 14, 2015
58 posts
16 upvotes
Thornhill, ON
Hello,

I have an issue with my furnace and I would appreciate any help. I have an ecobee 3 and I knew it had been calling for heat but the temperature never arises (ecobee gave out a warning as well). I tested my vents and there is air coming out, but at a less-than-normal volume and the air is warm at best.

I went down to check the furnace and it had power and was running. Only weird thing is that it seems to be struggling hard for air as I can see the furnace filter is bent slightly toward the furnace. The furnace is also producing a high-pitch squealing noise. It might be a dirty filter issue but I only replaced the filter about 2 weeks ago. I will try putting in a new filter tonight regardless and see if it improves, but I would like to know if there could be anything else that might be causing the issue.

In case that it is indeed the filter, any idea why the filter is clogging up so fast (within only 2 weeks)? My fan is set to run at least 5min/hr if that's relevant.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Deal Addict
Nov 14, 2006
1207 posts
444 upvotes
GTA
R5Ty1e wrote:
Jan 25th, 2019 1:14 pm
Hello,

I have an issue with my furnace and I would appreciate any help. I have an ecobee 3 and I knew it had been calling for heat but the temperature never arises (ecobee gave out a warning as well). I tested my vents and there is air coming out, but at a less-than-normal volume and the air is warm at best.

I went down to check the furnace and it had power and was running. Only weird thing is that it seems to be struggling hard for air as I can see the furnace filter is bent slightly toward the furnace. The furnace is also producing a high-pitch squealing noise. It might be a dirty filter issue but I only replaced the filter about 2 weeks ago. I will try putting in a new filter tonight regardless and see if it improves, but I would like to know if there could be anything else that might be causing the issue.

In case that it is indeed the filter, any idea why the filter is clogging up so fast (within only 2 weeks)? My fan is set to run at least 5min/hr if that's relevant.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Has it been running fine up until now? nothing has changed) if so.... if its not running right check for error/failed flash codes on board, make sure filter clean (more efficient filter more restriction that may cause noises), all return air vents are clear, supply registers open.

Sounds like air flow restriction in your duct work , check what I said also maybe get a less efficient filter.
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Mar 13, 2004
8886 posts
1315 upvotes
Toronto, Ontario
You can temporarily run the furnace without a filter to see if that makes a difference however I doubt it.

Turn off the power switch to the furnace (in the furnace room) and turn it back on see if it starts working properly.
R5Ty1e wrote:
Jan 25th, 2019 1:14 pm
Hello,

I have an issue with my furnace and I would appreciate any help. I have an ecobee 3 and I knew it had been calling for heat but the temperature never arises (ecobee gave out a warning as well). I tested my vents and there is air coming out, but at a less-than-normal volume and the air is warm at best.

I went down to check the furnace and it had power and was running. Only weird thing is that it seems to be struggling hard for air as I can see the furnace filter is bent slightly toward the furnace. The furnace is also producing a high-pitch squealing noise. It might be a dirty filter issue but I only replaced the filter about 2 weeks ago. I will try putting in a new filter tonight regardless and see if it improves, but I would like to know if there could be anything else that might be causing the issue.

In case that it is indeed the filter, any idea why the filter is clogging up so fast (within only 2 weeks)? My fan is set to run at least 5min/hr if that's relevant.

Thanks in advance for your help!
0_o
<_<
>_>
Sr. Member
Oct 9, 2011
631 posts
240 upvotes
GTA
Can you take a look outside and check whether ice has frozen over the pipe where the fresh air goes inside?
1 x Zoomer Wireless $36 loyalty plans - 4 GB of data!
5 x Freedom Mobile plans
Ecobee 3 Lite courtesy of Green On (ie tax payers)
Newbie
Oct 14, 2015
58 posts
16 upvotes
Thornhill, ON
Thanks all for the input. I changed the filter last night and it did resolve the issue.

Now the mystery is, how come the filter gets clogged up after only two weeks. FWIW, I’m only using MERV 8 filters and no pets.

Return air duct leak? Dirty duct (just did a duct cleaning last summer)?
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Mar 13, 2004
8886 posts
1315 upvotes
Toronto, Ontario
Was it actually dirty could you see it in the filter a lot or your just assuming because you changed the filter and it started working better?
R5Ty1e wrote:
Jan 26th, 2019 8:59 am
Thanks all for the input. I changed the filter last night and it did resolve the issue.

Now the mystery is, how come the filter gets clogged up after only two weeks. FWIW, I’m only using MERV 8 filters and no pets.

Return air duct leak? Dirty duct (just did a duct cleaning last summer)?
0_o
<_<
>_>
Deal Addict
Nov 14, 2006
1207 posts
444 upvotes
GTA
R5Ty1e wrote:
Jan 26th, 2019 8:59 am
Thanks all for the input. I changed the filter last night and it did resolve the issue.

Now the mystery is, how come the filter gets clogged up after only two weeks. FWIW, I’m only using MERV 8 filters and no pets.

Return air duct leak? Dirty duct (just did a duct cleaning last summer)?
Buy a less efficient filter if its getting plugged up to fast for you.
Also same filter, same furnace , same house may need to be changed more often as it all depends on how many people live in the house? any animals? furnace fan on or set to auto?
Newbie
Oct 14, 2015
58 posts
16 upvotes
Thornhill, ON
Thanks all. It’s most likely filter because: 1. Before I changed it, the old filter want bent towards the furnace, indicating a less than ideal air passing thru it; 2. It did resolve the issue (I tried to turn off and on the furnace before Channing the filter and it didn’t work)

There are 4 people, no pet. With a merv8 filter, I thought 2 weeks is just too short. Any idea?
Deal Addict
Feb 4, 2015
4042 posts
1132 upvotes
Canada, Eh!!
We've changed filters after 2 weeks and after 8 weeks... just check regularly.

Now just using basic fibreglass filters... been using for quite a while and no issues... used to have filters in past where you could physically see them pulled in on one side by furnace fan.

Every house different so even with same furnace you will not get same filter usage.

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