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Ask me anything about HVAC heating air conditioning air quality control

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Nov 21, 2009
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Shaf wrote:
Mar 2nd, 2010 3:09 pm
Safety Issue?
Please read a post I made on the previous page - I added some thoughts about the gas valve or burner. It's a very slim chance of that happening, so I don't want to be an alarmist - but stranger things have happened before so I can never bee to cautious.
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Shaf wrote:
Mar 2nd, 2010 3:10 pm
Another question... what do people do to control dust? I find lately that even after vacuuming, dust collects again very soon.
Well, it depends on how much money the people feel like suing to solve the dust problem.

The very least should be a 5" MERV-11 rated pleated filter - like the one ElectroAir (5 Seasons) makes.

The very best should be a filter like the American Standard Accuclean.

what kind of furnace do you have (make and model number would tell me lots). The reason I ask is that if you operate your furnace's blower continuously, you will keep a lot of the airborne dust in motion, and suck it into the the ductwork. Then your furnace's filter will trap the dust. After a few days of doing this, you should see a dramatic improvement in the air quality in your home.
Note: filters do not solve the problem 100%: you still have the dust that is coming into your home - if you live in an environment that has lots of dust int eh air (near highways, etc...), then you could look at sealing your home better to reduce the influx of dust.
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May 5, 2003
4879 posts
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Toronto, Ontario
Limoges_shopper wrote:
Mar 2nd, 2010 3:22 pm
Well, it depends on how much money the people feel like suing to solve the dust problem.

The very least should be a 5" MERV-11 rated pleated filter - like the one ElectroAir (5 Seasons) makes.

The very best should be a filter like the American Standard Accuclean.

what kind of furnace do you have (make and model number would tell me lots). The reason I ask is that if you operate your furnace's blower continuously, you will keep a lot of the airborne dust in motion, and suck it into the the ductwork. Then your furnace's filter will trap the dust. After a few days of doing this, you should see a dramatic improvement in the air quality in your home.
Note: filters do not solve the problem 100%: you still have the dust that is coming into your home - if you live in an environment that has lots of dust int eh air (near highways, etc...), then you could look at sealing your home better to reduce the influx of dust.
Here is my make and model:

Trane XE90
Sr. Member
Apr 5, 2003
773 posts
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White Rock, BC
Not sure if this is the place to post, but I'll give it a shot.

I currently have an unfinished basement, I want to finish it. I would like to relocate my furnace and hot water tank to another area of the basement.

How much work is involved and how much would this cost? Do I need any sort of permits or inspections?

The area I want to move it to has some plumbing going right into the concrete so I was told the water tank could be hooked into that somehow. My brother in law is a plumber, so he can do the plumbing and also bringing the gas over, he's just not around a lot and I would like someone else's opinion.
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Jul 17, 2003
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Hello,

My parents are thinking of upgrading the HVAC in their 1700sqft townhouse + 600sqft basement.

So far these are the quotes that we've received. I've read through parts of this thread, but I still don't have a complete understanding of all the different models, brands, and specification.

I was hoping some of you guys can critique the models that we've been quoted so far, and also the prices.

Thanks in advance!

Also, if any of you have a recommended installer in the Scarborough area, please PM me. So far we have only looked at Chinese companies b/c it's easier for my mom to speak to them in Chinese.

Here is a screenshot of our prices from 4 different companies thus far.

[IMG]http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/1147 ... grades.jpg[/IMG]
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noodles wrote:
Mar 2nd, 2010 5:36 pm
Not sure if this is the place to post, but I'll give it a shot.

I currently have an unfinished basement, I want to finish it. I would like to relocate my furnace and hot water tank to another area of the basement.

How much work is involved and how much would this cost? Do I need any sort of permits or inspections?

The area I want to move it to has some plumbing going right into the concrete so I was told the water tank could be hooked into that somehow. My brother in law is a plumber, so he can do the plumbing and also bringing the gas over, he's just not around a lot and I would like someone else's opinion.
It actually quite a big job: the entire supply and return air trunks need to be dropped and redesigned. You can expect to just rotate them, and expect the system to work.
Plus the relocating of the venting, gas piping, and dedicated electrical supply.
How much will this cost (to do properly)? Anywhere from $2,500.00 to $4,000.00 - It's a multi-day job, plus there are design fees involved, and new materials because the old transitions won't be in the correct location, plus you will have new obstructions to overcome.

I do not believe you need a permit (check with your local building authority - typically the city), but you MUST have a licensed Residential Air Systems Designer design the new system. And since this system is existing, you will need the designer to come over and do a survey - expect at least $400.00 just for the survey, design and material list.

Good luck! :)
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aZnRYcEbOi wrote:
Mar 2nd, 2010 7:41 pm
Hello,

My parents are thinking of upgrading the HVAC in their 1700sqft townhouse + 600sqft basement.

So far these are the quotes that we've received. I've read through parts of this thread, but I still don't have a complete understanding of all the different models, brands, and specification.

I was hoping some of you guys can critique the models that we've been quoted so far, and also the prices.

Thanks in advance!

Also, if any of you have a recommended installer in the Scarborough area, please PM me. So far we have only looked at Chinese companies b/c it's easier for my mom to speak to them in Chinese.

Here is a screenshot of our prices from 4 different companies thus far.
It sure looks like 3 of those companies are selling real cheap equipment - too bad. The reality is that after a few years, you'll notice the difference when you have to pay for repairs...
My advice is to stay away from the one offering only 2 years labour warranty - means they are not a reliable company in my opinion.
I don't like Rheem/Rudd - just don't like the small tubes of their heat exchangers. So that means Lennox is the only one of the bunch that I kinda like... Can't you get prices for American Standard or Carrier? Their products are so much better than the competition: more modern, and using better technology.
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Newbie
Jan 4, 2006
19 posts
Hi,
Our home comes with a Keepright/Tempstar HE furnace (single stage + PSC motor.) I'd like to replace the PSC motor with an ECM motor. Can this be done ?
Thanks.
~M
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Aug 30, 2005
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Hi,

Do you have any recommendation for an air cleaner for my small shop (8x13ft). The options I have seen are between 200-300$. King Canada KAC-410 & KAC-650. I'd be doing some wood work so i'd get wood dust and maybe drywall dust too...

I'm already installing dust collection pipes from my tools to my shopvac and adding a HEPA filter+bag to my shopvac, but this is not good enough, I can still see some dust going in the air. I heard getting a shop air cleaner would make it better for the smaller dust particles vs larger wood shavings.

Thanks,
Francois
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mike2006 wrote:
Mar 3rd, 2010 10:02 am
Hi,
Our home comes with a Keepright/Tempstar HE furnace (single stage + PSC motor.) I'd like to replace the PSC motor with an ECM motor. Can this be done ?
Thanks.
~M
Typical builder: nice home, crappy furnace... And, no: you can't upgrade the furnace to variable speed. :(
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frank2162 wrote:
Mar 3rd, 2010 5:35 pm
Hi,

Do you have any recommendation for an air cleaner for my small shop (8x13ft). The options I have seen are between 200-300$. King Canada KAC-410 & KAC-650. I'd be doing some wood work so i'd get wood dust and maybe drywall dust too...

I'm already installing dust collection pipes from my tools to my shopvac and adding a HEPA filter+bag to my shopvac, but this is not good enough, I can still see some dust going in the air. I heard getting a shop air cleaner would make it better for the smaller dust particles vs larger wood shavings.

Thanks,
Francois
Hi Francois,

IT looks like a good price fro an air handler/filter. If you look at a 5-micron sized particle, and you're satisfied that removing 99% of them are good enough(as well as 85% of 1-5 micron particles), then I'd go with that. The decision becomes one of air quality, and how clean you want your air to be (you'll never get 100% clean in your environment because of the constant influx of dust). With the low cost of the King unit, it's worth it - it can only improve the air in your shop. I wouldn't go with the bigger unit: I think the noise and the airflow would be too much for your small shop. Plus, it comes with a remote control and timer feature - not bad for the price, and a low business expense / gamble.
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Oct 27, 2005
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Toronto
I went off to vacation for the last 1 month and turned the thermostat down in my house to 11C. Now I'm back and I see the heat pump outside is completely frozen and the fan blades inside don't turn. Am I screwed? what should I do? The temperature indoors is still 11C though...
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May 24, 2003
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beehive wrote:
Mar 3rd, 2010 8:53 pm
I went off to vacation for the last 1 month and turned the thermostat down in my house to 11C. Now I'm back and I see the heat pump outside is completely frozen and the fan blades inside don't turn. Am I screwed? what should I do? The temperature indoors is still 11C though...
You have back up electric heat that is why it is still warm in your house. You have a leak, the condenser fan is bad, bad board, defrost is no good, etc... Nobody here can tell you what is wrong with your unit without looking at it.

At least you have back up heat. i know posting on here is a waste of time trying to figure out your problem. Time to call a tech.
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beehive wrote:
Mar 3rd, 2010 8:53 pm
I went off to vacation for the last 1 month and turned the thermostat down in my house to 11C. Now I'm back and I see the heat pump outside is completely frozen and the fan blades inside don't turn. Am I screwed? what should I do? The temperature indoors is still 11C though...
Munchos wrote:
Mar 3rd, 2010 9:13 pm
You have back up electric heat that is why it is still warm in your house. You have a leak, the condenser fan is bad, bad board, defrost is no good, etc... Nobody here can tell you what is wrong with your unit without looking at it.

At least you have back up heat. i know posting on here is a waste of time trying to figure out your problem. Time to call a tech.
I agree: time for the experts to look at it.
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Apr 18, 2005
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When the old furnace is replaced with a new one, are they supposed to tag the unit certifying that it's been tested or serviced? We replaced our furnace and the old tag was removed but they didn't leave a new one. :confused:

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