Ask me AA Men's suits and shirts | Article: History of the Suit
New Article (3/14/2012): History of the Suit Read Post #2.
Monthly Shirt Fabric choices. Read Post #3.
If you find this thread useful, "thanks" and 5 star ratings would be much appreciated
Previous Articles: please take a look at IM-Label.com/blog for our full list of articles
_________________________________________________
I am in the custom tailoring business and would like to be of assistance to anybody that have questions on men's suits and shirts, particularly within the custom tailoring area.
I'm going to reserve the next couple of posts for a FAQ list and will also be writing small articles on men's suits and shirts (that are will also be posted at our blog)
Look forward to reading your posts!
Pennyarcade
IM-Label
________________________________
FAQ
NEW: How is a suit supposed to fit?
Here is a good link from Esquire showing how a suit should fit. Most people that buy off the rack (OTR) know that the suit should cut in and the shoulders should fit well, but the ignore the length of the jacket. Length is just as important, else you will look like you have stubby little legs or worse, too short for you. Make sure you go for Tall or Short if Regular OTR don't fit the length guideline. Of course, you can avoid all of this and go with made to measure.
I'm confused about ties, could you help me?
There are three main tie knots in use today: Four in Hand, Half Windsor and Full Windsor.
To learn how to tie these knots, please visit this link.
A few comments on ties:
What exactly is Business Formal and Business Casual?
Business formal: Full suit, shirt and tie
Business casual: Full suit and shirt (top button undone)
The only difference between the two is a tie. Business casual is not just shirt and pants. If you don't know what attire is appropriate for your workplace/event, then always go more formal. You can always take the tie off and undo a button if the environment dictates it.
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What are the rules with buttons on a suit jacket?
Never do up the bottom button on a 2 or 3 button suit. This is a carryover from the when King Edward VII was too heavy to button up his bottom button and it stuck as a fashion statement. I can't believe how many men I see wearing their suit with all the buttons done up. The suits are designed to look their best with the bottom button undone, so look your best and undo that bottom button.
For double breasted suits, never undo any buttons in public.
You can unbutton a suit jacket completely when you are seated, but be sure to rebutton when standing.
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I want to buy a suit, what are my options?
There are basically three ways to buy. Shirts also have a similar breakdown.
1. Off the rack[INDENT]
This is usually the first way people buy a suit. Go to any men's clothing store and you'll see a multitude of styles and colors.
The advantages are: you get the product immediately, you can buy brand name (if that's your thing) and there are way more off the rack locations than the other options.
The disadvantages are: the product will likely not fit you well and you'll be spending quite a bit of money on a brand name. Also, you cannot choose options since the suit is already made.
Bottom Line: Off the rack it is sometimes the only way to go to buy a suit or shirt due to time constraints, but I try to avoid it when possible and rather spend my money on quality. If you do go this route, try to find places that will do alterations for free because you WILL need an alteration to look your best.[/INDENT]
2. Bespoke
[INDENT]
This option is the total opposite of off the rack and it can make you feel like a king! Meaning "spoken for" in old english, bespoke is a complete custom suit from the ground up, just for you. These master tailors are few and far between, will require a number of visits, and will cost in the 4 figures.
The advantages are: you will get the best fitting suit, following every contour and hiding imperfections. You will be able to choose exactly what you want on your suit. You love a particular Canali suit that you saw in GQ? take that picture and show it to a bespoke shop and they will likely be able to make you a suit that looks like it. The service will be exquisite, catering to almost any need.
The disadvantages are: $$$$$$$. These will START from $1000, and that's with mediocre fabric. The time from order and finish could take anywhere from 1-2 months, with multiple visits required from the client to test the fit of the suit as it is being made.
Bottom Line: Sometimes this is the only way a demanding person can find satisfaction in a suit. If you've tried the other options and can't find what you need, go this route. Be warned, do your homework and find a reputable bespoke shop or you may get scammed.[/INDENT]
1. Made to measure (MTM)[INDENT]
MTM straddles between the off the rack and bespoke. Once a client chooses the style, fabric and gets measured, a standard template for the suit style will be scaled to the client's measurements and built.
The advantages are: you can choose the options, styling and fabrics that you want. It is much cheaper thank bespoke and sometimes have prices comparable to off the rack, usually with better quality.
The disadvantages are: the lead time is typically a month. You will not be able to see your suit until it is finished (and usually paid for), relying on the MTM's quality standards. Again, do your homework. Visit their location and ask questions: see their quality, ask if they have suits made for other clients.
Bottom Line: MTM is a good compromise between off the rack and bespoke. You can choose how the suit details and have it built so that it fits you, all for the price you would typically pay at a off the rack location. Sure, it takes a some time to see the final product, but find a good MTM store and you'll be set for life. Also note that you should look for an MTM store that provides free alterations after the product is done. Even though the suit is MTM, it usually needs some minor alterations to make you look your best.[/INDENT]
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What are the rules with belts, shoes and socks?
The color of the belt and shoes should be the same.
Socks should match the color of your trousers, not your shoes. Socks are there to "continue" the illusion of your trouser legs down to the shoe. The result? a longer looking leg and a way to show off your nice shoes (be sure to have nice shoes! They are important). If you match the sock color to your shoe color, it breaks the illusion and makes you look shorter.
Shoes should be a darker tone than your pants. So light brown shoes should not be worn with black pants nor dark brown pants.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
What other online resources are useful for me?
StyleForum.net: A great resource for any person. Not just business wear, but also for everything in clothing.
askandyaboutclothes: Another great resource on men's clothing. A more formal and classy approach. Also, his encyclopedia on men's clothing is a great resource if you want to know everything on clothing etiquette.
Monthly Shirt Fabric choices. Read Post #3.
If you find this thread useful, "thanks" and 5 star ratings would be much appreciated
Previous Articles: please take a look at IM-Label.com/blog for our full list of articles
_________________________________________________
I am in the custom tailoring business and would like to be of assistance to anybody that have questions on men's suits and shirts, particularly within the custom tailoring area.
I'm going to reserve the next couple of posts for a FAQ list and will also be writing small articles on men's suits and shirts (that are will also be posted at our blog)
Look forward to reading your posts!
Pennyarcade
IM-Label
________________________________
FAQ
NEW: How is a suit supposed to fit?
Here is a good link from Esquire showing how a suit should fit. Most people that buy off the rack (OTR) know that the suit should cut in and the shoulders should fit well, but the ignore the length of the jacket. Length is just as important, else you will look like you have stubby little legs or worse, too short for you. Make sure you go for Tall or Short if Regular OTR don't fit the length guideline. Of course, you can avoid all of this and go with made to measure.
I'm confused about ties, could you help me?
There are three main tie knots in use today: Four in Hand, Half Windsor and Full Windsor.
To learn how to tie these knots, please visit this link.
A few comments on ties:
- The tie end should end up around your belt buckle. Shorter and it looks like you don't know how to properly tie a tie. Any longer and it looks like you are trying to direct people to look at your crotch.
- Four in hand is great for thin ties since it has a small knot. They are also reserved for less formal occasions and go well with narrow collars.
- Half Windsor is good for almost any occasion. You can use it with both regular and spread collars.
- Full Windsor is a formal knot that conveys a bold statement and has the best symmetry. You can use it with both regular and spread collars, but is more appropriate for spread collars.
- To add the dimple, simply pinch the middle of tie with your index finger before tightening the knot and tighten. This will take some practice to get it right, and is most appropriate on the Half and Full Windsor knot.
What exactly is Business Formal and Business Casual?
Business formal: Full suit, shirt and tie
Business casual: Full suit and shirt (top button undone)
The only difference between the two is a tie. Business casual is not just shirt and pants. If you don't know what attire is appropriate for your workplace/event, then always go more formal. You can always take the tie off and undo a button if the environment dictates it.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
What are the rules with buttons on a suit jacket?
Never do up the bottom button on a 2 or 3 button suit. This is a carryover from the when King Edward VII was too heavy to button up his bottom button and it stuck as a fashion statement. I can't believe how many men I see wearing their suit with all the buttons done up. The suits are designed to look their best with the bottom button undone, so look your best and undo that bottom button.
For double breasted suits, never undo any buttons in public.
You can unbutton a suit jacket completely when you are seated, but be sure to rebutton when standing.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
I want to buy a suit, what are my options?
There are basically three ways to buy. Shirts also have a similar breakdown.
1. Off the rack[INDENT]
This is usually the first way people buy a suit. Go to any men's clothing store and you'll see a multitude of styles and colors.
The advantages are: you get the product immediately, you can buy brand name (if that's your thing) and there are way more off the rack locations than the other options.
The disadvantages are: the product will likely not fit you well and you'll be spending quite a bit of money on a brand name. Also, you cannot choose options since the suit is already made.
Bottom Line: Off the rack it is sometimes the only way to go to buy a suit or shirt due to time constraints, but I try to avoid it when possible and rather spend my money on quality. If you do go this route, try to find places that will do alterations for free because you WILL need an alteration to look your best.[/INDENT]
2. Bespoke
[INDENT]
This option is the total opposite of off the rack and it can make you feel like a king! Meaning "spoken for" in old english, bespoke is a complete custom suit from the ground up, just for you. These master tailors are few and far between, will require a number of visits, and will cost in the 4 figures.
The advantages are: you will get the best fitting suit, following every contour and hiding imperfections. You will be able to choose exactly what you want on your suit. You love a particular Canali suit that you saw in GQ? take that picture and show it to a bespoke shop and they will likely be able to make you a suit that looks like it. The service will be exquisite, catering to almost any need.
The disadvantages are: $$$$$$$. These will START from $1000, and that's with mediocre fabric. The time from order and finish could take anywhere from 1-2 months, with multiple visits required from the client to test the fit of the suit as it is being made.
Bottom Line: Sometimes this is the only way a demanding person can find satisfaction in a suit. If you've tried the other options and can't find what you need, go this route. Be warned, do your homework and find a reputable bespoke shop or you may get scammed.[/INDENT]
1. Made to measure (MTM)[INDENT]
MTM straddles between the off the rack and bespoke. Once a client chooses the style, fabric and gets measured, a standard template for the suit style will be scaled to the client's measurements and built.
The advantages are: you can choose the options, styling and fabrics that you want. It is much cheaper thank bespoke and sometimes have prices comparable to off the rack, usually with better quality.
The disadvantages are: the lead time is typically a month. You will not be able to see your suit until it is finished (and usually paid for), relying on the MTM's quality standards. Again, do your homework. Visit their location and ask questions: see their quality, ask if they have suits made for other clients.
Bottom Line: MTM is a good compromise between off the rack and bespoke. You can choose how the suit details and have it built so that it fits you, all for the price you would typically pay at a off the rack location. Sure, it takes a some time to see the final product, but find a good MTM store and you'll be set for life. Also note that you should look for an MTM store that provides free alterations after the product is done. Even though the suit is MTM, it usually needs some minor alterations to make you look your best.[/INDENT]
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
What are the rules with belts, shoes and socks?
The color of the belt and shoes should be the same.
Socks should match the color of your trousers, not your shoes. Socks are there to "continue" the illusion of your trouser legs down to the shoe. The result? a longer looking leg and a way to show off your nice shoes (be sure to have nice shoes! They are important). If you match the sock color to your shoe color, it breaks the illusion and makes you look shorter.
Shoes should be a darker tone than your pants. So light brown shoes should not be worn with black pants nor dark brown pants.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
What other online resources are useful for me?
StyleForum.net: A great resource for any person. Not just business wear, but also for everything in clothing.
askandyaboutclothes: Another great resource on men's clothing. A more formal and classy approach. Also, his encyclopedia on men's clothing is a great resource if you want to know everything on clothing etiquette.