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Ask me anything about spray foam insulation

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  • Oct 30th, 2019 10:16 pm
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Mar 11, 2007
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QC
PeterLN wrote:
Feb 26th, 2014 10:05 pm

Could I recommend someone in Montreal? I’m sorry, but I don’t feel comfortable recommending anyone because I simply cannot be certain they will do the kind of quality work I would approve of. The best way to go about it is to find a contractor through The Canadian Urethane Foam Contractors Association (www.cufca.ca). Look for one using Polar Foam Soya / Heat Lock Soya; they’re quality products and so at least you know you’re dealing with someone not skimping on material costs.

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Peter
Owner, VIPFoam.com
I don't think Polarfoam is sold in QC, Demilec has a lot of name for their product, in QC it's either Heatlok Soy or Airmetic Soya. Call for price, and ask about what they are doin and what they are not. Some company will charge extra to cover your stuff and some don't. When I did my basement last summer (1000 sq/ft coverage), I had price for ~3000 to 4200.

Good luck
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Mississauga
BartBandy wrote:
Feb 27th, 2014 9:16 am
Timely thread. Thanks.

Is there any noticeable difference between brands of 2 lb closed cell spray foam for a basement application? I was going to get BASF because, (a) it seems popular and (b) it's a pretty purple (kidding, it will be behind drywall). The spray foam contractor I got a quote from uses this product, but they quoted Proline Plus 200, saying it was R7/in instead of R6/in. There seem to be multiple different ways to measure R value, by different testing standards, and it looks like he's not comparing results using the same test.

Does it matter? Am I being a pedant?
The best way to go about it is to download the technical data sheet for each product. The 4 most important things to look at are as follows:

-LTTR (long term thermal resistance): most foams are around 7 initially and go down to 5 or 6. As far as I know there is only one or two foams that are classified as a type 2 (Polarfoam soya/Heatlok soya) which means it will not go below R6 per inch. Most, including the ones you mentioned, are type 1(R5 in the long run per inch).

-Core Density: the closer it is to being 2lb the better it insulates. When you have other foams which should be 2.6lb according to manufacturer specs, then some installers are tempted to fudge the settings and install it hot and quick reducing density and increasing profit, as seen on CBC Marketplace.

-The open cell content: you are paying for a closed cell foam so the lower the better. Polarfoam being the lowest (less than 1%) and others claming to be less then 8%!?!

-Flame Spread: again Polarfoam being the least but don’t take my word for it, look for yourself. One more thing that I truly believe in being important is where it’s made...only one foam brand is made right here in this beautiful country. That’s right: Polarfoam soya/Heatlok soya.

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Peter
Owner, VIPFoam.com
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Mar 11, 2007
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QC
Basf is doin type 1 and type 2 spray foam. You want the type 2. Check the version you were quoted.
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Sep 2, 2002
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No, it's Proline Plus 200 I was quoted.

Thanks for the info. This is a type 2 foam, and while it's specs are about the same as the BASF type 2 foam. LTTR is R5.7 (1.0 RSI) per inch, 6% open cell content, Plus, this guy has been very good with me.
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Feb 8, 2014
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How does spray foam handle radiative heat?
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Quentin5 wrote:
Feb 28th, 2014 10:11 pm
How does spray foam handle radiative heat?
Heat loss happens in three major ways: convection, conduction, and radiation. Because of the cell structure of the closed cell foam, when radiative heat goes against the foam it will have to turn into convection form. More on this here: http://cufca.ca/docs/R-Value%20Fairy%20Tale.pdf.

Quality installed, 2lb closed cell foam is ideal for all forms of heat loss.

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Peter
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How thick do you usually lay down foam in an attic?
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Quentin5 wrote:
Mar 9th, 2014 6:25 pm
How thick do you usually lay down foam in an attic?
When doing a ceiling with an attic space above, you’ll often hear it recommended to go with R50. This is about 7 1/2" of the good quality foam (type 2) or 8 1/2" of the generic type 1. To me, this is ridiculous; belt and suspenders X 10. R50 blown in fibrous insulation yes, but not closed cell spray foam. The building code goes by "R values" only (see the article I linked to in my lat post). Why would an industrial blast freezer only require 4 1/2" to 5" and a residential home need double that? Also when applying foam to flat roofs or sloped ceilings the code is R31 4 1/2" to 5" depending on the foam; in my opinion this is correct.

Because of all the high costs of retrofitting an existing attic (old insulation removal plus cost of installing foam), a lot of the time people choose to just have it topped off with more blown-in insulation. But if foam is what you’re after and on a budget, consider having 2" to 3" installed to give you that first initial seal and thermal break and then have blown in fibre on top. This combination works well, costs less and makes building inspectors happy that they have their "R value".

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Peter
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Mar 15, 2010
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Winnipeg
I would like to insulate my garage with 2x4 studs. I am located in Winnipeg and with the winter's I'm thinking of spraying the whole 4" and make the foam flush with the stud. Waste of money? Should I use spray foam for inbetween the trusses for the roof and ceiling?
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frisco204 wrote:
Mar 12th, 2014 2:49 am
I would like to insulate my garage with 2x4 studs. I am located in Winnipeg and with the winter's I'm thinking of spraying the whole 4" and make the foam flush with the stud. Waste of money? Should I use spray foam for inbetween the trusses for the roof and ceiling?
To foam fill a cavity 100% is not easy. Basically you have to over fill it and then trim it flush. So someone has to pay for the wasted material and added labour of trimming. It is far better to have it sprayed up to 1/2" away from the stud face, usually 3" on 2×4(2×4 = 3 1/2"). I do have a contact in Winnipeg that would be able to help you. Just contact Keith Bowie at Ecologic: (204) 509-FOAM. Tell him that Peter from VIP Foam sent you and I am sure that he will take care of you.

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Peter
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Dec 17, 2007
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Alliston, ON
Peter,
The Builder of my house Spray foamed some sections in the garage. They filled the 2x4 wall and then trimmed it flush. I noticed that they had some of the imperfections circled (holes, cut to much of, didn't fill completely). Is this something i should be getting them to fix? or is it not a big deal?

Thanks
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schade wrote:
Mar 12th, 2014 10:34 pm
Peter,
The Builder of my house Spray foamed some sections in the garage. They filled the 2x4 wall and then trimmed it flush. I noticed that they had some of the imperfections circled (holes, cut to much of, didn't fill completely). Is this something i should be getting them to fix? or is it not a big deal?

Thanks
Majority of that looks fine. Seems like when they were cutting/pulling off the extra foam to make it flush it left those behind. They dont look that deep and should be fine. The only issue I see is 1 of the rows where I can see the 2x4 wood, it looks like that part may go deep and it not sealed to the wood. They should repair that However they wont send the sprayfoam company out to fix that, they would probably go by a can of foam from home depot and fill it in, which is something you could do if you wanted.
0_o
<_<
>_>
[OP]
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schade wrote:
Mar 12th, 2014 10:34 pm
Peter,
The Builder of my house Spray foamed some sections in the garage. They filled the 2x4 wall and then trimmed it flush. I noticed that they had some of the imperfections circled (holes, cut to much of, didn't fill completely). Is this something i should be getting them to fix? or is it not a big deal?

Thanks
That’s not a big deal at all. What you have here is half pound open cell foam. 1/2" missing in a few places on a 2x4 only represents an R value of about 1 – 2. Also, that wall is insulated from the other side with fibreglass; the builder hopes for this to be an over kill application. Unfortunately it is 1/2 lb foam and you may notice that the room above may still get cold in winter or too hot in the summer. Builders use this product because it costs far less to be installed then 2lb closed cell. Most people don't know about the difference and when a builder has an entire subdivision to do then they want to save as much as possible.
minirx7 wrote:
Mar 13th, 2014 3:38 pm
How safe is Spray foam?

Read some of the comments at the bottom of this article and it is quite scary..
http://www.cbc.ca/marketplace/blog/is-spray-foam-safe
Please see my answer to this question in post #11 of this thread.

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Peter
Owner, VIPFoam.com
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Dec 17, 2007
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Alliston, ON
PeterLN wrote:
Mar 13th, 2014 9:53 pm
That’s not a big deal at all. What you have here is half pound open cell foam. 1/2" missing in a few places on a 2x4 only represents an R value of about 1 – 2. Also, that wall is insulated from the other side with fibreglass; the builder hopes for this to be an over kill application. Unfortunately it is 1/2 lb foam and you may notice that the room above may still get cold in winter or too hot in the summer. Builders use this product because it costs far less to be installed then 2lb closed cell. Most people don't know about the difference and when a builder has an entire subdivision to do then they want to save as much as possible.

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Peter
Owner, VIPFoam.com
If that does happen with the room above the garage. Can i add a few inch's of 2lb foam ontop of the 1/2lb foam already there? or would that create problems having 2 different types of foam?

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