Brake Work

[antichrysler]

I was hoping to get some advice. Yesterday I was driving my car and it started to squeal when I stop or slow down. Seems pretty likely to me that it needs some new brake pads. It isn't surprising to me since the car is an 07 Mazda 3 and has nearly 75,000kms on it on OEM pads.

My question is, is there an easy way of checking which pads need to be changed without paying an arm and a leg? I would assume it's the front but I'm not sure. Also... I checked with Kal Tire and I wasn't very impressed with the response I got. The guy said I have to change my brake pads, re-surface the rotors, and change my brake fluid for a total cost of $380. That seemed a bit high to me as well as a bit unnecessary. I've had pads changed on my previous car and it was only $120 for some Wagner thermo quiet.

Also, in the case I decide to change my pads on my own or just get a friend to give me a hand is there a good online retailer I can buy my pads at? I'm contemplating between Hawk HPS and Wagner Thermo Quiet. I'd like to support the local shops but the few that I've talked to either want too much, or try to sell me on a product I didn't ask for and work I didn't request.

Any thoughts or advice would be muchly appreciated.

[Buci]

07 Mazda 3 and has nearly 75,000kms on it

You need a brake job if you have 75000 on your OEM brakes, and if 380$ is everything included (tax+parts+labour) i think it is a fair price. 1 rotor lathe = 15-25$ each, so you are looking at 100$ only for 4 rotors re-surface.

[Rehan]

Also, in the case I decide to change my pads on my own or just get a friend to give me a hand is there a good online retailer I can buy my pads at? I'm contemplating between Hawk HPS and Wagner Thermo Quiet. I'd like to support the local shops but the few that I've talked to either want too much, or try to sell me on a product I didn't ask for and work I didn't request.

Canadian Tire carries the ThermoQuiet line... I got a set of brake shoes (for drum brakes) for $80 a pair for my van. You should give them a call and check if they have pads for your car.

If the $380 quote you got is for all 4 wheels, it's not too bad.

[jayt90]

OEM brake pads can go much more than 75,000km, maybe up to 200,000km with conservative use. You can inspect the life left in the pads visually.
When they are close to being finished you can get new pads and refinished rotors at a place like Toronto Brake http://torontobrake.mechanicnet.com/
No need to replace fluid unless it is really old, or leaking.

[antichrysler]

The $380 was only for the front brakes. That's why it seemed high to me.

I'm just wondering if re-finishing the rotors is actually required? Other people I've talked to have said if the rotors are in good shape, put on good pads and then with the second change replace pads. If the rotors are in bad shape put on cheap pads and replace both next time.

[antichrysler]

bump

[Pete_Coach]

To replace the pads and clean and service the calipers is about an hour and a half labour per wheel. The pads are extra.
Re-surfacing is not "turning" the rotors. Re-surfacing is normaly using an abrasive disk on your rotor surface and removing any rust and putting a texture on the pad contacted surface. This also is about 1/2 hour labor plus the abrasive disk.
Before anyone jumps in and tell everyone that they can do it in 20 minutes, this is the shop rates that will be billed to the customer. It is great you are a super tech and all is easy and you do not have to pay rent, food , insurances etc out of you labour charges.

[pax1234]

I did my daugther's 07 Mazda3 2.3l last fall, a little less km then yours. Front and back pads only. Bought the Monro pads on sale at CanTires, together with brake cleaner, brake grease, 1L DOT3 brake fluid, all for around $150.00.

It was an easy straight forward job. The only thing was that the rear caliper piston needed a special tool to push in and turn to make room for the new pads. I didn't have the tool, so I just loosen the bleeder screw and used a long nose pliers to push and turn the piston in, it worked ok.

Since I was going to replace the brake fluid too, so I was doing that too at the same time with a vacuum bump connected to the bleeder nipple. With the bleeder screw loosened the piston was easy to push in.

I spend about two hours doing it slowly.

[antichrysler]

A co-worker of mine was saying the same thing. Just do it at home since it wasn't very involved.

[Rehan]

I posted here about the free Loan-A-Tool service at some Canadian Tire / Partsource locations... One of the tools that they have is a disc brake repair kit (probably this one). That should help you out a bit.

You can also check out these videos if you're a total newbie...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLYgTmzjhV4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy5W8R3aiVs
(each one is a multi-part series)

[pax1234]

I posted here about the free Loan-A-Tool service at some Canadian Tire / Partsource locations... One of the tools that they have is a disc brake repair kit (probably this one). That should help you out a bit.

You can also check out these videos if you're a total newbie...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLYgTmzjhV4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dy5W8R3aiVs
(each one is a multi-part series)

No, that disc brake repair kit only compresses the piston, it doesn't turn the piston at the same time as it compresses. So it won't work on the rear brake, it will work on the front brake.

I just used a "C" clamp and the old brake pad to compress the piston for the front brakes. For the rear brake, I did buy a little square block from Princess auto for five bucks with varies different size pins sticking out on the sides, but none of the spacing on the pins would fit the Mazda3 piston. A pair pliers and loosen the bleeder screw works pretty good. I didn't have any problem with it, the piston just push in and turned easily.

One more thing, you need to bleed the brake after, if you loosen the bleeder screw to do it. I was replacing the brake fluid at the time, so I was bleeding the brake after.