Hot Deals

[Canadian Tire] Car ramp for oil change $37.49

  • Last Updated:
  • May 28th, 2017 12:14 am
Deal Expert
Mar 23, 2004
21125 posts
2151 upvotes
djemzine wrote:
May 17th, 2017 11:07 am
Do you guys know if cars with a lip, regardless of stock height or not, will scrape when going up or down?
Some cars will, some cars won't. Just depends on how low and the distance from the wheels to the edge of the front bumper (the longer more chance of scraping). As I said my car at stock height *just* clears [a similar set of ramps] without scraping...and I have to be pretty careful. I don't really have a lip as another piece but my car does have an extended bumper with sort of a built in lip you could say. If it's a multi-piece bumper you have, and it's low, I probably wouldn't try it.

The good news is they're made of plastic so even if it touches lightly, there shouldn't be much of any damage. Of course mine have a "surfaced" top, whereas these have the open top and the support spars (or whatever you want to call them) exposed. That may be a little worse if it scrapes.
Deal Expert
Mar 23, 2004
21125 posts
2151 upvotes
Messerschmitt wrote:
May 17th, 2017 12:10 pm
But anyway, we're straying away from the thread topic. Only thing about these, I would be extremely concerned trusting my life in some cheap plastic with so many reviews about them cracking.
I went through a whole bunch of the reviews but don't see anything about cracking? I didn't go through them all mind you but a few pages and none that mentioned cracking, just saw one that said plastic stress (whitening) in some parts but that's it. There's also the ones made of the compressible rubber stuff (they're solid ramps), I mean not on sale here but they exist. The only complaints seem to be from yahoos that have the ramps "shoot out" from the car lol. I dunno what those guys are doing but it can't possible be described as "gentle". These are not like going up a parking ramp at a parking complex guys, obviously the ramps are going to move if you're not careful or try approaching them or backing off them with any kind of speed at all. Other complaints seem to come from ppl saying they're not high enough--so I guess not for fatsos either--don't mean to sound rude but if you need a lot of space, the ramps probably aren't going to do.

Also note that if you have a RWD car, it'll make it a good bit trickier to get the front up because with no torque on the front, it'll tend to "push" the ramps more than a FWD or AWD vehicle would.
Jr. Member
Nov 29, 2011
151 posts
103 upvotes
CALGARY
Just make sure they are on concrete or asphalt. I watched someone shoot them under the car(FWD) as he placed them on a tarp across his driveway and he was high centered causing a lot of damage.
Deal Addict
Jun 1, 2008
1894 posts
161 upvotes
Cambridge, ON/Guelph…
djemzine wrote:
May 17th, 2017 11:07 am
Do you guys know if cars with a lip, regardless of stock height or not, will scrape when going up or down?
I bought a set for my mazdaspeed 6, but returned because the bottom lip of my front bumper wouldnt clear.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Dec 20, 2004
1058 posts
354 upvotes
Montreal, QC
Thanks, but for oil changes, it's just not worth it in my opinion (at least for me)..

Skip dealer, and go to a local small shop (find one that you trust, and stick with it) and they often even let you bring your oil/filter and charge you about $20. On my Honda and my wife's Chevy, My mechanic charges me $40 (and no tax) for 4.5-5 Litres of Semi synthetic and filter. And while it is draining he greases the joints (on the chevy), checks balljoints, tierods, stab links, etc... And when filling up the oil, he also checks and tops up other fluids if needed, and inspects the belt(s), etc... Considering oil and filter would cost me $30 roughly anyhow, for an extra $10 (even if it was $20 ), I don't need to get dirty, I get many other parts inspected at the same time, often get a free coffee, and I get a chance to sit back and relax a bit.

Jack and Stands for other mechanical work, is what I use, and I feel safer than a pair of plastic ramps. But to each his own.

And for the whole pump vs gravity drain, it really depends on the cars engine design and pan design. For some cars, it works like a charm, but for others, it is just useless. And if you have a magnetic drain plug (I only have one on tranny plug), then you need to remove it to clean it anyhow. Also, if car engine design requires you to get underneath to pull the filter, then it kind of defeats the purpose.

And for the fumoto valve idea... It sounds great, and would be fine for cars that have a shield on the bottom. However for something like my Honda, where the drain plug is straight on the bottom, I can not see the fumoto valve sticking out by an inch and survivng one winter. In the winter, you'd go over a pile of snow or hit a block of ice and it would literally get ripped right off. This coming from a bad experience this past weekend when I moved by air compressor at home, and drain valve broke off :( next to where the compressor was, is the cleanout to the main house drain going out to the city sewer. Well, as I moved the compressor, the drain valve accidentally hit/tapped the drain cleanout cover/cap and it sheered right off the compressor.. Needless to say, I was cursing... Tank put on it's side, to access drain port, and try to remove the remainder of the brass NPT threads that broke off on the tank, then had to clean out the threads to be able to install a replacement valve. NPT threads were jammed in there pretty good, and with it being sheered off flush with the tank, it doesn't give much to grip to try to unscrew them. So fumoto valve is a nice elegant idea, but not for every car.
Deal Addict
Apr 4, 2007
2851 posts
563 upvotes
Montreal
Emporium wrote:
May 17th, 2017 10:36 pm
Thanks, but for oil changes, it's just not worth it in my opinion (at least for me)..

Skip dealer, and go to a local small shop (find one that you trust, and stick with it) and they often even let you bring your oil/filter and charge you about $20. On my Honda and my wife's Chevy, My mechanic charges me $40 (and no tax) for 4.5-5 Litres of Semi synthetic and filter. And while it is draining he greases the joints (on the chevy), checks balljoints, tierods, stab links, etc... And when filling up the oil, he also checks and tops up other fluids if needed, and inspects the belt(s), etc... Considering oil and filter would cost me $30 roughly anyhow, for an extra $10 (even if it was $20 ), I don't need to get dirty, I get many other parts inspected at the same time, often get a free coffee, and I get a chance to sit back and relax a bit.

Jack and Stands for other mechanical work, is what I use, and I feel safer than a pair of plastic ramps. But to each his own.

And for the whole pump vs gravity drain, it really depends on the cars engine design and pan design. For some cars, it works like a charm, but for others, it is just useless. And if you have a magnetic drain plug (I only have one on tranny plug), then you need to remove it to clean it anyhow. Also, if car engine design requires you to get underneath to pull the filter, then it kind of defeats the purpose.

And for the fumoto valve idea... It sounds great, and would be fine for cars that have a shield on the bottom. However for something like my Honda, where the drain plug is straight on the bottom, I can not see the fumoto valve sticking out by an inch and survivng one winter. In the winter, you'd go over a pile of snow or hit a block of ice and it would literally get ripped right off. This coming from a bad experience this past weekend when I moved by air compressor at home, and drain valve broke off :( next to where the compressor was, is the cleanout to the main house drain going out to the city sewer. Well, as I moved the compressor, the drain valve accidentally hit/tapped the drain cleanout cover/cap and it sheered right off the compressor.. Needless to say, I was cursing... Tank put on it's side, to access drain port, and try to remove the remainder of the brass NPT threads that broke off on the tank, then had to clean out the threads to be able to install a replacement valve. NPT threads were jammed in there pretty good, and with it being sheered off flush with the tank, it doesn't give much to grip to try to unscrew them. So fumoto valve is a nice elegant idea, but not for every car.
From Fumoto's Q&A:
Q.
How much does the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve stick out from the oil pan?
A.
The Drain Valve for passenger cars and light trucks is approximately 20mm thick. In its closed position the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve extends from the oil pan only about 10mm more than a standard oil drain plug. Many drain holes are angled, so the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve does not protrude significantly in the vertical direction.
The sump pan is generally not the lowest part of the vehicle.


I haven't seen any stories of people having them get damaged by snow/ice, but obviously it is possible. If it becomes the lowest point on your car (which is unlikely) then there is a greater risk. The cars I've installed it on had angled drains and there was no risk of it being damaged by anything from the road.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Jan 14, 2013
1763 posts
470 upvotes
Burnaby
RE: the guy who posted the Amazon review about cracked ramps: not the same product. the CT ones don't nest on each other and have internal webbing. the Amazon ones look like a plastic shell with almost no internal bracing
Newbie
Mar 13, 2010
77 posts
8 upvotes
I looked at the Sceptor ramps yesterday at CT. I was ready to buy them when I saw the Rhino brand ramps and did a side by side comparison. The Rhino's can hold more weight but more importantly for me they stack on each other, like plastic cups. The Sceptor ramps do not. The stack ability alone was worth the extra $22.50 so I bought the Rhinos ($59.99).
Member
Jul 25, 2015
221 posts
52 upvotes
Ottawa, ON
bargain man wrote:
May 17th, 2017 2:45 pm
I bought a set for my mazdaspeed 6, but returned because the bottom lip of my front bumper wouldnt clear.
Use a couple blocks of wood to drive up to the ramps.
Deal Guru
Aug 22, 2011
12835 posts
2864 upvotes
Ottawa
If anyone is doubting the durability of this, I can tell you it works very well and was able to withstand the entire front end of my 5000lbs SUV.
With my SUVs, I haven't attempted to crawl under them as I can pay around $65.xx for full synthetic oil changes, but due to long bookings at the dealership; I couldn't wait.
Along with wheel chocks at the back wheels, two jacks under the front axles; it was a breeze to crawl under using these ramps; feeling safe.
Jr. Member
User avatar
Aug 31, 2012
189 posts
21 upvotes
CONCORD
bargain man wrote:
May 17th, 2017 2:45 pm
I bought a set for my mazdaspeed 6, but returned because the bottom lip of my front bumper wouldnt clear.
Would driving over a couple 2x4's work. Not the smoothest transition but may solve the issue.
Jr. Member
User avatar
Aug 31, 2012
189 posts
21 upvotes
CONCORD
Sinasta wrote:
May 19th, 2017 3:29 am
Use a couple blocks of wood to drive up to the ramps.
oops didn't see this before I responded above.
Deal Fanatic
User avatar
Apr 15, 2011
5567 posts
969 upvotes
aGincourt
I bought these ramps years ago and I use them for oil changes, much faster and safer than using a floor jack and jack stands. The plastic is very thick and is webbed, never felt like I was in any danger underneath the car. Never had a car roll past the blocked edge. Heaviest car on it was a 2006 sienna (4300lbs) and was perfectly fine.
Newbie
User avatar
Oct 8, 2010
50 posts
4 upvotes
Just used this on my genesis coupe to change the fog lights, real solid. Didn't need a 2x4. Will use again next week for oil change. I doubt I can do an ATF change cause no enough clearance but let's see.
Sr. Member
Nov 27, 2009
910 posts
272 upvotes
Good deal! I will check them out tomorrow.
× < >
Rotate image Save Cancel

Top