Automotive

Car Batteries - FAQ, General Information, Tips & Tricks

  • Last Updated:
  • Apr 20th, 2018 3:36 pm
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Deal Fanatic
Oct 26, 2008
5416 posts
1148 upvotes
BC
Suggest that we stick to battery-related things only and not get sidetracked into discussions like fuel additives to assist starting in cold weather.

Despite the fact that a lot of GTA people have been replacing their batteries recently because they were not able to start in the very low temperatures,
the fact is that batteries around the world fail from heat more than anything else.

Further editing required in 1st. post:
As Deka is a brand name for East Penn Mfg., albeit their main brand, we should not be implying it is part of their company name.
Their other brands include Intimidator and they also use the Duracell brand name under licence for an automotive line battery.

They go themselves often by the name simply as East Penn, leaving off the Mfg. part, so we can do that too.

Re. the differences between AGM and traditional wet cell batteries, here's a puzzle.
Why does the picture in the link below of East Penn's Intimidator AGM battery have what look like removable caps for each cell? (Scroll down to see the picture.)
Is adding water to an AGM battery an expected maintenance task and if so how do you know when it is needed?
The caps don't have the cross-heads in them that the wet cell Deka Gold battery caps have, but look as they are meant to be popped off.
Also, note that there is no vent provision visible for the AGM battery like there is for the wet cell Deka.

http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/di ... portation/
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
7919 posts
2512 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
qaz393 wrote:
Jan 9th, 2018 7:39 pm
Battery from cumpare w204. Cluster did show 14.9-15.1V.......

I don't think it is an AGM. Why would this have a vent tube if it is?

Vent tube at right of the red + of sticker
IMG_20180109_193541929.jpg
Let's say that you are right and that's not an AGM battery. Then if the car puts out a charging voltage of 15V, then that's way above the normal charging voltage range for flooded lead acid batteries (which should be between 14.00V and 14.5V) as a higher voltage would high rates of evaporation of the battery's fluid which means it will eventually dry out if the fluid isn't refilled (ie. early battery death). AGM batteries normally require a bit more voltage (14.6 V to 14.9V).

So, either the car was designed to overcharge standard flooded batteries OR it was designed for AGMs.
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
7919 posts
2512 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
macnut wrote:
Jan 9th, 2018 10:26 pm
w204 lifecycle encompassed the years when M-B was migrating to AGM batteries so maybe not out of the question that they boosted alternator output a bit even for a standard battery factory fitment.
Boosting that voltage output to 15V isn't a good idea for the standard flooded battery as that would make the battery start off-gassing a lot and the battery to eventually dry out.
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
7919 posts
2512 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
ysl5710 wrote:
Jan 9th, 2018 9:11 pm
I noticed my koa tends to have hard time starting in winter only. I have to the gas pedal for it to start up properly.

I noticed if i put premium gas, than it starts up properly.

This new battery i got 2 yeara ago.
Have you done any routine maintenance on the battery since you got it? (ie. clean the terminals, check that they are tights, put some dielectric grease on the terminals (thin coat only!), and maybe charge the battery)
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
7919 posts
2512 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
macnut wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 12:56 pm
Suggest that we stick to battery-related things only and not get sidetracked into discussions like fuel additives to assist starting in cold weather.

Despite the fact that a lot of GTA people have been replacing their batteries recently because they were not able to start in the very low temperatures,
the fact is that batteries around the world fail from heat more than anything else.

Further editing required in 1st. post:
As Deka is a brand name for East Penn Mfg., albeit their main brand, we should not be implying it is part of their company name.
Their other brands include Intimidator and they also use the Duracell brand name under licence for an automotive line battery.

They go themselves often by the name simply as East Penn, leaving off the Mfg. part, so we can do that too.

Re. the differences between AGM and traditional wet cell batteries, here's a puzzle.
Why does the picture in the link below of East Penn's Intimidator AGM battery have what look like removable caps for each cell? (Scroll down to see the picture.)
Is adding water to an AGM battery an expected maintenance task and if so how do you know when it is needed?
The caps don't have the cross-heads in them that the wet cell Deka Gold battery caps have, but look as they are meant to be popped off.
Also, note that there is no vent provision visible for the AGM battery like there is for the wet cell Deka.

http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/di ... portation/
As for the AGM battery, in theory, you never have to add anything to AGMs as the acid is soaked into the glass mat so adding anything will have a hard time to defuse through the entire cell. Of course, the battery OEMs said the same thing with the current crop of 'maintenance-free' flooded batteries as well. As for the caps, maybe, just maybe, you are reading too much into those caps and it was just an engineering cost savings (ie allows them to use the same chassis as other batteries resulting in a low cost to manufacture).
Jr. Member
Mar 28, 2007
103 posts
45 upvotes
hightech wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 8:19 am
As this post evolves, please let me know what else you would like to see in the sticky. I can add additional sections as needed.

Thanks everyone :)
I would suggest adding some information on how to correctly boost/jump a battery

1.Clamp one end of the red cable (+) to the positive (+) terminal on the battery of the DEAD car.
2.Clamp the other end of the red cable (+) to the positive (+) terminal but this time on the battery of the BOOST car.
3.Clamp one end of the black cable (-) to the negative (-) terminal on the battery of the BOOST car.
4.Clamp the other end of the black cable (-) to some unpainted metal surface near the battery of the DEAD car. This is to ground the connection. Do not connect it to the negative (-) of the BOOST car’s battery.


Image
Sr. Member
May 28, 2007
561 posts
89 upvotes
phantom_911 wrote:
Jan 10th, 2018 2:30 pm
I would suggest adding some information on how to correctly boost/jump a battery

1.Clamp one end of the red cable (+) to the positive (+) terminal on the battery of the DEAD car.
2.Clamp the other end of the red cable (+) to the positive (+) terminal but this time on the battery of the BOOST car.
3.Clamp one end of the black cable (-) to the negative (-) terminal on the battery of the BOOST car.
4.Clamp the other end of the black cable (-) to some unpainted metal surface near the battery of the DEAD car. This is to ground the connection. Do not connect it to the negative (-) of the BOOST car’s battery.


Image
#1 and #2 in the picture are inverted if you're following the steps you described.
Jr. Member
Mar 28, 2007
103 posts
45 upvotes
You're right. I got the picutre and written steps from different sources. I would follow the written steps suggestion of connecting to the dead battery first.
Deal Expert
User avatar
Oct 26, 2003
28172 posts
1971 upvotes
Winnipeg
got honda civic 2003, replaced both battery and alternator, tested both and they are good but the battery light signal on dash still on, pretty sure it's an issue with the signal cable to the dash, is there anyway to confirm or replace?
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
7919 posts
2512 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
divx wrote:
Jan 11th, 2018 1:21 pm
got honda civic 2003, replaced both battery and alternator, tested both and they are good but the battery light signal on dash still on, pretty sure it's an issue with the signal cable to the dash, is there anyway to confirm or replace?
How was the battery tested?
Deal Expert
User avatar
Oct 26, 2003
28172 posts
1971 upvotes
Winnipeg
craftsman wrote:
Jan 11th, 2018 1:36 pm
How was the battery tested?
load tested by mechanic at the shop with a special battery tester, same as the alternator, they are both brand new. pretty sure it is a signal issue at this point.
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
7919 posts
2512 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
divx wrote:
Jan 11th, 2018 2:39 pm
load tested by mechanic at the shop with a special battery tester, same as the alternator, they are both brand new. pretty sure it is a signal issue at this point.
There's a lot of threads on the 'net that seem very similar to your issue - try googling 'honda civic 2003 battery light'. A few of the threads out there actually found various solutions (ie - https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civ ... s-3019040/).

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