Automotive

Car Batteries - FAQ, General Information, Tips & Tricks

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  • Oct 17th, 2018 1:51 pm
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Deal Fanatic
Oct 26, 2008
5538 posts
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BC
I wonder if geniuspaki will ever update us on what turned out to be the problem with his 3 year-old Civic charging system?
Deal Fanatic
May 1, 2012
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Markham
macnut wrote:
May 25th, 2018 4:03 pm
I wonder if geniuspaki will ever update us on what turned out to be the problem with his 3 year-old Civic charging system?
Teh alternator was crap.
Deal Addict
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May 11, 2009
4071 posts
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Debtario
Thank you Craftsman! Advice worked like a charm back a few months ago, forgot to revist the thread to update the results.

However, I suspect the battery has been permanently damaged. Took the car on a few sporadic long trips over the last few months but had to recharge for 24 hours again in late may. Went to start the car last week and interior lights are on but no start/all power accessories are dead, at this point I expect I need a new battery.

Any advice on brand/type? I need a group 75 - the "old" battery was an AC Delco 700CCA/95RC and just managed to fail 2 months outside the 42 month warranty period! The Previous battery before the latest one lasted a good decade or more. I'll likely invest in a Ctek MUS4.3 too because this car is rarely driven, actually the battery and maintainer may be worth almost what the car is worth... but it runs well and has massive sentimental value to family members so selling is not an option, too much money dumped into it in previous year and it has been running reliably since.
craftsman wrote:
Jan 14th, 2018 12:57 am
People have been charging batteries with something similar that you have for the decades so it's safe provided you use it right.

Charging time will depend on the rate of charge that you use (DON'T use the 200A unless you know what's going on) and the capacity of the battery in question (in Amp Hours - AH). Most car batteries have anywhere from 20 to 40 or so AH. So, let's say that the battery is 40 AH (please check yourself as I don't know and just made up this number)... and let's say you use the 40A setting. Then in ONE hour that battery would have received 40 AH of charge and in a perfect world with a new battery, that battery would be FULL.

But we don't live in a perfect world SO, it would normally take longer than 1 hour as batteries charge slower as they get closer to full so think 1.5 Hours. Also, we don't know if the battery will take a full charge anymore as it's 3 years old. Heck, we don't know if the battery will take any charge right now! I would remove the battery from the car, clean the battery off (soap and water), check to see if there are any fluids in the battery and fill so that the fluid just covers the plates but no more, connect the battery to the charger, select 12V, select 2A (nothing higher until you know that the battery will charge), then let the sucker fly. Check the voltmeter to see if the voltage increases steadily for about an hour. If it does, then you have just put in 2 AH into the battery! At that point, you have a choice of either going to 40 A (which I don't recommend) or leaving at 2A and slowly charge the battery according to the capacity of the battery. If you go the slow route, check every few hours to see that everything to go fine and the fluid levels are OKAY. If you do decide to use the 40A mode (which I don't recommend), have a fire extinguisher handy, remove the filler caps of the battery, and stay with the battery through the charging process.
"I possess a device, in my pocket, capable of accessing the entirety of information known to man. I use it to look at pictures of cats and get in arguments with strangers"
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
8871 posts
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Vancouver, BC
M1K3Z0R wrote:
Jun 30th, 2018 11:32 pm
Thank you Craftsman! Advice worked like a charm back a few months ago, forgot to revist the thread to update the results.

However, I suspect the battery has been permanently damaged. Took the car on a few sporadic long trips over the last few months but had to recharge for 24 hours again in late may. Went to start the car last week and interior lights are on but no start/all power accessories are dead, at this point I expect I need a new battery.

Any advice on brand/type? I need a group 75 - the "old" battery was an AC Delco 700CCA/95RC and just managed to fail 2 months outside the 42 month warranty period! The Previous battery before the latest one lasted a good decade or more. I'll likely invest in a Ctek MUS4.3 too because this car is rarely driven, actually the battery and maintainer may be worth almost what the car is worth... but it runs well and has massive sentimental value to family members so selling is not an option, too much money dumped into it in previous year and it has been running reliably since.
Before you go about buying a new battery, there's a very good chance that the battery is sulfated but not so sulfated that it won't take a charge with your old battery charger and THAT'S A GOOD THING.

If you are going to invest in a good portable battery charger like a CTEK MUS4.3, I would actually get that first before replacing the battery and use it's battery reconditioning/repair mode on the battery for a few cycles before declaring that you are replacing the battery. The repair/reconditioning modes typically perform a battery desulfation process which should last a for a few days but these chargers will generally run the cycle for only a few hours so you will need to repeat the process a few times. A video I linked to previous shows the CTEK 7200 going through the reconditioning cycle on a 'dead' battery and shows that it recovered about 1/4 of the CCA capacity on the first cycle. Unfortunately, the author of the video didn't run additional reconditioning cycles on that battery (or at least they didn't document it) but I suspect that a few additional runs will yield additional results. Note> that's not to say that a CTEK 7002 reconditioning process can completely recover a battery... but rather there can be more improvement than is documented in the video. At this point, you don't have much to loose as you are looking to buy a higher end charger anyways so why not see if you can recover the battery and save yourself a few bucks for a new battery? Also, you can see if the repair/reconditioning cycles actually work!

As for a battery itself, recently, I started to buy used (yes, used) batteries from a local source for $40. He gets them from autowreckers and probably makes good money at. He charges and test the battery before selling so you know that the battery works. He will also let me choose from any battery he has 'instock' (actually his garage floor) and he offers a one year warranty. So, I bring along my own battery tester (which you can get off ebay for $30 US shipped) and look for the following:

1. A battery which was OEM'd by Johnson Controls. You can tell a Johnson Controls battery by their physical design of the vent caps. If not a Johnson Controls battery, then I want one with physical vent caps so that I can check and add de-ionized water to the cells.
2. With the battery tester, I test the 'candidate' batteries to see which one is 'best' as they have all been charged.

Some people say that it's a stupid move to buy a used battery as you don't know what condition it's in or how it's been treated. But the way I look at it, the price is 1/3 to 1/4 the price of a new battery and if the battery has been tested by two different methods and there's a 'warranty' on the battery the risk/reward as long as you look for a good battery manufacturer is good.
Sr. Member
May 3, 2008
550 posts
192 upvotes
Markham
Is it possible for a battery to hold enuf charge for just 1 start and then die ? Got a wierd case where battery died and car wont start, fully recharged a few days ago (charger light showed green) and it will only start the car 2 times, then die again the next morning.
Recharge it again yesterday and able to start it on first start this morning (normal sound, no extra cranking, etc while I fully expected to have the jump start but no). Drove it to dealer to have it checked out, once parked, dealer not able to start again and have to jump start. So after fully recharged (per charger green indicator light), the battery only good for 1 start then die again ?? Is that possible ? There is no battery warning light on the dashboard (which user manual says will be alternator if it lights up). All the lights, dashboard etc lights up fine even when car wont start.
Newbie
Dec 1, 2016
70 posts
5 upvotes
In March I bought the kirkland battery for my car to replace the dead one, according to the costco book the battery model is 435 51R 11 and when i put in the car, the connection loose and my friend helped me to put a piece of cooper into connection head like in the photo bellow.
but this morning I could not start my car, even not opened my door by remote, then i have to open door by key, but also could not start when plug the key in . but when came back in the afternoon the car backed to normal like magic.
Then I brought the car to mechanics and he said I bought the wrong size of battery, does not fit the frame and also not fit the connection head, therefore the conenction loose and sometime battery does not in contact with the car like this morning.
i came back costco but the guy from battery section told me that the model is right, and all the connection head of battery are same, so I can ask the mechanics to make a spacer for head and continue to use that battery , or if I do not like, can return it to costco.
any one has honda accord and have experience with it? last solution is I can return the battery to costco , and go to mechanics and buy the original , but sure is more expensive
A52D7B0A-2907-43DD-979D-83166DF55720.jpeg
Deal Guru
User avatar
Mar 31, 2008
10069 posts
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Toronto
I bought one from Walmart Energizer brand before and it fitted fine.
Sr. Member
Feb 11, 2018
842 posts
678 upvotes
If you can buy your battery from Walmart south of the border. I needed a battery for my ztr mower. At Costco it was $60. The same size battery was $21 at Wally USA.
Paying less is only half the equation. The other half is buying less... ;)
Jr. Member
Nov 20, 2014
178 posts
52 upvotes
Stouffville, ON
I believe the Costco manual refers to the US market accord which comes with smaller battery. Judging from your picture the battery is to small for the tray.

My 2013 accord takes a group 35 while the same accord for the US market comes with the group 51.

Refer to the 2006 Canadian owners manual for proper size.
Sr. Member
Sep 8, 2017
882 posts
706 upvotes
GTA
I have an '06 Accord 2.4L as well and that's the correct size battery. The V6 models have a larger one.

Strange that your cable doesn't fit right.

I have an A/C Delco battery in my car, and the cables are tight.

I'll take a look tomorrow to see what size code I have. But it looks identical to yours.
Deal Fanatic
Oct 26, 2008
5538 posts
1248 upvotes
BC
talmcgill wrote:
Jul 17th, 2018 9:44 pm
......
i came back costco but the guy from battery section told me that the model is right, and all the connection head of battery are same, ......
That's not exactly true. Shouldn't be applicable in your case with a Honda, but BMW owners often encounter this because the DIN standard post is bigger than a SAE post.

That means their factory terminal may not fit snugly on the post of an aftermarket battery if it's not one designated for European models (which typically use an H6, H7 or H8 battery size).

Easily solved with those post caps - which also have a market because of manufacturing tolerances and the fact that new batteries contain a lot of recycled components.

And terminal clamps can get stretched over time, or lose material through corrosion.

The copper piece your friend put on the negative post didn't work out as it really needs to be a tight 360 deg. connection.

So Costco was mostly right, except for post standards, and your mechanic was wrong about the battery size and also the tray - a battery doesn't have to exactly fit the tray.

Detail on battery post standards in this forum link
Deal Fanatic
Jan 27, 2006
8871 posts
3074 upvotes
Vancouver, BC
savemoresaveoften wrote:
Jul 4th, 2018 9:20 pm
Is it possible for a battery to hold enuf charge for just 1 start and then die ? Got a wierd case where battery died and car wont start, fully recharged a few days ago (charger light showed green) and it will only start the car 2 times, then die again the next morning.
Recharge it again yesterday and able to start it on first start this morning (normal sound, no extra cranking, etc while I fully expected to have the jump start but no). Drove it to dealer to have it checked out, once parked, dealer not able to start again and have to jump start. So after fully recharged (per charger green indicator light), the battery only good for 1 start then die again ?? Is that possible ? There is no battery warning light on the dashboard (which user manual says will be alternator if it lights up). All the lights, dashboard etc lights up fine even when car wont start.
Yes.

Without measuring and testing the battery myself, I can only guess that there might be a 'small short' in the battery causing it to drain quickly. Since you took it to the dealer to have it checked out, what did the dealer say?

BTW> The charged indicator light typically states that the battery reached a certain voltage when charging. It's not a true indicator of how much capacity is in the battery itself.
Newbie
May 17, 2013
17 posts
6 upvotes
Toronto
My original battery died after 5 years on my Acura RDX, which was a big surprise for me. I previously had a 2002 Toyota Camry and the dealer recommended to change the battery after 9 years as the winter was coming, but I know someone that changed the battery after 12 years.
Was the Acura a poor quality battery or this is the norm nowadays?
Sr. Member
May 3, 2008
550 posts
192 upvotes
Markham
Dealer just ended up replacing the battery under warranty (50% prorated). Still a rip off as still have to pay full labor and dealer hrly rate now $150per and charged 30mins. I could do it faster myself and I am no pro by any means.

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