Copper Pipe soldering

[stealth]

Some good info here. esp. about making sure all the water is out of the pipe before soldering as it wont let the pipe get hot enough otherwise. also make sure the fitting area is "polished" with sand paper. pretty straight forward otherwise.

I have heard of tinning, but not sure when/why you should do it.

I've tried compression fittings, but hate them and will hopefully never use them again. Not sure why you say they're too expensive, in most cases all it is is a small ring that costs pennies.
I just cant seem to get the ideal tightness for them, always either too loose or too tight, so either way they leak. Soldering just isnt that hard I find.

[ans2]

I've tried compression fittings, but hate them and will hopefully never use them again. Not sure why you say they're too expensive, in most cases all it is is a small ring that costs pennies.
I just cant seem to get the ideal tightness for them, always either too loose or too tight, so either way they leak. Soldering just isnt that hard I find.

I also don't like compression fittings for the same reasons. If they are not tight enough they can blow off when you least expect it. That would leave quite a mess.

There are people who just do not feel comfortable with soldering. Just like there are some people who don't like replacing a defective electical breaker, an electrical recepticle or replacing a card in their computer. None of those tasks are difficult to do, if you know what you are doing.

So, for some people, using a repair technique that doesn't require a torch is preferable. If a person is repairing a single pin hole leak their alternatives are to (1) hire a plumber, (2) solder it themselves or (3) buy and repair using compression fittings. If they solder it them selves they first have to buy or borrow the tools. That is the propane torch, the solder and emery paper or equivalent. I suspect all of that would set a person back at least $15. A plumber will take 5 minutes to do the job. But they will charge a minimum of half an hour and most likely a service charge. That would cost a minimum of $30 and quite possibly $60. For some people, making the repair using compression fittings may still be the more economical alternative.

But I agree. I don't like compressin fittings either. For me, that would require me to make an extra visit to the hardware store. I know that I have a torch, solder and a limited supply of copper fittings. So, for me, the incremental cost might be fifty cents.

Getting back to the original posted question. The original poster did "not" say anywhere that he/she fluxed the joint prior to soldering. That may have been a missing step. I don't want to re post one of my previous postings but it is very important to "flux" the joint after it is polished and before soldering.

[thrifty1]

i did no see anyone mention "doughy white bread"

so...fyi...if you happen upon a run of pipe that won't completely drain (water off of course) try a tad of white bread (sans crust) stuffed up the pipe with a pencil, just before you solder

the bread will just wash out of the next tap in the line

just thought i'd add my bit

[Kasakato]

i did no see anyone mention "doughy white bread"

so...fyi...if you happen upon a run of pipe that won't completely drain (water off of course) try a tad of white bread (sans crust) stuffed up the pipe with a pencil, just before you solder

the bread will just wash out of the next tap in the line

just thought i'd add my bit

I did that! But for some reason it smells bad and I got little air bubbles.

[stevethewheel]

i did no see anyone mention "doughy white bread"

shhh. that's a trade secret.

Use Italian bread.