Automotive

CorrosionFree for a new car

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  • May 2nd, 2016 1:05 pm
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Member
Nov 13, 2008
392 posts
61 upvotes
Kitchener
fractall wrote: That's good to know. When I searched for CF dealers, they didn't show up since I was searching locations near a PC in Waterloo. At 109, I'll probably get it done from them, along with tinting and PP if they do it.

Is it, the complete package for 109, or just the undercarriage? And do they drill holes?

Thanks.
$109 was the whole car. They did drill holes, asked if I was okay with it before. I've had it done on other cars so had no problem with it. They plug them neatly and it looks fine.
Member
Nov 3, 2015
281 posts
58 upvotes
Clarkson, ON
jheath wrote: $109 was the whole car. They did drill holes, asked if I was okay with it before. I've had it done on other cars so had no problem with it. They plug them neatly and it looks fine.
I was hoping that they do drill holes, since without that the substance cannot be applied thoroughly AFAIK.
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Sep 8, 2007
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Way Out of GTA
gh05t wrote: It makes sense because of our salt conditons in winter.

Although it's not a Mazda it is still beneficial.

I'd do the complete and get the holes drilled to do inside the doors too since a lot of rust starts from the inside outwards.

Not sure of the texture of corrosion free but krown seems to be able to seep into every nook and cranny, especailly if done when it's warmer in spring or summer.

The one thing I've read about Krown is the effect it has on seals.

Corrosion free is application every 18 months while Krown is every 12 to maintain warranty I suppose.

I don't think they honour warranty though so you can forget about warranty and jsut do it every 2 years.
Last spring I thought my car developed an oil leak when it warmed up in the spring. Ended up being the Krown dripping from the fall application. As the weather warmed up it loosen up and drips again for a couple weeks.

As to why anyone would get this done if selling in 7 or less years? Resale. I'll always prefer a car treated with CF or Krown a few times vs one without all things being even. Can also be part of the clues as to how well a car was taken care of. A 7 year car is well out of warranty, therefore I prefer car with evidence that the owner has maintained and taken a few extra steps in that regard. No different than if they used synthetic, polished exterior, maintaining interior surfaces. The car as appliance crowd won't understand this. Which is good it leaves me a better chance to scoop the well taken care of cars easier.
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Aug 22, 2011
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cartfan123 wrote: Last spring I thought my car developed an oil leak when it warmed up in the spring. Ended up being the Krown dripping from the fall application. As the weather warmed up it loosen up and drips again for a couple weeks.

As to why anyone would get this done if selling in 7 or less years? Resale. I'll always prefer a car treated with CF or Krown a few times vs one without all things being even. Can also be part of the clues as to how well a car was taken care of. A 7 year car is well out of warranty, therefore I prefer car with evidence that the owner has maintained and taken a few extra steps in that regard. No different than if they used synthetic, polished exterior, maintaining interior surfaces. The car as appliance crowd won't understand this. Which is good it leaves me a better chance to scoop the well taken care of cars easier.
+1, it's fair to say a good majority of owners forget the "care" part of maintenance and care.
Deal Addict
Jun 27, 2005
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is there a best time of year to get krown done? or is it that just a never-ending debate?
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Feb 8, 2014
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cartfan123 wrote: Last spring I thought my car developed an oil leak when it warmed up in the spring. Ended up being the Krown dripping from the fall application. As the weather warmed up it loosen up and drips again for a couple weeks.
I suspect this is intentional, so you keep coming back for the fall application, i figure at least one component has a flow point (there must be an official term) of about 20C so after it gets that warm the remaining oil drips off the car.
jadoocian wrote: is there a best time of year to get krown done? or is it that just a never-ending debate?
Fall, if you do in spring it will drip off in the summer. They like to say early spring is just as good which seems to be mostly advertising to bring in new customers who didn't get it done in fall.
In fact in Rand McNally they wear hats on their feet and hamburgers eat people
Deal Addict
Dec 30, 2007
1005 posts
191 upvotes
Ottawa, ON
Quentin5 wrote: So they never could fix this problem, but would never admit it :(
Not sure what you mean? They acknowledge their product damages the rubber, and they have a process to prevent/reduce the damages by adding silicone onto the rubber. So what is it they aren't admitting?
reg boulette wrote: The Krown application I got damaged some of the rubber appliques on my truck. Went back to the Krown outlet to get this made good - guy refused - told me my 'car wash soap had gone bad' and that is what caused the damage. It was Corrosion Free from then on - but not applied at Canadian Tire.
Which is why I will be keeping this email. Should the rubber ever need to be replaced and they decline to do so I will do my damndest to put the onus on them to prove it wasn't their product that damaged it.

How hard did you push them on this?


I had my car sprayed at Krown in August, one week after purchasing the car. It was the first car I decided to have rust proofed and it will be interesting to see how well it works. My last car and our other vehicle were not rust proofed, and both started showing signs of rust around the 6-7 year mark (paint bubbling, chipping, rust itself along the bottom of the doors).

After having the car sprayed I parked on the lawn for 3 days afterwards to allow it to drip. I washed the car by hand the week following to get rid of the oily grime along the bottom, and by a week afterwards there was more oily grime along the bottom of the doors. The patter looked fresh from "seeping" vs. me missing spots while washing.

I plan to have it applied annually in August. The preference for the warm weather seems to be to allow the oil to seep more effectively into the smaller spaces to give full protection.
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Feb 8, 2014
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Wood0209 wrote: Not sure what you mean? They acknowledge their product damages the rubber, and they have a process to prevent/reduce the damages by adding silicone onto the rubber. So what is it they aren't admitting?
That they never fixed their formula, that they have to use another agent to hopefully prevent the damage. Lets hope they carefully hand silicone every rubber piece on the car. This was a big reason i switched.

When you claim you have fixed the problem every year over decades when you haven't your credibility is no longer beyond reproach
In fact in Rand McNally they wear hats on their feet and hamburgers eat people
Deal Addict
Dec 30, 2007
1005 posts
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Ottawa, ON
Quentin5 wrote: That they never fixed their formula, that they have to use another agent to hopefully prevent the damage. Lets hope they carefully hand silicone every rubber piece on the car. This was a big reason i switched.
But answer this. Would you purchase a product that guaranteed no damage to rubber if it meant being less effective at preventing/delaying rust? I believe it is the actual oil that is damaging the rubber, and it is the actual oil that is protecting your car from rust.
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Feb 8, 2014
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Wood0209 wrote: But answer this. Would you purchase a product that guaranteed no damage to rubber if it meant being less effective at preventing/delaying rust? I believe it is the actual oil that is damaging the rubber, and it is the actual oil that is protecting your car from rust.
The two are not mutually exclusive, oil prevents rust because it keeps water away from metal. Any oil will prevent rust if it accomplishes this. Belief is not necessary, save that for religious services (the flying spaghetti monster is the only true god btw)

(Only) a little knowledge is a very dangerous thing
In fact in Rand McNally they wear hats on their feet and hamburgers eat people
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Sep 9, 2012
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Oakville, ON
fractall wrote: 1. Haven't got an answer on that yet.
2. Ideally 5-6 years, and then get a DB6! :D But yeah, 5-6 yrs, but that might change depending on my finances. If I'm selling the car within 7 yrs, it doesn't make sense to get it right? As in, I'm not going to see the benefits of it?
In this period of ownership you're far more likely to get rust from stone chips and/or paint damage than you are from corrosion from the inside out.

I'd spend the money on stone chip repair and keeping the vehicle waxed rather than rust proofing.

If you're intent on getting a treatment done, I'd just do the underside provided that you get it repeated when called for. My two cents.

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