Automotive

Could a weak battery cause ABS module malfunction?

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  • May 23rd, 2016 4:40 pm
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[OP]
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nasa25 wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 9:26 am
You wanna throw up in your mouth a bit? An abs module/pump on my '00 discovery was $4k from the dealer. Yes, four thousand dollars.

I managed to get a refurb one for 400 pounds (around 700 bucks at the time) from a shop in the UK and installed it cost me in the area of $1400 (including changing a couple wheel speed sensors and bleeding the brakes). If you really can't handle any more problems then just trade it in I guess. A $500 fix is not a massive repair in my opinion but if you're having to throw 5 bills at it every 3 months, the ***** adds up.
Thought you said you paid $1400? I guess if the deal I made with the dealer falls through I'll give your suggestion a try. There are some used units on eBay for $100US plus duty, shipping, getting screwed by UPS, etc. But apparently when you're done putting it all together, replacing brake fluid, you still have to go through some programming routine. What a PITA.
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700 for the abs pump
400 or so on wheel speed sensors
300 or so labour (probably 100-150 for the abs pump)

so I guess it was 800-850 if you count just the abs pump. Still much cheaper than $4k. When my mechanic told me the cost of a new unit I almost died laughing.

For your jeep, you can try to look for some refurbished units. Might have a bit more longevity than a used module/pump that was picked off an accident car.
Re: Procurement, Life & RFD
nasa25: say you won it in a raffle. That's what I do with like 86% of my purchases
infinityloop: Lying to your SO seems like an unhealthy long term strategy
nasa25: lmao
[OP]
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nasa25 wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 9:37 am
700 for the abs pump
400 or so on wheel speed sensors
300 or so labour (probably 100-150 for the abs pump)

so I guess it was 800-850 if you count just the abs pump. Still much cheaper than $4k. When my mechanic told me the cost of a new unit I almost died laughing.

For your jeep, you can try to look for some refurbished units. Might have a bit more longevity than a used module/pump that was picked off an accident car.
So you didn't do the labour?
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hagbard wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 9:45 am
So you didn't do the labour?
Lol no I don't know what the f I'm doing with that stuff. If you can do the labour on your own more power to you.
Re: Procurement, Life & RFD
nasa25: say you won it in a raffle. That's what I do with like 86% of my purchases
infinityloop: Lying to your SO seems like an unhealthy long term strategy
nasa25: lmao
[OP]
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hagbard wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 9:45 am
So you didn't do the labour?
Thought you were suggesting I do the work myself? Changing out an ABS sensor if it were not integrated into the pump I could probably do. Bleeding brakes, then reprogramming, not likely. I'm hoping to take the $7k and run.
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hagbard wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 10:24 am
Thought you were suggesting I do the work myself? Changing out an ABS sensor if it were not integrated into the pump I could probably do. Bleeding brakes, then reprogramming, not likely. I'm hoping to take the $7k and run.
Yeah if you don't love the truck then better to just trade it in and move on. I had an emotional bond to my discovery so probably held onto it longer than I should have.
Re: Procurement, Life & RFD
nasa25: say you won it in a raffle. That's what I do with like 86% of my purchases
infinityloop: Lying to your SO seems like an unhealthy long term strategy
nasa25: lmao
[OP]
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Someone just pointed out that a battery from a wrecker is going to have been sitting around for a long time thus wouldn't be any good. If the deal falls through the battery will be replaced with a new one.
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hagbard wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 3:56 pm
Someone just pointed out that a battery from a wrecker is going to have been sitting around for a long time thus wouldn't be any good. If the deal falls through the battery will be replaced with a new one.
Any competent wrecker has the same battery tester that any auto part sellers use. The wrecker here is WHERE we go to get a battery tested no line up and they let us do the testing ourselves. They DEFINITELY won't sell you one that doesn't test as in good condition under load, the same as any battery you buy new. Here you get a 30 day exchange warranty and they only cost 35.00 for a normal battery that goes in front under the hood and 45.00 for a vented one that goes in the trunk or under a seat. Over the last 25 years I have bought a few and they have all OUTLASTED the cars I put them in....
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hagbard wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 10:24 am
Thought you were suggesting I do the work myself? Changing out an ABS sensor if it were not integrated into the pump I could probably do. Bleeding brakes, then reprogramming, not likely. I'm hoping to take the $7k and run.
ABS sensors aka wheel speed sensors are located at each wheel on the knuckles and on some cars are integrated as part of the wheel bearing assembly. Issues from malfunctioning sensors will result in incorrect wheels speed reading and as a result the ABS will erroneously detect wheel spin/lockup and try to correct the non existing issue sometimes creating dangerous situations when full braking force is required but not applied.
This is usually detected easily as the ABS will kick in when braking lightly while the car isn't skidding or individual tires haven't lost traction.
I should mention than in many cases as these sensors rely on the Hall effect, the magnets will attract metal dust from braking and might just need a cleaning to return to normal operation and give correct readings. In other cases corrosion/debris on the tone wheel on the axles is the culprit.

What are the symptoms of your problem with the ABS other than the check light?
[OP]
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dilligafeh wrote:
May 22nd, 2016 8:17 pm
ABS sensors aka wheel speed sensors are located at each wheel on the knuckles and on some cars are integrated as part of the wheel bearing assembly. Issues from malfunctioning sensors will result in incorrect wheels speed reading and as a result the ABS will erroneously detect wheel spin/lockup and try to correct the non existing issue sometimes creating dangerous situations when full braking force is required but not applied.
This is usually detected easily as the ABS will kick in when braking lightly while the car isn't skidding or individual tires haven't lost traction.
I should mention than in many cases as these sensors rely on the Hall effect, the magnets will attract metal dust from braking and might just need a cleaning to return to normal operation and give correct readings. In other cases corrosion/debris on the tone wheel on the axles is the culprit.

What are the symptoms of your problem with the ABS other than the check light?
The tachometer goes a bit crazy and the revs are high. I've had all four sensors go at different times over the nearly eight years I've had the car and the symptoms are generally the same. There's a bit of weirdness in the steering too but I just put new tires on two weeks ago so I might not be used to them. The mechanic seemed to think it was something in the ABS unit and not the sensors due to his computer diagnostic (though he hasn't told me what the code is). After four sensors going bad I have a pretty good idea of how to replace them but it doesn't cost that much to have a mechanic do it. The Module on the other hand is a different matter.
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Rpm isn't affected by the ABS. The reading comes from the transmission output shaft or other sensors depending on make not wheel speed sensors.

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