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[DECEMBER 2018 UPDATE] Ask me anything about home electrical requirements, electrical code, wiring, devices

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  • Dec 8th, 2019 6:45 pm
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Jr. Member
Dec 26, 2006
190 posts
100 upvotes
Hi,

We're planning to relocate our electric range to the opposite wall and need to extend the wiring. We have a bulkhead going around the kitchen ceiling, can we put the junction box in the bulkhead and extend the wiring to the new location? We would have an access panel in the bulkhead directly where the junction box would be located so it is accessible. Is this a good strategy? Thanks.
[OP]
Deal Expert
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Oct 26, 2003
31372 posts
2773 upvotes
Winnipeg
Daijoubu wrote:
Oct 24th, 2019 3:50 pm
Does the CEC 2015 calls for 20A or 15A for a dishwasher? GFCI? (AFCI??), dedicated circuit?
The Simplified PS Knight electrical code book seems to say dedicated 20A circuit but DW no longer have heating elements nowadays.

It appears that Bosch DW have plugs now, so not sure how this affects it vs hardwired
it was always 15A dedicated.
Deal Addict
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Jun 21, 2003
2872 posts
627 upvotes
Stoney Creek, ON
vtec_chump wrote:
Nov 5th, 2019 11:35 pm
Hi,

We're planning to relocate our electric range to the opposite wall and need to extend the wiring. We have a bulkhead going around the kitchen ceiling, can we put the junction box in the bulkhead and extend the wiring to the new location? We would have an access panel in the bulkhead directly where the junction box would be located so it is accessible. Is this a good strategy? Thanks.
Yes you can do this.
[OP]
Deal Expert
User avatar
Oct 26, 2003
31372 posts
2773 upvotes
Winnipeg
Strangely the code doesn't exempt dishwasher plug to be AFCI so you would need AFCI breaker protecting it. @Daijoubu
[OP]
Deal Expert
User avatar
Oct 26, 2003
31372 posts
2773 upvotes
Winnipeg
vtec_chump wrote:
Nov 5th, 2019 11:35 pm
Hi,

We're planning to relocate our electric range to the opposite wall and need to extend the wiring. We have a bulkhead going around the kitchen ceiling, can we put the junction box in the bulkhead and extend the wiring to the new location? We would have an access panel in the bulkhead directly where the junction box would be located so it is accessible. Is this a good strategy? Thanks.
proceed
Newbie
Nov 6, 2019
2 posts
Hi I am really stuck on a project. Can you please help? I am working on a four plex project which in need to install a 5 gang meter base (one for house panel ). Please let me know if this is your field. Thanks
Deal Addict
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Jan 29, 2005
1777 posts
299 upvotes
Mississauga
Question about aluminum wiring. If the switch has already a copper wire built into the switch do you still need to add a copper pigtail for code? Also to connect cu to al wire I have been using the purple marettes. I heard using the aluminum rated marettes with nolox paste is fine and to code. Is that true?
Jr. Member
Feb 11, 2009
187 posts
49 upvotes
House built in 2000.
My electrical panel is a Federal Pioneer with stablok, rated for 225 amps. However, my main breaker is only rated at 150amps.

How do I know if the service coming to my house is 100 amps or 150 amps or 200 amps? Ideally i'd like to change the main panel to another brand and have a 200 amp main breaker.

I will eventually want to add a EV charger so I just want to know what the service is coming in from the electrical pole.

Thanks,
Deal Addict
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Jun 21, 2003
2872 posts
627 upvotes
Stoney Creek, ON
steph3n wrote:
Nov 12th, 2019 3:53 pm
House built in 2000.
My electrical panel is a Federal Pioneer with stablok, rated for 225 amps. However, my main breaker is only rated at 150amps.

How do I know if the service coming to my house is 100 amps or 150 amps or 200 amps? Ideally i'd like to change the main panel to another brand and have a 200 amp main breaker.

I will eventually want to add a EV charger so I just want to know what the service is coming in from the electrical pole.

Thanks,
Great idea, FP are not great panels at all. It is not very likely that the service is anything higher than 150A. It would not make sense for them to size it all for 200A and then choke it down to 150A at the panel. I'm a little surprise by the 150A breaker, more typical services are 100A/125A/200A. I don't think I've personally encountered 150A before, but your main breaker should dictate what your service was rated for. If the your wires were rated for less than 150A they would not be protected by the breaker so I would suspect you are setup for 150A. If you call your hydro provider they should be able to tell you, as well you can request a service layout to find out if you are allowed to upgrade to 200A. If the transformer you are on is already fully loaded they may deny any upgrade.
Newbie
Nov 12, 2019
4 posts
Hi. I'm installing a new cooktop, oven and microwave. Microwave and oven will be in individual cabinets. I plan to install all three junction boxes in microwave cabinet.

Is it ok to have the cables from the cook top and oven go out the back of the cooktop/oven cabinet then into the microwave cabinet into separate junction boxes then from those junction boxes back out the microwave cabinet into wall?

Is it ok for the cables from the breaker panel to go through hole in wall or does the hole have to have a plastic plug to keep the cable secure. See attached pics

On one of the cables the white outer tube has been stripped off exposing bare ground wire. Is it ok to put another plastic tube on it and secure to existing tube with
Electrical wire?
Same question for the wire coming from the oven. Half of it is armored jacketed but the other half is not. Is it ok for the non jacketed wires to be exposed(everything will still be inside cabinet) until it goes into junction box? See pics
Images
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Newbie
Sep 15, 2019
10 posts
1 upvote
I want to move an outlet from the bottom of the wall to the mid to top so that I can mount a TV without wires showing. Anything specific I need to know?
Deal Addict
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Jun 21, 2003
2872 posts
627 upvotes
Stoney Creek, ON
Toucann wrote:
Nov 14th, 2019 8:34 am
I want to move an outlet from the bottom of the wall to the mid to top so that I can mount a TV without wires showing. Anything specific I need to know?
Don't move it, add another above where you need it. If you remove the lower outlet you may no longer be to code as you require receptacles at required intervals along your wall.

The easiest way is to add a new receptacle directly above (or within the same stud space). You need a rework box (example). You simply cut it in above the existing, drop a wire down to the old one to pick up power and you're good to go. You should confirm that adding this receptacle does not put you over the 12 device (light fixtures & receptacles) limit.
Newbie
Sep 15, 2019
10 posts
1 upvote
ChicoQuente wrote:
Nov 14th, 2019 9:03 am
Don't move it, add another above where you need it. If you remove the lower outlet you may no longer be to code as you require receptacles at required intervals along your wall.

The easiest way is to add a new receptacle directly above (or within the same stud space). You need a rework box (example). You simply cut it in above the existing, drop a wire down to the old one to pick up power and you're good to go. You should confirm that adding this receptacle does not put you over the 12 device (light fixtures & receptacles) limit.
Thanks for the reply.

What type of wire would I need? 12/2?

Any wiring diagrams online that I can reference when pulling out the existing wiring and putting in the new feed?
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Jul 23, 2004
2032 posts
506 upvotes
Montreal
Toucann wrote:
Nov 14th, 2019 10:57 am
Thanks for the reply.

What type of wire would I need? 12/2?

Any wiring diagrams online that I can reference when pulling out the existing wiring and putting in the new feed?
Don't want to be mean, but if you need a wiring diagram to add an outlet and feed it from an existing one, I think you should seek help from someone that's done electrical work before that can physically show you how it's done.

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