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Dryer Thermal Fuse help!

  • Last Updated:
  • Oct 5th, 2019 7:42 pm
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes

Dryer Thermal Fuse help!

My Dryer stopped making heat. There was quite a bit of lint in the exhaust I cleaned out. The first step is to try replacing the thermal fuse. I have most of the stuff taken off to access it, but the center of the thermal fuse has a flat screw in it, that has no socket and no groove to put a screw driver in it or to grip around it, its perfectly circular, smooth and flat. I think thats holding the fuse in and I have no idea how to remove it.

YGEW9200LQ1 is the model.

The replacement fuse looks like it has a screw on the end. Mine has it in the center... but I have no idea how to get it off because theres no way for me to unscrew it
25 replies
Deal Addict
Jan 5, 2003
3901 posts
3087 upvotes
Toronto
A photo would be very helpful, but I would first test the fuse with a multimeter to see if it's good. If it's bad, then I would try to pry off the "screw" with a flathead screwdriver or small prybar or just pry off the entire fuse. It's broken anyway. It's just sitting on sheet metal so you can't really damage anything except make a bigger hole in the sheet metal.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes
It's deep as hell in there. Almost impossible to get to. I used a mirror to see how the screw looked in the center. It's flat. Smooth. Circular.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes
I have a multimeter but it was my understanding it had to be taken off and isolated to test. If not, what should the multimeter read if it's connected?
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes
There's some sort of metal notch above the center of the fuse no idea what it is. Removed the screw above it in case it was a piece of metal going downwards holding the fuse in. Didn't help anything when removed
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes
While the fuse was connected to the dryer, I took off the prongs and put the multimeter to each post and it gave me a reading of 10.0 on 200 and the audible setting of the multimeter, it made noise also. So does that mean its good?
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes
I took out the box that holds the coil, cant see any visible damage to it but I guess that doesnt say much. As seen in the picture, above the white thermal fuse on the bottom are 2 different fuses? What type of reading am I suppose to get from the multimeter on these fuses? The reading I got was audible and gave me a reading of 10... the Thermal fuse itself also gave me audio and had a reading of 10...
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2003
4729 posts
631 upvotes
Calgary
Just bypass the "fuse" to see if the dryer works (clip the two red wires together) . Then replace if necessary. It sounds from your tests that it is OK and you have another issue.

And I hope your photo was taken before you cleaned it (hint hint)
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[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes
Cough wrote:
Oct 2nd, 2019 11:28 pm
Just bypass the "fuse" to see if the dryer works (clip the two red wires together) . Then replace if necessary. It sounds from your tests that it is OK and you have another issue.

And I hope your photo was taken before you cleaned it (hint hint)
Yeah I can't figure out what's wrong. I don't know how to test those two other fuses and the coil. Like the thermaster and I don't know what the other is. Still have no dryer.
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2003
4729 posts
631 upvotes
Calgary
You need to follow the circuit. The dryer 220V supply first normally goes to a centrifugal switch (that makes sure the drum is turning). then through the heating element. then through a high temperature thermostat which will cut off and on,. then through the thermal fuse/cutoff which must normally be replaced if it is open circuit. And that's assuming the heater relay on the control board is working fine.

If you cant follow the full circuit then you cant fix it.

I assume the blower and the drum rotate fine since you haven't explicitly mentioned them?

And none of the items n the circuit should have any appreciable resistance. They are all basically switches.
I apologize for offending sensitivities of alt right, alt left, or anyone in the middle, for humor or perspectives, for my maturity and occasional errors. I apologize for misunderstandings on gender, religion, politics, race or deals.
Deal Guru
User avatar
May 9, 2006
11382 posts
1960 upvotes
Can you take the whole part out? From the diagram it looks like the whole part holding the thermal fuse can be removed. I can't really make out much in the pic, but my guess is you are seeing the underside of the fuse. It probably clips on from the other side.

When I fixed my dryer it was pretty much completely taken apart and all I needed to do was replace the idler wheel.
[OP]
Deal Addict
Dec 9, 2007
2758 posts
275 upvotes
Cough wrote:
Oct 3rd, 2019 6:07 pm
You need to follow the circuit. The dryer 220V supply first normally goes to a centrifugal switch (that makes sure the drum is turning). then through the heating element. then through a high temperature thermostat which will cut off and on,. then through the thermal fuse/cutoff which must normally be replaced if it is open circuit. And that's assuming the heater relay on the control board is working fine.

If you cant follow the full circuit then you cant fix it.

I assume the blower and the drum rotate fine since you haven't explicitly mentioned them?

And none of the items n the circuit should have any appreciable resistance. They are all basically switches.
Yes, the dryer actually runs fine it just doesn't produce any heat at all. Its still taken apart. The thing in the picture that I thought was the thermal fuse doesnt actually appear to be the thermal fuse? Am I wrong about this? That is just the fuse to the heating coil, is that different than the thermal fuse? When I was reading the manual it seemed like that white fuse that I posted above was actually not the thermal fuse when I thought it originally was. I'm not sure though..

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