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Member
Apr 14, 2016
310 posts
52 upvotes
joey003 wrote: Update:

Just spoke with an electrician. For a short run like we're discussing (40-50 feet) #3 is good. If you start approaching 100' then it would be advisable to increase to #2.
Thanks.
so I called couple of stores and they all ask what kind of #3 do i need. cooper/alu/coated/with conductors. This is out of my area of expertise. What #3 do I need to have this rouhin done for future subpanel.
Deal Fanatic
Jul 4, 2004
7430 posts
4677 upvotes
Ottawa
KSYC wrote: According to this, you need a 200AMP panel for any EV charging in Ontario?

https://www.esasafe.com/contractors/res ... l-vehicles
The code doesn't say that you need 200A to install an EVSE, it's saying that as of 2018, new constructions in Ontario will need minimum 200A service (as well as conduit, outlet box, etc) to better support future EVSEs installations.
Deal Addict
Oct 30, 2006
2467 posts
1082 upvotes
GTA
yyzaf1 wrote: Thanks.
so I called couple of stores and they all ask what kind of #3 do i need. cooper/alu/coated/with conductors. This is out of my area of expertise. What #3 do I need to have this rouhin done for future subpanel.
Just go into hd or Lowe's they guy in the department will know when you explain what you are doing.
Sr. Member
Feb 14, 2018
626 posts
489 upvotes


Best overview of EV options I have seen.
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Aug 7, 2007
4795 posts
3847 upvotes
GTA
What’s the consensus on hardwired vs plug in EV Chargers?
Deal Addict
Oct 30, 2006
2467 posts
1082 upvotes
GTA
ADRiiAN` wrote: What’s the consensus on hardwired vs plug in EV Chargers?
I was going to add a outlet. But I had that wire already there and when buying my charge point it was $40 more for the wire version, so I Hough why spend that and $20 in supplies for the outlet. So u choose hardwired.

But it probably mostly you set up. If you going to use the cars included evse that an outlet is good if not then go hardwired it's a bit cheaper.
Sr. Member
Feb 14, 2018
626 posts
489 upvotes
ADRiiAN` wrote: What’s the consensus on hardwired vs plug in EV Chargers?
Plug if in the garage.

You can take it if you move.
Easy to upgrade.
If you have a warranty issue, you can just plug in the Nissan unit as a backup.
You will have a 240 VAC outlet in the garage, you can occasionally use for other things.

Hard wired if outside to reduce theft, and be more water tight.
Deal Addict
Apr 27, 2004
2225 posts
765 upvotes
Halton
ADRiiAN` wrote: What’s the consensus on hardwired vs plug in EV Chargers?
Thats like asking hotdogs or hamburgers?

Depends on your requirements, budget, use case, etc. Provide some details...
Member
Jan 19, 2010
340 posts
194 upvotes
Toronto
I'm having an ESA inspection today for my JuiceBox install. I'm concerned it may not pass due to load size. I've got an A/C, 3000W wall stove, and Newer LG Dryer as my other big loads in an ~3400 square foot home. Based on my (non-expert) calculations it puts me right on the 100A calculation of my current panel; 99.6A based on my math.

Now my question is, I have the JB set to 14A so it doesn't draw more than 3300 watts for my load calculations; I'm not sure if ESA cares or what code is.

Plan B) Anyone have recommendations (and ideas of cost) for a good electrician to upgrade to a 200A panel? I've confirmed my meter is already 200A ready, but the wire in the pole to my panel is 2 gauge aluminum. I'd also like to shift the panel right about 6" if the wires have enough slack, and there's an alarm panel that needs to be moved. Not sure if electricians usually take care of all that stuff in a move. Finally in Oakville if that changes price (our hydro does free connect/disconnect)

Anyways hoping ESA guy just passes it as is. The reality is in real use I'd rarely get over using 60-70A anyhow, such a waste.
Deal Addict
Apr 27, 2004
2225 posts
765 upvotes
Halton
fromano wrote: I'm having an ESA inspection today for my JuiceBox install. I'm concerned it may not pass due to load size. I've got an A/C, 3000W wall stove, and Newer LG Dryer as my other big loads in an ~3400 square foot home. Based on my (non-expert) calculations it puts me right on the 100A calculation of my current panel; 99.6A based on my math.

Now my question is, I have the JB set to 14A so it doesn't draw more than 3300 watts for my load calculations; I'm not sure if ESA cares or what code is.

Plan B) Anyone have recommendations (and ideas of cost) for a good electrician to upgrade to a 200A panel? I've confirmed my meter is already 200A ready, but the wire in the pole to my panel is 2 gauge aluminum. I'd also like to shift the panel right about 6" if the wires have enough slack, and there's an alarm panel that needs to be moved. Not sure if electricians usually take care of all that stuff in a move. Finally in Oakville if that changes price (our hydro does free connect/disconnect)

Anyways hoping ESA guy just passes it as is. The reality is in real use I'd rarely get over using 60-70A anyhow, such a waste.
Your electrician should have addressed these concerns during the install. Normally, a licensed electrician will strongly caution you against doing something if there's fear that it won't pass ESA.
Member
Jan 19, 2010
340 posts
194 upvotes
Toronto
neptune wrote: Your electrician should have addressed these concerns during the install. Normally, a licensed electrician will strongly caution you against doing something if there's fear that it won't pass ESA.
I agree whole heartily. When the electrician came to quote, he called ESA to ask if it was possible to leave two outlets for two juiceboxes; answer was no and that it was against code. At the time the ESA person on the phone (he had it on speaker) mentioned that the service may need to be upgrade to 125A breaker and for him to do the calculations. I assumed this cost was put into the final quote, as it wasn't very detailed, and at the time I didn't know what to look for anyhow.

I asked when appeared to be packing up if he was going to upgrade the main breaker, and he said he didn't include that in the cost. I was pissed but didn't want to escalate the situation then and there. Luckily I told him beforehand that I would not pay in full until Permit was issued. I paid $ 600 of the quote, which from my perspective is a ripoff for a 10 meter armored 6/3 run, a NEMA 14/50 outlet and two replacement breakers in the panel.
Deal Addict
Apr 27, 2004
2225 posts
765 upvotes
Halton
fromano wrote: I agree whole heartily. When the electrician came to quote, he called ESA to ask if it was possible to leave two outlets for two juiceboxes; answer was no and that it was against code. At the time the ESA person on the phone (he had it on speaker) mentioned that the service may need to be upgrade to 125A breaker and for him to do the calculations. I assumed this cost was put into the final quote, as it wasn't very detailed, and at the time I didn't know what to look for anyhow.

I asked when appeared to be packing up if he was going to upgrade the main breaker, and he said he didn't include that in the cost. I was pissed but didn't want to escalate the situation then and there. Luckily I told him beforehand that I would not pay in full until Permit was issued. I paid $ 600 of the quote, which from my perspective is a ripoff for a 10 meter armored 6/3 run, a NEMA 14/50 outlet and two replacement breakers in the panel.
The price sounds about right to be honest. I paid close to $800 for a JB install with a slightly longer run
Member
Jan 19, 2010
340 posts
194 upvotes
Toronto
neptune wrote: The price sounds about right to be honest. I paid close to $800 for a JB install with a slightly longer run
The full price is almost 1200 with tax. I didn't pay the rest yet.
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User avatar
Aug 7, 2007
4795 posts
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GTA
EvMart wrote: Plug if in the garage.

You can take it if you move.
Easy to upgrade.
If you have a warranty issue, you can just plug in the Nissan unit as a backup.
You will have a 240 VAC outlet in the garage, you can occasionally use for other things.

Hard wired if outside to reduce theft, and be more water tight.
Thanks. It seems like plug-in allows for more versatility.
Deal Addict
User avatar
Nov 28, 2007
1764 posts
1015 upvotes
I just got a quote of $1200 for new panel 100 going to 200, and $400 more for a sub panel and install of 2 EV outlets, main run to sub panel is 15 feet, and secondary run of 30ft to one of the outlets.

I thought the price seems pretty decent?
Cool Beans
Deal Expert
User avatar
Oct 26, 2003
39339 posts
6342 upvotes
Winnipeg
QTheNukes wrote: I just got a quote of $1200 for new panel 100 going to 200, and $400 more for a sub panel and install of 2 EV outlets, main run to sub panel is 15 feet, and secondary run of 30ft to one of the outlets.

I thought the price seems pretty decent?
It is
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Apr 21, 2004
58648 posts
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EvMart wrote:

Best overview of EV options I have seen.
Unless it considers availability and ease of ordering, there's no point including all of them. :)
Deal Addict
Apr 27, 2004
2225 posts
765 upvotes
Halton
QTheNukes wrote: I just got a quote of $1200 for new panel 100 going to 200, and $400 more for a sub panel and install of 2 EV outlets, main run to sub panel is 15 feet, and secondary run of 30ft to one of the outlets.

I thought the price seems pretty decent?
1200 is a great price for upgrading too 200amp service! I was quoted more than double that. I would've jumped on this price if it was me :)
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User avatar
Nov 28, 2007
1764 posts
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neptune wrote: 1200 is a great price for upgrading too 200amp service! I was quoted more than double that. I would've jumped on this price if it was me :)
Going with it, I will send an update when i get the final bill......hoping no surprises, and hoping the inspector doesn't care that I wired my whole basement and current EV myself......
Cool Beans
Sr. Member
Feb 14, 2018
626 posts
489 upvotes
QTheNukes wrote: Going with it, I will send an update when i get the final bill......hoping no surprises, and hoping the inspector doesn't care that I wired my whole basement and current EV myself......
I wired part of my basement as well, thought I got an electrician to do the EV run, and handle the inspection, for that, so I could get the rebate. There were no issues, inspector barely looked in the garage, never mind the basement.
I did get a permit and inspection for some of the basement wiring I did, just to make sure there were no insurance coverage issues. This went smooth as well. I would encourage anybody doing their own new wring to get a permit, and inspection. It is no big deal, if you know the basics.

In your case a new panel in the basement will have them looking there. Suggest you have the electrician eyeball your work before the inspection.

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