Automotive

Help: Clutch

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  • Oct 6th, 2005 1:43 pm
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Sr. Member
Oct 15, 2003
739 posts

Help: Clutch

I drive a manual transmission car. How do you know if the clutch needs to be changed?
16 replies
Deal Addict
Jan 22, 2004
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findingnemoscar wrote:I drive a manual transmission car. How do you know if the clutch needs to be changed?
If it starts slipping on 5th gear during heavy accelaration its time to replace.
Sr. Member
Oct 15, 2003
739 posts
Okay, I don't know how to explain this but I'll try:

Lately, it seems like my clutch has shifted positions -- I use to have to apply a little more pressure to the clutch but now, it's like the starting position has changed that even a little pressure from my foot forces the clutch all the way down.

I wish I could it explain it better.

But definitely no slipping of gears.
Deal Guru
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Dec 17, 2001
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St-Fabien de Panet, …
Is it cable or hydraulic actuated? Cable might be worn and need to be changed.
Pedal is lower than normal right?
Member
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Jan 12, 2004
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Toronto
DragonZealot wrote:If it starts slipping on 5th gear during heavy accelaration its time to replace.
usually u dont accelerate in 5th gear bro..its usually not the gear ppl accelerate in . If a 5spd manual..usually down to 4th,...3rd if you really need to get out fast...

u notice the clutch is getting worn when its takes longer for it to engage...IE: u have to depress the clutch more and it engages late and it disengages later on when u press

you will notice..that your normal/usual position on the clutch pedal is further in...that means ur clutchs friction pads are wearing or worn..

also ..dont use your tranny to slow down. I have seen a lot of dumb kids who downshift to slow down their car...dumb very dumb..
better to use your brakes..as brake pads are cheaper to replace than your clutch

my $0.02
Sr. Member
Jan 17, 2005
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djpharoah wrote: also ..dont use your tranny to slow down. I have seen a lot of dumb kids who downshift to slow down their car...dumb very dumb..
better to use your brakes..as brake pads are cheaper to replace than your clutch

my $0.02
Engine break could be useful in slipery condition.
Also when the engine speed is matched properly during the downshift, it does not exccessively wear down your clutch/tranny.
I have been doing this for the past 130 000km and the original clutch is still in a very good condition.
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Sep 15, 2004
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findingnemoscar wrote:Okay, I don't know how to explain this but I'll try:

Lately, it seems like my clutch has shifted positions -- I use to have to apply a little more pressure to the clutch but now, it's like the starting position has changed that even a little pressure from my foot forces the clutch all the way down.

I wish I could it explain it better.

But definitely no slipping of gears.
The clutch is composed of a whole wack of fingers (the spring) and the clutch plate (like brake material) which presses on the flywheel and bearings. These are usually designed to last the life of the vehicle, but are common change outs after 200-300 miles or more frequently if the driver uses the clutch as a throttle adjustment. The clutch engaging mechanism can be altered manually, and is usually set-up so that total disengagement is 1" of pedal before the floor. This distance should be maintained on service (50K) and should result in a clutch that lasts for the duration. Some set-ups differ slightly depending on the users preferences and stroke of the pedal.

Using a clutch to disengage the drive requires the user to fully depress the pedal to the floor... engaging the drive is a gradual process, and is the point in which wear and heat is developed. Minimize this process and you will have no problems...

Sounds like you have used the clutch in place of the throttle, causing undo stress on the hardware. The spring is no longer as tight (heat has weaked it) and it has developed a softer set, have it adjusted.. and use it as an engagement/disengagment device and not a gas pedal.
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Nov 16, 2003
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Engine breaking is alright if you know how to do it properly, matching RPM etc... but I stil lwoudlnt' recommend it, maybe from 4th to 3rd, but i rarely go 3 to 2.. My previous car had 288k km on it, still original trainy and clutch.
Deal Addict
Mar 10, 2005
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u don't have to wait till the 5th gear. It can slip on any gear.

U'll know without anyone telling u. if you drive your standard, u'll notice a difference almost immediately. First u'll say, "hey wtf? how come it took an extra half second to engage into the next gear" it'll happen once, then twice then it'll take a bit longer to engage.
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Jan 22, 2004
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djpharoah wrote:usually u dont accelerate in 5th gear bro..its usually not the gear ppl accelerate in . If a 5spd manual..usually down to 4th,...3rd if you really need to get out fast...

I accelerate in 5th gear. I shift to 5th at 70km/hr and then accelerate from there onwards. I am talking about acceleration, not getting out fast.
djpharoah wrote:u notice the clutch is getting worn when its takes longer for it to engage...IE: u have to depress the clutch more and it engages late and it disengages later on when u press
So how much longer before you can tell it is worn down to a point for replacement?

Bro this would happen on cable operated clutch only. Hydraulic clutches are self adjusting.

Wear in the clutch friction material will cause change in engagement position so do stretch in the cable. You can not tell how much shift in engagement position would indicate if it is due for replacement.
djpharoah wrote:
also ..dont use your tranny to slow down.
Agree except when going a long downgrade in which you use the tranny to maintain speed to avoid excessive use of brakes.
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Jan 22, 2004
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me! wrote:u don't have to wait till the 5th gear. It can slip on any gear.
It will slip on 5th first, if you ignore eventually it will slip on all gear and metal to metal --> flywheel replacement time.
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Jan 22, 2004
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findingnemoscar wrote:Okay, I don't know how to explain this but I'll try:

Lately, it seems like my clutch has shifted positions -- I use to have to apply a little more pressure to the clutch but now, it's like the starting position has changed that even a little pressure from my foot forces the clutch all the way down.

I wish I could it explain it better.

But definitely no slipping of gears.
You mean it has more travel before it hits the spring loaded point? Check fluid level if hydraulic. Check padel adjustment if cable.
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Dec 4, 2004
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The last (and only) time I've needed a clutch replaced, it basically felt like this:

When I'd let off the clutch to engage, and stepped on the gas, the engine would rev for a split second before the car would take off. It feels like you are riding the clutch even though your foot is completely off it.
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Dec 17, 2001
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St-Fabien de Panet, …
I replaced a clutch and pressure plate once in a Datsun 310, without pulling the engine or tranny. I told a mechanic and he said I was crazy. The tranny had a half moon shape inspection cover that allowed access. Removed half the bolts, turned the flywheel and got the rest. Only car I've seen that on.
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Mar 31, 2003
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I remember it as feeling like I was suddenly driving an automatic, shift up in gear and the engine would get ahead a little until the car speed 'caught up'. It is definitely not the normal wheel-to-engine lock you are used to, and you'll notice it.
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Sep 15, 2004
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bug wrote:I replaced a clutch and pressure plate once in a Datsun 310, without pulling the engine or tranny. I told a mechanic and he said I was crazy. The tranny had a half moon shape inspection cover that allowed access. Removed half the bolts, turned the flywheel and got the rest. Only car I've seen that on.
I'd agree with that mechanic... I understand how you could unbolt the plate as you've explained... but how did you get the pressure plate and clutch disk past the throwout? Did the unit come back out the inspection cover, I know the 510's didn't have that.
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Jul 10, 2005
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approximately how much does it cost to replace a clutch, including parts/labour for a 2000 civic?

anybody know?

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