Green / Eco-Friendly

How many KWh do you use in a day?

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  • Aug 6th, 2018 12:07 pm
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Feb 8, 2014
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coolspot wrote:
Jul 24th, 2018 5:40 pm
Home office (bedroom) is on top of the garage, so during the afternoon room temperature hits 30+ degrees, I had to put a dedicated air conditioner in the office to keep it cool. Unfortunately it happens to be one of the further rooms from the central AC, so no amount of rebalancing will provide adequate airflow to keep the room cool.

As for the computers, I don't think that's the primary energy draw. I do have several severs in the basement, plus a work laptop and personal desktop, and also a few other laptops for the rest of the family. Even being "generous" at 400W, that only accounts for 10 KwH hours which is 10% of my daily consumption... something else must be using the 90 KwH which I think is the central AC.
You've got major problems if your using this much AC. How old is your house and where are you located?
Last edited by Quentin5 on Jul 25th, 2018 5:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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theguyz wrote:
Jul 24th, 2018 10:46 am
As I said those where my shockers, have alot of energy wasters I knew or had a good idea about.

I honestly didn't think fans drew that much wattage....but sneaks up just like lighting very quickly.


Using TOU using 4-5 kWh when taking showers on hour of and next, same as when doing dishes, and I have to manually subtract normal electricity usage and come around 5.5 kWh for the water tank, unfortunitly I would need a clamp on meter to measure its true usage and standby and holding consumption.
Electrically heating water gets very expensive very quickly

I measured fridge and AVG out a 100 watts an hour so 2.4 kWh and out freezer AVG's out at 50 watts an hour( 1.2kWh ), dryer was usually used on weekends for 4-5 loads at easily 20-25 kwh( can see TOU go way up ), but with the temps this year we are hanging cloths on clothsline to dry and only using tumble air dry setting for colder days , but as well need a true clamp on meter to measure its wattage correctly

Cooking on stove is also a heavy hitter........
Thats a lot for your fridge, how old is it? Test it for a week straight, if its under 15 years old i suspect you will get less then 2.4kWh/day.
Your freezer (chest?) is still rather high, test is for a week as well.
Clothes dryers typically use about 5kW a load, plus or minus 20%. The technology is about the same for all of them unless you have a ventless heat pump model (very rare).
The stove can be a heavy hitter.
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Feb 9, 2006
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coolspot wrote:
Jul 24th, 2018 5:40 pm
Home office (bedroom) is on top of the garage, so during the afternoon room temperature hits 30+ degrees, I had to put a dedicated air conditioner in the office to keep it cool. Unfortunately it happens to be one of the further rooms from the central AC, so no amount of rebalancing will provide adequate airflow to keep the room cool.

As for the computers, I don't think that's the primary energy draw. I do have several severs in the basement, plus a work laptop and personal desktop, and also a few other laptops for the rest of the family. Even being "generous" at 400W, that only accounts for 10 KwH hours which is 10% of my daily consumption... something else must be using the 90 KwH which I think is the central AC.
Your username makes so much more sense now.
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Quentin5 wrote:
Jul 25th, 2018 12:59 am
Electrically heating water gets very expensive very quickly



Thats a lot for your fridge, how old is it? Test it for a week straight, if its under 15 years old i suspect you will get less then 2.4kWh/day.
Your freezer (chest?) is still rather high, test is for a week as well.
Clothes dryers typically use about 5kW a load, plus or minus 20%. The technology is about the same for all of them unless you have a ventless heat pump model (very rare).
The stove can be a heavy hitter.
Fridge is 8 years old bigger one 19 C FT. ( have set at 3 degrees fridge and -19 freezer ), will try and run a weeks run on it, as I have almost had time to run through all devices and appliances and energy monitor will be free.

Freezer is stand up one, which are know to not be energy effecient, soon as you open and close door, even for a second it runs at 125 watts, but settles down to standby and 50 watts. And only 7 years old.

I assumed these where decent wattage usage, but may investigate farther.

Yes dryers are pigs and technology has not changed much( was told this when bought that 15 year old and newer not much different in energy effeciency ), only decent feature on ours which is about 4 years old is heat sensor, detects when cloths are dry, sometimes a run will be an hour, other times if smaller load 20-30 minutes. We did start using air tumble dry feature for smaller loads, but forgot the times to check the TOU website....may look into further this weekend.


With some research I have found that the TP-Link HS110 is up to 4% in accurate readings. So anything I have gotten at 100 watts could actually be 104 or 96 watts.
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theguyz wrote:
Jul 25th, 2018 10:30 am
Fridge is 8 years old bigger one 19 C FT. ( have set at 3 degrees fridge and -19 freezer ), will try and run a weeks run on it, as I have almost had time to run through all devices and appliances and energy monitor will be free.

Freezer is stand up one, which are know to not be energy effecient, soon as you open and close door, even for a second it runs at 125 watts, but settles down to standby and 50 watts. And only 7 years old.
Yeah, recheck both the Fridge and Freezer. They should be much lower in the. My guess is 0.6-1.4 kWh range daily.

A little off topic, a while back I discovered my 7yr old 19cuft Fridge (frost free 2011 energy star) consumes almost double the electricity than my 8 yrs old upright 13cuft freezer(was not energy star rated). Yeah the fridge is opened more often but under load still consumed more electricity. In my research to find out why, I discovered even energy star frost free units consume more electricity than the non-frost free equivalent.
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coolspot wrote:
Jul 24th, 2018 5:40 pm
Home office (bedroom) is on top of the garage, so during the afternoon room temperature hits 30+ degrees, I had to put a dedicated air conditioner in the office to keep it cool. Unfortunately it happens to be one of the further rooms from the central AC, so no amount of re-balancing will provide adequate airflow to keep the room cool.

As for the computers, I don't think that's the primary energy draw.
I wasn't saying the PC is a heavy lifter, but I "AM" saying that every watt that your PC puts out is another watt that you have to cool down. While you might think re-balancing can't COMPLETELY fix it (you might be right), reducing your PCs heat dissipation from (say) 400w to 120w would mean that room is that much easier to cool (I was going to move my actual PC into the basement ... but then I found out range limitations on DisplayPort, and that dashed those plans). You might also consider ripping down some drywall in that garage and insulating the HVAC piping properly (takes time, but the cost is super low). So, while you might still need an A/C unit in there to bring it to an acceptable level, you will potentially need to run it considerably less, or even ONLY on extremely hot days. This same mentality comes with sealing your home; less random air coming in, less energy you need changing that [for this season] hot-humid air into dry cool air. Even something as simple as blackout blinds makes an enormous impact (this is a guideline, but 1sq.m of sunlight on the ground approximately outputs 1kw of heat into a room).

Again, this is obviously not your primary source of excess power consumption, but you sometimes need to look at an "entire system" (in this case: a room, with a human, a computer, printer, maybe stereo, maybe a TV, lights, portable A/C unit, and a [for this season] cold air register that is apparently continuously kicking out cool air) to outright reduce the energy going in to the room, so you can reduce the energy required to then cool the room. And, until you figure out that your driveway heater is on, or you have 4x 100w incandescent bulbs on in your cellar (I did this; whoops), or your neighbour is charging their car off a plug in your pool-room, etc ... it is a way to potentially largely impact the comfortability of a room you're in a lot.
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theguyz wrote:
Jul 25th, 2018 10:30 am
Yes dryers are pigs and technology has not changed much...
Look up ventless "heat pump" driers. These are different than plain condensing driers from past. The heat pump recycles the produced heat, instead of dumping it outdoors. The driers use 2-3 times less electricity, but might not be for everyone depending on where it's installed, etc. We've had a heat pump drier for about a year now and it works very well. Unfortunately I haven't monitored it to post some concrete numbers.
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Fraser Valley, BC
Running about 10KWh per day in summer, rising to 22KWh on days with 2 or 3 laundry loads. 2000sf 2 story house 25 years old, 1 TV on all day, 2 5000BTU window air conditioners on hot days. Gas heat main floor, electric heat upstairs. Latest bill works out to $35/month summer and we are having daily peak temperatures 27 to 34C.

In January I used about 18KWh per day. I keep unoccupied bedrooms at 10C which saves me a lot and most people would not do that, I actually sleep in winter with room as low as 10C (sounds crazy but its easy if you preheat bed with a hair dryer).

In all seasons I use only about 40% of electricity of comparable nearby houses, which surprises me considering my house is partially electric heat, but it's probably because most people heat their houses warmer than mine and have more people in the house with more lights on, more TVs, more laundry etc.
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I like the new "Compare my usage" graph from Alectra (Mississauga)
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Sep 14, 2010
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East/West newer house in TO, 3 stories (basement is ground floor), no shade at all.

Average 500-600kWh / month (16-20kWh / day) during the winter months, and usually 1,000kWh / month (33kWh / day) in the summer.

This summer has been insanely hot, and I upgraded to a 3T AC unit so I've been hitting 1,500kWh / month (50kWh / day). I have all LED lights in the house, but I am not careful about usage. I run 2 home server PCs 24/7, plus PoE with various cameras, an RPi system and some home automation stuff + a security system.

Temperature in the house is set to 22c in the summer, 23c in the winter, although it's tough to keep that regulated in the 3rd floor rooms. Because of the disparity of the 3 floors I run the furnace fan 24/7 to keep it regulated and set CPH (cycles per hour) to 3 for furnace / AC.
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theguyz wrote:
Jul 23rd, 2018 11:43 am
So after trying to save $ on hydro bills( blindsided just turning off devices and not doing anything else ) , I've decided to watch our energy consumption.

Our house is split shift and 2 people, so there is someone up in house for 20 hours of the day during weekdays.

My method is using hydroone's TOU webpage, and using a TP-Link HS110 plug in energy monitor smart plug ( Paid $27 prime day, versus $20-30 for a kill-a-watt ) and can still uses smart plug to auto on/off devices for energy usage


Currently without energy savings
In past month:
- AVG Weekday Daily is 22.5 kWh
- AVG Weekend Daily is 28.1 kWh

Using the TP-Link HS110, and some manual paperwork ( as otherwaise have to reset to factory settings to reset energy consumption - basic math each time I plugged in another device).


My goal is to take it to 16 kWh on weekdays, and 20 kWh on weekends, using smart plugs to power off non-essential devices/appliances so the next 2 weeks maybe tweaks to schedules and see how works out in a month
Update for past 2 weeks:

* Past 2 Weekdays August, 6
* AVG 17.543 kWh

* Past Month Weekends August 6
* AVG 23.0875 kWh

So we have managed to save 5 kWh on weekdays so far, still want to take it down another 1.5 kWh

And have saved almost 5kWh on weekends, taking it down another 3 kWh maybe difficult....

So in essence, we have dropped 5 kWh a day on usage, which over 30 days = 150 kWh reduced and over year 1825 kWh

As asked, our fridge still AVG's out at 96-98 watts an hour, and washer on heavy cycles runs 158 and on normal runs 122 watts.

As for fans, I have just setup a stringify flow that when temp above 24 turn on fans and when temp drops below 22 turn off fans, I'll have to see how effective this is versus setting up a timed scheduled on/off.

Biggest opstical is forgetting to turn off lights in unused area's......this could easily save 40-80 watts hourly easily!!

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